Transporting Ficus

I am moving to Tulsa, OK from New Jersey during the first 2 weeks of March, 2003. I have two Ficus trees that I want to take with me, they are approximately 6 years old and have always done well. What is the best way to protect them on their 2+ day journey west? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Fig Tree - Ficus benjamina

Your plants should be carefully wrapped to protect them from extreme temperatures, and the possibility of physical damages. I do not know what size your trees are, but if they are not too large, they can be wrapped with large paper sleve fan-shaped wrappers which pull up over the pot and plant. You may be able to purchase a couple of these wrappers from a local florist, greenhouse or nursery in your area. The potting media should be moist before wrapping the trees to prevent them from drying out during the journey.

If these wrappers can not be found, they can be wrapped with any type of roll paper or poly plastic. These wrappers are necessary to protect the plants from cold temperatures and wind while they are being taken from the home to the vehicle and vice ver-sa. The plants should be taken indoors in the evening (left wrapped up) whenever you have to stay over-night, in case of extreme temperature changes out of doors. If temperatures are cold outside, the trees must be moved in a heated vehicle. The trees should not be left to sit outside for any length of time, as both cold temperatures or very hot temperatures (from the sun shining on the wrappers) can damage them. In other words, take them straight out to the vehicle and then straight into the building when arriving at your destinations.

If the trees are fairly wide, the branches can be carefully bent upwards, starting at the bottom of the tree and working upwards, and loosely tied together in the up-right position with several rounds of a soft material such as cloth that is cut in strips. (A soft material prevents the bark from being damaged). The tree is then easier to wrap and will not take up so much space. Depending on what type of vehicle you have for transporting the trees, another option is to place the trees in large boxes, if it is possible to find such boxes. If the trees are properly wrapped, it will not harm them if they are laid down (as long as nothing heavy is placed on top of them). If you think they may have to be laid down during the trip, it is advisable to stuff some cloth at the top of the pots and tie it in place, so that the soil will not spill out of the containers.

That is basically all there is to it. Handle the plants carefully and carry them by holding on to the pots, not the top part, as the roots may become dislodged or the branches damaged. I hope you and your trees have a pleasant journey to their new home.

When you arrive at your new home, the wrappers should be taken off of the trees immediately. Plants can not survive for very long periods of time without light. The next important step is to try and give them (as close as possible) the same growing conditions they had before their journey. These include light, temperature, and humidity. Don't be to despaired if the trees drop a few leaves. Moving a plant to a new location usually causes some stress on the plant, and it may take some time for it to re-adjust to its new surroundings.

Bird's Nest Fern

Common Name: Bird's Nest Fern, Spleenwort, Shuttlecock

Botanical Name: Asplenium nidus

Plant Family: Aspleniaceae|

The Bird's Nest Fern, Asplenium nidus, is a tropical and sub-tropical plant which is native to the rain forests of Asia, Africa, India, Polynesia and Australia. In the wild, these largest of epiphytes live up in the crowns of trees. Their means of nourishment is from nutrients found in dust particles and rain which is collected in the plants deep, funnel-shaped rosette of leaves. The genus name Asplenium (Spleenwort) is derived from the Greek words 'a' meaning 'not', and 'splen', meaning 'spleen' and refers to the medicinal properties the plant is supposed to have. The specific epithet or species name 'nidus' means 'a nest', hence the common name Bird's Nest Fern. The Bird's Nest Fern belongs to the 'Aspleniaceae' family under the fern order 'Polypodiales'.

The leathery, tongue-like, glossy, pale green, wavy-edged fronds of this fern are borne in a tight rosette at the rhizome, forming a bowl-shaped clump with a fibrous center, which to many resembles a bird's nest, or at least a seemingly sheltered spot for a bird's nest. Each frond is entire or undivided and has a prominent, polished rib running down the center of the frond. The new fronds uncurl from the hairy, dark scaled crown of the rosette in typical fern manner. They are very soft and brittle when young and must not be handled. As the new fronds grow in, the older ones gradually die. Mature fronds can grow to 3 feet in length and 8 inches in width, and under ideal conditions, a plant can reach 4 to 6 feet in height, but, under normal home conditions the plant rarely exceeds 15 inches in height. The stems of each frond are stumpy and erect. Another commonly grown variety is Asplenium crispafolium, which has deeply ruffled fronds.

