Brown Dieffenbachia Leaves

My Dieffenbachia is turning brown and losing leaves. What am I doing wrong?

Dieffenbachia

If we have some knowledge of where a house plant originates, we can then try and duplicate those conditions in our home, thus providing an environment favourable to the plants health. 'Dieffenbachia' or Dumbcane, as it is commonly called, is native to tropical America (Costa Rica and Colombia, for example) as well as the West Indies. Dieffenbachia is named in honour of Herr J. F. Dieffenbach, a German botanist who supervised the imperial gardens at Schonbrunn Castle in Vienna in the 19th century. The common names of the plant, 'Dumbcane' and sometimes 'Mother-in-laws-Tongue', are derived from the effects the toxic or poisonous sap of the plant has on a person's mouth and throat if it should be eaten or chewed. The sap contains calcium oxolate crystals which causes swelling and pain of the mouth and throat, as well as speechlessness in many cases. It is for this reason, very important to keep the plant out of reach of children and pets, and to wash the hands after handling the plant. Dieffenbachia belongs to the Arum family, 'Araceae'.

Dieffenbachia plants are easily recognized by their large, brittle, oblong or ovate, often drooping, variegated leaves. The green leaves are either spotted, blotched, or streaked with cream, white, yellow, gold, silver, or a combination of these colors. Depending on the species or cultivar, the leaf size ranges from 8 inches long to over 2 feet long. If the leaves should be bruised or cracked, which they do very easily, they often give off a skunk-like odor. Be careful when handling or moving the plants so as not to damage the leaves. The leafstalks sheath at the base of the plant and encircle the normally non- branching stems (like a tree, not a shrub). Although some plants can reach a height of 6 feet or higher, they usually end up looking like a palm tree by this time due to the fact the bottom leaves drop off the plant as they mature. This is a good time to rejuvenate the plant, and perhaps start a few more plants using various methods of propagation to do so. The top part of the plant can be air-layered, and once it has rooted and been removed from the plant, the stem can be cut back to 4 - 6 inches from the pots rim to stimulate new growth from the short stub. The remainder of the stem can then be used to make cane cuttings. To make cane cuttings, cut the bare stem into 4 - 6 inch long pieces, being sure each piece has at least one node (a small green swelling on the cane). Lay the pieces of cane horizontally in moist sand or any rooting medium with the majority of the nodes facing upwards, and bury only the lower half of the cane in the media. Once the new shoots reach approximately 2 inches high, cut them from the cane with a small piece of the cane attached, and root these shoots in moist sand. Once rooted, they can be potted up in 3 or 4 inch pots in proper compost or soil. Alternatively, insert the pieces of cane upright (vertically) in the moist sand. Bury the bottom 1/3 of the cane, being sure to bury the end which was the lower part of the stem. This is the method used to produce a 'Ti-plant'.

Dieffenbachia

Because these are tropical plants, they require a warm, humid environment to succeed. Daytime temperatures of 75 - 85 degrees F, and nightime temperatures of 65 degrees F (no lower) are ideal. If temperatures are too cold or the plant is subjected to cold drafts, the leaves will either develop brown edges, turn completely brown and drop, or the lower leaves will turn yellow and wilt. Extreme or fluctuating temperatures can kill some delicate varieties. Along with warm temperatures, a high level of humidity should be maintained. If the air is too dry, the young leaves will often fall. Place damp peat moss around the pot, use pebble trays, or set basins of water near heat registers to increase humidity levels around the plant. Mist the leaves in the morning hours of each day if humidity levels are very low. Wash the leaves at least once a month with warm, soapy water to clean them and also remove any insects which may be harbouring on the plant. Rinse with clean water. Never use leaf shine products on the leafs.

Dieffenbachia camille

Provide 400 foot candles of light for Dieffenbachia plants. This is a bright, indirect light, such as a curtain-filtered south window. Direct sun shine can bleach or fade the leaf coloring, whereas, too dim a light will either cause the plant to lose its variegated colors and revert back to green, or, the lower leaves could dry up and fall.

Dieffenbachia compacta

Watering can be a touchy subject with this plant. While the plant is actively growing, keep the soil moist to moderately dry. The media must never be soggy wet, as overwatering will cause the lower leaves to drop. In winter, or the dormant period, the plant will need to be watered more sparingly, especially if room temperatures are on the cool side. The plant is very susceptible to crown and stem rot disease when a combination of overwatering and low temperatures co-exist. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the leaves will develop brown edges.

Dieffenbachia tiki

Dieffenbachia generally require fertilizing only every 2 or 3 months while they are actively growing. Use a plant food such as 5-10-5 diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the fertilizer containers label. Never feed the plant while it is dormant.

The most common pests of Dieffenbachia include mealybugs, aphids, red spider mite and scale. A humid atmosphere helps in detering these insects. If an insecticide is needed for control of a heavy infestation, choose one that is recommended for use on Dieffenbachia as listed on the containers label. These insecticides can be found at most garden centers or hardware stores. Diseases common to the plant are leaf spot, stem, crown and root rot, anthracnose and Dasheen mosaic virus.

Dieffenbachia Tropic Breeze

The genus 'Dieffenbachia' contains over 12 species, as well as over 50 introduced cultivars. A few of the more common species include: D. amoena - dark green to blue- green leaves feathered with white; D. bausei - yellowish-green leaves with green margins and white spots (a hybrid plant); D. bowmannii - large green leaves with white spots; D. chelsonii - deep, satiny green leaves marked with gray feathering; D. exotica (arvida) - a good smaller plant for the home, dull green leaves variegated with creamy white; D. fournieri - almost black-green leaves with white spots; D. fosteri - green leaves, a short dwarf variety; D. hoffmannii - velvety green leaves blotched with cream or white and prominent white mid-ribs (the main vein of the leaf); D. imperialis - bright green leaves with soft yellow blotches; D. leonii - green margined velvety yellow leaves; D. longispatha - light midribs, dark green leaves; D. memoria-corsii - gray colored leaves with ivory spots and green veins; D. oerstedii - dark green leaves with prominent white mid-ribs; D. parlatorei - shiny, deep green leaves; D. picta - green leaves blotched with white; D. picta barraquiniana - green spotted white leaves with prominent white center veins; D. picta jenmannii - green leaves with white veins in a herringbone pattern; D. picta superba - green leaves spotted or blotched with cream, a very compact form; D. sequine liturata - velvety green leaves with white center veins; D. splendens (hybrid) - bronzy-green velvety leaves spotted with white and white mid-ribs.

Dieffenbachia Tropic Marianne

A few of the many cultivars include: 'Alix' - green and white variegated leaves; 'Camille' - creamy white leaves edged with green and green mid-rib; 'Rebecca' - compact, creamy white leaves splotched with green and yellow; 'Rudolf Roehrs' - white blotches on gold- green leaves with dark green leaf edges and dark green mid-rib; 'Compacta' - creamy white leaves with green spots; 'Tropic Star' - bright creamy-yellow with irregular green splotches; 'Silver' - silver and green leaves; 'Nelly' - green leaves with cream, slow growing and compact; 'Pittieri' - emerald green leaves with white and ivory patches; 'Wilson's Delight' - large, solid-green leaves with white mid-ribs; 'Perfection' - green and cream variegated leaves.

