Peace Lily Care

I recently was given a peace lily. Could you give me instructions on how to care for it please? It is quite large already.

The Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum spp.), also known as Spathe flower, is a tropical evergreen, herbaceous plant belonging to the Arum family (Araceae). The shiny, dark green, long and narrow leaves curve downwards and emerge from the underground rhizomes, giving the plant a bushy appearance. There are many cultivars available on the market today, averaging from 8 inches high to 4 feet tall in height. If ideal conditions can be maintained, these low light flowering plants nearly stay in constant bloom. Generally though, flowering periods are in spring, summer and early fall. The fragrant white blossoms are produced on tall, erect flowerstalks that arise above the foliage. They consist of a spathe (one large bract) which partly encloses the white spadix (a sticklike structure which arises from the base of the spathe and contains the tiny true flowers).

Peace lilies must be grown in low to medium light conditions. At no time should they be placed in direct sunlight or the leaves will sunburn. 10 to 12 hours per day of 75-150 footcandles of light will keep the plant growing, with 200-300 footcandles required to produce flowers. In other words, semi-shade in summer and bright light (not direct sun) in winter. An east, west or shaded south window is best.

The potting media should be kept moist at all times. The plant will wilt if it is allowed to dry out, but recovers quickly once it is watered again. The leaves will also wilt if the media is kept too moist or wet. If the media is too moist or too dry for extended periods of time , the whole plant will become droopy and the leaves will turn yellow. When watering, soak the plant from the top of the pot until water runs out of the drainage holes, and then just allow the media's surface to approach dryness before soaking once again. Under colder conditions, watering must be monitored more carefully.

Misting your Peace lily every morning, surrounding the pot with moist peat moss, or placing the pot on a tray of pebbles with water (be sure the drainage holes are above the water) provides the humidity levels this plant needs. Extremely low humidity levels cause the leaf edges to turn brown, as does watering with water high in fluorides. Humidity levels for Peace lilies should be near 40-50 %.

Your Peace lily is a tropical plant. Provide it with warm temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees F. Do not let the temperature drop below 55 degrees F and do not place the plant where it is subjected to cold draughts.

Repotting should be done every year in the spring using a slightly larger flower pot each time. A good media consists of 2 parts peat moss or compost, 1 part potting soil, and 1 part perlite or sharp sand. (Refer to "Transplanting Your Seedlings" in BriansGarden for preparation of potting media). I mix one tablespoon of bonemeal in every gallon of potting media. After repotting, or propagating new plants in the spring by dividing the plants into smaller clumps (each division must have roots), give them less water until the roots have grown into the new soil.

Feeding or fertilizing is based on the needs of your plant. Plants growing under different environmental conditions require different fertilization regimens. If your Peace lily is underfed, the leaves will become patchy with yellow, ragged leaves. A general purpose water soluble houseplant fertilizer like 20-10-10 or 20-20-20 may be used when required. The plant may require fertilizing every 2 weeks during active growth or only every 2-3 months. Overfeeding any houseplant is far more damaging than underfeeding.

To keep your plant healthy and looking its best, wipe the leaves with a sponge using warm, soapy water every month or two. Putting it in the shower now and again reminds it of rainfall, cleans the leaves and makes it happy (use a gentle, tepid spray). The spadix part of the flower should be removed when it appears, or it may stain the plants leaves. Some folks are also allergic to the pollen grains. Once the flower turns brown or green in color, remove the flower stalk at the base of the plant. Also, remove any yellow leaves that may occur from time to time at the soil level.

Peace lilies are sometimes bothered by spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, thrips or whiteflies. A pyrethrin insecticide controls these insects. Stem canker, root rot, leafspot, mosaic virus and aerial blight are the main diseases of Peace lilies. Keeping your plant healthy and clean should prevent these problems. Fungicides that are registered for some of these diseases should be available at larger garden centers. Be sure to FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS when using pesticides.

Peace lilies make a lovely addition to any home or houseplant collection. The really undemanding cultural requirements and versatility of this plant makes it one of the best. Enjoy your new plant!

How Trees and Shrubs Avoid Freeze Stress

Something that has always amazed me is how trees and shrubs can survive minus 40 degree F (Celsius) or colder temperatures and still come through in the spring with a flush of green growth. 'Mother Nature' has such a well designed plan for everything, including the winter retirement of trees and shrubs.

Our native trees and shrubs, of course, are acclimatized and synchronized to our local, natural environment. They respond to day length (photoperiod) and temperature as to when they should go dormant and break dormancy. A tree from Florida or even Southern Ontario would not survive our climate in zone 2 because they simply are not synchronized with our local growing conditions or seasons. Plants growing within their natural range are governed by day length and temperature of that range.

This adaptation of a plant to a region or area has developed over the past thousands of years. So, even if we were to take the same species of tree that grows naturally in Northern Florida (zone 9) and our region (zone 2), the tree from Florida would not likely survive our much colder climate.

This is the direct result of the Florida tree not being able to synchronize itself to our early autumn conditions. The tree would not develop hardy dormant buds and plant tissue before the onset of sub-zero temperatures. The tree would die or die back due to the nature of freezing stress. Freezing or not freezing of a plant is determined by the location of ice formation within the plant. If the formation of ice occurs within a plant cell, that cell will inevitably die. This is why professional chefs tear lettuce apart as opposed to slicing it with a knife. When cut by a knife, the damaged lettuce cells will turn brown almost instantly. The lettuce leaves do not turn brown when they are torn apart because the plant tissue separates around the edges of the plant cells without damaging the delicate cell membranes.

Our hardened and dormant native species of trees and shrubs prepare themselves for sub-zero temperatures in one of two ways. These are either by freeze-induced cell dehydration or by supercooling cellular water below freezing temperatures.

Freeze Induced Cell Dehydration Freezing Tolerance

To avoid intracellular (inside the cell) ice formation, the largest part of our most hardy tree and shrub species rely on freeze-induced cell dehydration. These species permit ice to form outside of the cells between the cells. The water starts to freeze at temperatures just below 0 degrees Celsius (32 degrees F) forming ice just outside of the cells. Sugars and other organic molecules in the cell help prevent ice from forming in the cell as quickly as outside the cell in much the same way as salt in water slows salt water from freezing as quickly. In comparison to water, ice is dry, so the humidity outside of the cell is lower than humidity inside the cell. Water from inside the cell is then drawn out of the cell in vapour form in an attempt to equalize humidity levels between the outside and inside of the cell. The dry ice draws water from the cell much like a dry paper towel absorbs water. As the temperature continues to drop, water is continually drawn out of the cell and freezes onto the dry ice crystals outside of the cell until there is almost no free water left within the cells.

Many of our native species can withstand temperatures as low as -196 degrees C without suffering any damage. Formation of ice can occur in cells in these hardy plant species when chinooks raise temperatures above 0 degrees C, allowing water to re-enter the cell. A quick, sudden temperature drop of more than 2 degrees C per hour can result in intracellular ice formation because water may not be able to leave the cell fast enough. These cells will die resulting in injury or death to the tree or shrub.

Supercooling Of Water

In our more southerly native species of trees and shrubs, formation of ice in a cell is prevented by supercooling of water. This in itself is rather amazing. In order for an ice crystal to form, it must have a speck of dust or any microscopic impurity in the water to form that first ice crystal (know as the nucleus) at 0 degrees C. Once it has formed, other water molecules lock onto it causing rapid growth of ice crystals. When there is absolutely no impurities in water, water can be cooled to -38 degrees C. without freezing. This is known as supercooling of water. These tree and shrub species have absolutely pure water within their cells and avoid winter damage by super cooling of water. Needless to say, if the temperature should drop lower than -38 degrees C, ice formation will occur within the plant cells and they will die, resulting in frost damage or death of those plants.

