Thin a Snake Plant

My wife has a mother's-in-law tongue plant which is in an approximately 2 gallon pot, kept indoors at a south window. She would like to know if it would be ok to thin it out during the winter season. It seems to be overcrowded in the pot. And how we should we go about it? Thank you very much.

Mother-in-law Tongue Sanseveria

Early spring is usually the best time of the year to divide or transplant most houseplants, including this one, but the Sanseveria (mother's-in-law tongue) is a tough plant and can be successfully divided or transplanted at any time of the year. The most important thing is not to overwater the freshly potted pieces during the establishment period.

Individual 'offsets' or ' pups' are often used to propagate new plants by simply removing the plant from the container, removing the 'offsets' (smaller plants) by slicing through the rhizome which attaches it to the mother plant and then potting them up in new compost. They should be planted in a new container that is just big enough to accommodate the roots without overcrowding them, and at the same depth as they were in the old container. The best time to transplant these 'offsets' are when they are about 6 to 8 inches tall. The 'offsets' will establish themselves more quickly if there are some roots already developed on the rhizome.

To divide a much older, over-crowded plant, remove the plant from the container. If the roots are pushing themselves against the walls of the container, it is sometimes much easier to break or cut away the old container to remove the rootball. The next step is to simply pull the roots and individual clumps apart with your hands. Large rhizomes will have to be cut through with a sharp knife in order to divide them into smaller pieces. Each piece to be potted should have at least 3 or 4 leaves as well as some good healthy roots attached to the rhizome portion. All rotten, withered or dead roots should be removed at this time. The tall, old leaves should not be cut back because once the growing tip is removed from the leaf, it can no longer grow. The plants may have to be tied loosely to a stake that is set in the pot at the time of planting in order to hold the plant upright until it becomes firmly established in the new pot. Sulphur can be brushed on the cut ends of the rhizomes before repotting to discourage rot.

For the potting medium, use a commercial succulent and cacti soil or any gritty, porous compost that drains freely. To this soil, add one or two tablespoonfuls of bonemeal per gallon of soil to provide the necessary nutrients. The plant rarely requires fertilizing between repottings and can go 3 or 4 years before repotting is required. Crocks (broken pieces of clay pot) can be placed on the bottom of the pot to help provide good drainage, but this is not entirely necessary as long as the pot is not allowed to sit in the drainage water after the plant has been watered.

To repot the individual pieces, fill the pot with only enough soil so that when the plant is potted up, there is at least 1 inch of space between the soil's surface and the containers rim. This makes watering the plant much easier. The pieces should be planted (covered with soil) at the same depth as they were in the old container. The new container should be just big enough to accommodate the roots without over-crowding them, otherwise, if the new pot is too large for the new plant, the soil remains too wet for too long and rotting of the roots is more likely to occur. Spread the roots over the soil in the pot and then add more soil to the pot, working it in and around the roots with your fingers. Firm the soil around the roots as you go, continually adding more soil until the roots are covered. Do not pack the soil around the roots.

Water each pot thoroughly and set them in a bright spot out of direct sun until they are well established. Do not water the plants again until the soil's surface is quite dry. Over watering the plants before they have become established (well rooted) is the main cause of failure. Once the plant shows signs of growth, it can be returned to its sunny location.

Prune Poinsettia

I have a poinsetta plant from last year that is thriving outdoors in a pot. It's now quite tall. Can I prune it? and if so when? now? in the spring?

Euphorbia pulcherrima

The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), blooms naturally in the wild during the month of December. The buds are formed when the nights become progressively longer during the autumnal equinox. Therefore, the plant must be in full growth by September in order to form the buds which develop into those beautiful colored bracts. The true flowers are very small and hardly noticeable. Even so, when purchasing a new poinsettia from a floral shop, one should choose a plant whose little true flower buds have not yet opened. A plant with un-opened flower buds will give the longest period of bloom.

So, to answer the question, the proper time to cut back the poinsettia is as soon as all the flower bracts have faded or fallen. If the bracts fade or fall quite some time prior to May, cut the plant only part way back (about 1/3 of the total height), keep it on the dry side, and store it in a dimly lit spot with a temperature near 50 to 55 ° F.

When May arrives, cut the plant back even more, leaving only 4 to 6 inch stubs ( if you have been lucky to have the plant bloom until May, it's also time to cut it back leaving only 4 to 6 inch stubs). Remove the rootball from the pot and remove some of the old potting soil from around the roots. Repot the plant in fresh commercially prepared potting soil being sure that soil has good draining properties. Place the pot in a spot that receives at least 4 hours of direct sun per day and resume watering. Let the media dry slightly between thorough waterings. The poinsettia is a bit fussy, so be sure there are no drafts where it is growing. The plant flourishes when night temperatures are near 60° F. and daytime temperatures near 70° F. or higher. If the potting media is a soilless mix, fertilize only in spring and summer with a complete balanced fertilizer. Miracle-Gro 15-30-15 is a good plant food when used according to the manufactures directions.

When the new shoots are at least 4 inches tall, remove all but 4 or 5 of the strongest. These will develop large flower bracts. Use the remaining shoots to propagate new plants by inserting them into either a moist peatmoss and sand mixture or vermiculite. Try to keep the medium near a temperature of 70° F. and place the potted shoots in a clear plastic bag to keep them warm and humid until they have rooted.

Starting around September 21st, the plant must be given 14 hours of total darkness per day for approximately 8 weeks ( or until flower buds have formed), at which time it can again be treated like a normal houseplant. Covering the plant with a lightproof cover is the safest way of insuring this total darkness. Any interruption in the schedule of this dark period can prevent bud formation.

Arborvitaes with Yellowing Leaves

I planted 145 Emerald Green Arborvitaes in the spring and they now have a yellow cast and not the deep green. I am concerned for them to make it through the winter. We have had temperatures in the 70's and 2 frosts thus far. I used Miracid 2-weeks ago because someone told me they needed the iron to stop the yellowing. Now they look like they are turning more yellow. Help.

