Peace Lily Care

I recently was given a peace lily. Could you give me instructions on how to care for it please? It is quite large already.

The Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum spp.), also known as Spathe flower, is a tropical evergreen, herbaceous plant belonging to the Arum family (Araceae). The shiny, dark green, long and narrow leaves curve downwards and emerge from the underground rhizomes, giving the plant a bushy appearance. There are many cultivars available on the market today, averaging from 8 inches high to 4 feet tall in height. If ideal conditions can be maintained, these low light flowering plants nearly stay in constant bloom. Generally though, flowering periods are in spring, summer and early fall. The fragrant white blossoms are produced on tall, erect flowerstalks that arise above the foliage. They consist of a spathe (one large bract) which partly encloses the white spadix (a sticklike structure which arises from the base of the spathe and contains the tiny true flowers).

Peace lilies must be grown in low to medium light conditions. At no time should they be placed in direct sunlight or the leaves will sunburn. 10 to 12 hours per day of 75-150 footcandles of light will keep the plant growing, with 200-300 footcandles required to produce flowers. In other words, semi-shade in summer and bright light (not direct sun) in winter. An east, west or shaded south window is best.

The potting media should be kept moist at all times. The plant will wilt if it is allowed to dry out, but recovers quickly once it is watered again. The leaves will also wilt if the media is kept too moist or wet. If the media is too moist or too dry for extended periods of time , the whole plant will become droopy and the leaves will turn yellow. When watering, soak the plant from the top of the pot until water runs out of the drainage holes, and then just allow the media's surface to approach dryness before soaking once again. Under colder conditions, watering must be monitored more carefully.

Misting your Peace lily every morning, surrounding the pot with moist peat moss, or placing the pot on a tray of pebbles with water (be sure the drainage holes are above the water) provides the humidity levels this plant needs. Extremely low humidity levels cause the leaf edges to turn brown, as does watering with water high in fluorides. Humidity levels for Peace lilies should be near 40-50 %.

Your Peace lily is a tropical plant. Provide it with warm temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees F. Do not let the temperature drop below 55 degrees F and do not place the plant where it is subjected to cold draughts.

Repotting should be done every year in the spring using a slightly larger flower pot each time. A good media consists of 2 parts peat moss or compost, 1 part potting soil, and 1 part perlite or sharp sand. (Refer to "Transplanting Your Seedlings" in BriansGarden for preparation of potting media). I mix one tablespoon of bonemeal in every gallon of potting media. After repotting, or propagating new plants in the spring by dividing the plants into smaller clumps (each division must have roots), give them less water until the roots have grown into the new soil.

Feeding or fertilizing is based on the needs of your plant. Plants growing under different environmental conditions require different fertilization regimens. If your Peace lily is underfed, the leaves will become patchy with yellow, ragged leaves. A general purpose water soluble houseplant fertilizer like 20-10-10 or 20-20-20 may be used when required. The plant may require fertilizing every 2 weeks during active growth or only every 2-3 months. Overfeeding any houseplant is far more damaging than underfeeding.

To keep your plant healthy and looking its best, wipe the leaves with a sponge using warm, soapy water every month or two. Putting it in the shower now and again reminds it of rainfall, cleans the leaves and makes it happy (use a gentle, tepid spray). The spadix part of the flower should be removed when it appears, or it may stain the plants leaves. Some folks are also allergic to the pollen grains. Once the flower turns brown or green in color, remove the flower stalk at the base of the plant. Also, remove any yellow leaves that may occur from time to time at the soil level.

Peace lilies are sometimes bothered by spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, thrips or whiteflies. A pyrethrin insecticide controls these insects. Stem canker, root rot, leafspot, mosaic virus and aerial blight are the main diseases of Peace lilies. Keeping your plant healthy and clean should prevent these problems. Fungicides that are registered for some of these diseases should be available at larger garden centers. Be sure to FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS when using pesticides.

Peace lilies make a lovely addition to any home or houseplant collection. The really undemanding cultural requirements and versatility of this plant makes it one of the best. Enjoy your new plant!

