Plants for a Salt Water Region

What type of outdoor flowers and shrubs would you recommend for a salt water region between a canal and a creek?

The type of plants that will grow in this area will depend on whether the land between the canal and creek is rather high and on the dry side or whether it is low and damp. In any case, the following suggested plants are somewhat, or very salt resistant to both salt in the air carried inland by storms, as well as salt that has accumulated in the soil. It is also a good idea to check with your local agricultural agency for information on plants that are well-suited for your immediate area as to climatic and soil conditions. Very often it is plants with gray foliage and tough, waxy leaves that withstand coastal conditions.

Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster adpressus)

Colutea arborescens (Bladder Senna) and C. x media 'Copper Beauty' are vigorous growing shrubs with the former producing yellow flowers and puffy, pink seedpods, and the latter having blue-green leaves and bright orange flowers. Cotoneasters worth trying include: Cotoneaster dammeri (Bearberry Cotoneaster) - a prostrate evergreen shrub with long trailing shoots and white flowers (good for covering slopes); C. divaricatus (Spreading Cotoneaster) - a medium sized deciduous shrub with bright, rosy-red flowers and dark red berries (an excellent hedge plant); and C. horizontalis (Rockspray Cotoneaster) - a low-growing, spreading deciduous shrub with branches forming a herringbone pattern, red flowers with white stamens and orange red fruits. A variegated variety, C. h 'Variegatus' has cream margined leaves and grows in a prostrate form.

Cytisus x praecox

Cytisus spp. are adapted to these conditions if the soil is not to wet. Cytisus x praecox 'Warminster' is a smallish shrub with masses of rich cream colored flowers that bloom in late spring. C. praecox 'Atropurpureus' is a dwarf form with purple flowers. There are many others in this genus.

Members of the genus Elaeagnus, especially Elaeagnus x ebbingei (and cultivars - cv) are larger evergreen shrubs with the species having large, glossy dark green leaves, silvery beneath, and silvery-scally, fragrant flowers in fall. Orange, silver-speckled fruits follow in the spring. E. pungens is another large shrub with shiny dark green leaves above and dull white speckled with brown beneath. There are other cultivars of pungens and other species of Elaeagnus.

Euonymus japonicus

Escallonia spp. are very salt tolerant, but generally only hardy to zone 7. Euonymus japonicus and E. fortunei and their cultivars are excellent evergreen coastal plants. E. japonicus is a densely branched shrub with dark green leathery leaves, while E. fortunei is a trailing species and makes a good groundcover in sun or shade. Fuchsia magellanica and cv. provide scarlet and violet colored flowers with the plants being hardy to zone 6.

Genista lydia

The golden and yellow flowered Genista are very colorful, flowering in late spring or summer. G. lydia - dwarf shrub, gold flowers in early summer; G. pilosa - dwarf shrub, golden yellow flowers in late spring, and cultivar 'Goldilocks' with golden yellow flowers over a long period of time; G. tinctoria 'Plena' - a semi-prostrate form with double yellow flowers in early to mid-summer, ideal for the rock garden.

Halimodendron halodendron

Halimodendron halodendron is a spiny, silvery-leafed shrub with masses of purplish pink pea like flowers. Its common name is Salt Tree and it is perhaps one of the best seashore plants known, as long as the soil is fairly well-drained. All of the hybrids of the Sun Rose (Helianthemum) are low growing shrubs with a spread of 12 to 18 inches and come in colors of orange, yellow, white, rose, red and scarlet. There are both single and double flowered cultivars available. All are hardy to zone 5.

Hippophae rhamnoides is a tall shrub or small tree that is very resistant to salt spray and wind. The leaves are gray-green on top, silvery-green underneath. Egg shaped orange-yellow berries make the plant interesting.

Big leaf hydrangea Hydrangea macrophylla

Hydrangea macrophylla (Big leaf hydrangea) has cultivars that are known as hortensias or lacecaps. The hortensias produce flowers up to one foot in diameter while the lacecaps produce disclike blooms about 6 inches across. The hortensias are deciduous, small shrubs that are hardy to zone 5. Some cultivars of Hydrangea macrophylla (Hortensias) include: 'Altona' - rose-colored flowers (the plant likes shade); 'Europa' - deep pink; 'Ami Pasquier' - deep red; 'Hamburg' - deep rose or purplish; 'Madame Emile Mouillere' - white with a blue or pink eye, and 'Nikko Blue' - blue or grayish blue flowers. The Lacecap's are medium to large shrubs. A few cultivars include: 'BlueWave' - blue with pink to blue florets; 'Geoffrey Chadbund' - brick red or purple; 'Libelle' - blue surrounded by pure white florets, and 'Tricolor' which has variegated leaves and pink to white flowers. There are several more cultivars in each type of Hydrangea macrophylla. The flower color of these plants will vary according to the soil conditions - acidic or alkali.

English Holly Ilex aquifolium

Cultivars of Ilex aquifolium (English Holly) tolerate coastal conditions but not extreme heat or drought. Hardy to zone 6, these evergreen cultivars have very different leaf shapes, habits of growth and colorings. A few include: 'Amber' - green leaves, bronze-yellow fruits; 'Argentea Marginata' - white margined leaves; 'Golden Milkboy' - spine-edged green leaves splashed with gold in the center; 'Golden Queen'; 'Green Pillar'; 'Pyramidalis' and many more.

