Norfolk Island Pine

Common Name: Norfolk Island Pine; Australian Pine

Botanical Name: Araucaria heterophylla

Plant Family: Araucariaceae

Description: A beautiful conifer (evergreen) foliage plant with needlelike leaves. The horizontal branches grow from the stem in whorls (at the same node or same place on the stem) in tiers (usually equally spaced distances) from 3 to 6 inches apart. It is a slow growing plant (3 - 6 inches per year) with a mature height averaging 6 feet and mature width of about 4 feet. The drooping branch tips give the plant a very formal and graceful look. Araucaria heterophylla Gracillis has narrower leaves than the species, giving it an even more graceful look. This easy to grow houseplant is one of my favorites.

Light: This plant must have at least 150 foot candles of light to prevent long, droopy branches. Bright indirect light is best, near a west window with a light curtain, for example. Direct sunlight can harm the foliage.

Water: Keep the soil constantly moist, but do not over water it. Over watering can lead to loss of branches.

Temperature: The best temperature range is in the low 50 degrees F at night and around 70 degrees F during the daytime, however, anywhere between 65 and 75 degrees F is satisfactory.

Media: Norfolk Island Pine does very well in the same soil recommended for African violets which can be purchased at any garden center or most local shopping centers. Repotting is usually not necessary for two to three years.

Feeding: Every three to four months, less often if light conditions are low. Use an organic fertilizer or 20-20-20 synthetic fertilizer when required.

Propagation: Not easy to propagate. Purchasing sturdy, healthy plants from a florist or greenhouse is the best method of acquiring a new plant. Avoid buying spindly plants as they will not improve.

Dos and Don'ts: Do not place your Norfolk Island Pine where the branches can be continually brushed or rubbed against. Do remove yellowing needles as they occur. On old plants, it is common for some of the lower branches to die. Simply remove them at the stem with a pair of sharp pruning shears to keep the plant looking beautiful.

Bringing In Plants for the Winter

I have had rubber plant on my patio this summer, as well as a fancy leaf plant. How can I bring these in the house this fall - without worrying that maybe bugs are on them. Is there a particular spray I can use? Thanks for any assistance you may offer.

When we bring in any plant from the outside to the inside of our homes, we are always at risk of inviting in unwanted guests. These are the precautionary steps to take when in this situation.

First, wash the large leaves and stems of your rubber plant with warm, soapy water using a soft sponge. This will remove dust and other debris from the plants along with (if there are any) insects and egg deposits. As for the fancy leaf plant, washing it is also recommended. Another suggestion is if the plants are not too large, they can be placed in the shower and given a forceful spraying on both the upper and under sides of the leaves. Large plants may be sprayed outside with a garden hose to dislodge any hiding insects.

Wash the outside surface of your pots with a 4% solution of water and household bleach, being careful not to get any solution in the pot itself.

The next step is to carefully examine the leaves on top and underneath for signs of insect damage and insects themselves. The stems, nodes and joints should also be carefully examined as this is where insects like to hide. Use a magnifying glass to detect the presence of very tiny insects like spider mites or mealybugs.

If insects are present, and too many to be removed by hand picking, a pyrethrin spray is registered for rubber plants, as is Malathion. Pyrethrin is less toxic than Malathion. DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS MUST BE READ AND FOLLOWED CAREFULLY WHEN USING ANY PESTICIDE.

There are various insecticide powders that can be sprinkled and worked into the top layer of soil to kill soil insects. Local garden centers or plant shops should be able to provide these.

I cannot suggest a registered insecticide for the fancy leaf plant without knowing the name of the plant. Some chemicals will injure the plants foliage or kill the plant. Check the labels on insecticide containers for the names of houseplants they can be used on.

The final step is to isolate the plants you bring in from all your other houseplants for at least 3 - 6 weeks by keeping them in a separate room (if possible). Any insect problems should be noticeable by this time. If the plants are severely infested with insects, it may be wise to throw them out, pot and all, even though this is hard to do.