How Trees and Shrubs Avoid Freeze Stress

Something that has always amazed me is how trees and shrubs can survive minus 40 degree F (Celsius) or colder temperatures and still come through in the spring with a flush of green growth. 'Mother Nature' has such a well designed plan for everything, including the winter retirement of trees and shrubs.

Our native trees and shrubs, of course, are acclimatized and synchronized to our local, natural environment. They respond to day length (photoperiod) and temperature as to when they should go dormant and break dormancy. A tree from Florida or even Southern Ontario would not survive our climate in zone 2 because they simply are not synchronized with our local growing conditions or seasons. Plants growing within their natural range are governed by day length and temperature of that range.

This adaptation of a plant to a region or area has developed over the past thousands of years. So, even if we were to take the same species of tree that grows naturally in Northern Florida (zone 9) and our region (zone 2), the tree from Florida would not likely survive our much colder climate.

This is the direct result of the Florida tree not being able to synchronize itself to our early autumn conditions. The tree would not develop hardy dormant buds and plant tissue before the onset of sub-zero temperatures. The tree would die or die back due to the nature of freezing stress. Freezing or not freezing of a plant is determined by the location of ice formation within the plant. If the formation of ice occurs within a plant cell, that cell will inevitably die. This is why professional chefs tear lettuce apart as opposed to slicing it with a knife. When cut by a knife, the damaged lettuce cells will turn brown almost instantly. The lettuce leaves do not turn brown when they are torn apart because the plant tissue separates around the edges of the plant cells without damaging the delicate cell membranes.

Our hardened and dormant native species of trees and shrubs prepare themselves for sub-zero temperatures in one of two ways. These are either by freeze-induced cell dehydration or by supercooling cellular water below freezing temperatures.

Freeze Induced Cell Dehydration Freezing Tolerance

To avoid intracellular (inside the cell) ice formation, the largest part of our most hardy tree and shrub species rely on freeze-induced cell dehydration. These species permit ice to form outside of the cells between the cells. The water starts to freeze at temperatures just below 0 degrees Celsius (32 degrees F) forming ice just outside of the cells. Sugars and other organic molecules in the cell help prevent ice from forming in the cell as quickly as outside the cell in much the same way as salt in water slows salt water from freezing as quickly. In comparison to water, ice is dry, so the humidity outside of the cell is lower than humidity inside the cell. Water from inside the cell is then drawn out of the cell in vapour form in an attempt to equalize humidity levels between the outside and inside of the cell. The dry ice draws water from the cell much like a dry paper towel absorbs water. As the temperature continues to drop, water is continually drawn out of the cell and freezes onto the dry ice crystals outside of the cell until there is almost no free water left within the cells.

Many of our native species can withstand temperatures as low as -196 degrees C without suffering any damage. Formation of ice can occur in cells in these hardy plant species when chinooks raise temperatures above 0 degrees C, allowing water to re-enter the cell. A quick, sudden temperature drop of more than 2 degrees C per hour can result in intracellular ice formation because water may not be able to leave the cell fast enough. These cells will die resulting in injury or death to the tree or shrub.

Supercooling Of Water

In our more southerly native species of trees and shrubs, formation of ice in a cell is prevented by supercooling of water. This in itself is rather amazing. In order for an ice crystal to form, it must have a speck of dust or any microscopic impurity in the water to form that first ice crystal (know as the nucleus) at 0 degrees C. Once it has formed, other water molecules lock onto it causing rapid growth of ice crystals. When there is absolutely no impurities in water, water can be cooled to -38 degrees C. without freezing. This is known as supercooling of water. These tree and shrub species have absolutely pure water within their cells and avoid winter damage by super cooling of water. Needless to say, if the temperature should drop lower than -38 degrees C, ice formation will occur within the plant cells and they will die, resulting in frost damage or death of those plants.

Yellow Fungi in Soil

I have yellow furry fungi growing in a jade plant, philodendron, and coleus. It is in the soil. What should I do?

