Norfolk Island Pine - Brown Needles

I have a five-year old Norfolk Pine that has a lot of brown needles and branches that are falling off. I do not want to lose it as I have grown it from a very small tree. Thanking you in advance.

Norfolk Island Pine

Several factors could be responsible for the browning and falling off of needles and branches on your Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla). An unfortunate, but common trait of the pine is to drop its lower branches as it gets older. This will often occur once the tree reaches a height of 4 feet. The major factor contributing to the loss of lower branches is inconsistent watering. If the potting soil should dry out, the delicate root hairs start to shrivel . Once they shrivel, they are unable to absorb adequate moisture and nutrients. The tree automatically drops needles and branches in an attempt to balance the top growth with the root system. If watering is maintained properly, the root system and top growth will balance out and the plant will generally resume normal growth. There is no way to get the fallen branches back or encourage new ones.

The soil should never be allowed to dry out, nor should it ever be allowed to remain on the soggy side. The Norfolk Island pine loves a moist soil at all times. Over-watering, especially during winter months or during plant dormancy can lead to loss of branches. The surest way to prevent over-watering is by providing a well-drained, porous potting soil with enough organic matter mixed in to hold moisture. Excess water will flow out freely through the drainage holes in the pot. Never let the pot sit in water in the saucer or catch basin after it is watered. Place a one size smaller catch basin (upside down) inside the one used to catch the water and set the pot on it.

Hot, dry air is also a possibility. This problem is common in the winter months when we are heating our homes with central heating systems. Conditions may be improved by turning down the thermostat (especially at night - Norfolk Island pine prefers cool nights) and misting the tree at least once or twice a day during the morning hours. Avoid misting at night as this can lead to fungal problems. Pans of water may be set near heat registers to increase humidity levels in the room, or the plant may be set on a tray of pebbles to increase humidity.

Check the location of the plant to be sure it is not in the path of cold or hot air drafts from opening doors, windows or heat registers. If the tree is sitting in a southern exposure, direct sun through window panes can cause browning of the needles. The lower position of the sun in the winter months can result in too much direct sunlight.

A pot-bound plant will often suffer from stress. Although Norfolk Island pine can often go 3-4 years without repotting, this could be another possibility. Check the drainage holes for exposed roots, or examine the rootball by lifting it out of the container. If the roots were circling around and around the bottom of the container, the plant needs repotting. This is also a good time to check the roots to see if they are healthy or rotting. Rotten roots indicate poor soil structure and poor drainage. If the tree needs repotting, prune the large roots back to the root-ball being careful not to injure too many of the fine feeder roots. Repot the plant in a porous, organic media (African Violet potting soil with perlite added is good) in a one size larger pot.

Browning of needles can occur if fertilizer is being added while the plant is dormant. Furthermore, as the plant gets larger, the pot also gets larger and can hold fertilizer a lot longer. Over-fertilizing, especially in winter can cause the salt effect (burning of the roots). If your pine is growing in low light, fertilize it sparingly even during the growing season (spring and summer).

Check the plant carefully for insects. Spider mites, mealybugs or scale insects often invade houseplants during the drier winter months. A hand held magnifying glass will be needed to detect tiny spider mites. These insects damage the needles by sucking the sap.

On a final note, Norfolk Island pine does not like having its branches or needles rubbed or brushed against. Needles will brown and fall.

Plant Propagation (Part 1)

Over the years, my interests in horticulture have been limitless. There is a great fascination to this wonderful occupation or hobby that I’m sure every gardener feels such as planting a new tree or shrub, noticing a flower bud appear on a cactus as if by magic, or patiently waiting to see if the lily you planted last fall will bloom this summer. Many of us plant a vegetable garden each year, grow some annual and perennial flowers, care for our lawns and do all the other tasks that go along with gardening. Yet, with all of these wonderful things to do, it is my belief that each one of us has his(her) unique, personal interest that outweighs all the others.