Lavender Lavandula angustifolia

Other shrubs include: Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) and cv.; Lavatera thuringiaca (Mallow) and cv.; Lonicera pileata (Privet Honeysuckle) and Lonicera nitida (Boxleaf Honeysuckle); Lycium barbarum (Matrimony vine); Prunus spinosa (Blackthorn); Rosa rugosa (Rugosa Rose, Saltspray Rose) and Rosa virginiana (Virginia Rose) and other species; Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) and cv.; Spiaraea spp. (many kinds); Tamarix spp. including: T. gallica; T. ramosissima and cv. 'Rubra'; and T. tetrandra, all very salt resistant shrubs with pink flowers; Ulex europaeus 'Flore Pleno' - a compact spiny shrub with semi-double chrome yellow, fragrant caramel scented flowers.

Yucca flaccida

Some of the Viburnum spp. with evergreen leaves will tolerate coastal conditions. V. 'Eskimo' with large white flower heads is one example. Yucca spp. are suited to these areas. Yucca filamentosa (Adams Needle) and cv. are stemless, have lance-shaped leaves and produce conical panicles of creamy flowers. Cultivars include 'Bright Edge' and 'Variegata'. Yucca flaccida and cv. are stemless, low-growing , have lance shaped leaves and creamy flowers. 'Golden Sword' and 'Ivory' are cultivars. Yucca glauca (Spanish Bayonet) is a low growing plant with linear, grayish green leaves margined with white and produces greenish white flowers. Two other species include Y. gloriosa (Spanish Dagger or Mound Lily) and Y. recurvifolia.

Common juniper Juniperus communis

Most species of Juniperus including Juniperus conferta (Shore Juniper); Juniperus horizontalis (Creeping Juniper) and cultivars, and Juniperus communis (Common Juniper) and cultivars, as well as other species. Many are hardy to zone 2.

Periwinkle Vinca minor

Pinus mughus (Mugo Pine) is either a small shrub or small tree, it varies greatly in size from plant to plant. Fallopia baldschunanica (Russian Vine) is a rampant climber that grows in almost any soil. The plant has heart-shaped, pale-green leaves and pinkish flowers. It is fast growing and large, not intended for a small garden.

Other plants worth trying include Vinca minor (Periwinkle) with blue flowers; Mesembryanthemum crystallinum (Ice Plant) - an annual with white flowers and leaves covered with glistening white lumps; Crossandra guineensis - lilac flowers, 6 inch high plants and C. infundibuliformis which bears orange-scarlet flowers. Both are treated as annuals and started from cuttings or seeds.

Atriplex hortensis is grown as a hardy annual and has interesting reddish or purplish-red leaves with attractive flower spikes.

Plants for Shaded Patio

Brian, What type of potted plants grow in mostly shade for a patio? I want to make a haven but shade inhibits this. Any help is appreciated!!

There are very few plants that can thrive in deep shade like the shaded area under the lower branches of evergreens. Mosses and mushrooms can, but they're not very attractive. As we move from dense shade to a bit more open shade, like that at the bottom of the north side of a building, the number of plants that will grow increases, but these will be basically green foliage plants like ferns. Flowering plants and those with variegated foliage will not generally perform to well, as they will concentrate their energy on the production of food (carbohydrates) in low-light areas. Variegated leaves revert back to green under poor light to produce chlorophyll to help in the process of photosynthesis. In other words, the plants are doing all they can to stay alive, let alone show off their flowers and the fancy leaf colors of their foliage.

In medium shade areas, almost all plants can survive, although, sun-loving plants will probably not bloom. These areas include places where there is plenty of light, but very little, if any, direct sun. The shade under a sparsely leafed deciduous tree is an example of medium shade. Several varieties of flowering plants will bloom under this type of light.

The final type of shade is open or dappled shade. These areas will often receive some direct sunlight, perhaps 3 or 4 hours per day. This could be sunlight shining through very sparse leaves or branches of a tree, or through the structure of overhead spaced lath-work.

Depending on where your patio is located and how it is constructed, these suggestions may or may not be of use to you. If large overhead trees are causing heavy shade, the upper branches could be thinned to allow more light to filter through. This type of work should be done by professional arborists who know the correct pruning procedures and safety precautions when working high above the ground.

If your patio is covered with a non-transparent material such as shingles, the installation of greenhouse fiberglass panels would increase light intensity (brightness) considerably.

Light intensity can be greatly increased by changing the color of walls on surrounding buildings or fences. White walls or white buildings will reflect light to neighboring buildings or sites, whereas, dark colored buildings absorb light. Placing white painted panels or even mirrors in some areas (if possible) can increase light intensity.

If there is no way possible to increase natural light in the patio space, supplying artificial or supplementary lighting using outdoor lights manufactured for this purpose is another option. An automatic timing system can be installed to turn the lights 'on' and 'off' for any amount of time. The higher amount of light intensity in foot candles a plant receives from a light source, the fewer hours of light the plant will require during the day. The artificial light source must provide both suitable light intensity (brightness) and a suitable blend of wavelengths that plants require for the process of photosynthesis.