The yellow furry fungi growing on the potted plant soil is one of the estimated 250,000 species of Mycota. Identification of these fungi can only be made by microscopic examination of the spores or the lesions. These plant-like organisms lack chlorophyll (the green color of plants), but many contain bright pigments in their fruiting bodies (the reason for the yellow color in this case). The species growing in the flower pots is probably saprohytic, which means it is living (getting its energy) from dead organic matter in the soil (such as a piece of rotted wood, for example). This type of fungus does not live on living organisms and will not harm the houseplants. If it were parasitic, like powdery mildew or smut for example, then it would require living organic matter such as plants to derive its energy from, and could do harm to the plants.

The presence of this fungus in three of your potted plants would indicate your potting media (soil) is from the same source, or the fungus is reproducing and spreading from pot to pot by spores which are usually produced in tremendous numbers. The air is always full of spores, the reason bread gets mouldy when conditions are favorable for germination of the spores.

In a lot of cases, fungi, moulds, algae or moss growing on a soils surface indicates poor drainage of the potting media. A media's surface which always remains damp favors the growth and development of these organisms. If this is the case, repot the plants using a media which has good physical characteristics such as good drainage and aeration (porosity).

It may be possible that the potting soil was not pasteurized and the fungus came along with the soil. Be sure your new soil is pasteurized and do not contaminate it with any of the old soil. Sterilize your flower pots or purchase new ones before repotting the plants. A 4% solution of household bleach and water will kill most pathogens.

If the potting soil in which your plants are in now has good drainage, remove the fungus and as much of the surface soil as possible (without damaging too many roots) and replace it with new potting soil. If the fungus reappears, repotting your houseplants with new potting soil is the only solution. There is the option of hiding the fungus with pebbles placed on top of the soils surface. Lack of light and a dry soil surface may eventually kill the fungus, but this is unlikely.

One final suggestion is to visit a large, reliable garden center, greenhouse or florist shop and see if they can recommend a fungicide for this type of soil fungus. Most fungicides, however, are used for preventative measures as opposed to eradicants (killing the organisms). If a fungicide is used, FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS.

Pansy Fertilization

What is the best fertilization regimen for pansies?

The best fertilization regimen for pansies (as for all out of door plants) is to feed them when they require fertilizer. It is very difficult to give an exact fertilization regimen when there are so many factors influencing the growth of plants in the outside environment. For example, if the weather turns quite cold for a week or two, the pansies could stop growing altogether and not use any of the available soil nutrients in that period of time. Adding more fertilizer just because the regimen calls for it could do a lot more harm than good. A heavy rainfall, or forgetting to turn off a soaker hose could leach nutrients from the soil resulting in a shortage of nutrients long before the scheduled application date. If an extended period of very warm weather occurs, the addition of more fertilizer could lead to extended foliar stretching of the pansies, resulting in anything but beautiful, compact plants. Most annuals will put out foliage at the expense of flowers in a soil that is too rich or over-fertilized. This is why I suggest fertilizing them when they require it. Plants show us in various ways when they need fertilizing.

Healthy pansies should be short (6-7 inches), compact plants with rich green leaves and produce an abundance of flowers. As long as they appear healthy and vigorous, there is no need for additional fertilizing. Once plant growth slows down, or the leaves appear slightly paler in color and fewer flower buds are produced, then fertilizer should be applied. A slight shortage of fertilizer is far less damaging to a plant and the environment than over fertilizing.

To grow beautiful, compact, free blooming pansies, the soil should be well-drained and enriched with well-rotted manure or compost. Working 3 inches of either of these materials into the top 9 inches of soil will suffice. Bonemeal or rock phosphate should also be added at the rate specified on the containers label and thoroughly worked into the soil. If manure or compost are not available, peat moss should be added to supply the required amount of organic matter. It is the organic matter in a soil which prevents the soil from compacting, prevents leaching of nutrients and helps retain soil moisture. If peat moss is used, rather than compost or manure, the addition of fertilizer should be added and worked into the soil at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. Having a soil sample analyzed periodically leaves no guessing as to which nutrients are high or low in the soil. Once the soil is properly prepared, pansies generally do not require additional fertilizer until after the first flush of blooms.

To keep them blooming freely, they should receive ample sunlight (partial shade during the hottest part of the day is fine) and the soil should be kept constantly moist. A one or two inch layer of organic mulch over the soil is beneficial. Pansies must also be deadheaded (removing the spent flowers) on a regular basis to ensure the formation of new flower buds. Tall, lanky branches should also be trimmed back to encourage new lateral shoots which keeps the plants compact and improves flowering.