Thuja occidentalis

It is common for many of the Arborvitae, including Emerald Green ( Thuja occidentalis 'Emerald Green' ) to turn yellowish, bronze or brownish with the arrival of autumn. It is a natural occurring condition which is triggered by the shortening daylength (photoperiod) and cooler temperatures. This would seem to be the cause with all of the trees turning at the same time. ' Emerald Green' has a tendency to turn yellowish-green and sometimes even brownish with the arrival of autumn. Thuja plicata and its cultivars are the most resistant to this browning. If it were another cause such as a disease, insect infestation, chemical spray or drought for examples, it would be more likely that only the odd tree or perhaps a few patches would appear discolored, not the whole lot all at once.

As for adding iron, this would only be necessary if the trees were showing signs of an iron dificiency, and there is an actual shortage of iron in the soil. Adding any type of fertilizer when a plant is dormant or going into dormancy usually does more harm than good. Nitrogen fertilizer helps prevent conifers from winter browning as long as it is applied to the soil in time for the plants to take it up before they go dormant. This can be risky at the best of times as well. Trees can put out a serge of new growth which will not have time to harden off before cold weather arrives, resulting in cell damage and death to those tender shoots.

With a mild iron dificiency, interveinal chlorosis of the leaves is obvious. The leaf veins will appear usually dark green in color, whereas, the leaf tissue between the veins will appear yellow ( chlorotic ). With a severe case of an iron dificiency, the entire leaf will become chlorotic, completely yellow to almost white in color. In either case, an iron dificiency is first noticed on the new leaves of the plant. The older fully developed or mature leaves are not generally affected.

Quite often 'Lime- induced Chlorosis' could be the problem, in which case adding iron to the soil or to the plant as a foliar spray would not help the plant or solve the problem. Without going into too much detail, if a soil has a very high pH ( normally a calcareous soil with a high concentration of lime (calcium carbonate)), a high concentration of bicarbonate ions can build up in the plants tissue. These ions (negatively charged) prevent iron from moving within a plant from the older plant tissue to younger plant tissue. So, if lime-induced chlorosis were the problem, the soil may have ample amounts of iron, but the plant would not be able to use it. Taking soil samples and having them analized (or getting your own soil testing kit) is the only way of knowing the pH of a soil. A soil's pH can be lowered by adding elemental sulphur or spaghnum peat moss.

Arborvitae must always have a moist soil for their shallow root system, but at the same time the soil must be one that has good drainage. The soil should be thoroughly soaked prior to winter to supply the leaves with much needed moisture to help prevent desiccation of the leaves from the sun and drying winds. In late winter, warm spells cause the tree to thaw and moisture is lost through the leaves, but because the ground is still frozen and the roots are inactive, this moisture cannot be replaced. Many parts of the plant than simply dry out and die. Mulching the soil with a 4 to 6 inch layer of organic mulch is a good practice at any time of the year.

I hope this is the answer to your question. You may want to inspect the trees more closely for signs of disease or insects, or check to see if any spraying has been done in the area. If chemicals such as Round-Up have been used to control weeds near the trees, the trees can absorb the chemical and die within a year. Excess amounts of fertilizer can soon kill a tree. Dried out roots (in the containers) before the trees were planted can result in yellowing of a tree and eventual death several months after they have been planted. Hopefully, it is just the natural yellowing of the tree. After a few warm weeks in the spring, the trees should regain their natural green color.

Trees for Partly Shady Locations

What tree can be planted when there is some shade from a willow oak and a maple tree? There would be some sun available to the new tree.

Prunus laurocerasus

Almost any tree will grow in this location if it receives at least 4 - 6 hours of sun per day. Of course, when choosing a tree, other factors such as soil pH, shelter and drainage must be considered as well for optimum health of that particular tree. A tree that does not receive a full days sunshine will grow at a much slower rate than normal until its top growth is above the shade of other trees.

The amount of available space must also be considered when choosing a tree. The new tree should be planted far enough away from the other trees so that when they have all reached maturity, the widest branches of each tree should only just touch each other. If the new tree is planted too close to the other trees, it will probablly develop into a very unbalanced specimen. Most of the branches will grow on the side farthest away from the other trees where there is more light and no interference from other tree branches. The new tree would also have to compete with the heavy feeder roots of the established trees, so proper watering and feeding must be administered to get it off to a good start.

So, if there is ample room, soil conditions are o.k. for the specimen chosen, and the tree will recieive at least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, there is an unlimited variety of trees to choose from. If however, there is very little sun during the day (less than 4 hours), the following trees and tree-like shrubs will grow in partial shade. Very few trees or shrubs will survive in dense shade. One small tree that will perform well in deep shade is Prunus laurocerasus. The other trees listed perform well in direct sun or partial shade. There is, of couse, many others that will do well in partial shade, but the following list describes some of the finest ornamental specimens available.

A note on hardiness zones of trees and shrubs is that the zones mentioned are only guides as to the hardiness of a plant. Trees and shrubs will often survive winters in colder zones than the ones listed if micro-climates, good shelter from prevailing winds and snow cover prevail.

The height of the tree given is also an average size as trees will vary in size depending on the growing conditions of that location.

Prunus laurocerasus (Cherry laurel)

Hardy 6 US, 7 Canada Height 20' (') indicates feet

A very shade tolerant broad-leaf evergreen. The leaves are large, dark, leathery and shiny. In mid-spring, single white flowers appear on racemes (typical of cherries) and develop into small red cherries which eventually darken to a purplish-black color. All parts of the plant are harmful if eaten.

There are many different Cornus species and their cultivars which grow well in shade, with some species performing better in shade than direct sun. The ones listed make excellent small trees.

Cornus controversa

Cornus controversa (Giant dogwood)

Hardy 4 US, 5b Can Height 60'

The branches grow horizontally or in tiers. Clusters of cream-colored flowers appear in late spring. Fruits are bluish-black in color in autumn. Leaf color in autumn is purple-red. A very beautiful tree. C. controversa 'Variegata' is slower growing than the species and has pale yellow, white or silver margins on the more pointed leaves.