LIGHT

This fern must be grown in low to moderate, indirect light, such as that of a north window or lightly curtained east or west windows. The fern will grow successfully under 150 foot candles of artificial light. In direct sun, the fronds will scorch, and in deep shade, the plant will perish. Very pale colored fronds can be the direct result of too much sun or light.

TEMPERATURE

Provide warm temperatures for the fern, 60°F at night, and 70-80°F during the day. Fronds that turn yellow beginning at the base of the plant, or those that develop brown spots, are in most cases the result of the air being too warm. Even though this fern requires warm temperatures, it should in no way be located in front of hot air vents; nor should it be subjected to either hot or cold drafts.

WATERING

The potting media must be kept evenly moist at all times and never allowed to dry out. By providing the plant with a well-drained media, over-watering will not become a problem. A soggy soil will result in root and crown rot problems. Never allow the pot to sit in the excess drainage water. Water the plant from the top of the pot using tepid water and thoroughly soak the media (avoid getting the inner crown wet), and then do not water again until the surface of the media approaches dryness. In winter when the plant is dormant (resting period), or temperatures are on the cooler side, the plant should be watered more sparingly, but never allowed to dry out.

FERTILIZING THE PLANT

Providing the potting media has been prepared properly prior to planting the fern, the plant will only need to be fertilized twice during the growing season, once in early spring when growth resumes and once again in the summer. A good fertilizer for this fern is an organic fish emulsion fertilizer which has been diluted to one half the strength recommended by the manufacturer as labeled on the container. Over-fertilizing will result in frond tip and frond damage, as well as root damage of the plant. Ferns that have very pale colored fronds and very weak growth indicate a need for feeding.

HUMIDITY

If humid air can not be provided for this fern, problems will occur, it can not tolerate dry air. Humidity levels of 60% or higher should be maintained. Small Bird's Nest Fern plants are often grown in a terrarium where they thrive in the warm, humid environment. Increase levels of humidity around the plant by setting the pot on a pebble tray, filling pots with moist peat moss, setting out pans of water, grouping plants together, misting the plant, running small water fountains or installing a humidifier. If the fronds are turning yellow, developing brown tips, or there is no new growth, the most likely cause is dry air. Fronds that are dying back are usually the direct result of both dry air and dry media.

REPOTTING

Repot the fern, only if necessary, in a one size larger pot in spring. They do not require a very large pot because of their small root systems. A good soil mix consists of equal parts of packaged potting media, peat moss or leaf mold, and perlite or builder's sand. To each gallon of the above mix, 2 tablespoons of bonemeal should be added and thoroughly mixed in. Bonemeal is an excellent source of natural phosphorous which is needed by the plant for good root development ,as well as aiding in maintaining a neutral soil pH required by the plant.

PESTS

Insect pests most likely to attack Asplenium nidus are scale, aphids and mealybug. Careful monitoring of the plants leaves, especially on the under-sides, and regular dusting and washing of the leaves will keep these insects under control without having to resort to the use of pesticides. Washing them off, touching them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, or rubbing them off with a thumb-nail are means of control. Care must be taken when cleaning the leaves so as not to break off the brittle new fronds. Spore cases on the undersides of mature leaves should not be confused with scale insects. Keep the plant healthy and neat by cutting off dead fronds at any time of the year, and keep the base of the plant free from debris. Diseases to watch for include: anthracnose, blights, leaf blisters, leafspots and rusts.

Although the frond tips of the Bird's Nest Fern sometimes have a bit of a natural curl, severe curling of the fronds may be the result of cold drafts, over-watering, or too little heat. The Bird's Nest Fern thrives in warmth and humidity, like the typical conditions of those found in a tropical greenhouse.