Many must add at least one or two new lilies to their collection each year, or maybe there is room for another orchid. Some try to obtain every known species of Mammillaria cacti, as each one is unique and very different than the other. Of course there is the gardener who desperately tries to grow the largest pumpkin in the neighbourhood each year. Thank goodness there are those who devote their time and lives to hybridizing of plants so each of us can enjoy new and interesting cultivars.

My fascination has always been plant propagation. Watching a tiny Mountain Ash seed grow into a 30 foot tall tree in a few years or simply dropping a succulent leaf unto some moist potting soil and watching a new plant develop from the basal end of that tiny leaf is indeed satisfying. Some plants are simple to propagate and respond quickly, while others are a bit more demanding and respond or develop slowly. Learning how to propagate plants is an interesting and inexpensive way to increase the number of plants you love growing.

There are two basic types of plant propagation commonly used in horticulture.. The most common type is sexual reproduction where new plants are started from seed or spores (ferns for example). These methods of starting new plants are a direct result of combining both the male and female elements of a plant (pollination and fertilization). A gardener is able to raise a large number of plants quickly and easily when using seed as a means of propagation. Most garden vegetables and annual flowers are reproduced in this manner. Unlike other methods of propagation, seeds carry very few diseases, thus preventing the transfer of disease from one generation to the next. For complete, detailed instructions on seed propagation, refer to ‘Starting Your Own Bedding Plants’ and ‘Transplanting Your Seedlings’ in previous columns.

There are times, however, when it is not practical to start new plants from seed. For instance, it would take many years before we could enjoy apples from an apple tree started from a seed. The tree would go through a long juvenility period (a state of growth a plant must go through prior to being able to produce flowers) before it could produce fruit. So, instead of having to wait a decade or longer for an apple from that tree, we can enjoy fruit from a tree in 2 to 4 years by using either a process known as budding or grafting. Many plants we grow and enjoy today have been developed and introduced by man through hybridization (cross-pollination) and also by preserving plants or parts of plants that occur naturally in nature known as sports or mutations. These plants will not come true from seed. They will revert back to the parent plant(s) and we would lose the desirable characteristics of that plant. By using methods of propagation other than seed to reproduce these plants, the genetic clones of the plant part used for propagation remain exactly the same and we can preserve or keep true the characteristics of that parent plant.

Furthermore, there are plants that simply do not produce seed and therefore must be propagated asexually. One example is the ‘Thompson Seedless’ grape. Here is an example of a mutation that was noticed hundreds of years ago and has been maintained and reproduced as a fruit cultivar by asexual (reproduced without the male and female element) or vegetative propagation. By using vegetative material from this plant to reproduce this plant, it has gone unchanged for hundreds of years. There is always the possibility when reproducing plants from seed, that cross-pollination can occur and the desirable characteristics of the plant we are reproducing can eventually change or be lost.

A plant that has befallen some type of injury or has lost its aesthetic appeal can often be renewed by means of vegetative propagation. A plant of good size can be obtained quickly in this way as compared to starting new plants from seed.

Not all plants can be reproduced by vegetative propagation. For example, the common houseplant Sanseveria laurentii (Mother-in-Law’s Tongue) will loose its variegated yellow and green leaves and revert back to solid green if we try to propagate it with leaf cuttings. With some conifers, yews and Norfolk Island pine, cuttings should not be taken from side branches as they will continue to grow laterally and never form the erect, symmetrical habit of growth common to these plants. Flowering shoot tips from certain plants will not develop the main characteristics of the plant, but remain as that of the flowering shoot.

Donkey's Tail, Burro's Tail

Common Name: Donkey's Tail, Burro's Tail

Botanical Name: Sedum morganianum

Plant Family: Crassulaceac

Donkey's tail is a beautiful trailing plant with stems comprised of ¾ to 1-inch long tear shaped, blue-green to gray-blue, fleshy, overlapping leaves. These hanging stems often reach lengths of 3 feet or more, thus the name Donkey's Tail. To some, each stem appears as long bunches of tiny, unripe bananas. The light color and shape of the plants leaves add interesting contrast and texture to a houseplant collection. This is the plant for those who do not have a green thumb as it is probably the most undemanding and easy to grow houseplant anyone could wish for.