Improve Soil for Arborvitaes

I have 10 emerald green arborvitaes of 12 ft in height which were planted in spring of 2001. They were bright green until this past summer where in Rye, New York we experienced a drought problem and they started to brown. Even with all the water we recently gotten, they still don't look healthy. I'm planning to retransplant them to a anothert location for esthetic reasons but I'm afraid that they may not survive. Can you let me know what I can do to improve the conditions of the trees and if its possible I can retransplant them and what kind of soil and fertilizer do I need to do this.

Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

Arborvitae

It is best to plant the trees directly in the type of soil you have in your yard or garden. It is a mistake to dig a hole and fill it with soil that has a different soil structure, as well as a mistake to spread a layer of soil with different structural texture over the existing layer of soil. These methods create problems with water moving through the soil, and the trees will surely do poorly, if they survive at all. The first thing to do is remove the topsoil from a three foot in diameter circle for each tree and set it to the side. Loosen the subsoil with a spade to a depth of about 2 feet and chop it up finely so as there are no large lumps. Mix a little loam soil, peat moss, sharp sand and bone meal into this subsoil layer to improve drainage and texture. (You may have to get rid of a few shovels full of this subsoil before mixing in the ingredients, or you'll end up with too much soil upon completion). After doing this, return the topsoil (even if is clayey) and thoroughly mix in some loam soil, more peat moss (a layer that is at least 3 or 4 inches thick when spread over the soils surface), sharp sand (unless of course your soil is very sandy or gravelly, in which case omitt the sand), and a cupfull of bonemeal. The bonemeal is high in phosphorous and promotes healthy root growth. The end result should be a loose, friable soil (like a garden soil that you could easily plant small seeded veggies like carrots or lettuce, for example). There should only be enough soil in the planting hole so that after the tree is planted, there is still a 2 inch depression around the tree so that water will soak into the soil around the tree as opposed to draining away from the trees roots due to a build up of soil around the tree. I always carefully remove 2 or 3 inches of soil from the plants rootball so that some of the plants roots are already surrounded with this fresh soil when the tree is planted. This also enables one to spread out any roots that were circling the rootball (if it was container grown) or prune off any broken roots. It is important to cover the root ball of the planted tree with at least one inch of your soil, otherwise, if the root ball is of a different soil type, and it is higher than the surrounding soil, it can act as a wick and dry out quickly, killing the trees roots. The soil must be kept moist when establishing newly planted trees or shrubs, never soggy wet, or allowed to dry out. The soil around the trees should than be mulched with a 4 to 6 inch layer of organic matter to prevent loss of soil moisture, maintain even soil temperature, keep the soil loose and help prevent the growth of weeds.

Once arborvitae are fully established, all that is generally necessary is a sprinkling of 5-10- 5 fertilizer around each tree in early spring to keep them growing healthy and green. If this does not appear to be doing the job, a soil test may be necessary to find out which macro or micro-nutrients are lacking in the soil.

I do not know if your trees were balled and burlapped, or container grown when they were purchased, but if they were ball and burlapped, they will have naturally lost alot of roots when they were dug up. If the 12 foot high trees did not receive adequate water during the dry spell, along with a reduced amount of roots needed to absorb moisture, (even though it is a year later) the direct result would be browning of the needles caused by dessication. Another possibility of browing needles could be a heavy infestation of spider mites or other insects. It won't hurt to examine the trees carefully for pests. If the trees are located near roads, and salt is used for de-icing the roads, splashing salt water will cause browining of the needles. Pesticides will also kill evergreen needles if the pesticde were used in high concentration and close to the trees. (Just some other possible causes of browning).

The only way to help the trees at this time is to keep the soil moist (providing the ground is not frozen) and if possible, provide shelter from the prevailing winds by placing burlap in front of the trees. Spraying the foliage with water from a garden hose during warm spells will also help reduce further dessication of the needles.

It would do the trees more harm than good to try and transplant them at this time of the year. Early spring is the best time to transplant arborvitae, at least in the colder regions of our continent. If the trees must be moved in the spring, it will be best to try and dig up a larger root ball in order to try and save any new roots the tree has produced over the last two seasons. A further loss of roots at this time when the trees are already stressed will definetly do more harm than good.

Brown Fern Leaves

My ferns are turning brown on the ends. Leaves are falling off. I put them in the bathroom for the humidity but this just made ends turn brown even more. I water when the soil is almost dry. I am using fertilizer which has kept the plant green. What can I do and how long will it take for this plant to pep up with the right conditions? I wanted to use them in my wedding January first but that doesn't look like it's going to happen.

Boston Fern - Nephrolepis exaltata

Firstly, the Boston Fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata 'Bostoniensis') is a tropical plant, so, in order for it to succeed in our homes, we have to try and give it (as closely as possible) the same environmental conditions it would have growing in its native habitat. This is not to say that all Ferns growing in nature are perfect, absolutely not. In fact, the most beautiful specimens are found in greenhouses where temperature, watering, humidity and fertilizing are stringently controlled. Unfortunately, in most of our homes, the environment is less than perfect, so we can not always expect our plants to look absolutely perfect, no matter how hard we try. Although, in some homes there is that perfect spot where all the factors required for optimum growth and health of a particular plant exist, and it will simply flourish, even with neglect. On the other hand, there are homes where the necessary factors for a particular plant do not exist, in which case, it is best to choose a different plant altogether, one that will tolerate, or even thrive in that particular environment. This is not to say a Boston Fern will not flourish in your home, but, if the plant is constantly showing signs of stress, then it may be best to try growing a different plant under those conditions in the home.

To grow a healthy Boston Fern, the media must be well-drained but also contain ample amounts of organic matter such as peat moss so it will retain moisture. The soil must never be allowed to dry out, it must be kept constantly moist, so the number one problem with your plant may be found in your statement ('I water when the soil is almost dry'). However, the soil must never stay soggy wet as this condition can lead to root rot. Thoroughly water the plant as soon as the soils surface approaches dryness. Do not let the pot sit in the excess drainage water after watering the plant. Water the plant according to the environmental conditions surrounding the plant. For example, a plant will need to be watered less frequently when days are cool and cloudy, as compared to hot and sunny days. A plant growing in a very warm centrally heated room will need watering more often than a plant in a cool room. There is really no such thing as a regular watering schedule for any plant, it should only be watered when it needs watering.

The bathroom humidity is probably fine, as the Boston Fern needs a humid environment, but is the plant receiving adequate light and warmth? They thrive in a curtain-filtered window or artificial light of 300 to 400 footcandles. They must not have direct sun, nor heavy shade. A plant that gradually turns yellow and starts to die off needs more light, or the the air in the room is too warm. When the air is too warm, the fronds will start turning yellow from the base of the plant or the fronds will develop brown spots and fall.

They thrive in a temperature range of 60 degrees F at night and 70 degrees F during the day. If the daytime temperatures are higher, the air must be humid. A combination of dry air and dry soil will result in the fronds dying back. Yellowing fronds, or those with brown tips are the result of the air being too dry. It is important to keep the plant away from radiators and hot air registers as these plants can not tolerate hot dry air or overly warm conditons. The plant must not be subjected to cold drafts. If the fronds are being continually touched or handled, they will turn brown.