Fall is Bulb Planting Time

Now that September has arrived with her display of beautiful colors, it is time to think about early spring colors. This can be achieved by planting a variety of early spring flowering bulbs. We must not wait much longer in our zone, as the bulbs require several weeks to become established (take root) before the ground freezes. This is also the proper time to plant or transplant lily bulbs, other overcrowded bulbs and some of the herbaceous perennials.

Preparing the Site

The most important factor to remember when choosing a site for planting your bulbs is that it must have Good, Good Drainage. If you choose a site that has the melting snow water lingering around for two or three weeks, chances are your bulbs will die. Both heavy clay soil and sandy soil should be given ample amounts of organic matter like well-rotted manure, compost, or sphagnum peat moss and worked to a depth of at least 12 inches. Bulbs that must be planted deeply require at least 2-4 inches of good soil under their bases in order to establish a good root system. Bone meal or a bulb fertilizer with a higher percentage of phosphorous should be incorporated and thoroughly mixed with the soil. A couple of ounces of 13-26-0 per square yard is adequate if you are using chemical fertilizers. Phosphorous moves very slowly in the soil, so it must be placed where it is immediately available to the bulbs roots. After planting your bulbs, they should be thoroughly watered and kept moist to encourage good root development. Just before the ground freezes, they should once again be watered thoroughly.

Planning The Landscape

Flower Beds

Whether you decide to plant a few bulbs, or massed beds of bulbs, there is more to designing the landscape than just planting them. Flowering bulbs look much better planted in clumps or drifts as opposed to single plants or single rows. Try to plant them so one variety merges into the other to avoid a spotty look. Planting a few varieties is much more effective than planting many kinds close together. When planning beds, gentle curves are far more pleasing than straight lines. Spring flowering bulbs can be very beautiful by either blending them harmoniously or having them contrast sharply. The choice is yours.

To enjoy the spring bulbs, try to locate them where they can be seen from an inside window of the home. Bulbs with fragrant flowers should be located near sidewalks, driveways or an open window where there perfumes may be enjoyed. As with all plants, shorter varieties should be placed in front of taller varieties. Locate beds in front of shrub beds to produce a strikingly beautiful effect. Bulbs that do well in the shade are very much at home when naturalized amongst trees or woodlots. Bulbs with tiny flowers are much more dramatic when planted in great masses and(or) naturalized amongst shrubs or the lawn.

When growing spring flowering bulbs such as tulips or daffodils, you must remember that once they have completed blooming, there will be no flowers in these areas for the longest part of the growing season. For those who love to design different beds each year, with different varieties and colors, they simply dig up the beds and plant annuals. However, for the average gardener this is just too costly. There are other ways to hide the yellowing foliage of your bulbs as summer approaches. This foliage must not be removed as soon as the flowers fade as it is needed to produce food for the bulb to carry it through dormancy. Annuals may be planted over the bulbs as the foliage begins to fade or the bulbs may be planted amongst perennials which will fill in the bear spots as they grow and develop. Combining bulbs, annuals and perennials carefully in the same beds can give dramatic and beautiful results. With careful planning and a little imagination, you can create breathtaking beauty in your landscape with flowering bulbs.

Varieties and Planting Depths for Bulbs

Siberian squill (Scilla sibirica)

The following planting depths are recommended for good loam or sandy loam soils. If the soil is heavy clay, the bulbs should be planted less deeply. For example, tulips may be planted 8 inches deep in good loam soil, but should only be covered with 5-6 inches of soil in heavy clay. In very sandy soil, planting them an inch or two deeper is beneficial. The depth in which you plant your bulbs is determined by the size of the bulb. Large bulbs average 8 inches deep, whereas smaller bulbs average 3-4 inches deep.

In zone 2, the list of hardy spring flowering bulbs is limited. All bulbs should be mulched with 4-6 inches of grass clippings or clean straw as soon as the ground starts to freeze. Mulching gives the bulbs extra time to develop a good root system by preventing the ground from freezing as early as well as protecting them from our harsh winter conditions.

