Creeping Phlox Fertilizer

My creeping phlox is in medium clay soil and doesn't seem to bloom very much. Is there a fertilizer or plant food that I can give it to make it grow better?

Is your phlox receiving enough sun, or is it growing in heavy shade? Have you properly prepared the soil before planting the phlox? Phlox needs a rich, well-drained, moist soil to grow well. The sub-layer of soil below the topsoil layer should be loosened up with a spade and have some coarse sand and peat moss added. Then, a 3 or 4 inch layer of organic matter such as well-rotted manure, peat moss or compost, as well as some coarse sand and bonemeal should be added to the topsoil and thoroughly worked in. Bonemeal is a good source of phosphorous and should be worked into the soil prior to planting so it is readily available to the plants roots.

This is important because phosphorous moves so slowly in the soil, unlike nitrogen and potassium.

In any case, the magic fertilizer for perennials is one such as 0-20-20, or any of those with a low nitrogen formula. Perennials that have too much nitrogen produce weak, succulent stems and large, over-grown leaves rather than flowers. The middle #20 - phosphorous, promotes strong roots, stems and blossoms as well as the rich color of the flowers and foliage. The second #20 is potassium - the nutrient that helps plants resist diseases and cold, among other functions. Of course, a plant must have some nitrogen in order to grow. A plant that lacks nitrogen will have stunted and spindly stems, small and erect leaves, pre-mature leafdrop and eventual chlorosis - the entire plant will probably appear a lighter green than normal.

I find it best to use a water soluble fertilizer when fertilizing the plants. The water carries the nutrients directly down to the roots where it is needed. Apply the fertilizer at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. There are cases where the soil may also lack micro-nutrients. A good fertilizer in this case is water soluble Miracle-Gro 15-30-15 which has several micro-nutrients (trace minerals) added to it.

I hope your phlox will out perform all others this year. Best of luck.

Propogate Clematis

What is the best way to propogate Clematis?

Clematis macropetala

Clematis can be propagated using several methods. The best method to use will depend on the species or kind that is being propagated. Seed is a good way to start new plants as long as it is only collected from a true species. Cultivars or named varieties will not come true from seed. Collect fresh, ripe seed and sow directly in the garden in autumn, or sow the seed in shallow pots filled with sandy soil in February in a cool greenhouse. To ensure even germination, the seed must go through a cold period known as stratification. This will occur naturally if the seeds are sown directly in the garden in autumn. Otherwise, store them at a temperature as close as possible to 39°F for approximately 3 months. After this cooling period, sow them in a moist media recommended for seeds and maintain them at a temperature near 70°F until they germinate. Be sure they have bright light so they will not become spindly. Once they are large enough to handle, transplant to 4 inch pots.

Most clematis species and their cultivars can be propagated easily from leaf-bud cuttings. Collect softwood cuttings from spring to mid-summer and semi-ripe cuttings from mid- to late summer (July or August) from the current seasons growth. Semi-ripe cuttings are not so demanding when it comes to providing a humid rooting environment. Soft-wood cuttings will dry out much quicker than semi-ripe cuttings, but both must not be allowed to dry out.

These cuttings are made from 2 inch long pieces of stem. To make the cuttings, cut on a slight angle directly above a node or joint (where the leaves emerge from the stem) being sure there is a strong, healthy bud in each leaf axil (the angle between the stem and the leaf petiole (leaf stem) of that cutting. Always use a sharp knife or pruners when taking cuttings. There will be two buds because the clematis has opposite leaves (one leaf grows directly opposite the other on the stem) and a new bud is formed in each of these leaf axils. It is important that these buds are strong and healthy and not damaged when the cutting is taken, otherwise, the cutting may fail to grow. The nest step is to cut the stem off about 2 inches below these leaves and buds. Roots will form anywhere along this stem. This is known as an internodal cutting because roots will form anywhere on the stem between the nodes or joints. A nodal cutting is used for plants that do not root readily along the stem. Nodal cuttings are made by cutting straight across the stem, directly under a node where roots will form more readily. Clematis species with large leaves should have the leaf on one side of the stem removed completely, and the remaining leaves on the opposite side should be cut in half with a sharp sciccors. This will reduce moisture loss of the cutting through transpiration. The cuttings can then be dipped in a gel or powder rooting hormone and inserted in a moist medium recommended for starting cuttings. Place the cuttings in bright light (not direct sun), provide a bottom heat of 55 - 60°F and place a clear plastic bag over the cuttings to keep them close (warm and humid). Once they are well rooted, they can be repotted in 4 inch pots, grown on, and then hardened off gradually and planted outside in their permanent location.