Once the pansies appear to slow down or have that 'hungry look', it is important to use a fertilizer that gives quick results, especially if the soil temperature is lower than 60 degrees F . Use a fertilizer which contains 50% of the nitrogen in nitrate form when soils are cold, rather than ammonia or urea types. The reason being bacteria must convert ammonia and urea nitrogen fertilizers into nitrates before plants can use them. In cold soil, the bacteria work very slowly at this process, resulting in a shortage of available nitrogen to the plants. A good choice for cold soils is to use formulations derived from calcium nitrate or potassium nitrate and apply these as a soil drench (mix the fertilizer with water following directions on the labels and soak the soil around the plants to a depth of 4-6 inches). This application should supply the necessary nutrients for approximately 2-3 weeks. If soil temperatures are warm (above 60 degrees F) in your area, ammonia or urea nitrogen formulation fertilizers are fine.

Furthermore, choose a fertilizer that is appropriate for your area. For example, in our area, the soil has a high percentage of potassium. I only use one application of 11-48-0 fertilizer six to seven weeks after setting out the plants. This one application keeps the plants compact and blooming freely until frost. The zero (0) in 11-48-0, indicates there is no potassium in this formulation (because our soil does not require additional amounts of potassium), but requires a fairly high percentage of phosphorus (48) and some nitrogen (11). If a soil were high in phosphorous, but low in potassium, then a formulation such as 15-2-20 should be used. If a soil is high in both phosphorous and potassium, but low in sulphur, then a fertilizer such as ammonium sulphate (21-0-0-24) should be used. In almost all cases, the addition of nitrogen is required in our soils. This is the reason I have not suggested any particular fertilizer formulation for your pansies. Without knowing your soil, it would be unwise to recommend a fertilizer. Information on soil in your area can be obtained from a local agricultural agency.

I feel the best advice is to set up a fertilization regimen for your pansies based on your local weather conditions, local soil requirements in terms of both macro and micro-nutrients, soil pH (pansies prefer a pH of 5.5-5.8), and observations based on the vigor and performance of the plants themselves.

Non-toxic Houseplants

We have a cat, who likes to eat things. Could you recommend a list of non-toxic houseplants?

My first suggestion would be to grow some plants that your cat can eat. This may help keep him(her) away from the houseplants you do not want nibbled on. Perhaps you have noticed a cat eating lawn grass at some time or another. The reason they do this is to help rid themselves of hair (hairballs) which collect in their digestive tract while they are grooming themselves.

Some of the best and easiest plants to grow for this purpose are oats, wheat and barley. These cereal grains are softer than regular grass and easier on the cats tummy. Placing three or four of these thickly seeded potted plants on the floor here and there may keep your pet away from your houseplants. It is wise to let the plants grow and become turf or lawn-like before setting them on the floor for your pet, otherwise, they may find the soil an interesting place to dig and scratch in. Most pet shops refer to these as oat grass, wheat grass, and barley grass.

Another plant which most cats simply can not resist is catnip or catmint (Nepeta cataria). This plant belongs to the mint family Labiatae. It may be used as a potted plant, or, dried leaves of the plant may be placed in small pouches and placed around the home. The plants oil excites cats and they may amuse themselves for hours by rolling in, rubbing or eating this aromatic plant.

As I am not a plant toxicologist, I can only recommend plants from sources that claim the plants are non-poisonous to cats. Although there are discrepancies with some houseplants as to whether they are toxic or non-toxic, the following list of houseplants has all sources I've referred to agreeing they are non-toxic. They are considered non-toxic only because there has been no reported cases of the plant having systemic effects on animals or having intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract. Some of the following houseplants may cause vomiting, diarrhea or depression to pets, but these symptoms are generally common and mild as when pets ingest yard grass, for example. On a final note, a plant may effect one pet, but not another. This holds true with humans, some people may be allergic to bananas or tomatoes, for examples, while the majority of people can eat these fruits without ill effects. Houseplants Considered Non-Toxic to Cats

The common names will be given, followed by the botanical name. Botanical names are far more reliable when purchasing plants because many different plants have the same common names. Spider plant, Ribbon plant, Airplane plant (Chlorophytum comosum) and other cultivars including 'Variegatum' and 'Vittatum'. Several years ago our cat ate the tips off of some young plants we had potted up. He is several years older and doing fine.