The first bulbs to show in our garden are the lovely little blue flowered Siberian squill (Scilla sibirica) and the Striped squill (Puschkinia libanitica), white with blue stripes. Scilla sibirica alba and Puschkinia libanotica alba have pure white flowers. Scilla sibirica taurica has bright blue flowers. This group averages 4-6 inches in height. Plant them 4 inches deep and space them 3-6 inches apart. These little fellows are extremely hardy and have been multiplying in our garden from the first bulbs I planted 24 years ago.

Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis)

The sweetly fragrant Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis) is an excellent bulb (known as pips) to use as a groundcover in moist, shady areas because, unlike most bulbs, the leaves remain green all summer. The pure white bell-shaped flowers grow along a stiff stem. This plant will spread very rapidly, so be cautious as to where it is planted. Its average height is 8 inches tall. Plant the pips 1-2 inches deep and space them 6-8 inches apart.

Tulipa tarda

Of the many kinds of tulips and tulip species, only a few prove hardy in zone 2. With proper care, Darwin and cottage tulips have done well in our garden , to the point of increasing in numbers each year. They come in a variety of colors and heights. Tulipa tarda and Tulipa kolpakowskiana are also hardy in our zone. The former has yellow and white flowers that grow on 2-3 inch long stems This tulip is an excellent choice for the rock garden because of its many flowers and shortness in height. Tulipa kolpakowskiana has yellow flowers, sometimes with a tinge of red or green on the outer petals, that arise on 10-14 inch long stems. This species is very attractive due to a slight waxy bloom of the leaves. For tulip lovers, there are many other kinds and species worth trying. Plant tulips 8-9 inches deep in our zone and space them 4-6 inches apart.

Marieke Daffodils

With good shelter, mulch and winter snow cover, daffodils (Narcissus) have done very well in our garden. They have multiplied to the point of overcrowding and required transplanting. The dwarf varieties which grow from 6-8 inches tall prove the hardiest. They come in yellows, whites and oranges. Daffodils should be planted 6-8 inches deep from the base to the top of the bulb and spaced 6-8 inches apart. Combining beds of yellow daffodils and blue flowered grape hyacinths is indeed breathtaking.

The grape hyacinth is not a true hyacinth as it belongs to the genus Muscari. The true hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) are unfortunately not hardy in our zone. I have tried them four times with failure each time. The dense spikes of grape hyacinth open in May and early June, showing off their nodding flowers on stems 6-8 inches tall. Two species that are hardy in our zone include Muscari armeniacum (often referred to as ‘Heavenly Blue’) and Muscari botryoides. There are also white and pink colored varieties of Muscari botryoides. Proper planting depth is 3 inches with spacing of 2-4 inches.

Ixiolirion

Another rare flowering bulb, Ixiolirion, produces lavender blue flowers on 12 inch stems. The leaves are very grass like in appearance. Proper planting depth is 4 inches with spacing of 3-4 inches between bulbs.

The yellow flowering Fritillaria pallidiflora and Fritillaria pudica are both hardy in our zone and produce their nodding flowers on stems 9 inches long on the former and a bit shorter on the latter species. Proper planting depth is 4 inches with spacing of 3-4 inches apart.

Purple Sensation Allium aflatunense

Flowering onions (Allium spp.) make a lovely addition to any garden. The following species have proven hardy in our garden. (Allium schoenoprasum) the common chive makes a nice flowering plant. Allium aflatunense ‘Purple Sensation’ (3 feet high), A. christophii (14 inches high) and A. giganteum (3-4 feet high) have beautiful purple toned flowers. Blue Globe onion (Allium azureum) grows 12 inches tall and produces a ball of deep blue flowers. Allium unifolium has very light blue to pinkish flowers on stems 18 inches tall. Ostrowsky onion (Allium ostrowskianum) has rose-pink flowers on 9 inch stems while Allium moly (Golden Garlic) produces golden colored flowers on 11 inch stems. Allium cowanii (Naples Onion) has fragrant white flowers on 1 foot high stems. There are many other hardy species to choose from. Plant large Allium bulbs 6 inches deep and 12-18 inches apart. Small Allium bulbs should be planted 3-4 inches deep with a spacing of 4-6 inches.