Clematis can also be propagated in the spring by simply dividing large plants. Each division or piece should be fairly well rooted. A few species can also be propagated by layering. This is done by choosing a healthy stem, making a slight cut on the underside of the stem near each node, laying the stem on the soil and burying the stem with soil. The stem is then pinned down to keep it in contact with the soil. The new plants are usually well rooted by the following year. Grafting clematis is probably best left to the experts.

Column Cactus Propagation

I have a 6 foot column cactus, it has grown two large arms & resembles a candalabra. The arms are much wider than the parent part. The cactus is arond 28 years old, it has never flowered. My dilemma this year is to propogate the arms of the cactus. Is there a method I should use? The reason for propogation is it is getting too tall for the conservatory, about half an inch from the roof to be exact. Also any suggestions on getting it to flower?

Columnar cactus

Columnar cacti are easy to propagate from stem cuttings, in most cases. The best time of the year to take stem cuttings is in early spring when the plant has completed dormancy. All that is necessary is to cut or slice the stem straight across, using a very sharp, clean knife. It is best to use gloves during the process. Cuttings can be 3 feet or more in lenght, but if it is a fast growing species it will soon outgrow its aloted space. A tall cutting will also require some type of support until it is well rooted. So, its probably best to root the top 12 inches or so. The parent plant can be left to grow as it is after the stem cuttings have been taken. Many species (like Echinopsis scopulicola for example) will send out new stems just below the area where the cutting has been taken. These in turn can be removed and used to propagate new plants.

The cuttings must then be placed in a dry, airy spot out of the sun to callous over before they are inserted in the media to root, otherwise they are likely to rot. It may take only a few days or up to 4 weeks for the cutting to callous over, depending on the drying conditions. The cutting is ready to root when the calloused bottom is dry, hard, and has more or less shrunken a bit.

Once the cutting has calloused, it is ready to insert in either straight sand, a mixture of gritty sand and peat, or a cacti and succulent mix prepared for rooting cuttings. Whatever media is used, it must be one that will drain freely. It is best to use a clay pot that is just large enough to accommodate the stem cutting for rooting purposes. The bottom of the cutting may be dusted with a rooting hormone powder, but this is not absolutely necessary. The stem cutting should be close to the top of the pot when it is set on the media so that only the bottom 1 inch of the cutting is covered with media. The top of the media dries fairly quickly which helps prevent the cutting from rotting. Place the potted cutting in a bright, airy location and keep the media just moist, never soggy wet. The air temperature should be maintained near 68 - 75°F. Bottom heat of 70°F will help speed the rooting process. Do not place the potted cutting in a plastic bag or the like.

Once the cutting is well rooted, as indicated by new growth at the tip of the cutting, it can be gently removed from the rooting media and repotted in a well-drained cactus soil. Hold back on watering the newly potted plant for about a week.

Another method used to root tall cactus stem cuttings is to place about 1 inch of cuctus and succulent soil at the bottom of a clay pot that is just large enough to accommodate the cutting. A 1/2 inch layer of fine gravel is placed over the soil and the cutting set on top of this gravel layer. Coarser gravel is then used to fill in the rest of the pot around the cutting. The coarse gravel holds the cutting up and prevents the cutting from getting too wet. The media is just kept moist. Treat the cutting while it is rooting as above.

Depending on the species, most cacti will root in 3 - 15 weeks. For those that do not form roots by the time autumn arrives (there is no sign of new growth at the top of the cutting), this cutting may take a year or longer to root. Keep the media dry during the winter months and only water sparingly if the cutting starts to shrivel.

Nearly all columnar, global, orcid cacti, Christmas cacti and Easter cacti can be propagated by using stem cuttings. Those with jointed leaves like the Easter cacti should be seperated from the plant directly at a joint (where one leaf joins or is attached to the next leaf).

It is very difficult to give suggestions on how to promote flowering of a cactus without knowing the species. Many cacti will simply not flower until they are very old. Others, especially the columnar types, will never flower in the home because the environmental conditions are not what the plant needs to initiate flower buds. For example, some species require low temperatures of 40°F during their winter dormancy period to trigger flower buds, while others must have high temperatures of 100°F during their active growing season to initiate flowering.