Fishtail Palm

I am wondering if you can help me identify a plant I bought. I bought it from Costco and it is somewhat like a plam, but it is not nearly as bushy and the leaves are different. As they open up they look more and more like they have been torn. The leaf, in total, is maybe 4-5 inches in diameter at the widest point, about 3/4 out the leaf. It is as if it has been cut into 3 sections, which seem to sit next to each other, yet they are cut, and the end of each section is a different length and appears to have been torn across the top of each section. The plant I have is a good six feet tall and has around 6 thicker main stems with lots more coming up. It is more of a taller nature than hanging out to the side. I am trying to find out it's name and light and watering requirements and would appreciate any help you could give me. Thanks.

Fishtail Palm - Caryota mitis

Is your plant a Fishtail Palm (Caryota mitis - or a different species of Caryota)? If it is, it requires bright, indirect light such as a curtain-filtered south window, or (at least 400 foot candles of artificial light).

The soil must be kept thoroughly moist, but never soggy wet or the stems could rot. Never let the pot sit in the drainage water. Water the plant as soon as the surface of the soil approaches dryness.

Give the plant nightime temperatures of 65 to 70 °F and daytime temperatures between 75 to 85°F.

Fertilize the plant with a balanced plant food (20-20-20 - for example) once a month durinjg the growing season (spring to fall). Never fertilize a plant while it is in the dormant period.

Repot the plant in spring if necessary (they prefer to be on the crowded side) in a one size larger pot. A good soil mix consists of 1 part loam, 1 part peat moss or leaf mold, and one part perlite. Add 2 tablespoons of bone meal to 1 gallon of the above mix for good root development. Most commercially packaged potting soils will also be fine.

Young plants can be propagated at any time of the year from the young suckers which develop at the base of the plant. Seeds can also be purchased to propagate new plants.

Keeping the air moist where the plant is located will help prevent spider mite infestations.

Norfolk Island Pine is Too Tall

I have a Norfolk Pine house plant which has grown in a full grown tree, the tip is now touching the ceiling. What can I do? Can I propogate this by cutting the stem and placing in water to root or must it be air layered? Any advice from you in this matter would be appreciated. Thanks ...

Norfolk Island Pine

If your plant is a very nice specimen, the best thing you can do for it is to find it a new home. Perhaps a shopping mall, local business, or conservatory in your area that could handle a plant this size, and would willingly take care of it.

I am suggesting this because this is not an easy plant to propagate, and once the stem- tip is removed, the area just below the cut on the parent plant will send up multiple branches or leaders which will ruin the shape of the tree. If the stem-tip cutting fails to root, you will be no further ahead. Successful cuttings require a lot of rooting hormone (good quality stuff) and lots of luck. In fact, most producers today propagate new plants from seed. Side branch tips or shoots can not be used to make cuttings, as they will continue to grow sideways, never upwards.

If, however, you can not find a new home for the plant, it may be worth trying to root the tip. The cutting is made by slicing the stem off just below the first tier of branches (usually 5 or 7 branches in a tier). The prepared cutting should have the top leader, the one tier of branches and a bit of stem under them. Next, snip off two of the branches from the cutting. Dip the bottom of the cutting and the two wounded surfaces (where you cut off the two branches) in a good quality rooting hormone - be sure they are well coated with the hormone. They root best with room temperatures of 60 degrees F. Provide indirect light (a north or east window) until they have rooted. The cutting should be inserted in moist sand or any commercially packaged rooting medium made for the purpose of rooting cuttings. The tip cutting, pot and all should be placed into a large clear plastic bag with a few pin holes poked into the bag in order to keep the cutting and atmoshpere around the cutting moist. The rooting media must never be allowed to dry out, or remain too soggy.

As for rooting the cutting in water, this practice is not recommended for any type of plant, as those so called 'water roots' will just die once they are put into potting media in any case. The plant then has to concentrate on putting out brand new soil roots, if it has the strength left to do so. By the time the plant has developed those new soil roots, it could have been quite a size if it had been rooted in a proper rooting media in the first place. It is also very unlikely that a Norfolk Island pine cutting would develop roots in water.