Over-fertilizing the Boston Fern, especially if the soil is too dry, will cause fronds to turn brown without fail. In most cases, the plant only needs to be fed twice a year, once in spring and once again in mid-summer, unless the plants fronds are showing the familiar pale green symptom in which case it may need an additional feeding. A balanced plant food such as 20-20-20 applied at half the manufacturer's recommended rate is usually sufficient. As long as the plant looks healthy and is growing, there is no need to fertilize it.

Browning fronds can be the result of a pot bound plant or a compacted soil. When the plant is watered, the water may not soak the entire root-ball if the soil is compacted, but merely drain away down the sides of the root-ball. With a pot-bound plant, the pot is so full of roots that the soil can not hold enough water at each watering to meet the plants demands, and the fronds will turn yellow or brown.

Another possible cause, although unlikely in this case, is damage from insect pests. Keep an eye open for spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, thrips and scale insects. If the plant is not too large, it is of great benefit to take it to the shower now and again and give it a washing with a gentle spray of tepid water to wash off any dust or insects that may have accumulated.

Finally, it is not uncommon for the odd mature frond to turn brown on the plant. Simply cut if off at the soil line and remove it. Brown leaflets can also be removed to improve the looks of the plant. It is best to remove the dead fronds close to the soil so the new fronds can grow up through the plant easier. In conclusion, the two most important factors in keeping a Boston Fern healthy and acitively growing are: 1. Never let the soil (media) dry out, and 2. always keep the surrounding air moist or humid. These rules apply to almost all the different kinds of ferns we grow as houseplants.

Yellowing Yucca Leaves

I have a Elephant Yucca plant indoors. Lately the leaves have been turning yellow and aren't as sturdy as before. They are becoming droopy. Is this the result of too little watering or too much watering. I appreciate your help. Thank you.

Spineless Yucca - Yucca elephantipes

As I have no way of knowing what is actually causing the leaves to turn yellow and droop on your Spineless Yucca (Yucca elephantipes), I hope you will be able to determine the cause of the problem from the information provided below.

Yellowing, wilting, or drooping leaves can be a direct result of either under-watering or over-watering the plant. The best way to water the plant is to thoroughly soak the soil and then do not water it again until the soil's surface is dry. The pot must never sit in the excess water that runs out of the containers drainage holes. The soil or medium must be one that is gritty and drains freely to prevent possible over-watering of the plant. In winter, if the room is quite cool, the plant must be watered even more sparingly as Yucca plants are very susceptible to stem and root rot diseases under cold, wet conditions.

If the soil is allowed to over-dry, the plant will not be able to absorb enough water, so the plants cells will loose turgor (the normal size or swelling of a cell caused by internal pressure of water taken in by the cell) due to transpiration, and thus, the leaves will wilt or droop. With prolonged dryness of the soil, some leaves (usually the lower older leaves, but not always) will quit functioning, turn yellow and die. This is natural. The older leaves are aborting in order that the younger leaves will recieve the water. The solution is to water the plant more frequently, so as not to allow the soil to over-dry.

If the plant is being over-watered, the same effect is taking place, but in a somewhat different manner. Firstly, a plants roots must have oxygen for both the roots and the plant to be healthy and survive. A good potting media should be porous (have little spaces between the soil particles), and ideally, half of the pores should be filled with water and the remaining half filled with oxygen (air). If a soil has poor structural content (has few pore spaces) and is kept constantly wet, the plants roots are harmed due to a build up of poisonous gases (carbon dioxide, etc) in the soil given off by the plants roots as they transpire. The damaged roots (many of which begin to decay) can no longer absorb enough water to meet the plants demands, and the same effect occurs as with an over- dry soil, the leaves turn yellow and droop. The difference here is that a plant that wilts from drought will bounch back if it is watered soon enough, whereas, an over-watered plant that suffers from root decay will only get worse and eventually collaspe (die) if it continues to be over-watered. The solution is to reduce watering! It may be necessary to check the plants root ball for decaying (mushy, brown, sometimes foul smelling) roots. If present, they should be cut back to healthy, white colored roots and the plant should be repotted in fresh, well-drained soil (media). Do not water the plant for at least two days so as to allow the root ends to callus. It is also important not to over-water the plant during the recovery period - it takes a while for the new roots to grow.

There could be other factors causing the problem such as the plant being potbound. In this case, the plant can not be supplied enough water to meet its demands due to the large amount of roots in the pot, and it will wilt between waterings. Repot the plant in a one size larger container.

An excessive build up fertilizer (salts) in the soil can cause the leaves to yellow and droop. Water molecules cling to the salt which prevents the roots from absorbing that water. Hard white, crusty deposits located near the pots drainage holes or a white crust on the soil's surface indicates a high sodium build up. The solution is to repot the plant in fresh, well-drained media, or leach out the excess salt by watering the plant thoroughly to dissolve the salts, and then water the plant again in half and hour to wash out the dissolved salts. Scrape off any salt deposits found near the drainage holes or on the pots sides. On the other hand, a plants leaves will turn yellow or pale green if it is lacking nutrients, especially nitrogen. Feed the plant a well-balanced plant food such as 20-20- 20 two or three times a year during the growing season.

Other possible causes are a sudden change in light, temperature or relative humidity. Remedies are to move the plant to a brighter or dimmer location, increase or decrease the temperature and maintain an even temperature range, and increase humidity levels in the room if they are very low. Often, over a period of time, the soil will become compacted and the roots may decay, again from a lack of oxygen - repot the plant in fresh soil.

Finally, a heavy insect infestation such as red spider mites can quickly turn a plants leaves yellow and cause them to droop. Examine the leaves and stem with a hand held magnifying glass and administer proper eradication procedures if insects are present.

Keeping Deer from Eating Arborvitae

We have tons of deer and 27 arborvitae just planted this year. They are about 4 feet tall. Deer go to these trees when the ground is covered with snow. How do we prevent this? Can we bag the trees in cloth and plastic, or what? Soap does not seem to work, and fencing can be expensive. Help!!

Arborvita

If deer become a very big problem, you can sometimes get help from your local Environemental or Conservation Departments in these matters.

Otherwise, each tree can be protected by surrounding it with burlap or any type of material, but this material should not touch the trees foliage. Another alternative, the one I frequently use, is to surround each tree with plastic snowfence or chicken wire, held in place with posts made up from 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick cement re-inforcing re-bar that has been cut into 4 or 5 foot lengths. Pound 4 or 5 of these posts into the ground around the tree, being sure each one is about 10 inches or so away from the tree, and tie the snowfence or chicken wire to the re-bar with soft wire. A piece of burlap can be used with the chicken wire on the side of the tree which faces the prevailing winds to help prevent winter browning of the needles.

A fairly reliable non-toxic animal repellent called 'Skoot' may be used to help deter the deer. This repellent works by leaving a very awful taste in the animals mouth. They seldom come back for a second mouthful. It is either painted or sprayed unto the tree or shrub. It should be available at most garden centers or hardware stores, but if you can not find it locally, here is the address for one source: Early's Established 1907, 2615 Lorne Ave., Saskatoon Saskatchewan, S7J 0S5, Canada Email: earlys@sasktel.net Website: www.earlysgarden.com.