The first step in getting a cactus to bloom in the home is to choose one that will bloom readily in the home (Mammillaria sp, Rebutia sp, Epiphyllum sp., for examples). Most of the desert varieties must have strong sunlight during both the active growing season and dormant season. Many cacti will not bloom if they have not been growing vigorously enough during the growing season. Some will not bloom if the growing season has been to cool. Overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizer will prevent cacti from blooming. Phosphorous and potassium are both essential macro-nutrients required by cacti for the formation of flower buds. Good cacti fertilizers include types like 15-30-15 or 10-20-20, for example. Fertilizers used for feeding tomatoes work well on cacti if it is applied at 1/2 the recommended rate. Most cacti only require feeding once or twice in the spring and once in the summer while they are actively growing. Most globular or ball cacti must have a dry, cool winter rest period, or they will fail to bloom. The temperature should be maintained near 45 - 55°F and no water should be applied unless the plant shows signs of shrivelling. It's really a matter of knowing your cactus variety. Some will turn to mush if winter temperatures drop below 65°F, while others must never have their roots dry out completely. I always find it important to purchase a plant that has a name tag with the proper or botanical name with it. When in doubt about cultural requirements of that plant, it is then easy to research it.

Common Name Confusion

Now I'm a bit confused. While looking thru some other websites I came across several references to Devil's Backbone as Pedilanthus tithymaloides. Your reference is Kalanchoe daigremonthana. Are both correct?

Devil's Backbone (Kalanchoe daigremontiana)

Your confusion is well understood. This is basically the problem with common names. Many completely different plants have the same name. So, both are correct in that sense. If only the correct botanical names were used, there would really be no confusion, in the majority of cases. We would simply call the one plant a Kalanchoe daigremontiana and the other a Pedilanthus tithymaloides. We would then know exactly what plant we were referring to. The problem here is that most folks have a bit of difficulty in using these words in everyday language. If you are interested in reading a little bit about plant names, refer to the article Plant Names in the archives of Brian's Garden. As I believe you are looking for Kalanchoe daigremontiana, it is available by mail-order from this company:

ABBEY GARDEN Cacti & Succulents
P.O. Box 2249
La Habra, CA 90632
Phone: (562) 905-3520
FAX: (562) 905-3522.

Abbey Garden offers around 2000 different cacti and succulent varieties.

Wintering Arborvitaes

I planted 28 Arborvitaes in July of last year. They grew just a little bit, but then I noticed that they started turning brown along the bottom and near the trunk about mid-august. I had landscapers plant the trees. They put down topsoil and then added wood chip mulch over the top. We watered them faithfully until about October when it began to get very cold. I am concerned that we may lose the trees. There are lots of needles at the base of each tree. Should I do anything else? These trees were 5-6 feet tall and were purchased from a reputable nursery. Any information would be appreciated.

Arborvitae

First of all, it is often a mistake to place topsoil over the existing soil, unless both soils are exactly the same in structure and texture. Placing a soil with different texture or structure over another type of soil reduces the downward movement of water, in most cases. The result is a high water table which can seriously harm a plant. For example, if a sandy loam is put over a clay soil, the water will move down quickly through the sandy soil, but once it reaches the more impermeable clay soil, the gravitational movement of water is restricted. Because the downward movement of water is so much slower through the clay, a soggy layer or high water table can build up above the clay layer. Any roots in this area can die from a build up of toxic gases which are released from those roots as they respire and use up the available oxygen in the soil. Fresh oxygen has no way of entering a saturated soil because all the pore spaces in that soil are filled with water. When topsoil or organic matter are added to a soil, they should be thoroughly mixed into the existing soil and the sub-layer should be loosened or broken up with a spade before planting any type of plant.

Arborvitae will often fail after they are planted because roots fail to grow from the rootball. This can be a result of desiccation (drying out) of the rootball in hot weather while the plants are being moved to the site or while they are waiting to be transplanted at the site. The tiny feeder roots can perish very quickly in hot weather if the rootball is not kept moist and cool. This is more common with balled and burlapped trees, although plants in black plastic containers can also dry out quickly near the edges of the pots if not cared for properly while at the site. If the rootball has been allowed to dry out, the trees will often decline slowly and then die.