Dracaena

Common Name: Dracaena (Common names are applied to each species)

Botanical Name: Dracaena

Plant Family: Agavaceae (Agave Family)

These popular evergreen foliage plants are found growing at home in tropical countries such as Africa, Madagascar, Upper Guinea and the Canary Islands. The plants genus name, Dracaena, is derived from the Greek word drakaina which means a 'dragon' and alludes to the sap or juice of the stems of Dracaena draco, which was said to resemble dragon's blood. There is also mention that the plant may have been named after Sir Francis Drake.

Generally speaking, they are single stemmed, tree-like foliage plants with mostly narrow, sword-like leaves, green in color, or green with variously colored longitudinal stripes on each leaf. Young dracaena plants naturally have leaves located at the base of the plant, but as the plants mature, they lose their bottom leaves, thus giving the plant a palm-like appearance. It is for this reason they are often called 'False Palms'. Dracaenas rarely flower when they are grown as houseplants, but they do produce red, yellowish or greenish flowers in clusters or panicles when they do flower. Dracaena fragrans and Dracaena goldiana both have very fragrant flowers. These tropical plants can only be grown out of doors in very warm climates (zones 10, 11 etc.)

One commonly grown species of Dracaena which is distinctly different from all the others is D. godseffiana (= D. surculosa) (Gold-dust Dracaena). The species name surculosa means suckering. The plant does not have the long, narrow leaves growing at the top of the stem like that of a palm tree, but rather, a shrubby bush form with wiry stems, smallish 4 - 5 inch long, oval shaped, variegated leaves, irregularly spotted with creamy yellow. These slow growing plants seldom reach 3 feet high at maturity. If the plant blooms, the greenish-yellow fragrant flowers are followed by attractive red berries. Popular cultivars of Dracaena godseffiana include: D.g. 'Kelleri' - spotted creamy leaves; D.g. 'Florida Beauty' - leaves have more cream coloring than green, and D.g. 'Juanita'.

Perhaps the most popular houseplants grown today are the cultivars of Dracaena deremensis (meaning - of Derema, Tanzania). The species has solid green leaves and is not commonly grown. It flowers in panicles, each flower dark red outside, white inside. The plants vary in height, but usually average 3 to 4 feet. Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' has 2 - 3 inch wide, shiny, dark green, strap-like leaves averaging 18 - 24 inches long. D.d. 'Warneckii' has 8 - 12 inch long green leaves with white longitudinal bands near the edge of the leaves. D.d. 'Lemon Lime' is similar to 'Warneckii', but has lime green stripes instead of white. D.d. 'Bausei' - two broad white bands running down the center of the green leaves. D.d. 'Rhoersii' - two thin white lines near the center of the leaf, pale green center, dark green edges. D.d. 'Jumbo' is a more compact form of 'Warneckii'. D.d. 'Yellow Stripe' - solid yellow leaf margins. D.d. 'White Stripe' - solid white leaf margins. D.d. 'Compacta' - a variety of 'Janet Craig' that somewhat resembles a bird nest-like plant, small leaves, approximately 1 foot tall. Other cultivars of Dracaena deremensis include: 'Calypso', 'Compacta Variegata', 'Gold Star', 'Green Stripe', 'Lisa', 'Michiko', 'Sandra Mastella', 'Warneckii Compacta', and 'Yellow Edge'.

Another popular species is Dracaena marginata (referring to the margined leaves) with common names of 'Madagascar Dragon Tree' or 'Red-edge Dracaena'. The plant has a slender trunk with 2 foot long narrow, arching, flat leaves that taper to a point. The predominant green leaves have a red-purple stripe running along the outer edge of the leaf. This dracaena truly resembles a palm tree as its bottom leaves mature and drop, leaving a tuff of green atop the slender stems. The plant can reach a height of 12 feet. Cultivars of Dracaena marginata include: D.m. 'Tricolor' - red leaf edges with white or yellowish stripes running along the green center, giving the plant an overall greenish-gold color; D.m. 'Colorama' - the red stripes on the leaf edges are much wider than those of 'Tricolor', giving the plant a distinct reddish color; others include: D.m. 'Santa Rosa'; D.m. 'Character'; D.m. 'Magenta' and D.m. 'Exotica'.