Bloodmeal can be scattered on the ground around the trees to help deter the deer, but it becomes ineffective after a heavy snowfall, so additional applications are required. It is best to keep it several feet away from the trees as it is quite high in nitrogen.

Some folks claim hanging strands of human hair near each tree will work, but I've never tested this method. Setting bait out for the deer, as far away from the trees as possible should help to some degree. If all else fails, fencing the trees may be the only solution.

Ficus Lumps on Trunk and Stems

My indoor ficus benjamina is growing brown, round, clumps on the trunk and stems. Is this a fungus, disease, or what. It appears to be thriving okay, and has been repotted this spring. The main trunk has one lump that has been there approx. 4 years, but now other lumps are developing on the branches and higher up on the trunk. How much pruning should I do to keep it healthy? Thanks.

Ficus benjamina

I cannot be absolutely sure what the brown, round clumps are without actually seeing them, but here are some possibilties.

First, because the 4 year old lump does not appear to be hurting the tree, the clumps could be galls, caused by insects such as mites. These galls do little actual harm, but they are a nuisance in that they disfigure the tree. Galls are abnormal growths or tumors that vary in size from a wart to those which are several inches thick. The solution here would be to identify the mite problem (if there is one) and then treat the plant with an appropriate miticide to rid the plant of the mites.

If they are galls caused by a bacterial or fungal disease, it would be quite likely that the tree would be showing signs of stress after 4 years of infection. In any case, the solution would be to remove the galls by cutting the infected branches off from 4 to 6 inches below the galls. The pruning shears should be dipped into a 10% bleach solution after each cut is made to prevent spreading the disease to other parts of the plant.

Another cause could be a condition known as 'Oedema'. Swellings are caused by an over-development of cells, induced by an excess of water combined with incorrect lighting and temperature. The swellings appear as light brown, corky scabs or bumps on various parts of the plant, (in most cases the leaves). The problem is corrected by giving the plant better drainage ( a media which will not remain too wet), monitoring watering of the plant more closely and carefully, and moving the plant to better light if necessary.

Brown, soft scale appear as brown bumps or immobile lumps on the stem, branches and leaves of Ficus plants. A sticky substance known as 'honeydew' is often found on plant parts, or near the plant where scale insects are found. A black sooty mould will often develop and grow on this honeydew. These insects can be controlled by using a dormant oil spray which suffocates them, or by rubbing the scale rather roughly with a piece of cloth that has been dipped into a Malathion solution. 'ALWAYS FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS LISTED ON THE PESTICIDE CONTAINER'S LABLES'.

If still in doubt as to what the brown, round clumps are, send a sample to an Analytical Laboratory in your region for positive identification of the growths. Once they are identified, proper treatment can be administered.

Pruning Redbud Tree

We just bought a house that has a 10' redbud tree. The tree wasn't properly shaped when it was new so it has a lot of low branches, making it look almost like a bush. When and how much can be pruned. I know you said it shouldn't be pruned too much, but because of the way it looks we're tempted to get rid of it if it can't be helped. You have a great website, I looked at a lot of others for help and your's is the best.

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

Thank you very much for rating my web-site so highly. I have often wondered if anyone has ever used the information in my articles to their benefit. This was my hope and reason for starting the web-site.

As for pruning your redbud tree, the proper time is either immediately after it has completed blooming or when the tree is dormant in later winter (before it starts to flower or leaf out).

It is best to prune and shape this tree while it is young because of its susceptibility to so many diseases (Canker, Verticillium Wilt, and Rebud Leaf Spot, for examples). When the tree is young, the limbs or branches are small, so the wounds that are made from pruning are naturally small and will heal over quickly. In contrast, pruning off large branches results in leaving large wounds which may take several years to heal over. The longer a wound takes to heal over, the greater the risk of a pathogen entering the wound and infecting the tree with a disease.

However, now that your tree is beyond the young stage, you will need to remove some large branches to acquire the desired results you are after. At no time should more than 25% of a tree's top growth be removed intentionally (a windstorm that may cause a lot of damage is unavoidable, for example). A tree needs branches and leaves to produce food through the process of photosynthesis. If too many are removed at one time, the tree can suffer from a shortage of food production and the 'dwarfing' effect may occur - the tree will remain the same size for many years, or even die. Secondly, if two many branches are removed at one time, the tree now has a lot of established roots, but fewer branches and leaves to use the moisture and nutrients the roots can supply it. So, the tree can put out a horribly huge amount of water sprouts or suckers from dormant, latent buds, which rob nutrients from the good parts of the tree besides ruining the entire shape and look of the tree, if they are not removed. A portion of the topgrowth should be removed each year until the desired effect is achieved.

So basically, remove a few of the larger lower branches (do not leave any stubs as these will not heal over) and any branches that cross or rub each other, up to a maximum of 25% of the trees topgrowth in the first season. Remove smaller branches where they join a larger branch, again leaving no stubs. Before any pruning is done, take a look at the tree and keep in mind the natural shape of the tree. One can not put a branch back on the tree after it is cut off. The idea is to form a tree with strong (branches are at right angles to the trunk), well spaced main branches that hold true to the shape of that species of tree, along with an open, airy canopy by removing crowded branches in the canopy. Tree wounds do not need to be painted with a tree dressing, but if you feel it is necessary, use only Pine Tar Tree Wound Dressing.

I hope your tree does well and will not have to be removed. Best of luck with the pruning!

When to Take Cuttings from Gardenia

When is the best time to try to establish a new cutting from a Gardenia Bush and how?

Gardenia jasminoides

Greenwood and semi-ripe cuttings root well at anytime of the year (March being the best time ). Both types of cuttings are taken from the current years growth. Basically, this means choosing shoots that have not become to woody (hard), nor those that are still soft and sappy. Use only healthy, disease free shoots. These cuttings differ from hardwood cuttings in that hardwood cuttings are mature wood and the stems or shoots do not have leaves when they are taken. Gardenias can also be air-layered to propagate new plants (see article on air-layering).

Make the cuttings about 3 inches long using the stem-tips. Cut the bottom of the cutting just below a node (joint) with a very sharp knife. Remove the bottom leaves from the cutting. Dip the bottom end of the cutting in a rooting hormone powder (shake off the excess powder) or gel, and insert immediately into the rooting medium so as not to let the cuttings wilt. Use vermiculite, a sand and peat mixture, or a commercially prepared rooting medium to root the cuttings. Water the cuttings in well and keep the media moist thereafter - never soggy wet. Place each cutting in its own little pot or tray, as gardenia's resent having their roots disturbed. Once they have rooted, they can be transplanted into proper soil by taking them out of the little pot, media and all, so as not to disturb the roots.

These cuttings generally root in 6 - 8 weeks, provided the air is kept humid around them, and they are given bottom heat (media) of 68 - 77 degrees F. (Cuttings have usually rooted when new growth is noticed at the tips, or when they resist a very gentle tugging). To keep them close (humid) and the media warm, they can be placed in a clear plastic bag and the container set on top of a refrigerator, for example.