If the rootballs have been plunged directly into the planting holes without the roots first being spread apart properly, growth and development of new roots is restricted. The tree is then unable to absorb sufficient water and desiccation and death of leaf scales is imminent. Girdling of the roots can also result from improper planting. If the roots were growing in circles at the bottom of the rootball and were not spread out properly when they were planted, they will eventually strangle each other as they grow. Dead roots result in dead plants. Death from girdling roots usually happens over a period of a few years.

Severe browing of leaf scales can result from over fertilizing or planting the trees to deep. A high concentration of salts in the soil from chemical fertilizer will kill young feeder roots by drawing water away from the roots. A tree that is planted too deeply will suffer from a shortage of oxygen.

Because arborvitae are shallow rooted plants, it is wise to mulch the soils surface during hot, dry weather to conserve moisture and maintain an even soil temperature. It is however, unwise to use green or fresh materials for mulching shallow rooted plants. Micro-organisms in the soil will use up the available nitrogen in the soil during the process of decomposing the green matter. Once the material is completely decomposed, the nitrogen is then released and readily available to the plant. Only well-decomposed materials should be used for mulching purposes. Futhermore, wood chips can settle and form an air-tight layer which prevents oxygen from entering the soil. As previously mentioned, a lack of oxygen in the soil can cause arborvitae leaves to brown very quickly. Watering practices have to be adjusted accordingly when plants are heavily mulched. It is very easy to over-water a plant when it is mulched, especially if the soil has poor drainage. Arborvitaes do not tolerate wet feet and root death can result from a lack of oxygen. On the other hand, a shortage of water during hot, dry, windy periods will result in desiccation of the foliage. During hot, dry spells the arborvitae is highly susceptible to heavy mite infestations as well. The mites can cause severe yellowing and browning of the leaf scales as well as death to the trees if their numbers are high. These insects are very tiny and may go unoticed without careful observation. A hand- held magnifying glass is useful in detecting their presence.

Overall, it is not uncommon for trees of this size to lose some leaves during the establishment period. Their new location may not be sheltered as well from the drying winds as they were at the nursery, for example. Until the tree develops a good, healthy root system, it will undergo a period of stress. Lower branches and inside branches located near the trunk will often shed leaves due to lack of light. This is normal, especially with older specimens.

Winter months and early spring are usually very hard on arborvitae because the leaves continue to lose moisture. Warm spells are especially hard on the trees because the rate of evaporation increases, but the roots are unable to replace that moisture because of the still frozen ground. To protect young or newly planted trees from desiccating winds in the winter and early spring season, place burlap around them in October (but not touching them), especially on the southwest side where the sun can thaw the leaves and stems. During warm spells in early spring, the trees should be sprayed with water from a garden hose to counteract the high evaporation rate.

Fig Tree Growing Conditions

A few years ago my wife bought a potted fig tree for indoors. The tree has gone through 'cycles' of yellow leaves, dropping leaves, etc., to the point where it looks thin and sort of sickly. Any tips on how to care for an indoor fig tree? Sorry, I don't know the variety.

Fig tree (Ficus benjamina)

The Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina) and its cultivars are the most commonly grown Fig trees. A few cultivars of F. benjamina include: 'Golden King'; 'Golden Princess'; 'Hawaii'; 'Jacuqeline'; 'Wintergreen'; 'Natasha'; 'Nuda'; 'Starlight' and 'Variegata'. The Weeping Fig has gracefully arching slender branches with 2 - 4 inch-long pointed, shiny, leathery, dark green leaves. New leaves are very light green in color. Variegated forms have white or yellowish blotches on the green leaves. Both the branches and leaves contain a milky looking latex sap. The tree trunk is very smooth and lightly colored. Under humid conditions, and as the tree matures, branch-like aerial roots are produced. These grow downward and help support the tree as well as absorbing water. The variety Ficus benjamina exotica has a slight twist to the leaves which makes it even more attractive.

Other tree species with 2 - 4 inch long leaves include Ficus retusa (Indian Laurel) which has oval shaped leaves; F. rubiginosa (Rusty Fig) - so named because the leaves undersides are a brown color; F. religiosa (BoTree Fig) - has heart-shaped leaves, and F. triangularis, which has triangular shaped leaves. The species Ficus buxifolia has small, 1 inch long triangular leaves.