Another popular species is Dracaena fragrans (Fragrant Dracaena). The species name fragrans refers to the clusters of small, yellow, fragrant flowers. The leaves are solid green in color, graceful, 2 inches wide, 2 feet long, and resemble the leaves of a corn plant. 'Corn Plant' is the common name given to Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (also named 'Massange's Dracaena, after M. de Massange). The dark green, 18 - 30 inch long, 2 - 3 inch wide, broad, recurved leaves have a very noticeable corn colored yellow stripe running down the center of each leaf. The plant averages 6 feet in height. Other cultivars of D. fragrans include: D.f. 'Lindenii' - green centered leaves with creamy-white leaf margins; D.f. 'Rothiana' - thick, leathery, 3 inch wide, 28 to 32 inch long, dark green leaves with a white margin; D.f. 'Victoria' - gold or yellow marginal stripes; D.f. 'Hawaiian Gold'; D.f. 'Character';and D.f. 'Trident'.

'Dragon Tree' is the common name for Dracaena draco. The species name draco means 'a dragon' and refers to the resin (dragon's blood) which exudes from the trunk. The silvery-green leaves which grow in a crowded rosette average 1 ½ to 2 feet long, 1 ½ inches wide, are sword-shaped, and red-edged if the plant is given enough light. It is hard to give an average houseplant height to a plant that will reach 60 feet high in its natural surroundings, but a 4 foot plant is a fairly common size.

For those with small living quarters, Dracaena sanderiana (Sander's dracaena or Ribbon plant) is a good choice. The species is named after Henry Sander, founder of Sander's Nursery. The soft, lax leaves average 7 - 10 inches long, 1 inch wide and are grey-green in color with broad white edges. The plant ranges from 2 - 5 feet in height, but its narrow leaves make it useful in small places. Dracaena sanderiana 'Borinquensis' has a broad white stripe running down the center of each leaf, flanked by a pair of narrow white stripes and green leaf edges.

Dracaena reflexa (formerly Pleomele reflexa) gets its species name from the reflexed flowers (inflorescence), meaning they are turned or bent backwards. The plant has weak stems and often requires a rigid support to keep it from sprawling. If warm temperatures and very moist, humid air can not be provided, the plant will drop its leaves and stop growing. The species is seldom found, but Dracaena reflexa 'Variegata' (known as 'Song of India') is fairly common. It has 6 inch long, yellow edged leaves, and can reach a height of 10 feet. It is not an easy plant to grow, and over-watering will cause the leaves to turn yellow and eventually drop. D. r. 'Angustifolia Honoriae' is another cultivar.

Dracaena goldieana (named after the Rev. Hugh Goldie, an American missionary in West Africa in the 19th century) has large, 10 inch long, light green leaves that are banded and marbled with dark green and silver-grey coloring. Dracaena hookeriana (named after Hooker), forms a trunk and has narrow green leaves that average 24 - 30 inches long. Both D.h. 'Latifolia' and D.h. 'Variegata' have variegated leaves.

One other commonly grown houseplant that is often called a dracaena, but is NOT, is Cordyline terminalis. The plant is often sold under the names Dracaena terminalis or Cordyline fruticosa. The plant has many common names including Ti plant, Polynesian Ti, Goodluck Plant and Red Dracaena. The genus name Cordyline is from the Greek word kordyle (a club) and refers to the large, fleshy roots of some species. The species name terminalis means 'terminal' and refers to the inflorescence (flowers). Cordyline also belongs to the Agavaceae family. There are two easy ways to differentiate between the genera, and that is by examining the roots and leaves of the plant. The genus Dracaena has smooth-surfaced, orange or deep yellow colored rootstocks (inner tissue) that do not creep, whereas, the genus Cordyline has knobbly, white colored, creeping rootstocks. Plants in the genus Cordyline have leaf petioles (stalks on the leaf that joins the leaf to the stem), like the leaves of an African violet, whereas, the leaves of plants in the Dracaena genus do not have leaf petioles - like a spider plant leaf, for example.