Yellow Fungi in Soil

I have yellow furry fungi growing in a jade plant, philodendron, and coleus. It is in the soil. What should I do?

The yellow furry fungi growing on the potted plant soil is one of the estimated 250,000 species of Mycota. Identification of these fungi can only be made by microscopic examination of the spores or the lesions. These plant-like organisms lack chlorophyll (the green color of plants), but many contain bright pigments in their fruiting bodies (the reason for the yellow color in this case). The species growing in the flower pots is probably saprohytic, which means it is living (getting its energy) from dead organic matter in the soil (such as a piece of rotted wood, for example). This type of fungus does not live on living organisms and will not harm the houseplants. If it were parasitic, like powdery mildew or smut for example, then it would require living organic matter such as plants to derive its energy from, and could do harm to the plants.

The presence of this fungus in three of your potted plants would indicate your potting media (soil) is from the same source, or the fungus is reproducing and spreading from pot to pot by spores which are usually produced in tremendous numbers. The air is always full of spores, the reason bread gets mouldy when conditions are favorable for germination of the spores.

In a lot of cases, fungi, moulds, algae or moss growing on a soils surface indicates poor drainage of the potting media. A media's surface which always remains damp favors the growth and development of these organisms. If this is the case, repot the plants using a media which has good physical characteristics such as good drainage and aeration (porosity).

It may be possible that the potting soil was not pasteurized and the fungus came along with the soil. Be sure your new soil is pasteurized and do not contaminate it with any of the old soil. Sterilize your flower pots or purchase new ones before repotting the plants. A 4% solution of household bleach and water will kill most pathogens.

If the potting soil in which your plants are in now has good drainage, remove the fungus and as much of the surface soil as possible (without damaging too many roots) and replace it with new potting soil. If the fungus reappears, repotting your houseplants with new potting soil is the only solution. There is the option of hiding the fungus with pebbles placed on top of the soils surface. Lack of light and a dry soil surface may eventually kill the fungus, but this is unlikely.

One final suggestion is to visit a large, reliable garden center, greenhouse or florist shop and see if they can recommend a fungicide for this type of soil fungus. Most fungicides, however, are used for preventative measures as opposed to eradicants (killing the organisms). If a fungicide is used, FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS.

Pansy Fertilization

What is the best fertilization regimen for pansies?

The best fertilization regimen for pansies (as for all out of door plants) is to feed them when they require fertilizer. It is very difficult to give an exact fertilization regimen when there are so many factors influencing the growth of plants in the outside environment. For example, if the weather turns quite cold for a week or two, the pansies could stop growing altogether and not use any of the available soil nutrients in that period of time. Adding more fertilizer just because the regimen calls for it could do a lot more harm than good. A heavy rainfall, or forgetting to turn off a soaker hose could leach nutrients from the soil resulting in a shortage of nutrients long before the scheduled application date. If an extended period of very warm weather occurs, the addition of more fertilizer could lead to extended foliar stretching of the pansies, resulting in anything but beautiful, compact plants. Most annuals will put out foliage at the expense of flowers in a soil that is too rich or over-fertilized. This is why I suggest fertilizing them when they require it. Plants show us in various ways when they need fertilizing.

Healthy pansies should be short (6-7 inches), compact plants with rich green leaves and produce an abundance of flowers. As long as they appear healthy and vigorous, there is no need for additional fertilizing. Once plant growth slows down, or the leaves appear slightly paler in color and fewer flower buds are produced, then fertilizer should be applied. A slight shortage of fertilizer is far less damaging to a plant and the environment than over fertilizing.

To grow beautiful, compact, free blooming pansies, the soil should be well-drained and enriched with well-rotted manure or compost. Working 3 inches of either of these materials into the top 9 inches of soil will suffice. Bonemeal or rock phosphate should also be added at the rate specified on the containers label and thoroughly worked into the soil. If manure or compost are not available, peat moss should be added to supply the required amount of organic matter. It is the organic matter in a soil which prevents the soil from compacting, prevents leaching of nutrients and helps retain soil moisture. If peat moss is used, rather than compost or manure, the addition of fertilizer should be added and worked into the soil at the rate recommended by the manufacturer. Having a soil sample analyzed periodically leaves no guessing as to which nutrients are high or low in the soil. Once the soil is properly prepared, pansies generally do not require additional fertilizer until after the first flush of blooms.

To keep them blooming freely, they should receive ample sunlight (partial shade during the hottest part of the day is fine) and the soil should be kept constantly moist. A one or two inch layer of organic mulch over the soil is beneficial. Pansies must also be deadheaded (removing the spent flowers) on a regular basis to ensure the formation of new flower buds. Tall, lanky branches should also be trimmed back to encourage new lateral shoots which keeps the plants compact and improves flowering.

Once the pansies appear to slow down or have that 'hungry look', it is important to use a fertilizer that gives quick results, especially if the soil temperature is lower than 60 degrees F . Use a fertilizer which contains 50% of the nitrogen in nitrate form when soils are cold, rather than ammonia or urea types. The reason being bacteria must convert ammonia and urea nitrogen fertilizers into nitrates before plants can use them. In cold soil, the bacteria work very slowly at this process, resulting in a shortage of available nitrogen to the plants. A good choice for cold soils is to use formulations derived from calcium nitrate or potassium nitrate and apply these as a soil drench (mix the fertilizer with water following directions on the labels and soak the soil around the plants to a depth of 4-6 inches). This application should supply the necessary nutrients for approximately 2-3 weeks. If soil temperatures are warm (above 60 degrees F) in your area, ammonia or urea nitrogen formulation fertilizers are fine.

Furthermore, choose a fertilizer that is appropriate for your area. For example, in our area, the soil has a high percentage of potassium. I only use one application of 11-48-0 fertilizer six to seven weeks after setting out the plants. This one application keeps the plants compact and blooming freely until frost. The zero (0) in 11-48-0, indicates there is no potassium in this formulation (because our soil does not require additional amounts of potassium), but requires a fairly high percentage of phosphorus (48) and some nitrogen (11). If a soil were high in phosphorous, but low in potassium, then a formulation such as 15-2-20 should be used. If a soil is high in both phosphorous and potassium, but low in sulphur, then a fertilizer such as ammonium sulphate (21-0-0-24) should be used. In almost all cases, the addition of nitrogen is required in our soils. This is the reason I have not suggested any particular fertilizer formulation for your pansies. Without knowing your soil, it would be unwise to recommend a fertilizer. Information on soil in your area can be obtained from a local agricultural agency.

I feel the best advice is to set up a fertilization regimen for your pansies based on your local weather conditions, local soil requirements in terms of both macro and micro-nutrients, soil pH (pansies prefer a pH of 5.5-5.8), and observations based on the vigor and performance of the plants themselves.

Non-toxic Houseplants

We have a cat, who likes to eat things. Could you recommend a list of non-toxic houseplants?

My first suggestion would be to grow some plants that your cat can eat. This may help keep him(her) away from the houseplants you do not want nibbled on. Perhaps you have noticed a cat eating lawn grass at some time or another. The reason they do this is to help rid themselves of hair (hairballs) which collect in their digestive tract while they are grooming themselves.

Some of the best and easiest plants to grow for this purpose are oats, wheat and barley. These cereal grains are softer than regular grass and easier on the cats tummy. Placing three or four of these thickly seeded potted plants on the floor here and there may keep your pet away from your houseplants. It is wise to let the plants grow and become turf or lawn-like before setting them on the floor for your pet, otherwise, they may find the soil an interesting place to dig and scratch in. Most pet shops refer to these as oat grass, wheat grass, and barley grass.