This genus also includes the well known large leafed species like Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant); Ficus lyrata (Fiddle Leaf Fig) and Ficus benghalensis (Bengal Fig or Banyan Tree), for examples. The trailing varieties of the Ficus genera are touchier in their environmental needs, but are also commonly grown houseplants. A few include Ficus radicans (trailing Fig); Ficus pumila (also F. repens) (Creeping Fig) and Ficus pumila minima (Creeping Fig) and their cultivars. The Mistletoe Fig (F. diversifolia) is a bushy type which produces small pea-shaped fruits and usually grows to a height of 3 feet.

To grow Ficus benjamina and the other small leafed species successfully, they should be placed in bright indirect light, such as an east window, or in front of a curtain-filtered south window. Although the plant will adapt to direct sunlight, a combination of very dry air and direct sun can lead to problems with spider mites. At least 400 foot candles of light should be provided for optimum health requirements. The tree will survive 150 - 200 foot candles of light.

The main cause of leaf drop is stress from over-watering or under-watering the plant. The media should be kept moist at all times. Dryness of the media followed by a sudden soaking will almost certainly result in yellowing of the leaves and leafdrop. The tree should be watered as soon as the media's surface approaches dryness. This can be determined by feeling the surface of the media or simply noticing the difference in color of the media. A wet or moist soil or media is dark colored, whereas, a dry surface is light colored. A soggy soil will also cause leafdrop, so it is important that the media be well-drained and the containers drainage holes always open and free of obstructions. Water at the top of the soil and continue to add water until excess water runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. Do not let the pot sit in the excess water.

Although the tree will tolerate night temperatures as low as 45°F, 65 - 68°F is ideal. Daytime temperatures should be maintained near 72 - 80°F. Warm or cold drafts must be avoided as they can also cause leafdrop. Misting the tree is beneficial for both health of the tree and prevention of spider mite infestations.

Ficus trees should be fertilized every 6 months. A balanced houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strenght is sufficient. 20-20-20 is an example. The tree is sensitive to high levels of salts in the soil, so avoid over-fertilizing the plant as this can lead to leafdrop. Yellowing leaf edges associated with lower leaf drop are signs that the plant requires feeding. Repotting is generally only required every 2 - 3 years. A good sign that the plant needs repotting is when the tree demands watering constantly. Move it to a one size larger pot and use any well-drained commercial pre-packaged potting soil. A pot-bound plant will also drop its leaves.

It is natural for fig trees to drop a few leaves as the seasons change. New leaves will grow at the tips of shoots to replace those that have fallen. A little annual pruning is required to maintain the trees shape and to thin out center branches so as to allow light to enter the center of the tree. The small stems or branches may be used to propagate new plants by simply inserting them in moist sand and keeping them close (warm and humid). The leaves should be washed ocassionally with a mild, warm soapy water and then rinsed with fresh water. Never use leaf shine products on any plants. Insects to watch for include spider mites, mealybug and scale insects.

Wisteria Growing Conditions

I have a pergola, and have 2 wisterias at either end. These have been planted for 2 years but don't seem to be going anywhere. Can you recommend anything that is fast growing that would help to cover the pergola quite quickly.

Wisteria

Wisteria is a rapid grower once it becomes established. The secret is to purchase plants that are pot-grown so there is no root disturbance when it is planted. Wisteria is considered by many as the most beautiful of all the flowereing vines. It needs full sun, an out of the wind location and prefers a rich, fertile, loamy, well-drained moist soil.

This is a list of other rapid growing vines that can be used to cover a pergola. Some of the following are only foliage plants with inconspicuous flowers. It depends on the species as to the hardiness of the plant. For example, not all Clematis species are hardy in zone 2.