Cordyline terminalis (Ti Plant) has 1 foot long, plain green leaves. It is the leaves of this plant that are used in making the famous 'hula skirts' in Hawaii. The plant often grows 6 to 8 feet tall. There are many cultivars of C. terminalis, which have very brightly colored leaves. Popular ones include: C.t. 'Firebrand' - bronzy colored; C.t. 'Amabilis' - green, rose and white; C.t. 'Prince Albert' - green and red; C.t. 'Baptistii' - striped with green, yellow and pink; C.t 'Red-edge' - green leaves streaked with red; C.t. 'Tricolor' - 1 foot long leaves blotched with cream, pink and red; C.t. 'Kiwi' - stripes of light green, dark green, cream and pink; C.t. 'Bicolor' - pink and green leaves. Others: 'Baby Doll', 'Baby Pink', 'Bangkok Gold', 'Black Magic', 'Bolero', 'Bronze', 'Calypso Queen', 'Cameroon', 'Eugene Andre', 'Global', 'Kilimanjaro', 'Nagi', 'Purple', 'Red', 'Red Emerald', 'Red Sister', 'Red Star', 'Rojo' (red), 'Rosebud', 'Schubertii', 'Tango', 'Tequesta', 'Tiffany', 'White Baby Doll' and 'Xerox'.

Other species of Cordyline are C.stricta (also called C. congesta) - a slender stemmed plant with narrow (1- 1 ½ in. wide) green leaves, averaging 16 - 30 inches in length - the plant often producing panicles of light blue flowers. Mature plants can reach 10 feet in height. C. australis (Grass Palm, Cabbage Plant) - green, narrow, arching leaves, 1 ¼ inches wide, 20 - 30 inches long, grow in a rosette about the trunk of the plant. C. australis 'Veitchii' - both the leaf base and mid-rib of each leaf is bright red. C. indivisa - 2 - 4 inch wide, 4 foot long, thick, leathery leaves with orange colored veins and mid-rid, and C. indivisa 'Cuprea' which has coppery-red leaves.

CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

The cultural requirements of both genera are basically the same. Both need warmth and high humidity, but it is essential that Cordyline be provided with very high humidity - at least 60%. Dracaena godseffiana can withstand drier air and lower winter temperatures than all the others. Dracaena marginata, Dracaena draco and Cordyline australis are relatively easy to care for in that they will grow in dimmer light and can withstand somewhat cooler winter temperatures.

LIGHT

Provide a location with bright, indirect light, such as an east or west window, or a curtain-filtered south window. Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' does well in low light levels of 100 to 150 foot candles - in direct sunlight its leaves will scorch (as will most dracaena). D. fragrans will survive in low light (50 foot candles), but flourishes in filtered sunlight - in direct sun its leaves will turn brown and dry out. D. d. 'Janet Craig' grows best in filtered sunlight. A lack of magnesium in the soil coupled with low light can result in yellow spotting on the leaves of 'Janet Craig' dracaena. To rectify the problem, soak the potting soil with a solution of water and Epsom salts (1 tablespoon of salt to a gallon of water) and move it immediately to a brighter location. D. terminalis must have bright light. In general, if only artificial light can be provided (no windows), ensure that dracaena species receive at least 400 foot candles of light for 8 to 12 hours daily. Cordyline terminalis can be given 4 to 6 hours of direct sun daily to maintain its rich colors, or otherwise, it must be provided with at least 800 foot candles of artificial light for at least 12 hours per day. Plants that are receiving too much direct sun will often develop dry, bleached patches on the leaves. Brown leaf tips and edges can be a result of too little light.

TEMPERATURE

Both genera need warmth. Night temperatures of 65 - 70° F and daytime temperatures of 75 to 85° F are ideal. Those that will tolerate a bit cooler temperatures have been previously mentioned. Leaves will become soft and curled and develop brown edges if temperatures are too cold. Consistently cold temperatures can cause stem and root rot and death of the plant, especially if the plant is being over-watered.