Cornus florida

Cornus florida (Eastern dogwood or Flowering dogwood)

Hardy 5 US, 6 Can Height 40'

This tree is often considered one of the very best ornamental small deciduous trees. An attractive feature of the tree is the horizontal positioning of the branches, giving the tree a flat top appearance. The flower clusters which appear in late spring are made up of four notched white bracts which surround the true inconspicuous flowers. Autumn leaf color is a brilliant scarlet red. Clusters of brilliant red berries are striking in autumn. There are many available cultivars of Cornus florida including these examples:

C. florida 'Apple Blossom' - pink and white flower bracts
C. f. ' Cherokee Chief' - ruby red or deep rose red flower bracts
C. f. 'Cloud Nine' - large, showy white bracts
C. f. 'Fastigata' - upright habit of tree while young, later bending back to the horizontal position common to the species.
C. f. 'First Lady' - yellow variegated leaves
C. f. 'Gigantea' - very large flower bracts
C. f. 'Magnifica' - flower bracts are 3 1/2 - 4 inches across
C. f. 'Pendula' - as the name suggests, the tree has stiff pendulous branches
C. f. 'rubra' - young leaves sometimes reddish, flower bracts rosy red to pink, not as hardy as the species.
C. f. 'Rainbow' - large white bracts, deep yellow and green variegated leaves turning to purplish-red with scarlet in autumn
C. f. 'Spring Song' - rose red bracts
C. f. ' Sweetwater Red' - foliage often reddish, red flower bracts
C. f. 'White Cloud' - very showy with a large number of large creamy-white flower clusters. Young leaves are bronze colored in the spring.
C. f. 'Xanthocarpa' - notably different with yellow fruits

Cornus kousa

Cornus kousa (Japanese dogwood)

Hardy zone 5 US, 6 Canada Height 21'

This is a very elegant dogwood which has flower bracts that are pointed at the tips instead of being round and notched like most dogwood flower bracts. The numerous white flower bracts appear on the upper sides of the horizontal branches in June. Leaf color in autumn varies from crimsom to scarlet to bronze. The interesting fruits that hang from the stems in fall resemble either raspberries or strawberries. A very interesting feature of this tree is the trunk bark which exfoliates (peels) and exposes patches of lighter colored bark. A variety of C. kousa, chinensis (Chinese dogwood), is not as dense, is taller, and sometimes has slightly larger flower bracts and larger leaves than the species. 'Milky Way' is a beautiful, heavy flowering cultivar of the variety chinensis. Cultivars of Cornus kousa include:

C. k. 'Snowboy' - grayish-green leaves variegated with patches of white or yellow
C. k. 'Gold Star' - The leaves are blotched with golden-yellow in the center. Autumn leaf color is red and purple.
C. k. 'Satomi' - pink flower bracts, purple-red leaf color in autumn

Cornus mas

Cornus mas (Cornelian Cherry)

Hardy zone 4 US, 4b Can Height 24'

This interesting small tree produces small yellow flowers on its twigs in winter. The bright red cherry like fruits are edible. Autumn leaf color in tones of purple or red. Cornus mas 'Variegata' has leaves margined with white and C. m. 'Flava' has yellow fruits.

Cornus macrophylla

Cornus macrophylla (Largeleaf dogwood)

Hardy to zone 6, this beautiful tree often reaching a height of 45 feet is noted more for it's beautiful foliage than the small flower clusters. The leaves are often 3 1/2" wide and 3 1/2 - 7" long. Nevertheless, the flowers appear in July and August when most trees are not in flower, making it an outstanding tree in summer. Bluish-black berries follow the flowering period.

Viburnum Lantana (Wayfaring tree)

Zone 2 U.S., 2b Canada

This small tree averaging 15 feet in height produces creamy white flowers in late sping followed by red, oblong fruits which blacken at maturity.

Viburnum lentago

V. lentago (Nannyberry)

Hardy to zone 2 U.S., zone 2 Canada and reaching a height of 30 feet, the tree produces shiny green leaves which turn purplish red in autumn. The small flowers are in large, flat clusters and are very showy. The fruits which follow turn from green to yellowish to red to blue and black.

V. sieboldii (Siebold Vieburnum)

Hardy zone 4 U.S., zone 5 Canada Height 30 feet

The tree is beautiful with it's lustrous, 3 - 5 inches long, dark, wrinkled leaves. Clusters of white flowers are followed by bright red fruits which turn black at maturity and fall off, but the red stalks remain on the tree for several weeks, giving the tree a red tinge.

Viburnum rufidulum

V. rufidulum (Southern Black Haw)

Hardy zone 6 U.S., zone 7 Canada Height 30 feet

Beautiful lustrous, dark green leaves turn a rich red in autumn. White flowers followed by dark blue fruits.

V. prunifolium (Black Haw)

Hardy zone 3 U.S. and zone 4 Canada. Height 15 feet

Flat clusters of white flowers followed by blue to black edible fruits. The leaves turn shiny red in autumn.

Thuja occidentalis (American Arborvitae)

A shade tolerant tree, the height of this species is 60 feet and the tree is hardy to zone 2.

Thuja orientalis

Thuja orientalis (Oriental Arborvitae)

Hardy zone 6. Height 50 feet.

Now more popular in mild climates than T. occidentalis.

Tilia americana (American Linden)

Needs moist soil, but is shade tolerant. Hardy to zone 2 and grows to a height of 120 feet. The leaves are large, coarsely toothed and turn brownish quite early in the season. Flowers are small and fragrant. Not a tree for a small yard.

Ilex verticallata

Other trees tolerant of some shade include Amelanchier sp. (Serviceberries) - zone 2, height 25 - 55 feet; Cercis canadensis (Eastern Redbud) - zone 4, height 36 feet; Ilex sp. (Hollies) - zones 5 -7, depending on the species, height 20 - 70 feet; and Prunus pensylvanica (Pin Cherry) - zone 2, height 30 feet.

Different Kinds of Ponytail Plants

A friend of mine has a house plant which she calls a "ponytail plant". I ordered one for myself from a local florist but it did not look like my friend's when it arrived. The leaves on hers curl around and around like curling ribbon on a wrapped present. Do you know what her plant might be? Are there different varieties of the ponytail plant and maybe I got the wrong one? Thanks for any help.

Beaucarnea recurvata

I could only guess at what her plant might be without actually seeing it or a picture of it. There are indeed other plants whose leaves curl around and around at the ends as you describe. One very easy recognizable characteristic with the genus Beaucarnea (and there are several species), is that they all form a caudex at their base. This caudex is round or globular (like a softball) and it is either woody or fleshy. The caudex develops either below ground level or at ground level. If both of the plants have this round structure at the base of the plant, chances are you both have 'Ponytail plants'. Yours may not necessarily be the wrong one, just a different species.