Sanitation is a very important factor when trying to root cuttings. To start with, hands should be clean, tools should be sterile (dip them in a water and bleach solution), the rooting media must be sterile (vermiculite for example), and the containers should be new, or at least clean and sterile. The plastic bag should be removed from the cuttings for a short while at least every two days or so, to replace stale air with fresh air. Any decaying or moldy leaves should be removed immediately to prevent the spread of disease (Gray Mold) to other cuttings. If mold becomes a problem, treat the cuttings with a dusting of sulphur or other fungicide, and give the cuttings more ventilation (poking a few holes in the plastic bag, for example).

Over all, the secret to success is in providing the cuttings with good media aeration, a warm, humid environment and a warm rooting medium. Cuttings do not always strike (take root), but this is no reason to give up. In time, and with practice, one learns when to take the cuttings and when the wood is at the proper ripeness for easy rooting. Its like anything else, practice makes perfect. Best of luck!

Potted Plant Drainage

I have a peace lily that I got when my mother past away so it really means alot to me. I transplanted it from its original pot to a pretty pot, about a 3 gal. container. It does not have drain holes in it though. It did good for awhile then recently not so good. It is always wet but I think it is too wet. Should it have drain holes? I put some osmacote plant fertilizer in it and some natures helper on the top for some fresh soil. Need help please!!!

Peace Lily Spathiphyllum spp.

All plants should be given containers with drainage holes, otherwise, it is very difficult to thoroughly water the plant without over-watering it. Although peace lilies (Spathiphyllum sp.) should be kept moist at all times, the leaves will wilt if the soil is too moist, especially if temperatures are too cold. This is likely the problem with your plant. Night temperatures should not drop lower than 65 degrees F. The leaves will also wilt if the soil is too dry, but they will spring back quickly when watered again.

The peace lily needs low to medium light. At no time should it be placed in direct sunlight, they prefer shade. Flowers are produced in 200 - 300 footcandles of light.

Feed the plant every 3 months or so using a weak solution of houseplant fertilizer, only if it is growing well. Never fertilize an unhealthy houseplant.

The solution to the problem is to remove the plant from its container and repot it in a container which has drainage holes. Give it fresh potting soil which is composed of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Keep this mix moist at all times. Remove any rotted roots before repotting the plant. The plant can be divided at this time (at anytime of the year) to propagate new plants. I hope your plant recovers.

Where to Plant Evergreens

My husband and I purchased two globe cedars in June of this year. We planted them on the west side of our house. I would like some clarification on when and how to prepare them for winter. We have had a very dry summer here. To prepare them for winter, I was watering them approx once every two weeks since purchase. I have watered them once thoroughly in mid September and then once a week starting in October. I have made shrub covers but have not yet covered the cedars. Could you give me any additional ideas on how much more I should be watering and when I should cover them. The temperature has been going below 0 degrees Celcius some nights but during the day we are getting temperatures anywhere from 0 to high teen figures. Thank you for any additional input.

As a rule, cedars should be located on the north or east side of buildings or other objects such as trees, where they are not directly exposed to the winter sun. Evergreens transpire moisture all the year round, so placing them where the sun can thaw out the leaves during warm spells in winter and early spring only accelerates desiccation (drying out) of the leaves. Because the ground is frozen in winter and early spring, the roots are unable to replace the moisture lost by the leaves, and the leaves turn brown. It depends on how badly the leaves have been desiccated as to whether the plant will bounce back during the growing season, or whether the plant will die. In other cases, only a portion of the leaves will be lost. Browning of the leaves is also accelerated if the trees are growing in an unsheltered area where they are to the cold prevailing winds.

To help evergreens such as cedars make it through the winter, the ground should be soaked with water until the soil reaches 'field capacity'. This means water should be applied to the soil until the soil is no longer able to absorb anymore water. Field capacity has been reached when the water remains on the surface of the soil for quite some time before finally soaking away. This final watering of the evergreen should be administered approximately two weeks before the ground remains frozen, which in zone 2 for example, is the 2nd or 3rd week of October.

Because cedars are shallow rooted plants, it is important to protect their roots from hard frosts which heave and crack the ground, thus exposing their roots to the killing frost. A 6 inch layer of organic material such as leaves, straw or peat moss applied to the soil around the plant will help alleviate this problem. At the same time, the layer of mulch will keep the soil at an even temperature and prevent it from drying out. If peat moss is used as a mulching material, a little dirt sprinkled over it and then lightly watered to form a crust over the pile will prevent the moss from blowing away.

To protect young evergreens from the winter sun and the desiccation of drying winter winds, tie burlap to stakes which have been pounded into the ground around the tree. The burlap should not touch the tree. In early spring, when warm spells occur, but before the ground thaws, it is wise to spray the leaves with water ocassionally to help counteract high evaporation.

Trimming Ponytail Plant Roots

I have a ponytail palm that is over 5 ft tall. I made the BAD mistake of putting it into a 17 in. square pot. The bulb is quite large and roots are coming to the top. I want to transplant it, but a round pot has to be huge to handle a 17 X 17 sq. I need to trim back some of the roots to make it round again. 26 inch pots are the largest I have found around here. Is it ok to trim the roots? Thank you!

Ponytail Palm

Yes, it is OK to prune the roots, in fact, root pruning should be a routine chore whenever a plant requires repotting. Root pruning is as important to a house plant as is pruning the limbs or branches when they require pruning. Proper root pruning enables one to repot the plant in the same size container for many years, thus avoiding the need for huge containers and eventually a shortage of room for them. In the art of bonsai, root pruning is a regular practice. The roots are not merely pruned to keep the plant small in size, but to keep it healthy and actively growing in the same size container for many, many years.

How Roots Function

If we understand how roots function, then it is easier to understand why we can and should periodically root prune a potted plant. Think of a single root as having two parts, and each one of those parts having a special function, in so far as carrying water and nutrients to the plant above the soil. One part is the tiny, fine, white feeder roots at the very end of each root. These tiny feeder roots are the only part of the root that actually absorb moisture and nutrients (their special function). The other part of the root is the long, thick, woody part. The function of this part of the root is to transport the water and nutrients (absorbed by the tiny feeder roots) to the plant above the soil.

In nature, out of doors, a plants roots grow and travel long distances in search of moisture and nutrients. Over time, a potted plants roots also grow very long, but it is not necessary for them to do so, because the grower supplies the needed water and nutrients directly to them. In a container, roots grow to the sides of the container, and then down to the drainage holes at the bottom of the container (ending up as a tangled mass of roots) where there is a greater supply of air near the drainage holes, but very few nutrients. As the roots grow longer and longer, the tiny feeder roots at the end of each root become further and further away from the plant. The water and nutrients absorbed by these tiny roots now has to traved great distances to reach the plant. So, in reality, the long, thick, woody part of the root becomes inefficient and merely takes up space in the container.

So, the goal of root pruning is to shorten the distance water and nutrients have to travel through the root system to the plant. The solution is to prune the roots and regenerate a fibrous, compact, untangled root system. Wherever one of the thick, woody roots is pruned (cut off), new feeder roots will grow from behind the cut and branch out in all directions, forming a dense, compact system of small feeder roots close to the plant.

