Garden friends!

The ladybird or ladybug beetle (Coccinella septempunctata) is a very welcomed visitor in the garden or in this case, the home.  Both the adults and larvae feed on soft bodied insects that harm our plants.  A few of these destructive pests include aphids, scale insects and mealybugs. Pesticides are deadly to these beneficial insects!

Rooting Hoyas

Just wondering how sensitive the roots are of a hoya. A stick/ stand thinger was put in my pot and some of the roots were ripped- is this bad?? Also where mine is sitting there is a fair amount of cold that comes in - should I be moving it to a warmer area? Some of the leaves are yellowing.....

If only a few roots were ripped, it should not harm the plant. New roots will form near the ends of the broken off roots. Let the soil become moderately dry before watering the plant thoroughly when watering. Hoya plants will do fine with night temperatures in the 60's and daytime temperatures ten degrees or so warmer. So, if the temperature is lower than 60 degrees, you should move the plant to a warmer location.

Web Garden Guide linked me!

I got an email from WebGardenGuide.com, and they linked to my site! Check them out!

Pickle Cactus

Common Name: Pickle Cactus

Botanical Name: Delosperma pruinosum, or D. echinatum

Plant Family: Mesembryanthemaceae

The 'Pickle Cactus', Delosperma pruinosum is not a true cactus as the common name suggests, but rather a succulent plant. The common name is due to the fact the fat, juicy, light-green, ovate-hemispherical shaped leaves are covered with bristly papillae (soft pimplelike or nipplelike lumps) which give them the appearance of a pickle or cucumber. The species name pruinosum means 'hoary' or 'frost like' in appearance. The plant is dense, bushy, many branched and of trailing or cascading habit. The solitary (one per stem, rather than in a cluster) insignificant flowers are yellow or creamy-white in color. There is some confusion as to which family the pickle cactus actually belongs to. Some botanists list it under the Mesembryanthemaceae family, others place it under the Aizoaceae family. Its place of origin is Cape Province, South Africa.

CULTURE

These are not difficult plants to care for if we remember they are succulent plants and can go for months without water. Over-watering is generally the main cause of plant death. So, knowing this, it would be wise to use a clay pot rather than a plastic pot for potting up the plant. As for all succulents, using a shallow container is much beter than using a deep one, and of course, the containers must have good drainage holes.

The medium (soil) must be one that drains well - it must be porous or have lots of air spaces in it. Commercial potting soils prepared for cacti and succulents may be used, or, one can be made up using one part sandy soil, one part peat, one part coarse sand and one part of either small gravel with stones at least 1/8 inch in diameter or perlite. A rich soil is not recommended because too much food, and water for that matter, can cause the plant to become overgrown and distorted. The plant should only be fertilized if new growth appears smaller than normal. Feed the plant once or twice a year during its active growing period using a dilute cactus formulated fertilizer such as 'Sudbury Cactus Juice 1-7-6' or 'SCHULTZ Cactus Plus 2-7-7', being sure to follow directions on the containers lables. Remember that under-feeding a plant is far less harmful to the plant than over-feeding it.

The 'Pickle Cactus' needs a bright, sunny, south windowsill. Without adequate light the stems will become elongated and misshapen. During the hottest part of summer, the plant may need to be moved back a bit from the windowpane if it is too close, to prevent scorching of the leaves.

Temperature is an important factor in growing a perfect specimen. The plant can tolerate high temperatures (70 - 90°F) during the summer months, but should be given cool winter temperatures of 40-55°F during its dormant period. Fresh air should be provided to the plant whenever possible - opening a window in the summer, for example. The plant will thrive in rooms with very low humidity. This is not to say the plant should not be given a good shower now and again, to remove any dust and debris or pesky insect that it may collect. Use clean tepid water to wash and refresh the plant.

During the active growing period, water the plant when the soils surface becomes dry. During the plants dormancy (resting period), allow the soil to dry before watering the plant. With the cool temperatures during the resting period, the plant may only need to be watered once every month or two.

New plants can be propagated (started) from tip cuttings taken in late spring or summer. The cut surface should be allowed to callous over before the cutting is inserted in a well-drained rooting medium. This is done by placing the cutting(s) in a warm, dry location out of direct sun, for a few days. The larger the cutting, the longer it will take to callous over (become dry and thicken over with a hard crust), as much as two or three weeks. The rooting medium should be kept just barely moist and the container should not be covered with polythene or glass. If the medium can be kept close to 70°F, the cutting(s) will root much quicker.