Beaucarnea gracilis

Beaucarnea recurvata has thin, smooth edged, 3 to 6 foot long leaves (at maturity) which taper and recurve at the ends such as you describe, though with most specimens, not quite as curly as you describe. B. longifolia and B. bigelovi are quite similar to B. recurvata.

B. gracilis is quite different, having short, broad leaves with rough edges, grey in color and growing straight out from the stems. B. recurvata var 'glauca' has leaves which are blue-gray in color. There are other species of Beaucarnea as well.

Spidermites

I have a problem with spidermites on a jasmine plant. I recently bought a jasmine plant at a nursery. The plant was healthy and pest free but has developed an infestation of spidermites. I have had jasmine plants before and this seems to be a recurring problem. Note: I used a new pot and bought new potting soil when I transplanted it from the nursery's container.

Spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis)

Spidermites are normally a problem when the temperature is too warm and the humidity levels are too low in the home. Try lowering the temperature, if possible, to 60 - 65 degrees F. at night and increase the humidity levels around the plant by misting it in the morning and setting the pot on a pebble tray filled with water. Do not let the pot sit in the water of course. Place pans of water near all of the heat registers in the home also. Spidermites thrive in hot, dry conditions but do not generally become a problem when temperatures are cooler and the air very humid.

To rid the plant of the spidermites. first remove any really badly infested leaves and then place the potted plant in the shower for a couple of days and spray it several times a day with a fairly good force of water, being sure to spray underneath the leaves as well. Remove any webbing if it is present as the mites hide behind it.

After doing this, spray the plant with a pyrethrum spray or use safers insecticidal soap and be sure to cover all parts of the plant, especially underneath the leaves where the mites usually dwell. Repeat the applications every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 5 weeks to kill any re-appearing spidermites that hatch from deposited eggs.

Spidermites will hide behind baseboards and other places, so constant monitoring of houseplants is necessary. Pyrethrum may be sprayed along baseboards to help control the insects if children or pets are not in the home. ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS WHEN USING PESTICIDES! If it is not too cold outside, the plant should be taken out of doors and sprayed and then brought back into the home.

Transplanting Fig Tree

I have a dark purple edible fig tree transplanted into its spot 10 years ago. It is already Thanksgiving in New York and it must be moved before next summer. When and how or can it be done. PLEASE HELP.

Fig Tree (Ficus carica)

Your dark purple edible fig tree can be transplanted to a new location as long as a sufficient amount of roots remain with the tree when it is dug up. The 'rule of thumb' is to have a 1 foot in diameter rootball for every 1 inch in diameter of tree trunk (located at ground level). For example, if the trunk is 3 inches in diameter, the rootball should be 3 feet in diameter. With trees this size, a mechanical tree spade is normally used to move them. If a machine is unable to get close enough to the tree due to the trees location and (providing the tree is not too large), you may try digging it by hand. Prune the branches back 1 to 2 feet to compensate for the loss of roots once the tree is dug. Cut them back to healthy buds.

Start by digging around the perimeter of the tree at the appropriate distance from the trunk. Dig down 10 to 12 inches if possible. Don't be affraid to cut clean through the large roots near the edge where you start digging. Keep pushing the spade inwards and prying upwards on the spade as you continue to dig around the tree, working your way towards the center of the tree. When you reach the center of the tree, you will probably have to cut throught the taproot to free the tree completely. Try to keep the soil attached to the roots and have someone help you lift it unto a large sheet of plastic which can be wrapped around the rootball to prevent it from drying out. If the dirt falls off the roots, wet the roots down and wrap them up with moist peatmoss (or any moist material) in a sheet of plastic as soon as the tree is dug. To replant your tree, refer to 'The Fruit Garden' in the archives for planting instructions.

Fig trees can be planted in early spring before growth starts, or they may be planted in the fall if there is at least a good month before the ground freezes. The roots will continue to grow in the fall once the tree is dormant as long as the ground has not frozen. Do not plant them in late fall.

Figs root very easily from cuttings, so save several of the branches you prune off the tree to start a new tree, just in case the original tree does not survive the transplanting. Fig trees often produce fruit from cuttings in 2 years.

Ripening Figs

My cuttings are two year old and are growing nicely and producing some figs. Do the figs ripen on the tree or should they be picked green? Some people put a tent over them... is it to temperate on the Westcoast for them to ripen naturally? They still have fruit (Nov. 9/010). Should these be picked off, or left alone? The leaves fell off two days ago. When do I need to prune for this zone?

Thank-you.

Fig Tree Fruit (Ficus carica)

Figs must be allowed to ripen on the tree. They should not be left on the tree for too long once they have ripened. The tents are used to shelter the trees and retain heat at night which in turn speeds up ripening of the fruit (figs).

Figs trees tend to 'bleed', so prune your trees only in the dormant season (late winter or early spring), about two to three weeks before any trees or shrubs start to leaf out in your area. Unwanted suckers should be removed as soon as they are noticed at any time of the growing season.

Rubber Plant Propagation

I have a large ficus plant. I think it's also called rubber plant. It is very much "out of control" and I'm trying to take some cuttings to start a new, smaller plant from it. What would be the best way of doing it to make sure that it'll take?

Rubber Plant

The method I always use, and it has never failed me, is to air-layer the rubber plant. This, however, is best done in March or April. This method can be used now, but it may take a lot longer for the plant to root. If the plant has more than one stem, you can air-layer each one of these.

First, look at the top part of the plant and decide where it will make a nice looking plant. The length dosn't really matter, although any length over 12 inches may require staking when you pot it up after it has rooted. There should be at least 6 leaves on the top part which will be the new plant.

On a straight part of the stem, just below the top portion you choose to be the new plant, strip off several of the lower leaves right next to the stem. About 3 - 4 inches below the bottom leaves of the top portion,cut a horizontal slit into the stem about 1/4 inch deep. Turn the knife up at this point and make an upward cut 1 inch long. Stick a piece of wooden match or some moss in this slit to keep the two parts separated. The tongue (slit) may be dusted with a rooting hormone powder, although this is not entirely necessary.

Next, cut the bottom off of a clear plastic bread bag, cut the bag in half, and carefully slide it over the top portion of the plant down to the wound on the stem. Tie or tape the bottom of the bread bag to the stem about 1 or 2 inches below the wound. Now form a ball with moist sphagnum moss around the wound on the stem and tie or tape it tighly at the top to prevent moisture from escaping. The moss ball should be around 4 or 5 inches in diameter.