Another plant which most cats simply can not resist is catnip or catmint (Nepeta cataria). This plant belongs to the mint family Labiatae. It may be used as a potted plant, or, dried leaves of the plant may be placed in small pouches and placed around the home. The plants oil excites cats and they may amuse themselves for hours by rolling in, rubbing or eating this aromatic plant.

As I am not a plant toxicologist, I can only recommend plants from sources that claim the plants are non-poisonous to cats. Although there are discrepancies with some houseplants as to whether they are toxic or non-toxic, the following list of houseplants has all sources I've referred to agreeing they are non-toxic. They are considered non-toxic only because there has been no reported cases of the plant having systemic effects on animals or having intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract. Some of the following houseplants may cause vomiting, diarrhea or depression to pets, but these symptoms are generally common and mild as when pets ingest yard grass, for example. On a final note, a plant may effect one pet, but not another. This holds true with humans, some people may be allergic to bananas or tomatoes, for examples, while the majority of people can eat these fruits without ill effects. Houseplants Considered Non-Toxic to Cats

The common names will be given, followed by the botanical name. Botanical names are far more reliable when purchasing plants because many different plants have the same common names. Spider plant, Ribbon plant, Airplane plant (Chlorophytum comosum) and other cultivars including 'Variegatum' and 'Vittatum'. Several years ago our cat ate the tips off of some young plants we had potted up. He is several years older and doing fine.

Swedish ivy (Plectranthus australis): This plant belongs to the same family as catnip, the mint family. It is considered that all plants in the mint family are non-toxic. These plants are recognized by their 4-sided or square stems and opposite leaves. Coleus (Coleus) is another member of the mint family and comes in a great assortment of leaf colors, shapes and configurations. A collection of 20 or more plants could be grown without having one plant look the same.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) makes a nice potted plant and, of course, can be eaten by all members of the home as well as many of the other common herbs.

African violets (Saintpaulia) and other members of the family Gesneriaceae including Flame violets (Episcia); Gloxinia (Sinningia); Lipstick Vine (Aeschynanthus) and Gold-Fish plant (Columnea gloriosa and C. banksii).

The Prayer plant (Maranta spp.) and Rattlesnake plant (Calathea insignis) have beautiful markings on their leaves.

Grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia) and other varieties of Cissus make nice trailing houseplants.

Others include: Boston Fern (Nephrolepis spp.); Wandering jew (Zebrina or Tradescantia spp.); Burro's Tail (Sedum morganianum) and Wax plant (Hoya carnosa and varieties).

Oramental Grasses

I am interested in growing more ornamental grasses and am wondering what might grow well in this climate. I had good success with a type of fountain grass and also grew a pampas grass that didn't bloom. I had the fountain grasses in planters and transplanted them to the backyard late in the fall, so I'm not sure they will survive.

I do not wish to be the bearer of bad news, but unfortunately, neither Fountain Grass (Pennisetum spp.), nor Pampas Grass (Cortaderia) are hardy on the prairies. They are, however, very easy to propagate (start) from seed sown in March or April and are thus treated as an annual in our region. The most likely reason your Pampas Grass failed to bloom is that it originates in S. America and requires a fairly long growing season to produce those huge plume-like inflorescences (flower spikes). The good news is there are many other kinds of grasses to choose from that are completely hardy on the prairies. Many of these perennial grasses are our own native species (grow in Saskatchewan) and are extremely hardy and as beautiful as the introduced species (grasses from other countries). In addition to these, annual grasses, sedges, and perennials with grass-like foliage can be chosen to beautify the yard or garden. Sedges resemble grass, but they are different in that their stems are 3-sided or triangular. The following list will provide information on some of the more popular species.

Hardy Perennial Grasses

Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea var. picta): Ribbon Grass is a very hardy and invasive perennial grass which forms open, upright clumps. One must be sure to keep it in bounds by either growing it in a buried container or growing it between a sidewalk and house foundation, for example. Its beautifully striped white and green leaves average 6-12 inches long. With the insignificant flower spikes, the plant reaches a height of 2-4 feet. Ribbon Grass can be grown in full sun or partial shade in any well-drained garden soil. It spreads by underground rhizomes, forming thick patches in a very short time. Propagation (starting new plants) is by division (dividing the large clumps into small pieces). If the grass appears shabby in July or late summer, it may be mowed to improve its appearance.

Blue Lyme Grass (Elymus arenarius): This is another very hardy, invasive grass that must be contained if used in the perennial garden. It is a loose clumping form with broad, arching, blue-grey grass blades. The attractive flower spikes are either blue or beige in color. Plant height is 2 feet. Give this grass full sun and a well-drained sandy type of soil. This grass also spreads by underground rhizomes. Propagation is by division.

'Skinner's Golden BromeGrass' (Bromus inermis 'Skinner's Golden'): This 2 foot tall graceful, arching grass is very pretty with its bright yellow and green variegated leaves. It is also very hardy and invasive, spreading by underground rhizomes and requiring confinement. A mowing in mid-summer will improve its appearance. It does well in any type of garden soil in full sun. The odd stem may revert back to green and should be removed along with the roots. Propagation is by division. Another selection of Bromus inermis is 'Gay Bouquet'. It has pink and green variegated leaves. Cultural requirements are the same as 'Skinners Golden'.

Blue Fescue or Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina var. glauca): This is an evergreen type of grass which retains its color the year around. It forms 6-12 inch high tufted mounds of thin, wiry, bright blue needle-like grass blades. This very pretty grass is non-invasive. The flower spikes are green to golden in color and should be removed from the plant as they appear. Blue Fescue does well in any well-drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. It is propagated by dividing the clumps every 3-4 years. Due to seed differences, color may vary from clump to clump. Choose only the very blue clumps to propagate new plants. Other cultivars include 'Skinner's Blue' which is generally longer lived and produces bright golden flower spikes (very attractive), 'Sea Urchin' with metallic blue foliage, averaging only 6 inches in height and 'Elijah Blue' which retains its color well throughout the year.

Tuberous Oatgrass (Arrhenatherum elatius 'Bulbosum Variegatum'): This 1 foot high tuberous rooted grass has variegated bluish-green and white leaves with inconspicuous (hardly noticeable) flowers. It does well in ordinary, well drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. It may require a mowing if it becomes untidy in July. It may become invasive and require confinement. Propagation is by division.

'Haense Herms' Red Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum 'Haense Herms'): An upright, arching form reaching 4 ft. high with a width of 3 feet. Leaves are variegated, purple and green. The flower panicles grow 16 inches in length and are purple-brown in color. This grass is non-invasive and likes any well-drained soil in full sun.

Tall Switch Grass (Panicum viragatum 'Strictum'): Another non-invasive ornamental grass with dark green foliage that forms upright, arching clumps. It reaches heights of 5-6 feet with a width of 4 ft. The purple-brown colored open panicles (flower heads) are approximately 2.5 in. wide and l6 in. long. Give it full sun and any well-drained garden soil.

'Heavy Metal' Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum 'Heavy Metal'): This slightly invasive grass forms erect clumps of foliage approximately 4 ft. high. The clumps average 4 ft. wide. The dark green leaves are striped with purple. The purple-brown colored panicles are 10 in. long and 4 in. wide. It prefers full sun and a well-drained soil.

Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens): A non-invasive upright clump forming grass with blue-green to blue-grey colored leaves. Approximate height is 3 ft. and width 4ft. This grass blooms in early summer with panicles of tan colored flowers. It is recommended that the foliage be left on the plant over winter and then the stems cut back only halfway in the spring, otherwise, the plant is set back and looses its vigor. It grows well in full sun in a rich, organic soil that is well drained.