How to Root Prune a Rootbound plant

When a plant is root pruned, the rootball should be disturbed as little as possible, so it is best to do the job when the soil is moist (not dry or soggy), as moist soil is less likely to fall apart. The first step is to remove the rootball from the container. If there is a mass of roots circling the bottom of the rootball, these roots can be sliced off with a sharp knife or scissors rather than trying to untangle each root. Slice them off where the root mass meets the soil, gently prying the mass of roots back as you cut so you can see where you are cutting.

The next step is to remove any other large roots you notice at the bottom of the rootball (above the sliced off portion) or at the sides of the rootball. These large roots should be traced back into the rootball and cut off where they branch off, or where smaller roots exist. For every large root that is cut back, it will eventually be replaced by smaller feeding roots.

To stimulate new root growth near the center of the rootball, cut out 2 or 3 inch deep V-shaped wedges at the edges of the rootball, from the top of the rootball down to the bottom of the rootball. Cut 4 or 5 wedges out of large rootballs and 2 or 3 wedges out of smaller ones. This procedure not only cuts through circling roots in the rootball, but it also gets rid of some old soil and roots.

The plant can now be returned to the same container. Place the same amount of fresh potting soil at the bottom of the container as was the thickness of the slice of roots that was removed from the bottom of the rootball. Put the plant back into the container, and fill in the V-shaped wedges with fresh potting soil, gently firming it with a stick as you add the soil. Dry soil will flow down easier and fill in the open pockets at the edges of the rootball a lot better than moist soil. The final step is to water the plant well, making sure the dry soil is thoroughly wetted.

After a plant has been root pruned, it has lost a lot of roots, so the plant will need some special care for awhile. Place the plant in a cool, humid room away from bright light, until it has time to develop those new roots. Misting the leaves ocassionally will help conserve water loss from the leaves. Do not water the plant again until the soil is nearly dry - constantly wet soil can cause the cut root ends to rot. Once new growth resumes, the plant may be returned to its original location.

If you feel unsure about this method of root pruning, try it on one of your not so favorite plants. When you see that plant respond and grow with added vigor, because it has so many feeder roots now feeding it, it probably won't be long before you root prune all of your houseplants.

Wintering Dahlia Tubers

Do I have to dig up my Dahlia tubers before winter? If so, when is a good time? Also, what about canna lillies?

Canna x generalis

If the ground freezes in your region, both the dahlias and canna must be dug up and stored overwinter. Dahlias should be dug up as soon as the first hard frost has killed the top growth, otherwise, further severe frost can damage the tubers. Cut the dead stems back to about one inch or so from the tuber. Cut cleanly across any broken part of the tuber with a sharp knife and dust the cut surface with fine sulphur to help prevent the tuber from rotting. The best temperature to store dahlia tubers is between 35 and 55 degrees F. If you do not have a frost-proof root cellar, store them anywhere that is frost proof. In a warm, dry air environment, wrap them in newspaper or cover them with vermiculite, peat moss or sand to help prevent them from shriveling. Check them occassionally in the winter to make sure they are not rotting or shriveling too much.

When you dig up the Cannas (as soon as the leaves have died down), leave as much dirt on the roots as possible. Store them at 45 to 50 degrees F. if possibe. Cover the roots with fine dry soil or sand. In mild climatic regions, cannas may be left in the ground and the soil mulched with several inches of straw, leaves or other material, just in case of a hard frost.

Hoya Bella Retailers

I would love to have a Hoya Bella Plant. Where can I buy one in the USA?

Hoya bella

Hoya bella and many other Hoya species are available at 'Kartuz Greenhouses'. They have an excellent web-site catalouge which lists the available hoya's, as well as many other plants. See below:

Kartuz Greenhouses, Sunset Island Exotics
1408 Sunset Drive
P.O. Box 790
VISTA, CA 92085-0790

Phone: (760) 941 - 3613
E- mail: MikeKartuz@aol.com
FAX: (760) 941 - 1123

Web-site: www.members.aol.com/kartuzexotics/hoya.htm

You can obtain the latest printed version of their catalog for $2.00 using the above address.

Alternanthera

I need to know about a flat of plants I purchased at a nursery auction. I have looked everywhere for this name of this plant. It had a small tag only saying "trailing ruby red - Alternatherea". It has purple hard leaves. I do not even know if it is an annual or perennial. Have you ever heard of this name or know anything about this plant?

Alternanthera versicolor

Alternanthera is the botanical name for a small group of dwarf, tender plants native to tropical America. 'Alternanthera' is derived from two latin words - (alternans) which means 'alternating', and (anthera) 'an anther', and refers to the fact that alternate anthers are sterile. 'Alternanthera' belongs to the Amarathus family 'Amaranthaceae'. These plants are sometimes also called 'Achyranthes' or 'Telanthera'.

'Alternanthera' is only hardy, or used as a perennial in zone 8 and south, so, where winters are cold, the plants are treated as annual bedding plants and are set out in the garden in spring after danger of frost has past. They grow well in almost any type of soil, but must have full sun. The plants are generally spaced 4 - 5 inches apart in the flower bed.

The short, dwarf plants with their colorful leaves are used extensively for carpet bedding, and also for edging flower beds. They adapt well to shearing, one of the main reasons they are used for carpet bedding (creating designs such as flags, clocks, etc.) and most often are maintained at heights of 4 to 6 inches.

Where winters are mild, Alternanthera can be propagated by division of mature plants in early autumn or spring. Where winters are cold, several plants are dug up and potted (in commercial potting soil) before frost arrives, and over-wintered in the home as houseplants. In early spring, softwood cuttings are taken from these plants and rooted to propagate new plants, or, the over-wintered plants can also be divided into smaller plants as a means of propagation. Cuttings root easily in moist sand at a temperature of 65 degrees F. if they are enclosed in a propagating case to keep them close.

Species include:

• 'A. amoena' - very small plants (about 4 inches tall) with green leaves blotched with red or orange
• 'A. bettzickiana' - medium sized plants about 6 inches tall with many variously colored varities of creamy yellow and red
• 'A. versicolor' - the tallest form about 12 inches tall with leaf colors of crimson, blood-red or copper

Peace Lily Aging

I recently brought a Peace Lily to the office and received many positive comments from my coworkers about how its presence had improved the atmosphere. Within a couple weeks of buying it, however, the pearly-white flowers have turned almost completely green. I rather liked the striking whiteness of the lilies themselves. What can I do to restore the whiteness in the flowers? Thanks!

There is nothing one can do to restore the white color of the peace lily flower. It is natural for the flower to turn green as it ages. Once the flower turns green in color, it should be to cut off the plant. Otherwise, the flower may produce a seed pod which consumes the plants energy. Seeds may be used to start new plants from those plants which are true species, but it may be several years before they flower, so dividing the plants roots in the spring is the best means of propagating new plants.

Boston Fern Growing Conditions

I have Boston Ferns surrounding my porches, 15 total spaced approximately 8' apart. I bought them in May this year. They were healthy and in 10" hanging pots. I transplanted them into 12" hanging pots in June. They have thrived all summer and are now huge, i.e. 3+' across with 2+' fronds. They are on northern and western porches. I created a water/misting system. They receive a 15 minute water/mist every morning around 2 a.m. My wife and I, along with finches (8 families have been born in them this year), humming birds and neighbors truly enjoy them.