Donkey's tail needs bright light (no less than 450 fc.) to be at it's best. A sunny south window is an ideal location for this plant as it loves sunlight. Tiny, pink flowers will appear in spring if the light is bright enough, but rarely does it bloom in the home.

As with most succulent plants, watering is often the cause of failure. The leaves of this plant are capable of storing water for many weeks, so be sure not to over-water it. In spring and summer while the plant is actively growing, thoroughly water it and then allow the soil to approach dryness before watering again. In late fall and winter months, only water the plant when the leaves feel soft to prevent them from shriveling.

Donkey's Tail tolerates a wide range of temperatures from 40 - 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but does best with daytime temperatures of 60 - 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 45 - 55 degrees Fahrenheit at night. As for soil, give the plant a well drained media consisting of equal parts of potting soil and perlite or sharp sand. By mixing 1 tablespoon each of bonemeal and ground limestone into one gallon of this mixture, the plant should not require fertilizing for several years. When growth does show signs of slowing down (providing the plant is not dormant), one application of fertilizer in early spring, late spring and late summer should be sufficient. Cactus juice fertilizer or any type of water soluble fertilizer with a higher percentage of phosphorous and potassium is best for this plant. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers.

Fortunately, Donkey's Tail does not require frequent repotting. If the plant needs to be repotted, it must be handled very gently or many of the leaves will dislodge or fall off. It might be better to start a new plant instead of repotting the old one by simply inserting a few leaves or short stem sections in moist sand. Just barely bury the end part of the leaf that was attached to the stem in the moist sand. Use at least 3 to 4 leaves per pot to produce a plant of good size.

Scale Insects on Ivy

I have an ivy plant that appears to be badly infected with scale insects and looks half dead. It is special to me as this was one of a number of ivies that I made into topiaries for my wedding centerpieces 6 years ago. As I live in San Diego it remains outside all year round. Is there hope for it? There is a little green left, but not much. Any suggestions? Looking forward to your response, thanks.

Ivy

My suggestion for any plant that looks half dead and is as heavily infested with scale insects as your ivy, would be to dig up the plant and have it disposed of by burning. Trying to save a plant under such stress is hardly worth the effort. Under each female scale insect may be several hundred eggs ready to hatch, further adding to the problem.

However, as this plant is very special to you, you may be able to rejuvenate the plant or propagate new plants from portions of the mother plant by trying one or all of these suggestions. In any event, be sure to choose the greenest and healthiest portions of the plant when trying either of these methods.

Rejuvenating a plant means restoring it to youthful vigor and a pleasing appearance. This will call for drastic pruning of the ivy, being sure to remove all portions of the plant infested with the scale insects. Cut it back to a few inches from the ground, trying to leave a few nodes (the part of the stem that is swelled or bulged, or the part where a leaf or bud is attached) on each stem after it has been cut back. Some of the longer, healthy green stems may be left on the plant until new growth is noticed on the shortened stems as long as they are free from scale insects. These old portions can be removed at a later date to improve the plants evenness and overall appearance. Remove any sections, stems or roots that may be rotted as well as any dead leaves at this time. Once pruning is complete, water the ivy well and do not let the soil dry out. Ivy's require an even supply of moisture at all times for optimum growth, vigor and avoidance of stress. Weakened and stressed plants are far more susceptible to disease and insect infestations. Once growth resumes, fertilizer may be added to the plant if required. At the present time, if your ivy is growing in an area with very poor air circulation; is growing in a dark, damp corner; is growing near a very hot south wall (ivy thrives on western and northern walls), or is growing in an area with poor drainage, then I would suggest trying one of the following means of plant propagation and not the rejuvenating procedure. The above mentioned conditions are very unhealthy and stressful to ivy plants.