In two to three months, you should be able to see a mass of roots through the plastic bag. This indicates the plant is ready to be potted up in fresh new potting soil. Remove the plastic bag from the rootball and cut the stem off on a slight angle below the rootball just above a node on the parent plant. Gently tease out most of the moss from the rootball and plant the rootball in a flower pot that is about 2 inches bigger than the rootball. Spread out the roots when planting and gently firm soil around the roots so as not to damage them. Water the plant and place it out of direct sunlight. Treat it as as any new cutting until it has become established.

The parent plant stem may put out new growth from dormant buds after the top portion has been removed, so do not throw it away. You may end up with another new rubber plant from the old stem portion.

Leaf-bud cuttings can be made by cutting just above a node and one inch below the node. A leaf will be attached to the node of course. Roll the leaf up to form a cylinder with the waxy part of the leaf facing out and tie it with a piece of string to keep it rolled up. This will prevent loss of moisture from the leaf. Place the one inch piece of stem in moist soilless mix with the node just above the media. Push a stick through the middle of the rolled up leaf into the media to keep it from falling over. Keep the media warm if possible. Once the stem piece has rooted, it may be transplanted into good potting soil. In two years time these leaf bud cuttings will make a good sized plant. Good luck!

Wintering Dahlias

My neighbor has a bad back and requested that I remove her Dahlias to bring in for the winter. I am vegetable gardener and don't know the first thing about pulling out plants and storing them inside for the winter. Can you help out with some advice?

Just use a good strong potato fork or a spade to dig up the dahlia roots. Dig far enough back from the plant so as not to damage any of the roots. Clean off as much soil from the tubers as possible and cut off the stems about 11/2 inch from the tuber. Any damaged roots should be cut straight across and dusted with fine sulphur to prevent the root from rotting. Wrap the roots in newspaper or cover them with vermiculite, sand or moss (to prevent them from shrivelling) and store them in a cool root cellar or the like around 35 to 50 degrees F.

North Carolina Plant Stores

Do you have a name of a plant business where my mother can buy a Beaucarnea recurvata? I am from North Carolina.

Beaucarnea recurvata

First, check with your local floral shops or garden centers. If they do not have one, they maybe able to order you one. Otherwise, try one of these addresses:

Natures Curiosity Shop
2560 Ridgeway Drive
National City, CA 92050

Kirkpatrick's Rare & Unusual Cactus
27785 De Anza Street
Barstow, CA 92311

Cactus by Mueller
10411 Rosedale Highway
Barkersfield, CA 93308

Jessup's Cactus Nursery
P.O. Box 327
Aromas, CA 95004

Fernwood Plants
P.O. Box 268
Topanga, CA 90290

Singer's Growing Things
6a385 Enfield Avenue
Reseda, CA 91335

Abbey Gardens
176 Toro Canyon Road
Carpinteria, CA 93013

Cut Back Yucca

How do I cut back the clusters on Yucca plants? I have 6 or 7 growing out of one originally and it's way too big. What do I do?

Yucca

If you want to start new plants from the clusters you cut off the plant, you should do this in late winter or early spring. If you just want to make the plant smaller, you can remove them (or some of them) now.

If the clusters are growing out from the stem, simply slice that cluster off with a sharp knife right next to the main stem. If the clusters are forming at the base from suckers as with stemless varities ( I do not know which type you have), find the rhizome just below the soils surface and slice it off with a sharp knife as close to the main plant as possible. It won't hurt to dust these cut surfaces with a fungicide which you can obtain at a garden center.

Eradicate Mites

My Gardenia which was out all summer has now developed zillions of what apepars to be mites thats are spinning webs over the plants branch tips, how do I eradicate them?

Gardenia jasminoides

Firstly, spray the plant with water from a garden hose to dislodge as many mites as possible (do this outside). Mites do not like high humidity, so spraying with water several times a day will often get rid of the pests. Watch the plant carefully for awhile as new mites may appear from unhatched eggs.

If you use pesticides, Dienochlor (Pentac Aquaflow or Pentac WP) is safe on Gardenia's, as is Fenpropathrin (Tame 2.4 EC). These pesticides must be registered for use in your state before you can use them.

A Horticultural oil may also be used to suffocate these pests. Complete coverage of the plant is necessary. "SunSpray Ultra Fine Spray Oil" is one of these oils.

ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS BEFORE USING ANY CHEMICALS.

Mango Tree

How can I make my mango tree leaves greener and healthier? I have about six tyes in backyard and some are greener. Thank you.

Mango Tree

We cannot grow mangos in our area, so I do not know anything about them. I would suggest that you ask your local horticultural agency or university about your trees.

Maybe different types of mango trees have slightly different colored leaves.

Nitrogen fertilizer is the nutrient responsible for the green color of leaves. The best way to determine what your soil needs is to take soil samples and have them analyzed. It would be wrong for me to suggest adding anything to your soil if it is not needed.

Silver Dollar Plant From Seed

I was given silver dollar plant seeds. I was told they grow to be very thin and wafer like. When and how should I plant these seeds? They were given to me by someone living in Seattle, WA so there a big climate difference compared to Charleston, SC.

Silver Dollar Plant (Lunaria annua)

I am assuming you are referring to the silver dollar plant (Lunaria annua), also commonly known as 'honey' or ' moonwort'. It is the seed pods that are very thin and wafer like.

These plants are biennial and bloom the 2nd year in most cases. The seeds are sown outdoors in May in well prepared soil in nursery beds. Sow them thinly in rows,1/2 inch deep with 12 inches between the rows. Thin the seedlings shortly after they emerge if they are too crowded, giving them just enough room to develop. Keep the soil between the rows loose and weed free with frequent hoeing.

When autumn arrives (September and October) transplant them to their final place where they will bloom the following year. Once the seed pods have been cut for decorations, the plant should be dug up and thrown away. If a few plants are left in the garden, they will generally self sow from that time on for a continuous crop of flowers.

Dwarf Lemon and Tangerine Trees

I have a dwarf lemon and tangerine tree. The fruit has not turned ripe yet. What do I need to do as the hot weather is coming to an end. Thank you.