The problem: They are far too large to bring into the house this winter. We live in Winder, GA. Winters here are not bitterly cold, but we will consistently have low temperatures in the mid-low 30's from Dec - March. The porches are covered but open air. The ferns hang partly under the porch and partly beyond the eave, approximately 5' off the ground. All the porches are 10' wide with 9' ceilings. Do you have a recommendation for outdoor winter care for these plants? We do not have a green house nor to date access to one. Thus, the porches need to be utilized. I look forward to your input.

Boston Fern - Nephrolepis exaltata

As Boston Ferns are tropical plants, the temperature must not drop below 55 degrees F., or problems will occur. So, if I owned those beautiful plants you described, I would surround the porch with a sheet of 6 mil poly (plastic) and heat it with a base board heater when necessary. A thermostatically controlled heater set near 55 or 60 degrees F. will prevent forgetting to turn the heater on or off.

A temporary greenhouse frame can be quickly constructed using 2 x 4's spaced at 30 or 36 inches apart. The wall does not have to be strainght up and down, but can be built in such a manner as to enclose the ferns. The plastic is than held in place using 1 1/2 inch wide lath nailed to the 2 x 4's with 1 1/4 inch nails spaced approximately 12 or 15 inches apart. Be sure the entire perimeter of plastic is nailed down so that the wind can not flap it about. The temporary greenhouse wall may be fastened to the porch (in some manner) so that it can be taken down easily once warm spring weather arrives. A second layer of 2 or 4 mil poly may be nailed to the inside of the 2 x 4 frame to create a dead air space which provides a good means of insulation, and yet allows the necessary lighting.

This is about the only recommendation I have at this time. I have used this type of greenhouse structure for many years for starting bedding plants. I hope this is the type of information you were seeking.

How, When to Relocate Rose of Sharon

I need to relocate 2 rose of sharon bushes. Is there a preferred time of season to do so, or can it be done at anytime with appropriate after care?

Rose of Sharon Hibiscus syriacus

The best time to plant or transplant any plant (shrubs, trees, perennials) is during their dormant season, unless the plant has been growing in a container such as one you would purchase at a nursery. A container grown plant will not lose any roots during the planting as it is merely taken out of the container and planted into the hole, so there is very little if any stress on the plant. A plant that is moved from the growing site (garden, field, lawn, for examples), however, will lose alot of roots when it is dug up. If the plant is fully leafed out at this time, it is unable to absorb the needed moisture and nutrient requirements for those leaves due to the loss of roots, and the plant will suffer from stress, most often resulting in death of the plant. Therefore, it is best to wait until the plant is dormant before transplanting it, at which time there is no stress on the plant. A dormant plant has completed producing and storing food (energy rich carbohydrates), and is prepared for the winter months ahead, and the followings years growing season.

Deciduous trees and shrubs are dormant in the autumn once they drop their leaves. Leaf drop of deciduous shrubs or trees can also be used as a guide for transplanting conifers (evergreens - spruce, pine. cedars, etc.) as well, as they are also usually dormant once the deciduous trees and shrubs lose their leaves.

Trees and shrubs that are planted as soon as they drop their leaves in the autumn can benefit greatly from early planting, in the fact that their roots will keep growing until the ground freezes (in regions where the ground does freeze). The tree or shrub usually does very well the following spring due to the somewhat already established root system.

Early spring, before the shrub or tree leaves out, is perhaps the best time to transplant a tree or shrub, as that plant will have a complete growing season to re-establish itself before the onset of winter. I have had close to 100% success with planting dormant trees or shrubs in either spring or autumn, so I find it hard to suggest which is best. Shallow rooted evergreens such as Cedars, however, have a much better chance of survival if they are planted in the spring.

The keys to success are in properly preparing the soil before planting (add organic material and bonemeal to the soil and mix it in thoroughly); do not let the roots dry out during the transplanting operation; water the plant in well after planting (to remove any air pockets in the soil near the roots), and keep the plant well watered until it is fully established.

Cut Back Double Mock Bush

We have a old double mock bush. It is old and very tall. Can I cut it back? If so how much so I do not kill the bush? Thanks for the advice on the blue spruce.

Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius)

I would not recommend cutting the Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) bush partially back as this will probably result in a bush with an ugly shape. It is best to rejuvenate the shrub by completely removing the stems at ground level over a period of two or three years, if the shrub is really overgrown. This major pruning job should be done in late winter (early spring) before the leaves emerge.

The first step is to prune out all of the dead stems, dead branches and any weak or spindly stems. Cut the dead stems and weak stems off at ground level.

In late winter before growth starts, cut about 1/3 or 1/2 of the oldest main stems off at ground level. Remove these stems in such a way as to keep the bush looking even. For example, do not cut all of those stems off on the same side of the shrub. New shoots will emerge from below or near ground level during the growing season. During the second late winter, remove another 1/3, or the remainder of the old stems by cutting them off at ground level. There will be a few flowers on the shrub from the new shoots produced the previous season, but do not expect alot of flowers until the 3rd growing season. Mock Orange produce flowers on wood from the previous growing season, not on the current years growth like roses or potentilla, for example.

Remove the final 1/3 of the old stems in the 3rd late winter, if you choose to remove only 1/3 of the stems each year, which in most cases is less hard on the shrub.

Once this operation is complete, Mock Orange are best left untouched, with the exception of removing any dead wood or thinning out a very crowded bush a little every 3 or 4 years by removing a few stems at ground level. The removal of a few of the older stems every 3 or 4 years keeps the shrub producing new healthy shoots. If a shrub is very crowded near the top, some of the smaller twiggy growth can be removed by cutting them back to a main stem.

There is one exception, the hybrids of the Lemoine Mock Orange will produce more flowers and stronger canes if they are cut back annually to healthy shoots as soon as they have finished blooming. This pruning forces the plant to produce new growth which produces more blossoms the following year. It is most important to do this pruning immediately after the shrub has finished blooming in order for the shrub to produce these shoots over the remainder of the growing season.

Of course, if a shrub is very, very old, it may simply be best to completely remove it by digging it out, properly preparing the soil, and planting a young, new healthy shrub.

Keeping Birds Away from Tomatoes

Whats the trick to keeping the birds from destroying my tomatoes as they turn red? Thanks a lot.

Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum)

Here are a few suggestions:

Try setting out containers of water so that the birds can have a drink, instead of trying to get juice from the tomatoes. This often works well with strawberries and other fruits also.

Sometimes, fine black thread stretched over the plants will work. The birds fly into the thread and frighten themselves.

Ornamental owls placed here and there in the garden often deter birds. The owls should be moved occasionally so that the birds do not get accustomed to them sitting in the same spot all the time. Aluminum pie plates suspended with a piece of string so that they flutter in the breeze sometimes works.

Supplying the birds with suet, sunflowers seeds, bread crumbs or any other bird feed helps if the birds are hungry. Salty foods should not be used. Even though birds are a nuisance when they eat our crops, they also consume a large amount of weed seeds and harmful insects which makes them beneficial to our gardens.

Chicken wire or nylon netting may be a last resort. Make a portable wooden frame, set it over the tomato plants and place the netting or wire over the frame.