Perennials	Botanical Name	Type	Zone
Virginia Creeper	Parthenocissus quinquefolia	foliage	2 - 9
English Ivy	Hedera helix	foliage	5 - 10
Chocolate Vine	Akebia quinata	flowers	4 - 10
Dutchman's Pipe	Aristolochia macrophylla	both	4 - 7
Dutchman's Pipe	A. durior	both	5 - 8
Silver Vine	Actinidia polygama	both	5 - 10
Porcelain Ampelopsis	Ampelopsis brevipedunculata	berries	5 - 10
American Bittersweet	Celastrus scandens	berries	3 - 9
Oriental Bittersweet	Celastrus orbiculatus	berries	5 - 9
Henry Honeysuckle	Lonicera henryi	flowers	5 - 10
Clematis	Clematis species	flowers	2 - 9

Annuals	Botanical Name	Type
Morning Glory	Ipomea tricolor	flowers
Cup and Saucer Vine	Cobaea scandens	flowers
Hyacinth Bean	Dolichos lablab	flowers
Scarlet runner Bean	Phaseolus coccineus	flowers
Potato Vine	Solanum jasminoides	flowers
Moon Flower	Ipomea alba	flowers

Where to Buy Devil's Backbone

I had a devil's backbone whose stems were shaped like spinal bones and it bloomed with little two horned red blooms. I would like to find another one. I left it in too cold of a place and it died. Could you help me? Thank you.

There are several plants named 'Devils Backbone', but I believe you are referring to Pedilanthus tithymaloides, which also goes by the names 'Redbird cactus', Slipper Flower' and 'Zig Zag Plant'.

The A.R.M. International Corp. Company offers this plant. Their address is:

6781 Pioneer Road
West Palm Beach, Fl 33413
Phone: 561 969-9600
E-mail: steve@arminternational.com

In Canada, the plant is available at this address: Pike Lake Greenhouses, 1980
Box 72, RR # 3
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
S7K 3J6
Phone: (306) 668-4706

Rose of Sharon Won't Bloom

I bought a house on Cape Cod that has a Rose of Sharon (I believe). This is so large that the previous owner has tied a rope around it to control it! It is located at the base of steps from a deck and a walkway. Right now I believe the size is at least 9 feet high by at least 5 feet wide. This had hundreds and hundreds of buds last summer but never came to a full bloom. perhaps because it is tied? This would be a spectacular sight if in full bloom. Any help you can offer?

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)

Although tying a shrub together is really not a good practice as it ruins the natural shape of the shrub, this should not have prevented the outside buds from opening. Needless to say, the inside part of the shrub would not be receiving adequate light. Eventually, the inner portion will be a mass of bare, leafless branches. The shrub was probably tied together so the occupants could use the steps. A little careful pruning each spring could have prevented the shrub from growing out of bounds and made tying unnecessary.

It is possible that the shrub produced more buds than its roots could feed. A plant this size with a large amount of flower buds must have adequate nutrients, especially phosphorous, and a constant supply of moisture at its roots. The shrub prefers a rich, well-drained soil with ample amounts of organic matter added. (Compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or peat moss).

The Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) does best in full sun, or only partial shade. If the shrub is growing in a heavily shaded area and not receiving enough sunlight, this would slow flower development. A cooler than normal growing season will also delay flowering of the plant. Another possibility is that the flowers rotted in the bud if conditions were abnormally wet during the bud stage. This is a fairly common trait of the plant. An infestation of sucking insects such as aphids can reduce flower production.

As mentioned above, tying the shrub ruins its natural upright, vase-like shape, although older specimens will eventually become arched if they are not pruned. Futhermore, it is almost impossible to prune out dead or diseased branches when a bush is tied together. The Rose of Sharon will produce many small flowers when it is left un-pruned. Although the shrub is of the type that should be left to grow naturally without heavy pruning, it is best to remove dead, diseased, crossing and crowded shoots and branches. The result is a more open shrub which allows light and air into the center of the bush, as well as the production of larger flowers. Occasionally an odd shrub will develop this open tendency without any pruning required.

The plant can be made to produce much larger (but fewer) flowers if each stem of the previous season's growth is cut back to two or three buds in early or mid spring. This is possible because the shrub produces its flower buds on the current season's growth. This type of pruning seems too drastic for most gardeners.

The Rose of Sharon will respond well to hard pruning. Options include: 1. untie the shrub and remove 1/5 to 1/4 of the old stems each spring (until all old stems are removed) by cutting them back to a few inches from the soil, and then thining all but the strongest new shoots each spring until a new bush is formed; 2. Shorten the overgrown branches and stems by pruning back to a bud and thining out crowded, dead and diseased branches and shoots; 3. Cut the whole shrub back to 3 or 4 inches from the ground and thin out all but a few of the strongest new shoots, or 4. Cut the whole bush back to the ground except for one nicely shaped stem, or cut if off at ground level and start with one new stem and train it as a single trunk tree.