Swedish ivy (Plectranthus australis): This plant belongs to the same family as catnip, the mint family. It is considered that all plants in the mint family are non-toxic. These plants are recognized by their 4-sided or square stems and opposite leaves. Coleus (Coleus) is another member of the mint family and comes in a great assortment of leaf colors, shapes and configurations. A collection of 20 or more plants could be grown without having one plant look the same.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) makes a nice potted plant and, of course, can be eaten by all members of the home as well as many of the other common herbs.

African violets (Saintpaulia) and other members of the family Gesneriaceae including Flame violets (Episcia); Gloxinia (Sinningia); Lipstick Vine (Aeschynanthus) and Gold-Fish plant (Columnea gloriosa and C. banksii).

The Prayer plant (Maranta spp.) and Rattlesnake plant (Calathea insignis) have beautiful markings on their leaves.

Grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia) and other varieties of Cissus make nice trailing houseplants.

Others include: Boston Fern (Nephrolepis spp.); Wandering jew (Zebrina or Tradescantia spp.); Burro's Tail (Sedum morganianum) and Wax plant (Hoya carnosa and varieties).

Oramental Grasses

I am interested in growing more ornamental grasses and am wondering what might grow well in this climate. I had good success with a type of fountain grass and also grew a pampas grass that didn't bloom. I had the fountain grasses in planters and transplanted them to the backyard late in the fall, so I'm not sure they will survive.

I do not wish to be the bearer of bad news, but unfortunately, neither Fountain Grass (Pennisetum spp.), nor Pampas Grass (Cortaderia) are hardy on the prairies. They are, however, very easy to propagate (start) from seed sown in March or April and are thus treated as an annual in our region. The most likely reason your Pampas Grass failed to bloom is that it originates in S. America and requires a fairly long growing season to produce those huge plume-like inflorescences (flower spikes). The good news is there are many other kinds of grasses to choose from that are completely hardy on the prairies. Many of these perennial grasses are our own native species (grow in Saskatchewan) and are extremely hardy and as beautiful as the introduced species (grasses from other countries). In addition to these, annual grasses, sedges, and perennials with grass-like foliage can be chosen to beautify the yard or garden. Sedges resemble grass, but they are different in that their stems are 3-sided or triangular. The following list will provide information on some of the more popular species.

Hardy Perennial Grasses

Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea var. picta): Ribbon Grass is a very hardy and invasive perennial grass which forms open, upright clumps. One must be sure to keep it in bounds by either growing it in a buried container or growing it between a sidewalk and house foundation, for example. Its beautifully striped white and green leaves average 6-12 inches long. With the insignificant flower spikes, the plant reaches a height of 2-4 feet. Ribbon Grass can be grown in full sun or partial shade in any well-drained garden soil. It spreads by underground rhizomes, forming thick patches in a very short time. Propagation (starting new plants) is by division (dividing the large clumps into small pieces). If the grass appears shabby in July or late summer, it may be mowed to improve its appearance.

Blue Lyme Grass (Elymus arenarius): This is another very hardy, invasive grass that must be contained if used in the perennial garden. It is a loose clumping form with broad, arching, blue-grey grass blades. The attractive flower spikes are either blue or beige in color. Plant height is 2 feet. Give this grass full sun and a well-drained sandy type of soil. This grass also spreads by underground rhizomes. Propagation is by division.

'Skinner's Golden BromeGrass' (Bromus inermis 'Skinner's Golden'): This 2 foot tall graceful, arching grass is very pretty with its bright yellow and green variegated leaves. It is also very hardy and invasive, spreading by underground rhizomes and requiring confinement. A mowing in mid-summer will improve its appearance. It does well in any type of garden soil in full sun. The odd stem may revert back to green and should be removed along with the roots. Propagation is by division. Another selection of Bromus inermis is 'Gay Bouquet'. It has pink and green variegated leaves. Cultural requirements are the same as 'Skinners Golden'.