Citrus Tree

You will have to bring your plants inside and set them in a spot where they will recieve no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight per day ( 8 hours is best). Otherwise, provide them with bright artificial light. Give them average room temperatures during the day, and night temperatures in the 50's. The soil should be allowed to dry out slightly between thorough waterings.

If they have been fertilized in the late summer, they will not need fertilizing again until early spring. Put them in the shower every 2nd or 3rd week and wash them off with a gentle spray to control spider mites and mealy bugs.

It is not uncommon for citrus species to be in flower and have both green and ripe fruit on the plant all at the same time.

Storing Boston Ferns

How can you store Boston Ferns for winter?

Boston Fern - Nephrolepis exaltata

Boston ferns cannot be stored for winter like you would store a dahlia tuber, for example, at least not to my knowledge. To overwinter the plants, bring them into the home and place them in a brightly lit spot, not direct sun nor a very dark corner. Placing the plant from 3 to 4 feet from a south window or near an east window is good. Average room temperatures are fine with night temperatures no lower than 55 degrees F. Ferns require moist soil, so just let the soil approach dryness before watering the plant again. Do not let the soil become soggy, or the plant root may rot. Humidity levels should be kept rather high, so mist the ferns in the morning or set the pots on a pebble tray filled with water. Enjoy those beautiful plants all winter.

Wintering Gerbera Daisies

I try to bring in my Gerberas each winter but manage to kill them one after another. I think root/crown rot or some kind of mold. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Thank you.

Gerbera daisies

If you want to save seeds, be sure your daisies are not hybrids. Only save seed from those of the species, such as Gerbera jamesonii. The seeds from hybrid plants will revert back to the parent plants and the flowers will not come true to seed. In other words, you could end up with same pretty awful looking flowers. To grow hybrid plants, you must purchase seed from a seed company.

Productive or viable seeds are those which have fully matured and ripened. These seeds are usually plump and hard. The flower seed heads that have naturally dried up on the plant are usually viable seeds (will germinate and grow when sown). A good way to collect seeds from the plant is to tie a small plastic bag over the flower head once the flower has withered. When the seeds have ripened, they will fall into the bag, or they can be shaken loose from the flower head without spilling unto the ground. The dried up flower heads can also be gathered and the seed extracted. Either way, be sure to pick alot of seed. If alot are sown, some are sure to germinate and grow. You need only prick out the ones you want to keep and then discard the rest.

The seeds should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place until they are sown, at which time they are sown in flats or pots of moist sandy soil, or a commercial media prepared for starting seeds. Cover the flats with a pane of glass to keep the media moist. As soon as some of the seeds have germinated and are noticeable, remove the glass. When the seedlings are 1 inch in height, prick them out and pot them up individually in small pots to be grown on. Be sure to use a well drained soil and keep the crowns high. Gerbera daisies usually require from 5 to 6 months to flower from seed, so they can be started as early as January in the home or greenhouse. Some growers start them outside in June and then pot them up in the fall and bring them into tlhe home.

As for the water, Calcium in itself will not become toxic to plant growth, but high levels may lead to other nutrient deficiencies. High calcium levels, for example, may combine with phosphorous to form calcium phosphates, which are then less available for plant use. Provide your plants with a fertilizer that is higher in phosphorous. Mix bonemeal in the soil prior to planting or water the plants with a water soluble fertilizer like 5-10-10, for example. You can also add sphagnum peat moss to the soil to lower the pH or acidity of the soil which is what these daisies prefer.

As for most other minerals in water, it is very rare that they are toxic to plants. The only way to improve the water is to install a filtration or reverse osmosis system. but this can be costly. If your daisies appear healthy (other then when crown rot occurs), your water is probably ok. Just be sure your pots have good drainage holes and the soil has good porosity so soluble salts can be leached from the media when it is watered. These salts appear as a white crust on the soil surface or near the drainage holes of the pots. I wish you luck with these beautiful flowers.

Pyramidal Arborvitae Dying Leaves

I have Pyramidal Arborvitae's and have noticed the leaves look like they are dying (Golden Brown). I trimmed the tops off in September to make them fill out in width. Do I need to fertilize them before winter?

Arborvitae

Firstly, you should never prune your Arborvitae in the fall. To shape the tree, pruning the plants lightly early in the spring before new growth begins is the proper time. Touch up pruning should be after spring growth begins until early summer. If you have sheared the trees, damaged foliage will die and turn brown. Pruning or triming evergreens is best done with a handheld secateur, hiding the pruning cuts, unless of course the trees or shrubs are used for a formal hedge.

If the leaves are turning golden brown in areas other than that you trimed, then there could be several reasons causing this browing. Some varieties or cultivars naturally turn a golden bronze color in late fall and hold this color throughout the winter. If you have had your trees for several years now, and they have never turned golden brown before, rule this one out than.

Arborvitae have a very shallow root system. If your region has experienced an exceptionally dry period and you have not been watering, the leaves can become dessicated and eventually turn brown. The soil around these evergreens should be constantly moist and the soil should be thoroughly soaked prior to winter. Mulching the soil with a 4 to 6 inch layer of organic matter will help conserve soil moisture.

Red spider mites and spruce mites can cause yellowing and browning of the leaves. These very tiny insects (can only be seen by using a hand held magnifying glass) suck the sap from the needles.

Evergreens rarely require fertilizing. I never fertilize mine, and yet they need yearly pruning to keep them in bounds. In very cold and windy areas, however, a feeding late in the year after growth stops, but before the ground freezes is suppose to help prevent the needles from turning brown from sun and wind dessication. The fertilizer should be higher in nitrogen, like 10-6-4, for example. One must be careful not to fertilize too early though, as this can result in a flush of young, tender growth which will surely suffer from winter damage, especially in cold regions. In any case, if the tree is dormant, it is not using any fertilizer, so feeding the plants in the fall is not necessary.

Poinsettia Bract Development

How do you get a poinsettia from last year to turn red for the holidays?

Poinsetta

This operation is usually started about September 21st, however, the colorful bracts will still develop, just a bit later. Here's what to do. You must follow this routine carefully and dilegently.

The plant requires 14 to 15 hours of total darkness every night for about 8 weeks. During this time the buds will develop. If the plant is exposed to any light at all during the dark period at night (even a sliver of light), or if you forget to cover it even once, buds may not form.