Propagation is the means of starting new plants from either seed (sexual) or some part of a plant (asexual) such as the leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, etc. New plants can be started by taking 6-9 inch long stem cuttings off of the old ivy plant. (Choose cuttings that are as green and healthy as possible). Make the bottom cut on each stem just beneath a node. These cuttings must be free of scale insects. On small plants or portions of a plant, scale can be controlled by wiping the leaves and stems with 70% alcohol and then rinsing with warm water. If the ivy is a short jointed, small leafed variety, than shorter cuttings may be used (4-6 inches long). The next step is to remove the bottom leaves from the cuttings and insert them into a moist medium such as sand or vermiculite. The media must be kept moist at all times. Place the cuttings so at least one node is buried in the medium (2 is better) being sure the bottom part of the cutting is inserted so as the cutting is not up side down. Place the cuttings into the media immediately after taking them from the plant so as they will not dry out. A rooting hormone is not necessary for ivy cuttings.

Cuttings root easier if they are kept close ( warm and humid). Several cuttings could be inserted into a pot of moist sand or vermiculite and then put into a clear plastic bag and taken into the home where they can be kept close. Other cuttings could be planted outside of the home in your area in a shaded area that is sheltered from the wind. Ivy's are generally one of the easiest plants to start from cuttings. The more cuttings you can take off the mother plant will increase the chances of having some portion of the original plant survive.

If your ivy has spread over a fairly wide area where it is growing, many of the stems will have rooted where they lay on the soil. These rooted portions of stems may be dug up and used to propagate new plants. This usually is a sure way of increasing plants. Just plant them in any good garden soil as soon as they have been removed from the parent plant and water them well.

Monitor (watch) the cuttings closely to ensure the media does not dry out and that there is no reoccurrence of scale insects. Scale insects are easiest to control just after the eggs hatch (crawler stage) and after they molt into the second immature stage, called a nymph. These are the stages where they are sucking sap from the plant. Once they reach the adult stage, sprays generally do not affect them because of the hard shell or covering. (Systemic insecticides would have to be used to control the adult stage). Check the cuttings almost daily with a hand held magnifying glass in order to observe these tiny crawlers (if any are present). Touching them with a cotton-swab that has been dipped in alcohol will kill them. If control is necessary with a chemical spray, you will have to use an insecticide that is registered for scale insects in your county. ALWAYS FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS WHEN USING PESTICIDES!

When the cuttings are well rooted they are ready to be planted in there permanent location. The cuttings from indoors must be 'hardened off' before they are planted outdoors by setting them outside for a short time each day and gradually increasing the time every two days for about two to three weeks. If this is not done, the hot sun and drying winds can kill the tender plants.

Before planting them out, prepare the soil properly by working in compost, leaf mold, well-rotted manure or peat moss. Adding bone meal to the soil promotes a healthy, vigorous root system. Be sure the planting site has none of the poor conditions as previously described above. Keep the soil moist by providing a 3-4 inch layer of loose organic mulch around your ivy plants. Fertilize in the spring and also when the plants appear to slow down (providing they are not dormant) with a fertilizer that is slightly higher in nitrogen (ex. 10-5-5). Use either an organic fish fertilizer diluted in water or a water soluble chemical fertilizer and apply it at the rate recommended by the manufacturer.

Planting Tulips

I just got some tulip bulbs and wanted to know if I could plant them now. I live in an apartment and would have to use pots. Thank you.

Tulips

Planting tulip bulbs and other bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses indoors in pots in the winter months is a common practice known as 'forcing'. With a little luck you may have purchased a variety of tulips that are good for forcing. Some varieties do not perform well and so it is wise to choose bulbs that have 'good for forcing' clearly marked on the packages.

If your bulbs have been 'precooled' by the producer, then they may be planted and forced immediately. Pot them up in shallow pans (bulb pans) about 6 bulbs per 6 inch pot. They must have excellent drainage to prevent rotting, but at no time must they dry out. A good media for forcing bulbs is 1 part loamy soil, 1 part peat moss and 1 part sand or perlite. If clay pots are used, they should be soaked for at least 12 hours prior to planting the bulbs so they won't draw moisture from the planting medium.

It is best to plant tulips with the flat side of the bulb facing toward the outside of the pot. In this way, each first large leaf of each plant will face outward.