Transporting Ficus

I am moving to Tulsa, OK from New Jersey during the first 2 weeks of March, 2003. I have two Ficus trees that I want to take with me, they are approximately 6 years old and have always done well. What is the best way to protect them on their 2+ day journey west? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Fig Tree - Ficus benjamina

Your plants should be carefully wrapped to protect them from extreme temperatures, and the possibility of physical damages. I do not know what size your trees are, but if they are not too large, they can be wrapped with large paper sleve fan-shaped wrappers which pull up over the pot and plant. You may be able to purchase a couple of these wrappers from a local florist, greenhouse or nursery in your area. The potting media should be moist before wrapping the trees to prevent them from drying out during the journey.

If these wrappers can not be found, they can be wrapped with any type of roll paper or poly plastic. These wrappers are necessary to protect the plants from cold temperatures and wind while they are being taken from the home to the vehicle and vice ver-sa. The plants should be taken indoors in the evening (left wrapped up) whenever you have to stay over-night, in case of extreme temperature changes out of doors. If temperatures are cold outside, the trees must be moved in a heated vehicle. The trees should not be left to sit outside for any length of time, as both cold temperatures or very hot temperatures (from the sun shining on the wrappers) can damage them. In other words, take them straight out to the vehicle and then straight into the building when arriving at your destinations.

If the trees are fairly wide, the branches can be carefully bent upwards, starting at the bottom of the tree and working upwards, and loosely tied together in the up-right position with several rounds of a soft material such as cloth that is cut in strips. (A soft material prevents the bark from being damaged). The tree is then easier to wrap and will not take up so much space. Depending on what type of vehicle you have for transporting the trees, another option is to place the trees in large boxes, if it is possible to find such boxes. If the trees are properly wrapped, it will not harm them if they are laid down (as long as nothing heavy is placed on top of them). If you think they may have to be laid down during the trip, it is advisable to stuff some cloth at the top of the pots and tie it in place, so that the soil will not spill out of the containers.

That is basically all there is to it. Handle the plants carefully and carry them by holding on to the pots, not the top part, as the roots may become dislodged or the branches damaged. I hope you and your trees have a pleasant journey to their new home.

When you arrive at your new home, the wrappers should be taken off of the trees immediately. Plants can not survive for very long periods of time without light. The next important step is to try and give them (as close as possible) the same growing conditions they had before their journey. These include light, temperature, and humidity. Don't be to despaired if the trees drop a few leaves. Moving a plant to a new location usually causes some stress on the plant, and it may take some time for it to re-adjust to its new surroundings.

Bird's Nest Fern

Common Name: Bird's Nest Fern, Spleenwort, Shuttlecock

Botanical Name: Asplenium nidus

Plant Family: Aspleniaceae|

The Bird's Nest Fern, Asplenium nidus, is a tropical and sub-tropical plant which is native to the rain forests of Asia, Africa, India, Polynesia and Australia. In the wild, these largest of epiphytes live up in the crowns of trees. Their means of nourishment is from nutrients found in dust particles and rain which is collected in the plants deep, funnel-shaped rosette of leaves. The genus name Asplenium (Spleenwort) is derived from the Greek words 'a' meaning 'not', and 'splen', meaning 'spleen' and refers to the medicinal properties the plant is supposed to have. The specific epithet or species name 'nidus' means 'a nest', hence the common name Bird's Nest Fern. The Bird's Nest Fern belongs to the 'Aspleniaceae' family under the fern order 'Polypodiales'.

The leathery, tongue-like, glossy, pale green, wavy-edged fronds of this fern are borne in a tight rosette at the rhizome, forming a bowl-shaped clump with a fibrous center, which to many resembles a bird's nest, or at least a seemingly sheltered spot for a bird's nest. Each frond is entire or undivided and has a prominent, polished rib running down the center of the frond. The new fronds uncurl from the hairy, dark scaled crown of the rosette in typical fern manner. They are very soft and brittle when young and must not be handled. As the new fronds grow in, the older ones gradually die. Mature fronds can grow to 3 feet in length and 8 inches in width, and under ideal conditions, a plant can reach 4 to 6 feet in height, but, under normal home conditions the plant rarely exceeds 15 inches in height. The stems of each frond are stumpy and erect. Another commonly grown variety is Asplenium crispafolium, which has deeply ruffled fronds.

LIGHT

This fern must be grown in low to moderate, indirect light, such as that of a north window or lightly curtained east or west windows. The fern will grow successfully under 150 foot candles of artificial light. In direct sun, the fronds will scorch, and in deep shade, the plant will perish. Very pale colored fronds can be the direct result of too much sun or light.

TEMPERATURE

Provide warm temperatures for the fern, 60°F at night, and 70-80°F during the day. Fronds that turn yellow beginning at the base of the plant, or those that develop brown spots, are in most cases the result of the air being too warm. Even though this fern requires warm temperatures, it should in no way be located in front of hot air vents; nor should it be subjected to either hot or cold drafts.