Hervier's Fescue (Festuca hervierri): non-invasive, blue-green leaves, 1.5 feet high, forms upright spiky clumps. Likes a well-drained garden soil in full sun. Other slightly less hardy kinds include: Feathertop (Calamagrostis epigejos); Ravenna Grass (Saccharum ravennae); Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora 'Stricta'); Gold Beard Grass (Chrysopogon gryllus); Lerman's Fescue (Festuca lemanii); 'Bronze Veil' Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia caespitosa 'Bronze Veil'); Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis arundinacea 'Karl Foester'), and 'Skyracer' Tall Purple Moor Grass (Molinia caerulea arundinacea 'Skyracer').

Native Perennial Grasses

Tufted Hair Grass (Descampsia caespitosa): A dense clumping form reaching heights of 2-3 feet with large panicles of tan to purple colored flowers. Easy to propagate by division or seed. Tufted hair grass prefers a moist soil in full sun or partial shade.

Little Blue Stem (Schizachrium scoparium): This blue-green to purple colored grass forms clumps approx. 16-20 inches high. Winter foliage color is a bronzy-red. The flower heads are silvery in color. Plant in any ordinary garden soil in full sun. Propagate by division or seed.

Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans): A wide leafed grass with reddish stalks averaging 4 feet in height. The attractive plume-like flower heads are bronze colored. This grass prefers full sun and ordinary garden soil.

Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum): This slightly invasive tall growing native species can reach heights of 5 feet. The upright, narrow clumps are more attractive in the fall when the foliage turns golden-orange. It produces large, brown flowered panicles. The soil must be well drained, rich in organic matter and kept moist. Switch grass likes full sun or partial shade and is propagated by seed or division.

Big Blue Stem (Andropogon gerardii): Given a well-drained soil and full sun, this tall species may reach heights of 5 feet. The blue-green foliage forms upright clumps that turn to copper red in autumn. The flowers are reddish-purple in color. Propagate by division or seed.

Common Reed Grass (Phragmites communis): This grass is suited for the gardener who likes growing water plants. It can become invasive so caution must be exercised if it is to be located in a natural pond. The wide (1.1/2 in.) flat green leaves grow on stems that can reach 8-13 feet tall. Definitely a background plant. The large flower panicles are purple in color as they emerge, later changing to light yellow or straw color as fall approaches.

Sedges

Palm Sedge (Carex muskingumensis): This 2 foot high sedge resembles a palm because its yellow-green leaves grow at right angles to the stem. It has a very dense, arching form of growth. The soil must be high in organic matter and kept evenly moist for this plant to succeed. It does well in full sun or partial shade. Propagation is by seed or division.

Blue Sedge (Carex glauca): This interesting sedge grows approx. 2 ft. high and 2-3 feet wide. It's green to blue-green foliage is very dense and arching. Provide a moist, rich organic soil with full sun for good growth.

Annual Grasses

Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum): This beautiful perennial grass is native to Africa and must be treated as an annual in our colder climate. Its average height is approximately 3 feet. The pink or purple flower heads are produced on separate stems. This grass requires a deep loam soil and full sun to be at its best. Propagation is by seed. Two other cultivars of Pennisetum include: 'Rubrum' which has rose colored spikes and foliage and 'Cupreum' with copper-toned flower spikes and reddish foliage.

Natal Grass or Ruby Grass (Tricholaena rosea): This is another perennial grass from Africa that we treat as an annual grass on the prairies. It produces beautiful silky flowers on spikes that are pyramidal in shape. The flowers vary in color from dark red to purple as they mature. The plant grows 3-4 feet tall. The soil should be well-drained and light in texture for best results. Ruby grass does best in full sun. Propagation is by seed sown directly in the garden in spring.

Large Quaking Grass (Briza maxima) or Little Quaking Grass (Briza minor, B. minima, B. gracilis): These two have always been my favorite annual grasses. The flower heads resemble arrowheads that tremble in the slightest breeze. Large Quaking grass produces 1 inch long seed heads on stems 18-24 inches tall while Little Quaking grass produces heads that are much smaller, 1/8 - ¼ inch long on 9-12 inch tall stems. The seed colors include reddish brown, silvery red and purple green. This grass prefers drier soil and full sun. Propagate by seed.

Canary Grass (Phalaris canariensis): An easy to grow annual grass with l1/2 inch long variegated flower spikes. Many farmers grow it locally for bird seed. The plant averages 2-5 feet in height. This grass grows well in any garden soil, but it must have full sun to produce the flower spikes. Propagation is by seed sown directly in the garden in spring.

Hare's tail Grass (Lagurus ovatus): This 12-24 inch tall grass got its name from the wooly tuft of seeds (that average 2 inches in size) at the end of each slender stem. The leaves are very hairy and narrow. Grow in full sun on light, well-drained soil. Plants are started from seed sown in the garden in early spring.

Grass like Perennials

Blue-Eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium montanum Greene): This little 3-12 inch high flowering perennial truly resembles grass. The 1/8 inch wide leaves are grass-like, bright green and very narrow. The ¼ inch in diameter flowers are bright blue and star shaped. It grows well in moist, sandy soil in full sun. A very pretty native species.

Virginia Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana): This perennial flower has grassy foliage and blue, red or purple flowers. It grows 18-24 inches tall. It needs a rich, moist, well-drained organic soil in full sun or partial shade. Propagation is by division every 3-4 years, seed, or cuttings taken in summer.

Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.): The daylilies grass-like foliage remains attractive throughout the growing season. Depending on the variety, heights vary from 18 inches to 4 feet. Flower colors include yellow to orange, pink, mahogany, and red. They thrive in any garden soil in full sun or partial shade and are almost completely pest free. Propagate by division in spring.

Pincushion Cacti

Common Name: Pincushion cactus, Nipple cactus

Botanical Name: Mammillaria spp.

Plant Family: Cactaceae

Description: As this is such a large and interesting genus of cacti (over 300), it is more practical to give a general description of the group, followed by the names and descriptions of some of my favorites. Most species of Mammillaria are by far the easiest and most reliable cacti to grow and bring into flower. The name Mammillaria is derived from the Latin word mamilla which means nipple and refers to the small tubercles(fleshy lumps or warts) on each cactus. All cacti in this genus are rib-less. So, generally, they are globular to cylindrical-shaped and consist mostly of single, fleshy leaf-less stems that are capable of storing water for long periods of time. These fleshy stems are surrounded by spiraling rows of tubercles, each of which contains spines or hairs at their tips. These spines vary in shape, texture, arrangement, size and color, depending on the species. Many have spines that curve at the tips and resemble fish hooks. Most of the genus has two types of spines at the end of the tubercles - central and radials. On those which have both, the central spines are generally longer (stick out above the radials) and are more often than not a different color than the radials. In addition to these, some species have woolly axils. Many of these cacti make beautiful specimens even if they never bloom because of the beautiful colors of their spines which include reds, whites, yellows, gold, black, brown and other colors. Some species remain solitary (a single globe or cylinder) while others form clumps or thick clusters. Many are procumbent, that is they bend, lean forward or have long stems that trail or hang over the edge of the flower pot.

Mammillaria species vary in height, anywhere from 1 to 12 inches. This lower height makes it easy to grow these attractive cacti on shelves under artificial lighting or on a sunny window sill.

Mammillarias are easily recognized by their small bell-shaped flowers which grow in a ring-like pattern near the apex (top) of the stems. These flowers range in size from ¼ inch up to 2 inches in diameter. Colors include: reds, carmine, cerise, pinks, purple, yellow, white, creams and a combination of these colors. Following the blooming period, many species bear small, scarlet berry-like fruits which are very showy and attractive against the background of colorful spines. Most species bloom in the spring or summer between March and October.