The poinsettia is extremely sensitive to photoperiodism (length of light and darkness) during bud formation. So, for an example, cover the plant with a black plastic bag or opaque black cloth each day at 5:00 p.m., and uncover it at 7:00 or 8:00 a.m. each morning. Some folks put it in a closet and cover it to ensure darkness, as long as the temperature remains around 65 degrees F. During the day, uncover the plant and set it in bright indirect light, not full sun, with average room temperatures around 70 degrees F.

When the plant needs watering, thoroughly soak the soil and then let the soil become moderately dry before watering it again. After the 8 week period of total darkness for 14 hours a day is over, the plant can be returned to its normal spot in the home and treated as a normal houseplant once again. So, the important thing to remember is, if you miss covering the plant on time or forget to cover it for even one day, it may fail to produce the beautiful bracts

Calla Lily Flowering Conditions

For 2 years I have planted calla lily bulbs that have grown beautiful leaves in 2 varieties but no flowers. They have been planted both in the ground and in a pot in partly sunny location with good soil and plant food. I kept them inside and dried them last winter but still no flowers. What can I do? I did grow some a few years ago when I lived in a different neighborhood that bloomed, but I don't know what I did that was different.

Calla Lily

Zantedeschia aethiopica, the common white calla lily, does not need a dormant period. It will continue blooming throughout the year if it is given good growing conditions. Full sunshine from September to June and light filtered shade only during the hottest part of the day in summer. It must be kept moist.

All other species need summer dormancy. They should be started into growth again in late August or September by potting them up in fresh soil and resuming watering. The pots should be kept dry and on their sides during the summer rest period which is usually from 2 to 3 months. At this time of the year, they miss the real hot, bright summer weather. Calla lilies need cool night temperatures (55 to 65 degrees F.) and daytime temmperatures in the mid 70's to perform well and flower. This time of the year gives the plant those conditions. They must also be kept moist while they are actively growing as dry spells can prevent blooming. Be sure not to give them to much shade, flowering plants need a fair amount of light. If your calla lilies are one of these varieties, you may have the resting period season in reverse.

I am just about to bring mine out of storage now for repotting and growing on. I have kept them dry since July 15th. They were a gift from my daughter this spring. I hope this will answer your question and good luck with those calla's!

Ponytail Plant Space Requirements

How close to my foundation can I plant Ponytails ? I need something to plant in a sunny corner of my house.

Ponytail Plant

Ponytail plants can reach an average height of 21 feet or more when grown out of doors. It is more difficult to give an exact figure in width or spread of a tree as they can vary considerably. In any case, as the ponytail tree can branch out significantly, I would suggest no closer than 10 feet from the foundation.

Wintering Boston Ferns

I have some Boston Ferns that i keep outside. Can you tell me what to do with these for the winter. Someone told me to put them in a warm dark place & they will go dormant for the winter.

Boston Fern

Personally, I have not heard of storing them in this manner. My boston ferns grow all year around. They are such a nice houseplant, I cannot imagine why anyone would want to hide them all winter.

For interest sake, as we are always learning, why not take one of your ferns and place it in a warm, dark place this winter to see if it will go dormant. In March or April, bring it out, set it in a bright spot out of direct sun and resume watering it. If the plant starts to grow, or it does not, then you will know the answer to your question.

For the remainder of the ferns, bring them inside for the winter. Place them in curtain-filtered sunlight (not direct sun nor heavy shade) and provide normal room temperatures (no lower than 55 degrees F.). Keep the soil moist and provide as much humidity as possible for them (misting, pebble tray, etc.). They do not need fertilizer in the winter months.

If the odd frond turns brown, just cut if off at the soil line. Once frost free weather returns in the spring, out of doors they may go.

Elephant Foot Plant Retailers

We want to buy a Elephant Foot Plant: (Beaucarnea Recurvata - Ponytail Plant). Where can we purchase one of these plants on the Isle of White?

Elephant Foot Plant

I have no possible way of knowing where you could purchase a ponytail plant on the Island. What you may want to do is find several floral shops that handle houseplants and ask if they have one for sale or if they could order one for you. These retailers probably have a permit for bringing in plants.

One mail order company in England that handles(ed) cacti and succulents is: Whitestone Gardens, Ltd.
The Cactus Houses
Sutton-under-Whitestonecliff
Thirsk, Yorkshire
England Y0 72PZ

In Canada:
Pike Lake Greenhouses, 1980
Box 72, R.R.#3
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
S7K 3J6
Canada
Phone (306) 868-4706

I'm not sure if the Canadian Greenhouse mentioned above will mail a plant such a distance, but they do handle the ponytail plant.

Transplant a Yucca

How do I transplant a yucca house plant? When is the best time to?

Yucca

The best time to transplant a yucca plant is in the spring (March or April), every two years.

If the plant is large, have someone help during the operation. Give the plant a new pot that is one or two sizes larger than the one it is presently in. Have the fresh soil ready to use. A commercial soil-based potting media with perlite added for good drainage is fine.

Carefully remove the plant from the old container and examine the rootball. If alot of large roots are wrapped around the bottom of the rootball, untangle them and cut the real long ones off with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Remove some of the old soil near the edges and bottom of the rootball. Put a layer of soil at the bottom of the new pot and place the rootball on top of this soil, spreading out bottom roots as best as possible. The top of the rootball should sit about 1 1/2 inches below the rim of the new container.

Now fill in the sides around the rootball with the new soil and gently firm it (do not pack it in). Place a thin layer of soil over the rootball as well, If the plant is large, you may have to stake it to prevent it from falling over.

Finally, pour water over the surface of the soil until it runs out of the drainage holes. Place the plant in a bright spot and do not water it again until the soils surface becomes dry. The job is done.

Start Poinsettia from Seed

Is it too late to start growing a Pointsettia from a seed, and will it bloom for this Christmas?

Poinsetta

You still have time to start a poinsettia from seed and have it bloom this Christmas if you start Euphorbia heterophylla (annual poinsettia) as soon as possible. It resembles the true poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) in that its upper leaves and bracts are blothched with white and red. Be sure to start more than one seed as not all seeds are viable.

As for the real Christmas poinsettia(E. pulcherrima), the usual means of propagation is to root new shoots that have been taken from the parent plant in May. Otherwise you will end up with the original spindly species that doesn't look very good.