WATERING

The potting media must be kept evenly moist at all times and never allowed to dry out. By providing the plant with a well-drained media, over-watering will not become a problem. A soggy soil will result in root and crown rot problems. Never allow the pot to sit in the excess drainage water. Water the plant from the top of the pot using tepid water and thoroughly soak the media (avoid getting the inner crown wet), and then do not water again until the surface of the media approaches dryness. In winter when the plant is dormant (resting period), or temperatures are on the cooler side, the plant should be watered more sparingly, but never allowed to dry out.

FERTILIZING THE PLANT

Providing the potting media has been prepared properly prior to planting the fern, the plant will only need to be fertilized twice during the growing season, once in early spring when growth resumes and once again in the summer. A good fertilizer for this fern is an organic fish emulsion fertilizer which has been diluted to one half the strength recommended by the manufacturer as labeled on the container. Over-fertilizing will result in frond tip and frond damage, as well as root damage of the plant. Ferns that have very pale colored fronds and very weak growth indicate a need for feeding.

HUMIDITY

If humid air can not be provided for this fern, problems will occur, it can not tolerate dry air. Humidity levels of 60% or higher should be maintained. Small Bird's Nest Fern plants are often grown in a terrarium where they thrive in the warm, humid environment. Increase levels of humidity around the plant by setting the pot on a pebble tray, filling pots with moist peat moss, setting out pans of water, grouping plants together, misting the plant, running small water fountains or installing a humidifier. If the fronds are turning yellow, developing brown tips, or there is no new growth, the most likely cause is dry air. Fronds that are dying back are usually the direct result of both dry air and dry media.

REPOTTING

Repot the fern, only if necessary, in a one size larger pot in spring. They do not require a very large pot because of their small root systems. A good soil mix consists of equal parts of packaged potting media, peat moss or leaf mold, and perlite or builder's sand. To each gallon of the above mix, 2 tablespoons of bonemeal should be added and thoroughly mixed in. Bonemeal is an excellent source of natural phosphorous which is needed by the plant for good root development ,as well as aiding in maintaining a neutral soil pH required by the plant.

PESTS

Insect pests most likely to attack Asplenium nidus are scale, aphids and mealybug. Careful monitoring of the plants leaves, especially on the under-sides, and regular dusting and washing of the leaves will keep these insects under control without having to resort to the use of pesticides. Washing them off, touching them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, or rubbing them off with a thumb-nail are means of control. Care must be taken when cleaning the leaves so as not to break off the brittle new fronds. Spore cases on the undersides of mature leaves should not be confused with scale insects. Keep the plant healthy and neat by cutting off dead fronds at any time of the year, and keep the base of the plant free from debris. Diseases to watch for include: anthracnose, blights, leaf blisters, leafspots and rusts.

Although the frond tips of the Bird's Nest Fern sometimes have a bit of a natural curl, severe curling of the fronds may be the result of cold drafts, over-watering, or too little heat. The Bird's Nest Fern thrives in warmth and humidity, like the typical conditions of those found in a tropical greenhouse.

Fishtail Palm

I am wondering if you can help me identify a plant I bought. I bought it from Costco and it is somewhat like a plam, but it is not nearly as bushy and the leaves are different. As they open up they look more and more like they have been torn. The leaf, in total, is maybe 4-5 inches in diameter at the widest point, about 3/4 out the leaf. It is as if it has been cut into 3 sections, which seem to sit next to each other, yet they are cut, and the end of each section is a different length and appears to have been torn across the top of each section. The plant I have is a good six feet tall and has around 6 thicker main stems with lots more coming up. It is more of a taller nature than hanging out to the side. I am trying to find out it's name and light and watering requirements and would appreciate any help you could give me. Thanks.

Fishtail Palm - Caryota mitis

Is your plant a Fishtail Palm (Caryota mitis - or a different species of Caryota)? If it is, it requires bright, indirect light such as a curtain-filtered south window, or (at least 400 foot candles of artificial light).

The soil must be kept thoroughly moist, but never soggy wet or the stems could rot. Never let the pot sit in the drainage water. Water the plant as soon as the surface of the soil approaches dryness.

Give the plant nightime temperatures of 65 to 70 °F and daytime temperatures between 75 to 85°F.

Fertilize the plant with a balanced plant food (20-20-20 - for example) once a month durinjg the growing season (spring to fall). Never fertilize a plant while it is in the dormant period.

Repot the plant in spring if necessary (they prefer to be on the crowded side) in a one size larger pot. A good soil mix consists of 1 part loam, 1 part peat moss or leaf mold, and one part perlite. Add 2 tablespoons of bone meal to 1 gallon of the above mix for good root development. Most commercially packaged potting soils will also be fine.

Young plants can be propagated at any time of the year from the young suckers which develop at the base of the plant. Seeds can also be purchased to propagate new plants.

Keeping the air moist where the plant is located will help prevent spider mite infestations.