For those who are unaware, Saskatchewan has its own native species, Mammillaria vivipara (Nutt.) Haw., which grows on south-facing slopes on the open prairie in the south, southwest and Qu'Apelle Valley regions. This cushion-like cactus grows in groups with each ball or stem reaching heights of 11/2 to 3 inches tall on average. The reddish brown spines grow in clusters of 3 to 8 at the tip of each tubercle. The 11/2 to 2 inch wide flowers are a lovely violet purple or dark-red with yellow centers. The yellow centers are due to the numerous yellow stamens. Pale-green fleshy berries develop after flowering, turning brown with age. These berries are sweet and edible when ripe. This cactus is hardy in zone 2, but it requires really good drainage and a sunny location to survive.

Detailed Description of a Few Mammillaria spp.

Mammillaria prolifera: So easy to grow, this small clumping speacies averaging 2 inches in height has ¼ inch long reddish brown central spines with white radial spines. The plant flowers freely in spring with creamy yellow flowers about ½ inch in diameter. Flowers are followed by attractive scarlet fruits averaging ½ inch long.

Mammillaria camptotricha: Commonly called the 'Birdsnest cactus', this beautiful cactus has long tubercles with ¾ inch long curved yellow hair like spines and ¾ inch wide white flowers. Under ideal conditions, this cactus blooms in spring, summer and fall. It forms clumps that average 4 inches high. This is another very easy to grow cactus.

Mammillaria pringlei: This is generally a solitary cactus that grows approx. 61/2 inches tall and 3 inches in diameter. The axils are wooly , radial spines white and spreading , and central spines recurved (curved backward), deep yellow to golden in color. The spines on this species seem to radiate light, almost making it appear to glow. The small red flowers are 3/8 inches long.

Mammillaria elongata: Commonly known as 'Golden stars', this popular indoor cactus forms long finger-like branches that grow both erect and prostrate forming club-like clusters. As the name suggests, the many tiny recurved spines are gold in color. Small white flowers are produced in spring.

Mammillaria candida: This beautiful solitary , globular cactus resembles a 3 in. wide snowball because its body is completely covered by 50 or more slender, spreading white radial spines. The central spines are stiff and also white in color. This cactus is very attractive when it blooms with its funnel-shaped pinkish flowers protruding through the white spines.

More Mammillaria spp. follow the care section of this column.

How To Care For Your Mammillaria spp.

Light: The large majority of this genus need full sun or bright light as they are desert cacti. The more spines or hairs on the cactus, the more light they require as the spines screen out the light from reaching the plants body. Mine do very well in a south window, blooming freely. They must continue to have bright light in winter to ensure the production of flower buds. 1400 foot candles of light is essential.

Water: During the growing season in spring and summer, just allow the soil to approach dryness before watering the plant thoroughly. Cactus, like any other plant must continue to grow during the growing season if they are to produce flowers the following spring. The use of clay flower pots helps prevent over-watering as they breathe through the sides. However, watering more often will be required. In fall and winter while they are resting (dormant), they should only be given water to prevent their stems from shriveling. They may not require watering at all during the winter months, or maybe only once or twice. The cooler the temperature is, the less water they will require.

Temperature: In spring and summer while they are actively growing and blooming, a range of 65-90 degrees F is satisfactory. In the fall and winter months, temperatures of 45-55 degrees F along with bright light and drier soil promotes the development of flower buds. A cool basement with a sunny south window or artificial lighting situated above the cacti is a good spot to locate cacti for the winter months.

Media: It is very important that the potting media be well drained. Cacti cannot stand wet roots for prolonged periods of time--root or stem rot will occur. The bottom one third of the flower pot should be filled with crocks (broken pieces of old clay pots) before the soil is added to the pot, or, fill the pot with soil and place it on a flat piece of rock in a catch basin so all excess water can drain from the flower pot after watering the plant. Always use a pot that is just slightly larger than the cactus you are planting to avoid excess moisture. Many prepackaged cactus soil mixes are available at garden centers, but I still prefer using 2 parts of sandy loam with equal parts of mixed perlite and coarse sand. Organic matter such as sphagnum moss is used sparingly if at all. To this mixture I add 1 tablespoon each of bonemeal and crushed limestone per gallon of mixture. The lime promotes good spine development and color while the bonemeal promotes a healthy root system and good flower bud development.

Feeding: If the potting media has been properly prepared with bonemeal and lime, no feeding is required the first year. Thereafter, once a month with a water soluable fertilizer which has trace minerals added such as l5-15-30 is a good cactus fertilizer. Fertilize your cacti only during the months in which they are actively growing, never while they are dormant. The exception to this rule is if you have a winter flowering cactus that is dormant in the summer months. Low percentage cactus fertilizers like the brand name 'Cactus Juice' (1-7-6) may be added with each watering in the growing season. Never use fertilizers with higher amounts of nitrogen as this leads to lank and weak growth of the stems with poor flowering qualities.

Repotting: Most cacti will do well in the same pot for 3-4 years before they need repotting. Remember to use a pot that is only one size larger when they are repotted. A sheet of newspaper folded over many times to about 2 inches wide or a good pair of leather gloves will be required when handling these spiny fellows. After repotting, do not water the cactus for at least a week so the injured roots have time to callous or heal. This will help prevent the roots from rotting. Repot cacti in the spring once active grow has started.

Propagation: With types that form clusters, it is very easy to remove a small stem (one little cactus) and set it's base in moist sand to start a new plant. Starting cactus from seed is a very interesting method of propagation. First, a little globular or round green mass grows and then from this mass the true cactus emerges or develops. They may need a year to grow before they are large enough to transplant into their own pots. Larger cacti that have become too long or old, or have rotted at the base may be saved by slicing straight through the top 2 -3 inches of the cactus with a sharp knife ( the length of the top stem section is not real crucial - it may be longer or shorter if necessary). This top section must be placed in a cool, dry spot out of the sun for at least a week before it is placed in a rooting media. A hard, dry callous will develop over the new wound during this time which prevents the new section from rotting when it is set in the rooting media. Do not over water the new section - keep it just moist. I use a special sand that has only a small percentage of clay in it to root all of my succulent cuttings. It works like magic!

Other Very Pretty and Interesting Species

Mammillaria baumii: white radial spines, pale yellow central spines, bright yellow scented flowers.		M. beiselli: white wool hair like bristles in axils, whitish-yellow radials, creamy white flowers with a reddish brown mid-stripe.
M. bocasana: known as "Powder puff" - an offsetting cactus, hairy like radial spines, central hooked spines, apricot to cream flowers - ½ inch across.		M. hahniana: known as 'old lady cactus', long, curly, hair-like white spines, cerise to reddish purple blossoms.
M. sempervivi: very short black spines - turning to white with time, cerise flowers (may be yellow or white) very easy to grow.		M. longiflora: long, hooked reddish brown or yellow spines, 1 inch wide pink flowers (sometimes striped). Do not water in winter to prevent rot.
M. parkinsonii: commonly called 'Owl's Eyes', black-tipped white spines, mounds by branching into two stems at each stem tip - the dark-tipped spines on the 2 new heads look like owl's eyes, cream or pink flowers in spring.		M. columbiana: golden yellow central spines, white bristle radial spines, pink flowers.
M. compressa: woolly axils, bristly white spines, purplish red flowers.		M. elegans: many needle-shaped white spines on cylindrical stems, red flowers.
M. geminispina: woolly white axils, soft white spines, carmine flowers.		M. heyderi: brown-tipped white spines. Flowers are white with red or pink.
M. senilis: white spines, large red flowers.		M. dehertiana: dark central spines, recurved white radials, large pinkish purple flowers with yellow stamens, very, very pretty.
M. zielmanniana: white radial spines, red brown centrals (one is hooked), purple pink flowers.

There are many more available species, each unique and beautiful in their own way.

Yucca After Bloom

What do I do with the hard stem in the middle of my yucca plant after the white flowers have died? Thanks kindly.