Crocus Anemone patens

As much as we may wish, the real Crocus (actually a corm, not a bulb) genus as we know them, are not hardy in our zone. The local plant everyone calls prairie crocus is definitely not a real crocus, but a member of the genus Anemone. Anemone patens is the correct botanical name for this plant. Bulbocodium vernum and Colchicum are related to the crocus and have crocus-like flowers. These two are generally hardy in our area. These should be planted 4 inches deep and spaced 2-6 inches apart.

There are other bulbs that may do well under good sheltered locations or near basement foundations, but as a rule they are not reliably hardy in zone 2.

Lily (Lillium spp.) bulbs should be planted or transplanted at this time of the year. This group of plants deserves a column of their own. However, to get on with early autumn planting of your bulbs, the proper depths for stem rooting types is 10 inches deep. This depth enables good root development on the underground stem parts. Basal rooting types (roots form at the base of the bulb) should be planted 6-8 inches deep.

Siberian iris Iris sibirica

Perennials that favor fall planting include peonies (Paeonia spp.) and Siberian iris (Iris sibirica and hybrids). Peonies should have at least 3-5 pink buds on their fleshy root divisions. The buds are covered with 2 inches of soil when planted. When planting Siberian iris, just barely cover the rhizome with soil.

On a final note, as soon as the leaves have dropped from deciduous trees and shrubs, they along with evergreens are dormant and may be transplanted. The roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. This new root growth gets the plant off to a better start in the spring. Water them thoroughly after transplanting and mulch them with a 4-6 inch layer of organic matter to prevent the soil from drying.

Creeping Phlox

I need to know if there is any information about or maybe where to obtain information on an outside garden plant by the name of Creapin flock. Any info at all would be helpful.

Creeping Phlox Phlox stolonifera

I would have to believe the outside garden plant you are referring to is creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera). As the Latin name suggests, this species spreads by underground stolons, forming large mats of foliage. Small cymes (many flowers) arise from the foliage in shades of either purple or violet colors. This plant makes an excellent ground cover because of it's mat-forming habit. This plant is also very suited to shady places.

Cultivars (cultivated varieties) of Phlox stolonifera include Phlox stolonifera 'Lavender Lady' which has large lavender blue flowers and P. stolonifera 'Blue Ridge' which has more erect stems and masses of large soft blue flowers.

Another neat mat forming phlox which spreads by creeping stems is Phlox adsurgens (periwinkle phlox). This species has slender shiny leaves with arching or dome-like clusters of rosy-white to salmon colored flowers. This phlox prefers cool, shaded conditions with an acidic (acid) soil.

Plant Names

When I first started writing my horticulture column's, a lot of folks asked me not to use those "Big" words (Latin) when naming plants. Many insisted that these words were intimidating and would discourage the average gardener from reading the column's. Hopefully, this is not the case. The following is an explanation of why I use Latin in my columns.

To begin with, common names are not universal. Different countries have different names for the same plant. We say corn in English, the French call corn mais, the Italian word for corn is granturco and the Yiddish word for corn is kukuruze. We would all have to know every language in the world in order for all of us to know we were talking about corn.

Another problem is that many plants share the same common name. Snow-on-the-mountain is a common name given to many different plants. This becomes a problem when ordering plants from a nursery or greenhouse, for example. You may receive completely different plants than you ordered, even though they have the same name(s) as the plants you ordered.

Sansevieria trifasciata

If you are into houseplants, you probably have noticed the same plant has many different names. Mother-in-law's-tongue, snakeplant, bowstring hemp and snakeskin plant are all the same plant. There would be no advantage in trading a friend a mother-in-law's-tongue for a snakeplant. This clearly shows another problem with common names.