WATERING

It is important to keep the potting media of most species moist at all times. Thoroughly soak the media when watering the plant by watering from the top of the pot until water runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. Use tepid, fluoride free water. This method of watering leaches out excess salts that can build up in the soil and harm the plants roots and leaves. Never let the pot sit in the excess drainage water - soggy wet soil can cause root rot and other problems. The plant should not be watered again until the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch. A soil that is constantly wet on the surface is an indication that the plant is being over-watered. On the other hand, it is very important that the soil-ball does not dry out completely - this is fatal to some species. Symptoms of dryness at the roots include: brown tips and yellow edges on the leaves; brown, crisp spots on the foliage; wilting leaves, and lower leaves that dry up and fall off.

Over-watering associated with cold temperatures is a main cause of plant death. The easiest way to prevent over-watering is to ensure the plant is potted in a well-drained media. Soft, dark brown spots or patches on the leaves; curling and falling leaves; several leaves turning yellow at the same time and falling; wilting leaves, and rotting stems and leaves are symptoms of over-watering. A plant that is growing very slowly or is not growing at all during the growing season (not the dormant period) is often suffering from over-watering or water-logged soil. One species that should be allowed to become quite dry before watering is D. fragrans. If it is over-watered, the canes are likely to rot. It should be noted that water with high levels of fluoride can cause tip burn on Dracaena leaves. Adding ground limestone (calcium) to the media raises the soils pH (should be near 6.5 - 7.0) which reduces tip burn caused by fluoride build up in the media.

HUMIDITY

Provide Dracaena spp. and Cordyline spp. with a humid environment. Misting, pebble trays with water, moist sphagnum moss placed around the pot, grouping plants together, or installing a humidifier are means of providing a humid environment for these plants. The usual symptoms caused by dry air are leaves with brown tips and yellow edges. Cold and hot drafts produce similar effects, as does under-watering, or leaf tips touching cold window panes. Dracaena draco and Dracaena godseffiana will tolerate drier air.

MEDIA AND FEEDING

Any general purpose potting media is fine, as long as it drains freely. It may be necessary to add some perlite to the media to improve drainage. If the media does not have any fertilizer added to it, a good practice is to add a tablespoonful of ground limestone, 2 tablespoons of bonemeal and 2 teaspoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer to a gallon of the media, and thoroughly mix it in.

Repotting is generally only required every 2 years, but if the plant is overcrowded or pot-bound, it should be repotted into a one size larger container as soon as the condition occurs. They can be repotted at any time of the year.

Feed Dracaena plants once every 5 or 6 months, and Cordyline once every 3 or 4 months with any well-balanced plant food (examples: 15-30-15, 20-20-20-, 5-10-5). (The time given is only on average. If the plant is doing fine, do not feed it. If the plant appears to be growing slowly, the new leaves appear smaller than usual, or the plant is rather pale in color, it may need some fertilizer a bit sooner. There is never a set time for fertilizing or watering a plant - it should be fertilized or watered when it needs it). Follow the instructions on the fertilizer labels carefully, and if anything, cut back a bit. Over-fertilizing a plant does far greater damage than under-fertilizing it. Never fertilize a plant when the soil is on the dry side, or while the plant is dormant. It is usually a good practice to resist feeding a newly purchased plant for several months, as most plants have been adequately fertilized before leaving the greenhouse or nursery.

GROOMING

Keep the leaves clean on your houseplants. Use a feather duster to remove dust, or wash the plants with a mild detergent and water solution. Rinse the leaves with tepid water. Regular cleaning not only keeps the plant healthy, but also helps prevent insects from getting a foothold. The main ones to watch for are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. The best natural control is maintaining a humid environment and providing sanitary conditions. If chemicals are required for insect control, use those that are registered for use on dracaena plants. Most garden supply centers, shopping malls and hardware stores handle these products. Watch for Leaf spot disease and Anthracnose on some species, and stem or root rot on all species. Remove dead leaves and trim off brown or dead leaf edges and tips with a pair of sharp scissors. Cut back into the healthy leaf tissue when trimming the leaf and follow the natural contour of the leaf.