Yucca recurvifolia

After the white flowers have died on your yucca plant, the spent flower stalk or hard stem should be removed as soon as possible after blooming. It will depend on what species you are growing as to the method of removal. If you have the short single trunk species (sometimes multiple) like Yucca recurvifolia, Y. glauca or Y. gloriosa, simply cut the old flower stalk off just above the leaf rosette.

Yucca filimentosa

Remove flower stalks from species like Yucca filimentosa and Y. flaccida (low tufted kinds) by removing the flower stalk along with the entire rosette of leaves that has produced that flower stalk. By bending the stalk and leaf rosette over to one side, you will notice a root-like structure about 2 inches thick. Using a knife, cut or sever this woody stem-root and snap it off. Both the bloom stalk and rosette of leaves should come off at the same time. These rosettes should be removed along with the spent flower stalk because they only flower once. New blooms are produced on the new shoots or offsets that develop, and they will flower again in two years.

Keep your yuccas looking attractive by removing any dead leaves also. Tear them sideways and they'll peal off the stem or base easier than trying to pull them straight off the plant.

The Fall Leafdrop Phenomenon

Every fall deciduous trees and shrubs go through that transition period where their leaves turn from green to beautiful shades of yellow, red, orange, crimson and other colors. The autumn colors in zone 2 this year were brilliant and remained with us a bit longer than they normally do. These fabulous colors look even more beautiful when set against or amongst the dark green foliage of white and black spruce, as in the case of our boreal forest. To most folks, this is just the changing of the seasons with a couple of colorful weeks before 'Old Man Winter' sets in. But, what really causes these leaves to turn color and then drop off the trees?

Fall Leaves

Actually, it is a combination of naturally occurring chemical substances in the plants and the plants environment. These chemical substances, known as plant hormones, regulate the plants growth and development and when the plant is to grow and when the plant is not to grow. There are in total, five groups of these hormones, three of which promote plant growth and two of which inhibit plant growth. The three growth promoters are auxins, gibberellins and cytokinins. The two growth inhibitors are ethylene and abscisic acid. Now, all we have to know about these hormones at this point is that when the levels of growth promoters are higher than the levels of growth inhibitors, the plant is actively growing. When levels of growth inhibitors are higher than levels of growth promoting hormones, growth of the plant slows and stops.

Fall Leaves

Day length (photoperiod) and temperature regulate when these hormones become active in the plant. In spring, as the day length becomes longer and the temperatures warmer, growth promoters reach higher levels in the plant which starts the plant actively growing. In autumn, day length becomes shorter and the temperatures cooler, causing the growth inhibitors to reach higher levels than growth promoters in the plant. Ethylene and abscisic acid reach levels that override the growth promoters, causing the plant to go dormant.

Once the growth inhibitors reach higher levels than growth promoters, chlorophyll, the green pigment in plants, is lost. Other pigments than become more obvious in the leaves color. The yellow and orange pigments are called carotenoids and are quite obvious in trees and shrubs like poplars, green ash, chokecherry, birch, larch (our only deciduous conifer), currants, Siberian elm and saskatoons. Another pigment called anthocyanin is responsible for the reddish colors in the leaves of trees and shrubs such as dogwoods, bearberry, some maples, Shubert chokecherry, cotoneaster, Virginia creeper, mountain ash and pincherry, for examples.

Fall Leaves

The levels of ethylene and abscisic acid continue to build up as the days shorten and temperatures get cooler. At the base of the leaves petiole (leaf stalk) which is fastened to the twig or stem of the tree, a bump or thicker part of the petiole develops due to the build up of ethylene and absicsic acid. This bump is known as the abscission layer. Abscisic acid was named because of its association with leaf, flower and fruit abscission (to cut or fall off) of plants. You may notice this bump on the end of an apple stalk and other fruit also. As the chemicals build up in this abscission layer, the cells become softened and the leaf or fruit finally breaks away and falls to the ground. Immediately after leaf fall, a corky tissue develops, closing the wound on the stem side of the abscission layer. This healing layer of corky tissue forms the leaf scar on the twig. This leaf scar is located at a node, directly below a leaf bud.

If you look closely at the twigs on your trees and shrubs now that the leaves have fallen, you will notice that next springs leaf and flower buds (flower buds only on spring flowering plants) have all ready developed. The smaller buds are the leaf buds and the larger buds are the flower buds. These tiny, highly compressed leaves and flower buds are covered with scale-like structures called bud scales. These overlapping bud scales protect the delicate leaves and flower buds from the harsh winter climate. In this state, they are called dormant buds. These highly compressed leaf and flower buds grow very quickly in the spring because they have all ready been formed. This is why lilacs, for example, can have such beautiful large flowers so early in the spring.

Gardenia

I have a Gardenia plant I bought in the spring. In my sunroom the plant's leaves turn yellow and its newest ailment is that the leaves are drying up. It did well outside this summer on my front porch(very little direct sun). What does this plant need to be healthy, & when does it flower?

Gardenia jasminoides

The gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), also commonly called Cape Jasmine, and other varieties of the species can indeed be a challenging plant at the best of times. In most cases, these small treelike plants with large white, waxy, sweet-scented flowers (they have a jasmine like scent - the reason for its species Latin name) are usually treated as a potted seasonal plant (like an Easter lily) and then discarded. However, if the plant can be given the optimum conditions necessary for good health, it can bloom repeatedly indoors. Gardenia jasminoides veitchii blooms mainly in the winter months, whereas, G. jasminoides fortuniana blooms in the summer and is a better choice for houseplant culture as it is a little less demanding. Other varieties are available but are not as popular.

To answer the first part of the question, if the plant was brought directly into the sunroom without first gradually acclimatizing it to the different environmental conditions from outside to inside, this would certainly lead to stress of the plant and cause yellowing and drying or the leaves. The plant should be brought into the sunroom for a short period of time each day (about ½ hour to begin with) and then returned to its original spot out of doors. Gradually increase the amount of time the plant is left indoors every other day for at least a period of two weeks. By this time, (with most plants) the plant should have adjusted to its new environmental conditions.

The gardenia, however, is a lot more demanding. It also requires this acclimatization period, but, unless the sunroom has a high level of atmospheric humidity, bringing it in from the moist out of doors to a dry indoor atmosphere will certainly spell disaster. Furthermore, if the sunroom has much higher light intensity (much brighter than where it was located outside with very little direct sun), and the plant is located near glass where the light is intensified, this would lead to even more problems with yellowing and drying of leaves.

Many other factors may also cause this problem. The amount of watering will have to be adjusted from outside to inside conditions. The gardenia must have a well drained soil, but it must also have constant moisture. At no time should the soil be allowed to dry out. Gardenias require a very acidic soil (pH of 5.0 - 5.5) so, if the water you are using is of alkaline nature, the pH of the media will eventually change. The higher pH level of the media can than cause a problem known as chlorosis. In this case, the leaves are actually pale green to yellow with dark green veins. This problem is corrected by adding ½ ounce of either iron sulfate or iron chelate to a gallon of water and watering the plant once or twice weekly for a month.

Over watering, lack of nitrogen fertilizer, cold or hot drafts, poor drainage, being root or pot bound or insects can also cause yellowing or drying of leaves. To keep the gardenia plant healthy and flowering, it must have the following optimum conditions.

Media: It must be acidic (pH of 5.0-5.5) and have excellent drainage or porosity, while having the ability to hold moisture. Purchase pre-mixed acid-loving plant soil or use 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part perlite with a little crushed charcoal added to keep the soil from going sour.

Humidity: This plant must have high atmospheric humidity to succeed. Placing it on a tray of pebbles and water (the pot must not sit in the water) and spraying or misting it at least 3 times daily is a must.