Fortunately for us, a Swedish botanist named Linnaeus, figured out an orderly system of naming plants so there would be no confusion. This system is named binomial nomenclature. In this system, every different plant in the world has a two-word Latin name. These names are recognized universally because they are always in the same language which is Latin.

White Spruce (Picea glauca)

The first word in the name is always the genus. It means that this is a significant group of =plants. For examples, Acer (Maple) includes all the maples, Picea (Spruce) includes all spruce and Rosa (Rose) includes all the roses. The second word is the specific name or specific epithet. It means the plants are closely related, but distinctly different from each other. This name refers to the species. Using white spruce, black spruce and Colorado spruce as examples, the genus name remains the same, but the specific name changes because of the differences in these spruce trees. They are as follows: white spruce (Picea glauca); black spruce (Picea mariana); and Colorado spruce (Picea pungens). The specific name either describes something about the plant, tells where it originated or names the person who found it. In the above examples, glauca means glaucous and refers to the bluish white color of the leaves (needles), mariana means of Maryland, N. America and pungens means the leaves (needles) are sharp pointed.

When using Latin names, the genus and species must always be italicized, or underlined if typed or handwritten. The genus is always Capitalized and the specific name is always in small letters.

Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale Weber)

Although we do not use them in most cases, every Latin plant name also has the last name of the person who named the plant written after the genus and specific name. For example, Weber named the common dandelion, so correctly written it is Taraxacum officinale Weber. In most cases, these author's names are abbreviated. The cattail (Typha latifolia L) was named by Linnaeus.

Geranium (Geranium Ibericum)

When a group of plants growing wild in nature are almost identical, but have perhaps one or more distinct differences, they are called a variety. The differences could be leaf colour or fruit colour for example. The plant Geranium ibericum grows approximately 2 feet tall and has large violet flowers. There is another plant that is almost identical to the species (ibericum), except that it is taller (2.1/2 feet), has larger leaves and reddish veins on the violet flowers. This plant is named Geranium ibericum var. platypetalum. The variety name always follows the genus and specific name (species) as in the example above.

Peony (Paeonia lactiflora)

New plants have been developed for hundreds of years by crossing plants that are closely related, but have some different characteristics. The parent plants are genetically different. These plants or offspring are called hybrids. In a Latin name, this is indicated by the letter "x" following the genus and specific name, and then the name of the new hybrid plant. In this example using peonies, Paeonia x smouthii is the result of crossing the genetically different parent plants Paeonia lactiflora with P. tenuifolia. Notice that when listing more than one plant in the same genus (above), after the first genus name has been written out, the following may be indicated by using only the capital letter.

Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa)

Now and again you may have noticed the word cultivar in my horticultural column's. This variety of plant has been developed by man, or it could be found growing wild in nature, but what it means is that this particular variety is continually cultivated and reproduced by man. The word cultivar is derived from the words cultivated variety. Almost every genus of plants we know today has some new cultivars developed by man. In a plants Latin name, the cultivar's name is written in English, has 'single quotation marks' or is indicated by 'cv', and follows the genus and specific name. 'Goldfinger' and 'Abbotswood' are cultivars of Potentilla fruticosa. They may be correctly written as Potentilla fruticosa 'Goldfinger' or P. fruticosa cv Abbotswood.

Using Latin names when referring to plants is really not very difficult. Every person who has done any amount of gardening has probably used Latin names without realizing it. If they have ever said delphinium, zinnia, geranium, potentilla, caragana, clematis or chrysanthemum, for example, than they have used Latin names, because these are the Latin names for each of the above. The only difference may be in the pronunciation of the words.

An easy way to learn the Latin names for plants is to pick two trees or houseplants for example, look up the Latin name of each one, and then keep naming them in Latin until you know them. Move on to two more after learning the first two ;and so on. Here are a few easy ones to begin with: Acer ay-ser (Maple); Betula bet-ew-la (Birch); Juniperus yoo-ni-pe-rus (Juniper); Picea pi-kee-a (Spruce); Pinus pee-nus (Pine) and Populus po-pu-lus (Poplar). Have fun and good luck!