Blue Fescue or Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina var. glauca): This is an evergreen type of grass which retains its color the year around. It forms 6-12 inch high tufted mounds of thin, wiry, bright blue needle-like grass blades. This very pretty grass is non-invasive. The flower spikes are green to golden in color and should be removed from the plant as they appear. Blue Fescue does well in any well-drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. It is propagated by dividing the clumps every 3-4 years. Due to seed differences, color may vary from clump to clump. Choose only the very blue clumps to propagate new plants. Other cultivars include 'Skinner's Blue' which is generally longer lived and produces bright golden flower spikes (very attractive), 'Sea Urchin' with metallic blue foliage, averaging only 6 inches in height and 'Elijah Blue' which retains its color well throughout the year.

Tuberous Oatgrass (Arrhenatherum elatius 'Bulbosum Variegatum'): This 1 foot high tuberous rooted grass has variegated bluish-green and white leaves with inconspicuous (hardly noticeable) flowers. It does well in ordinary, well drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. It may require a mowing if it becomes untidy in July. It may become invasive and require confinement. Propagation is by division.

'Haense Herms' Red Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum 'Haense Herms'): An upright, arching form reaching 4 ft. high with a width of 3 feet. Leaves are variegated, purple and green. The flower panicles grow 16 inches in length and are purple-brown in color. This grass is non-invasive and likes any well-drained soil in full sun.

Tall Switch Grass (Panicum viragatum 'Strictum'): Another non-invasive ornamental grass with dark green foliage that forms upright, arching clumps. It reaches heights of 5-6 feet with a width of 4 ft. The purple-brown colored open panicles (flower heads) are approximately 2.5 in. wide and l6 in. long. Give it full sun and any well-drained garden soil.

'Heavy Metal' Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum 'Heavy Metal'): This slightly invasive grass forms erect clumps of foliage approximately 4 ft. high. The clumps average 4 ft. wide. The dark green leaves are striped with purple. The purple-brown colored panicles are 10 in. long and 4 in. wide. It prefers full sun and a well-drained soil.

Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens): A non-invasive upright clump forming grass with blue-green to blue-grey colored leaves. Approximate height is 3 ft. and width 4ft. This grass blooms in early summer with panicles of tan colored flowers. It is recommended that the foliage be left on the plant over winter and then the stems cut back only halfway in the spring, otherwise, the plant is set back and looses its vigor. It grows well in full sun in a rich, organic soil that is well drained.

Hervier's Fescue (Festuca hervierri): non-invasive, blue-green leaves, 1.5 feet high, forms upright spiky clumps. Likes a well-drained garden soil in full sun. Other slightly less hardy kinds include: Feathertop (Calamagrostis epigejos); Ravenna Grass (Saccharum ravennae); Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Stricta'); Gold Beard Grass (Chrysopogon gryllus); Lerman's Fescue (Festuca lemanii); 'Bronze Veil' Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia caespitosa 'Bronze Veil'); Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis arundinacea 'Karl Foester'), and 'Skyracer' Tall Purple Moor Grass (Molinia caerulea arundinacea 'Skyracer').

Native Perennial Grasses

Tufted Hair Grass (Descampsia caespitosa): A dense clumping form reaching heights of 2-3 feet with large panicles of tan to purple colored flowers. Easy to propagate by division or seed. Tufted hair grass prefers a moist soil in full sun or partial shade.

Little Blue Stem (Schizachrium scoparium): This blue-green to purple colored grass forms clumps approx. 16-20 inches high. Winter foliage color is a bronzy-red. The flower heads are silvery in color. Plant in any ordinary garden soil in full sun. Propagate by division or seed.

Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans): A wide leafed grass with reddish stalks averaging 4 feet in height. The attractive plume-like flower heads are bronze colored. This grass prefers full sun and ordinary garden soil.

Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum): This slightly invasive tall growing native species can reach heights of 5 feet. The upright, narrow clumps are more attractive in the fall when the foliage turns golden-orange. It produces large, brown flowered panicles. The soil must be well drained, rich in organic matter and kept moist. Switch grass likes full sun or partial shade and is propagated by seed or division.