Light: The plant will not flower unless it receives at least 4 hours of sunlight per day. The use of proper artificial lighting is recommended for periods of cloudy, dull weather. Give it full sun in winter and very light shade in the summer.

Temperature: The night temperature must not be higher than 60-62 degrees F or the plant will not produce flower buds. Daytime temperatures around 70 degrees F is what the plant prefers.

Watering: Keep the soil constantly moist, never allowing it to dry out, but do not over water. Use only soft, tepid water.

Feeding: The plant should be fed once a month with a liquid fertilizer. Use an acid-type fertilizer to help keep the media's acidity level up. Any fertilizer with a higher percentage of phosphorous promotes blooming.

Repotting: Every 2-3 years in the spring is generally sufficient, as long as the potting media remains acidic.

There is indeed very little more satisfying and rewarding than to bring a challenging plant such as a gardenia into full bloom. Good luck with your plant.

Norfolk Island Pine

Common Name: Norfolk Island Pine; Australian Pine

Botanical Name: Araucaria heterophylla

Plant Family: Araucariaceae

Description: A beautiful conifer (evergreen) foliage plant with needlelike leaves. The horizontal branches grow from the stem in whorls (at the same node or same place on the stem) in tiers (usually equally spaced distances) from 3 to 6 inches apart. It is a slow growing plant (3 - 6 inches per year) with a mature height averaging 6 feet and mature width of about 4 feet. The drooping branch tips give the plant a very formal and graceful look. Araucaria heterophylla Gracillis has narrower leaves than the species, giving it an even more graceful look. This easy to grow houseplant is one of my favorites.

Light: This plant must have at least 150 foot candles of light to prevent long, droopy branches. Bright indirect light is best, near a west window with a light curtain, for example. Direct sunlight can harm the foliage.

Water: Keep the soil constantly moist, but do not over water it. Over watering can lead to loss of branches.

Temperature: The best temperature range is in the low 50 degrees F at night and around 70 degrees F during the daytime, however, anywhere between 65 and 75 degrees F is satisfactory.

Media: Norfolk Island Pine does very well in the same soil recommended for African violets which can be purchased at any garden center or most local shopping centers. Repotting is usually not necessary for two to three years.

Feeding: Every three to four months, less often if light conditions are low. Use an organic fertilizer or 20-20-20 synthetic fertilizer when required.

Propagation: Not easy to propagate. Purchasing sturdy, healthy plants from a florist or greenhouse is the best method of acquiring a new plant. Avoid buying spindly plants as they will not improve.

Dos and Don'ts: Do not place your Norfolk Island Pine where the branches can be continually brushed or rubbed against. Do remove yellowing needles as they occur. On old plants, it is common for some of the lower branches to die. Simply remove them at the stem with a pair of sharp pruning shears to keep the plant looking beautiful.

Bringing In Plants for the Winter

I have had rubber plant on my patio this summer, as well as a fancy leaf plant. How can I bring these in the house this fall - without worrying that maybe bugs are on them. Is there a particular spray I can use? Thanks for any assistance you may offer.

When we bring in any plant from the outside to the inside of our homes, we are always at risk of inviting in unwanted guests. These are the precautionary steps to take when in this situation.

First, wash the large leaves and stems of your rubber plant with warm, soapy water using a soft sponge. This will remove dust and other debris from the plants along with (if there are any) insects and egg deposits. As for the fancy leaf plant, washing it is also recommended. Another suggestion is if the plants are not too large, they can be placed in the shower and given a forceful spraying on both the upper and under sides of the leaves. Large plants may be sprayed outside with a garden hose to dislodge any hiding insects.

Wash the outside surface of your pots with a 4% solution of water and household bleach, being careful not to get any solution in the pot itself.

The next step is to carefully examine the leaves on top and underneath for signs of insect damage and insects themselves. The stems, nodes and joints should also be carefully examined as this is where insects like to hide. Use a magnifying glass to detect the presence of very tiny insects like spider mites or mealybugs.

If insects are present, and too many to be removed by hand picking, a pyrethrin spray is registered for rubber plants, as is Malathion. Pyrethrin is less toxic than Malathion. DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS ON THE LABELS MUST BE READ AND FOLLOWED CAREFULLY WHEN USING ANY PESTICIDE.

There are various insecticide powders that can be sprinkled and worked into the top layer of soil to kill soil insects. Local garden centers or plant shops should be able to provide these.

I cannot suggest a registered insecticide for the fancy leaf plant without knowing the name of the plant. Some chemicals will injure the plants foliage or kill the plant. Check the labels on insecticide containers for the names of houseplants they can be used on.

The final step is to isolate the plants you bring in from all your other houseplants for at least 3 - 6 weeks by keeping them in a separate room (if possible). Any insect problems should be noticeable by this time. If the plants are severely infested with insects, it may be wise to throw them out, pot and all, even though this is hard to do.

Fall is Bulb Planting Time

Now that September has arrived with her display of beautiful colors, it is time to think about early spring colors. This can be achieved by planting a variety of early spring flowering bulbs. We must not wait much longer in our zone, as the bulbs require several weeks to become established (take root) before the ground freezes. This is also the proper time to plant or transplant lily bulbs, other overcrowded bulbs and some of the herbaceous perennials.

Preparing the Site

The most important factor to remember when choosing a site for planting your bulbs is that it must have Good, Good Drainage. If you choose a site that has the melting snow water lingering around for two or three weeks, chances are your bulbs will die. Both heavy clay soil and sandy soil should be given ample amounts of organic matter like well-rotted manure, compost, or sphagnum peat moss and worked to a depth of at least 12 inches. Bulbs that must be planted deeply require at least 2-4 inches of good soil under their bases in order to establish a good root system. Bone meal or a bulb fertilizer with a higher percentage of phosphorous should be incorporated and thoroughly mixed with the soil. A couple of ounces of 13-26-0 per square yard is adequate if you are using chemical fertilizers. Phosphorous moves very slowly in the soil, so it must be placed where it is immediately available to the bulbs roots. After planting your bulbs, they should be thoroughly watered and kept moist to encourage good root development. Just before the ground freezes, they should once again be watered thoroughly.

Planning The Landscape

Flower Beds

Whether you decide to plant a few bulbs, or massed beds of bulbs, there is more to designing the landscape than just planting them. Flowering bulbs look much better planted in clumps or drifts as opposed to single plants or single rows. Try to plant them so one variety merges into the other to avoid a spotty look. Planting a few varieties is much more effective than planting many kinds close together. When planning beds, gentle curves are far more pleasing than straight lines. Spring flowering bulbs can be very beautiful by either blending them harmoniously or having them contrast sharply. The choice is yours.

To enjoy the spring bulbs, try to locate them where they can be seen from an inside window of the home. Bulbs with fragrant flowers should be located near sidewalks, driveways or an open window where there perfumes may be enjoyed. As with all plants, shorter varieties should be placed in front of taller varieties. Locate beds in front of shrub beds to produce a strikingly beautiful effect. Bulbs that do well in the shade are very much at home when naturalized amongst trees or woodlots. Bulbs with tiny flowers are much more dramatic when planted in great masses and(or) naturalized amongst shrubs or the lawn.

When growing spring flowering bulbs such as tulips or daffodils, you must remember that once they have completed blooming, there will be no flowers in these areas for the longest part of the growing season. For those who love to design different beds each year, with different varieties and colors, they simply dig up the beds and plant annuals. However, for the average gardener this is just too costly. There are other ways to hide the yellowing foliage of your bulbs as summer approaches. This foliage must not be removed as soon as the flowers fade as it is needed to produce food for the bulb to carry it through dormancy. Annuals may be planted over the bulbs as the foliage begins to fade or the bulbs may be planted amongst perennials which will fill in the bear spots as they grow and develop. Combining bulbs, annuals and perennials carefully in the same beds can give dramatic and beautiful results. With careful planning and a little imagination, you can create breathtaking beauty in your landscape with flowering bulbs.