Drooping Devil's Backbone

I bought a Devils Backbone from Home Depot for 98 cents. I put it in a small pot on the patio and forgot about it for a while and it drooped. I gave it a little water and it started growing straight up again. But now I have a plant stem that goes over the rim of the pot, touches the shelf, and is currently straight up about 12 inches from the shelf. Any suggestions to make it straight?

Kalanchoe

I don't think it would be possible to straighten the plant as the stems are generally fairly rigid on a kalanchoe. It would probably end up breaking.

If you can be patient, and your plant is in a good bright spot, it should start producing tiny plantlets at the edges of the serrated leaves before too long. These little plantlets grow quickly and many will even develop roots while they are still attached to the leaf. They may be gently detached from the leaves and placed on the surface of a pot of gritty soil. You'll soon have a nice, new straight plant, or perhaps hundreds.

While waiting for these plantlets to emerge, you may want to set the bottom end of the bent stem (the part touching the shelf) in another pot of soil, so that one node (the spot where the leaf emerges from the stem) is covered with soil. You will have to remove the leaves from that node. Keep the soil just moist and before long the buried section should root. If it does, (you will be able to tell by tugging it gently - it will resist) you can then cut it away from the crooked stem and you will have a new straight plant. Cut the old crooked part of the stem in the original pot back to about two nodes from the soil's surface, and you may have another plant start from adventitious or dormant buds.

If it dosn't root for you using the above method, you can make a cutting from the top of the plant in spring. Let the bottom of the cutting heal for about 2 days before inserting it in a well drained media to root. These generally root really easy, but, if it dosn't for some unknown reason, you will only be out .98 cents. Best of luck!

Banyan Tree

I recently purchased a new house with a very large Banyan tree (ficus) that is 15 feet from my house. We live on an island and the house is supported by pilings. I was told to remove the tree because of the large roots. Is there an alternative?

Banyan Tree (Ficus)

In warm humid regions, the Banyan tree (Ficus benghalensis or Ficus indica) can reach heights of 100 feet at maturity. As it matures, aerial roots that develop from the branches grow down, root in the soil and become new trunks. These new trunks in turn send out more branches, send down more aerial roots, and the cycle continues. These roots can grow relentlessly and the tree spreads laterally indefinitely. A mature trees canopy can eventually cover an area more than 1,000 feet in diameter. One tree can eventually become a dense thicket of entangled trunks and stems. Ficus naturally have a large, shallow underground root system as well. The large roots have been known to split rocks as they enter small cracks in the rocks while the roots are young and enlarge as they mature.

I have no way of knowing what size your tree could eventually become, but knowing the nature of the tree, it may be wise to replace it with something a little less aggressive, like perhaps a beautiful, fragrant Magnolia. Other than this, continual root pruning with a chainsaw, above and below ground, or moving the house may be the only alternatives.

Fig Tree Pruning

I have several fig trees (bushes). What pruning method should I use for our area (Kentucky)? They are all in bush form now and about 10 feet tall (we had alot of rain this summer). Due to the unusaully cold December we had last year they froze out and I cut them down to the ground.

Fig Tree

As figs only produce fruit on one- and two-year-old wood, the older wood will not bear fruit and therefore is of no value to you. So, the idea is to prune to keep producing new growth that will bear fruit and be at a convienient height for picking. If the bush is low enough, it can even be wrapped with spruce boughs, burlap or paper in the winter to protect the branches from hard frosts.

The normal procedure with bush forms is to prune back the leading branches in midspring by about 2/3 to encourage stronger growth. Each spring thereafter, prune out dead, badly spaced and overcrowded branches and cut back one or two of the longest branches to a few buds at their base to stimulate new growth.

May I suggest that you contact your local Horticulture, Agriculture or University Departments for the type of pruning practices they would recommend for your area. In Kentucky you might try the following address's:

Bulletin Room
Experiment Station Bldg.
University of Kentucky
Lexington, KY 40506

Robert Anderson
University of Kentucky
Dept. of Hort. & Arch. Landscape
Lexington, KY 40546-0091
Phone: (606) 257-4721

Blue Rosebushes and Snakeplants

Any idea where I can help a friend in Canada locate "a blue-flowering rosebush and a mother-in-law's tongue"? That's all the info I have.

Blue Rose

A mother-in-law's-tongue should be easy to find in any of the large shopping centers that handle plants like Home Depot, etc. or any floral shop in your area. Otherwise they are sold at:

Pike Lake Greenhouses
Box 72, R.R.3
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
S7K 3J6
Phone: (306) 668-4706

As for a blue flowering rose, the closest one to being blue that I know of is "Blue Moon" which is more of a lilac color. These nurseries might handle the rose, or know where you could get one:

McConnell Nursery Co. Ltd.
Port Burwell, Ontario
Canada N0J 1T0

Carl Pallek and Sons Nurseries
Box 137
Virgil, Ontario
Canada L0S 1T0

Devil's Backbone?

I have a plant that seems similar to Devils Backbone and would like to know its name. I assume that it is in the same family. It differs in that instead of alternate pairs of leaves, it has three leaves that alternate. Although the baby plants start off with pairs of leaves. The leaves are ~1"x0.25-0.5". The stem is straight with no branches. The original plants are ~1' high now, the stem is .25" in diameter. Your help is greatly appreciated. I can send you a pictures of it if this will help.

Kalanchoe pinnata

Although there are many, many different species in this plant family, your Kalanchoe could be Kalanchoe pinnata (Bryophyllum pinnatum). Common names include: Airplant, Lifeplant and Floppers. The leaves are in three's as you described. Maybe you could find a good picture of this plant for identification. Please e-mail me back as I would be interested in knowing whether this is or is not the plant. In any case, this would be my only surmise.

Quince Leaves Turning Yellow

Why do some of my quince shrubs produce yellow to white leaves in July, while others maintain their deep green foliage? All shrubs are of the same variety and have coral colored blooms in May.

Quince shrub

This occassionally happens through some type of physiological disorder in which the leaf lacks chlorophyll or the green pigment which produces the green color of leaves. This happens now and again with many different plants. If this is the reason your leaves are yellow and white, it does not harm the plant.

If the yellow to white leaves have been growing on the same twigs or branches for several years now, it could be possible that these are clones or mutations. In this case, you could be the founder of a new variegated plant. These new shrubs could then only be reproduced by vegetative propagation such as cuttings or budding. This is not likely with your shrubs though as their leaves change color in July.