Transplanting Methods

A few years ago a nursery planted an area, and it is going great. But I need to transplant and both Internet and the books use terminology and idioms that are not familiar to me - rhizomes, and the like.

If I carefully dig up a plant, and take as much of the root as I can using a scissors, then replant in a small foxhole bottomed with 10-10-10 or Hollytone, and dirt, then water daily for a while, is this pretty much the same, or am I missing something? Thanks.

Healthy Lawn

Rhizomes are specialized stems that run more or less horizontally underground. They are different from ordinary roots in that they have nodes and internodes. Above ground, nodes are found on a plants stems or branches where the leaves or buds are attached. The area between the nodes is called the internode. Below the ground, rhizomes have nodes and each node has a bud(s), whereas, ordinary roots do not have nodes, so they do not have buds. Ginger and Iris are examples of plants that have thick rhizomes, so the buds are very easy to see on them. Quack grass and many kinds of lawn grass (Kentucky Blue grass for example) spread by means of thin underground rhizomes. As they spread along under the soil, a new clump of grass springs up from each node, resulting in a beautiful, thick lawn.

So, what the internet and books are telling us, is that we can start a new plant from one little piece of the rhizome (underground stem) as long as it has at least one node or bud on it. Two or more buds per piece is best. (In much the same way we can start a potato plant from a piece of tuber with several eyes on it).

The plant can of course be propagated (starting new plants) by simply digging up a portion of the parent plant and dividing it into smaller pieces. Small plants that have developed from the nodes on the rhizomes which are located around the parent plant can also be dug up and transplanted to a new location. A lot of the tiny feeder roots will be cut off when the plants are dug up, so it is best to cut away excess foliage to compensate for root loss. Cut the stems back to a couple of inches from the soil, leaving a couple of leaves or buds on each stem. The fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed into the soil prior to planting. A high concentrate of fertilizer located directly beneath a plant can result in the 'salt effect' (burning of the roots). I have no idea what 'Hollytone' is, so I can not make any comments on this. Finally, it is much better to thoroughly soak the soil around the plants and then water again when needed, as opposed to watering everyday. The plant may not need water every day.

Good luck with your new plants.

Starting Plants from Cuttings

How do I get roots to grow on cut branches such as apple, forsythia and, magnolia? Thanks.

Forsythia

Apple tree cuttings from branches will seldom, if ever root. Apple tree species are started from seeds, and named varieties ( McIntosh or Delicious, for example ) are started on rootstocks by either budding (buds) or grafting (scions) them.

Magnolia and Forsythia cuttings can be taken at different times of the year, and if given the right environmental conditions, root readily. Both of these can be rooted from semi-ripe cuttings, softwood cuttings and greenwood cuttings. Forsythia can also be started from hardwood cuttings. Greenwood cuttings are slightly firmer and darker then softwood cuttings and are taken from the plant between late spring and early summer.

For complete information on how to take and make these cuttings, and how to root them, read the Butterfly Bush article from March 16, 2001. This is exactly the same way to propagate cuttings from Magnolia trees and Forsythia shrubs.

Forsythia can also be propagated by simple-layering in early spring or in autumn. It's very easily done. Just find a shoot or stem that bends easily (is pliable) at the edge of the shrub and bend it over so that the top 8 inches or so will lay flat on the soil. Pound a skinny stake into the soil at this spot and dig a 3 inch deep trench that slopes upwards away from the shrub. Bend the shoot over so that it lies in the trench with the top 3 or 4 inches of the tip running up along the stake. Hold the stem in the trench with a 'U' shaped piece of wire and tie the tip to the stake so it stays in an upright position. Fill the trench back in with soil and water it well. When you are done, it will look like a little 3 or 4 inch tree leaning up against a stake. Keep the soil moist and weed free all summer. The layered tip should be well rooted by the end of autumn, but don't be in a real hurry to dig it up as it takes almost a whole year for it to root well. When it is well-rooted and ready to move to its permanent location, sever or cut the stem that attaches it to the parent plant, dig it up and transplant it. Best of luck with your cuttings.

Mind Your Own Business!

Hi there... Have you ever heard of a plant called 'Mind Your Own Business'? I am trying to find the real name and also what it looks like as a friend has told me they had one when she was a child. We both wondered if they are still around . We have looked at the garden centre but not had any luck. Maybe you could help us... Thank you.

Soleirolia soleirolii

The name 'Mind Your Own Business' is a common name given to the houseplant Soleirolia soleirolii. Another more common name is 'Baby's Tears'. The plants botanical name was previously Helxine soleirolii. The Latin name commemorates Captain Joseph Francois Soleirol (1796 - 1863 ) who collected this plant and other plants from Corsica in the western Mediterranean region. The common name 'mind your own business' originates from the fact the plant is of the creeping nature and spreads rapidly, often where it is not wanted. It belongs to the family Urticaceae, the same family in which the 'Stinging Nettle' belongs, although there is nothing stingy about this plant.

The plant is a tender, mat-forming herbaceous perennial. It spreads rapidly by sending out large numbers of thin, pinkish thread-like stems, each covered with tiny, 1/5 inch long, bright green, roundish leaves. The minute flowers on the plant have no ornamental value. In zone 10 where the plant can be grown out of doors, (it cannot stand frost), it is often used to fill in cracks between paving stones and flagstones. It is very suited to growing on dry walls and in rockeries, although care must be given to where it is planted, as its rapidly spreading habit can be very invasive. The plant needs light shade and an evenly moist soil to succeed out doors.

In the home, the plant is simply beautiful, forming hummocks of rich, green foliage that cascade over the edges of the pot. Many mistake the plant for some type of moss. Soleirolia soleirolii 'Aurea' has beautiful golden colored leaves which looks like sunshine if the correct light shines on the plant. Two other cultivars include 'Argentea' which has silvery colored leaves, and 'Variegata' which has silver edges on the leaves.

Give the plant bright, indirect light for it to be at its best, but never sit it in scorching sunlight. It will also tolerate dappled shade to moderate shade.

Baby's Tears will grow nicely under normal household temperatures, with nights in the 55 - 65°F range and daytimes near 70 to 75°F. In winter, the temperature must not fall below 45°F.

The most critical part in taking care of the plant is to never let it dry out. The soil must be constantly moist or the fleshy stems and leaves are apt to collaspe and die. On the other hand, the plant will not stand overly wet, soggy soil either. Just moist. Humidity trays should be provided and the foliage should be misted frequently during hot, dry spells.

The plant can be fed every second or third week with a diluted solution of 10-10-10 water soluble fertilizer. Never fertilize the plant when it is dormant, over dry or after being freshly potted.

Propagation of the plant is very simple. All that is necessary is to tear off small rooted pieces of the plant and place them on top of moist compost in a pot. Use 4 or 5 inch pots to start new plants. A good potting soil consists of ordinary potting soil with about 1/3 more peat moss added, as well as some perlite for drainage and bonemeal to supply needed nutrients. ( 2 tablespoonfulls of bonemeal per gallon of soil ). The plants may be repotted in spring if necessary, but because they are so easy to propagate from little clumps of the plant, it is often best to keep some new plants coming. The old plants do not last forever, as they begin to look worn and tired. Once the new plant is well established, chuck the old one.