Varieties and Planting Depths for Bulbs

Siberian squill (Scilla sibirica)

The following planting depths are recommended for good loam or sandy loam soils. If the soil is heavy clay, the bulbs should be planted less deeply. For example, tulips may be planted 8 inches deep in good loam soil, but should only be covered with 5-6 inches of soil in heavy clay. In very sandy soil, planting them an inch or two deeper is beneficial. The depth in which you plant your bulbs is determined by the size of the bulb. Large bulbs average 8 inches deep, whereas smaller bulbs average 3-4 inches deep.

In zone 2, the list of hardy spring flowering bulbs is limited. All bulbs should be mulched with 4-6 inches of grass clippings or clean straw as soon as the ground starts to freeze. Mulching gives the bulbs extra time to develop a good root system by preventing the ground from freezing as early as well as protecting them from our harsh winter conditions.

The first bulbs to show in our garden are the lovely little blue flowered Siberian squill (Scilla sibirica) and the Striped squill (Puschkinia libanitica), white with blue stripes. Scilla sibirica alba and Puschkinia libanotica alba have pure white flowers. Scilla sibirica taurica has bright blue flowers. This group averages 4-6 inches in height. Plant them 4 inches deep and space them 3-6 inches apart. These little fellows are extremely hardy and have been multiplying in our garden from the first bulbs I planted 24 years ago.

Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis)

The sweetly fragrant Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis) is an excellent bulb (known as pips) to use as a groundcover in moist, shady areas because, unlike most bulbs, the leaves remain green all summer. The pure white bell-shaped flowers grow along a stiff stem. This plant will spread very rapidly, so be cautious as to where it is planted. Its average height is 8 inches tall. Plant the pips 1-2 inches deep and space them 6-8 inches apart.

Tulipa tarda

Of the many kinds of tulips and tulip species, only a few prove hardy in zone 2. With proper care, Darwin and cottage tulips have done well in our garden , to the point of increasing in numbers each year. They come in a variety of colors and heights. Tulipa tarda and Tulipa kolpakowskiana are also hardy in our zone. The former has yellow and white flowers that grow on 2-3 inch long stems This tulip is an excellent choice for the rock garden because of its many flowers and shortness in height. Tulipa kolpakowskiana has yellow flowers, sometimes with a tinge of red or green on the outer petals, that arise on 10-14 inch long stems. This species is very attractive due to a slight waxy bloom of the leaves. For tulip lovers, there are many other kinds and species worth trying. Plant tulips 8-9 inches deep in our zone and space them 4-6 inches apart.

Marieke Daffodils

With good shelter, mulch and winter snow cover, daffodils (Narcissus) have done very well in our garden. They have multiplied to the point of overcrowding and required transplanting. The dwarf varieties which grow from 6-8 inches tall prove the hardiest. They come in yellows, whites and oranges. Daffodils should be planted 6-8 inches deep from the base to the top of the bulb and spaced 6-8 inches apart. Combining beds of yellow daffodils and blue flowered grape hyacinths is indeed breathtaking.

The grape hyacinth is not a true hyacinth as it belongs to the genus Muscari. The true hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) are unfortunately not hardy in our zone. I have tried them four times with failure each time. The dense spikes of grape hyacinth open in May and early June, showing off their nodding flowers on stems 6-8 inches tall. Two species that are hardy in our zone include Muscari armeniacum (often referred to as ‘Heavenly Blue’) and Muscari botryoides. There are also white and pink colored varieties of Muscari botryoides. Proper planting depth is 3 inches with spacing of 2-4 inches.

Ixiolirion

Another rare flowering bulb, Ixiolirion, produces lavender blue flowers on 12 inch stems. The leaves are very grass like in appearance. Proper planting depth is 4 inches with spacing of 3-4 inches between bulbs.

The yellow flowering Fritillaria pallidiflora and Fritillaria pudica are both hardy in our zone and produce their nodding flowers on stems 9 inches long on the former and a bit shorter on the latter species. Proper planting depth is 4 inches with spacing of 3-4 inches apart.

Purple Sensation Allium aflatunense

Flowering onions (Allium spp.) make a lovely addition to any garden. The following species have proven hardy in our garden. (Allium schoenoprasum) the common chive makes a nice flowering plant. Allium aflatunense ‘Purple Sensation’ (3 feet high), A. christophii (14 inches high) and A. giganteum (3-4 feet high) have beautiful purple toned flowers. Blue Globe onion (Allium azureum) grows 12 inches tall and produces a ball of deep blue flowers. Allium unifolium has very light blue to pinkish flowers on stems 18 inches tall. Ostrowsky onion (Allium ostrowskianum) has rose-pink flowers on 9 inch stems while Allium moly (Golden Garlic) produces golden colored flowers on 11 inch stems. Allium cowanii (Naples Onion) has fragrant white flowers on 1 foot high stems. There are many other hardy species to choose from. Plant large Allium bulbs 6 inches deep and 12-18 inches apart. Small Allium bulbs should be planted 3-4 inches deep with a spacing of 4-6 inches.

Crocus Anemone patens

As much as we may wish, the real Crocus (actually a corm, not a bulb) genus as we know them, are not hardy in our zone. The local plant everyone calls prairie crocus is definitely not a real crocus, but a member of the genus Anemone. Anemone patens is the correct botanical name for this plant. Bulbocodium vernum and Colchicum are related to the crocus and have crocus-like flowers. These two are generally hardy in our area. These should be planted 4 inches deep and spaced 2-6 inches apart.

There are other bulbs that may do well under good sheltered locations or near basement foundations, but as a rule they are not reliably hardy in zone 2.

Lily (Lillium spp.) bulbs should be planted or transplanted at this time of the year. This group of plants deserves a column of their own. However, to get on with early autumn planting of your bulbs, the proper depths for stem rooting types is 10 inches deep. This depth enables good root development on the underground stem parts. Basal rooting types (roots form at the base of the bulb) should be planted 6-8 inches deep.

Siberian iris Iris sibirica

Perennials that favor fall planting include peonies (Paeonia spp.) and Siberian iris (Iris sibirica and hybrids). Peonies should have at least 3-5 pink buds on their fleshy root divisions. The buds are covered with 2 inches of soil when planted. When planting Siberian iris, just barely cover the rhizome with soil.

On a final note, as soon as the leaves have dropped from deciduous trees and shrubs, they along with evergreens are dormant and may be transplanted. The roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. This new root growth gets the plant off to a better start in the spring. Water them thoroughly after transplanting and mulch them with a 4-6 inch layer of organic matter to prevent the soil from drying.

Creeping Phlox

I need to know if there is any information about or maybe where to obtain information on an outside garden plant by the name of Creapin flock. Any info at all would be helpful.

Creeping Phlox Phlox stolonifera

I would have to believe the outside garden plant you are referring to is creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera). As the Latin name suggests, this species spreads by underground stolons, forming large mats of foliage. Small cymes (many flowers) arise from the foliage in shades of either purple or violet colors. This plant makes an excellent ground cover because of it's mat-forming habit. This plant is also very suited to shady places.

Cultivars (cultivated varieties) of Phlox stolonifera include Phlox stolonifera 'Lavender Lady' which has large lavender blue flowers and P. stolonifera 'Blue Ridge' which has more erect stems and masses of large soft blue flowers.

Another neat mat forming phlox which spreads by creeping stems is Phlox adsurgens (periwinkle phlox). This species has slender shiny leaves with arching or dome-like clusters of rosy-white to salmon colored flowers. This phlox prefers cool, shaded conditions with an acidic (acid) soil.