PROPAGATION

Both genera can be propagated from stem-tip, stem, or cane cuttings, and air-layering. If basal shoots are produced at the base of a plant, these can also be used to propagate new plants. D. reflexa can be propagated by division. For full instructions on how to air-layer a plant, see PROPAGATION PART 2. Rooting a stem-tip cutting is almost the same as air-layering a plant, the only difference is that the stem-tip (usually the top foot or so with larger plants) is cut completely off the top of the plant. Then, 4 inches of leaves are stripped off the bottom end of the stem-tip cutting, and the bottom end of the cutting is then inserted in a moist rooting medium like sand or vermiculite until roots have formed. The cutting is kept moist, warm and out of direct sunlight. Once it is well rooted, it is carefully taken out of the rooting media and potted up in a well-drained potting media. Cane cuttings are usually made after a plant has been air-layered, or after the stem-tip has been removed to make a cutting. A portion of stem can be cut off the top part of the original stem (after the stem-tip has been removed) to make the cane cuttings. The stub, or cane of the original plant (the part that remains in the pot) will put out new shoots directly below the cut (usually several shoots) and continue to grow. The piece of remaining cane is then stripped of all leaves and cut into pieces about 4 to 6 inches long. These pieces are then laid horizontally on top of a moist rooting medium and half buried (you will see ½ inch of a 1 inch thick cane above the media after it is buried, for example). The pieces should be laid on the rooting media so that as many nodes (little green bumps on the cane) as possible are located on the top half of the cane, exposed to the light. The media must be kept moist, not wet. Once the little shoots are two inches tall, they are cut off the piece of cane (with a little piece of the old cane still attached) and inserted in a rooting media to form their own roots. Once they are well rooted, they are repotted in a well-drained potting media. Alternatively, stand a 10 inch piece of the cane or stem vertically in moist media and start a Ti Tree.

A good site to find nursery information on the plants listed in this article as well as many other is: www.fnga.org/locator/SearchPlants.asp.

Peace Lily Won't Bloom

We are having a problem with our peace lilies budding, but they do not bloom. They turn brown and dry up. Can you tell me what we should do? Thanks for your help!

Peace Lily

'Bud blast' is the term used when flower buds on any flowering plant fail to open, and drop off the plant. There can be one, or a combination of factors which leads to this plant problem. Hopefully you will be able to diagnose and solve the problem with your peace lily from the following list of conditions which most commonly cause the loss of flower buds on houseplants.

Dry air or too little humidity - increase the humidity levels in the air around your plant by misting the plant, providing a pebble tray under the potted plant, and be sure the plant is not located to close to hot or cold drafts. (Heat registers, open windows or doors, etc.) An occasional tepid shower in the shower is always beneficial to a plant as it removes dust, grime and insects.

Underwatering can cause bud drop - It is critical that peace lilies have a constantly moist soil, especially while they are flowering. Water the plant as soon as the soils surface approaches dryness. Use tepid water and water the plant thoroughly by pouring water unto the soils surface until the excess water runs freely out of the pots drainage holes. Do not let the pot sit in the excess water, however, as too much water (overwatering) can also cause bud drop, as well as other problems.

Too little light - the plant may have to be moved to a brighter location or, supplied with artificial lighting, if necessary. Although peace lilies can survive in rather low light conditions, they must have enough light to produce the energy required by the plant to initiate flower buds and sustain those flowers. If there is only enough light available to keep the plant alive, they will abort the flower buds.

Temperatures are too cold or too hot - most flowering plants fail to flower properly under these conditions. Peace lilies enjoy night temperatures near 65 degrees F and daytime highs of 72 - 75 degrees F.

Insects - check the plant over carefully for those hard to see insects, such as spider mites, which maybe feeding on the flowers buds.

Natural gas which is used for heating or cooking can cause bud blast ( buds brown, dry up and fall off) if the appliances are not properly vented to the outside. Have the air checked in the home for toxic gases, and correct venting problems, if necessary.