Fill the pot with only enough soil so that when the bulbs are planted, their tops will be even with the rim. Do not pack or firm the soil in the pots as this will hinder easy root development. Fill in the remaining space loosely with potting media to the top of the bulbs and water them in well, at least 2 - 3 times to ensure the potting media is moist.

Once planted, place them in direct sunlight or supply artificial light and provide temperatures preferably near 60º- 65 degrees F .. Rotate the pot regularly to ensure even light to all sides of the plant. Be sure to maintain an even soil moisture. You can prolong the blooming period by removing them from the direct sunlight once the flower buds start to open or show color. After blooming, it is best to simply discard the bulbs as they cannot be forced again.

If the bulbs you purchased have not been 'precooled' by the producer, than they must be cooled between temperatures of 35º and 50º F for about 14 to 15 weeks, otherwise they will not grow or produce flowers. A shorter cooling period than 14 weeks will result in short stems ;while a cooling period of over 15 weeks results in over long stems. The bulbs must be potted up in the pre mentioned potting media and kept moist and in the dark while they are going through this cooling period. This cooling period is the stage at which the bulb is forming it's roots. Check the soil weekly to be sure it does not dry out. Water the pots if required.

In mild regions where temperatures outside do not drop much below 35º F the bulbs may be cooled in trenches and covered with any loose insulating material. In the home, they can be cooled in cool basements, root cellars or placed in the refrigerator. At no time should the bulbs be allowed to freeze during this process.

Once the 14 - 15 week cooling period is over, place the potted bulbs in the light and warmth as described above. Keep them moist. There is no need to fertilize them as the bulb contains enough food to support blooming. They should start blooming in 3 - 4 weeks once they are placed in the warm, light environment.

One final suggestion is to mark the date you started cooling the bulbs on a label and stick it into the pot so you do not forget when the cooling process began. By the end of the cooling stage, roots should be clearly visible near the drainage holes in the pots. Enjoy your flowers!

Andromeda Bush

I planted an andromeda bush this spring (which was in flower) and it's been doing fine -- but I'm now concerned. I've read that "sprays" of flower buds should already be present in the winter. My plant does not have these precursor "sprays" -- but it does have little "nubbins" of growth near the ends of most branches. However, they are not on stems like the flower sprays would be; they are little bumps right on the branches themselves. (These nubbins have been present since early fall, and haven't changed or grown any.) Will these be progressing into flower sprays eventually? Is it maybe a "late bloomer" variety, or has my andromeda simply not set any buds? If this is true, what might I have done wrong?

Thanks so much!

Andromeda glaucophylla

Andromeda species belong to the Heather family Ericaceae, which is a small genus of low-growing, hardy (to minus 50 degree F) evergreen shrubs. These plants grow in acidic peat bogs in their native habitat and therefore should be planted in acid peaty soil or a sandy loam which is free or low in lime. A soil sample from your planting site can be analyzed at a local agricultural agency to determine the soils pH or acidity. Acidic sphagnum peat moss can be worked into the soil to reduce a soil's pH and make the soil more acidic.

Bogs are naturally a very moist area. Therefore, the soil around your Andromeda bush must be kept constantly moist for optimum growth of the plant. Mulching the ground around the bush with a 3-4 inch layer of loose organic material will help keep the soil moist.

Andromeda plants cannot tolerate hot summer weather. If your area has extended periods of very hot weather in the summer, than planting a species that is more suitable to that climate would be advisable.

In any case, it is not uncommon for a newly transplanted plant not to flower in the first year. Most plants go through an establishment phase during this period of time. As this maybe the case with your Andromeda bush, you should not feel responsible for the absence of flowers at this time.

If, however, the bush fails to bloom in the second year, than a lack of sunlight could be the problem. A plants failing to bloom is quite often directly related to inadequate sunlight. Be sure your Andromeda bush is receiving at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. If it is planted in a very shaded area, moving it to a more open site may rectify the problem. Plants that do not receive ample light will focus their energy on foliar growth and little, if any on flowering.

Seeking information from a local source is also advisable. Many factors that effect the growth and development of a plant vary considerably from region to region.