Big Blue Stem (Andropogon gerardii): Given a well-drained soil and full sun, this tall species may reach heights of 5 feet. The blue-green foliage forms upright clumps that turn to copper red in autumn. The flowers are reddish-purple in color. Propagate by division or seed.

Common Reed Grass (Phragmites communis): This grass is suited for the gardener who likes growing water plants. It can become invasive so caution must be exercised if it is to be located in a natural pond. The wide (1.1/2 in.) flat green leaves grow on stems that can reach 8-13 feet tall. Definitely a background plant. The large flower panicles are purple in color as they emerge, later changing to light yellow or straw color as fall approaches.

Sedges

Palm Sedge (Carex muskingumensis): This 2 foot high sedge resembles a palm because its yellow-green leaves grow at right angles to the stem. It has a very dense, arching form of growth. The soil must be high in organic matter and kept evenly moist for this plant to succeed. It does well in full sun or partial shade. Propagation is by seed or division.

Blue Sedge (Carex glauca): This interesting sedge grows approx. 2 ft. high and 2-3 feet wide. It's green to blue-green foliage is very dense and arching. Provide a moist, rich organic soil with full sun for good growth.

Annual Grasses

Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum): This beautiful perennial grass is native to Africa and must be treated as an annual in our colder climate. Its average height is approximately 3 feet. The pink or purple flower heads are produced on separate stems. This grass requires a deep loam soil and full sun to be at its best. Propagation is by seed. Two other cultivars of Pennisetum include: 'Rubrum' which has rose colored spikes and foliage and 'Cupreum' with copper-toned flower spikes and reddish foliage.

Natal Grass or Ruby Grass (Tricholaena rosea): This is another perennial grass from Africa that we treat as an annual grass on the prairies. It produces beautiful silky flowers on spikes that are pyramidal in shape. The flowers vary in color from dark red to purple as they mature. The plant grows 3-4 feet tall. The soil should be well-drained and light in texture for best results. Ruby grass does best in full sun. Propagation is by seed sown directly in the garden in spring.

Large Quaking Grass (Briza maxima) or Little Quaking Grass (Briza minor, B. minima, B. gracilis): These two have always been my favorite annual grasses. The flower heads resemble arrowheads that tremble in the slightest breeze. Large Quaking grass produces 1 inch long seed heads on stems 18-24 inches tall while Little Quaking grass produces heads that are much smaller, 1/8 - ¼ inch long on 9-12 inch tall stems. The seed colors include reddish brown, silvery red and purple green. This grass prefers drier soil and full sun. Propagate by seed.

Canary Grass (Phalaris canariensis): An easy to grow annual grass with l1/2 inch long variegated flower spikes. Many farmers grow it locally for bird seed. The plant averages 2-5 feet in height. This grass grows well in any garden soil, but it must have full sun to produce the flower spikes. Propagation is by seed sown directly in the garden in spring.

Hare's tail Grass (Lagurus ovatus): This 12-24 inch tall grass got its name from the wooly tuft of seeds (that average 2 inches in size) at the end of each slender stem. The leaves are very hairy and narrow. Grow in full sun on light, well-drained soil. Plants are started from seed sown in the garden in early spring.

Grass like Perennials

Blue-Eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium montanum Greene): This little 3-12 inch high flowering perennial truly resembles grass. The 1/8 inch wide leaves are grass-like, bright green and very narrow. The ¼ inch in diameter flowers are bright blue and star shaped. It grows well in moist, sandy soil in full sun. A very pretty native species.

Virginia Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana): This perennial flower has grassy foliage and blue, red or purple flowers. It grows 18-24 inches tall. It needs a rich, moist, well-drained organic soil in full sun or partial shade. Propagation is by division every 3-4 years, seed, or cuttings taken in summer.

Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.): The daylilies grass-like foliage remains attractive throughout the growing season. Depending on the variety, heights vary from 18 inches to 4 feet. Flower colors include yellow to orange, pink, mahogany, and red. They thrive in any garden soil in full sun or partial shade and are almost completely pest free. Propagate by division in spring.