Another option is to have what we might call two 'sets' of plants. Plants can live only so long without receiving adequate light intensity before they will die. So, while one plant is located in the shaded patio, another is thriving and growing in a sunny spot or its preferred location. In six to eight weeks time, the two plants are rotated, the shaded one being moved to the light and the one in the light being moved to the shaded area.

For very dark corners, artificial silk foliage and flowering plants can be used to mix and blend with the live plants. Some of these are so well made it is hard to differentiate between them and real plants, especially in shaded areas. Many times I have had to touch one of these plants to see if they were artificial or the real thing.

Many tropical plants that are grown as potted houseplants do very well in shaded areas. In their natural surroundings they exist on the jungle floor beneath the dense shade of an overhead canopy. A few of these that do well in very low light include: Syngonium spp. -Arrowhead; Aspidistra elatior - Cast Iron Plant; Aglaonema spp. - Chinese Evergreen; Dracaena spp. - Dracaena species; Asplenium nidus - Bird's Nest Fern; Chamaedorea elegans - Dwarf Palm (Neanthe Bella); Philodendron spp. - Philodendron species; Epipremnun and Scindapsus spp. - Pothos or Devil's Ivy; and Sansevieria spp. - Snake Plant.

Other tropical plants that do well in low light include:

Asparagus Fern Asparagus spp.

Baby's tears Soleirolia soleirolii

Flaming Sword Vriesea spp.

Mistletoe cactus Rhipsalis spp.

Calceolaria Calceolaria spp.

Clubmoss Selaginella spp.

Dumbcane Dieffenbachia spp.

'Bostoniensis' - Boston Fern Nephrolepis exaltata.

Brake Ferns Pteris spp.

Hart's tongue Phyllitis scolopendrium

Holly Fern Cyrtomium falcatum

Maidenhair Fern Adiantum spp. (as well as other types of ferns)

Deersfoot Davallia canariensis

Fittonia Fittonia spp.

Flagplant (miniature) Acornus gramineus

Grape ivy Cissus rhombifolia

Kangaroo ivy Cissus antartica

Homalomena Homalomena spp.

Swiss Cheese Plant Monstera spp.

Norfolk Island Pine Araucaria heterophylla

Kite Masdevallia spp.

Bamboo Palm Chamaedorea spp.

Kentia Palm Howea spp.

Peace Lily Spathiphyllum spp.

No common names Bifrenaria spp.

Pleomele Dracaena spp.

Screw Pine Pandanus spp.

Hybrid Tuberous Begonia Begonia x tuberhybrida

Wax Begonia Begonia x semperflorens - cultorum

'New Guinea Hybrids' Impatiens

Busy Lizzie Impatiens wallerana

Garden Balsam Impatiens balsamina

Moss Flower Ageratum

Bush VioletBrowallia speciosa and Browallia viscosa

Forget-Me-Nots Anchusa capensis

Fuchsia Fuchsia

Lobelia Lobelia erinus

'Grandiflorus' - (Monkey Flower) Mimulus x hybridus

Flowering Tobacco Nicotiana alata

Annual Woodruff Asperula orientalis

Pot Marigold Calendula officinalis

Madagascar Periwinkle Catharanthus roseus

Caladium Caladium

Coleus Coleus

Lily-of-the-Valley Convallaria majalis

Pansy Violas

Violets Violets

Anthurium Anthurium spp.

Alocasia Alocasia spp.

Amomum cardamon

Elephant's Ear Colocasis

'Blue Ice' Calathea burle-marxii

Cyclamen Cyclamen spp.

English Ivy Hedera helix

Hosta Hosta

Japanese Painted Fern Athyrium niponicum

Azaleas

Gardenias

Camellias

Clubmoss Selaginella spp.

Dumbcane Dieffenbachia spp.

'Bostoniensis' - Boston Fern Nephrolepis exaltata.

Brake Ferns Pteris spp.

Hart's tongue Phyllitis scolopendrium

Holly Fern Cyrtomium falcatum

Maidenhair Fern Adiantum spp. (as well as other types of ferns)

Deersfoot Davallia canariensis

Fittonia Fittonia spp.

Flagplant (miniature) Acornus gramineus

Grape ivy Cissus rhombifolia

Kangaroo ivy Cissus antartica

Homalomena Homalomena spp.

Swiss Cheese Plant Monstera spp.

Norfolk Island Pine Araucaria heterophylla

Kite Masdevallia spp.

Bamboo Palm Chamaedorea spp.

Kentia Palm Howea spp.

Peace Lily Spathiphyllum spp.

No common names Bifrenaria spp.

Pleomele Dracaena spp.

Screw Pine Pandanus spp.

Hybrid Tuberous Begonia Begonia x tuberhybrida

Wax Begonia Begonia x semperflorens - cultorum

'New Guinea Hybrids' Impatiens

Busy Lizzie Impatiens wallerana

Garden Balsam Impatiens balsamina

Moss Flower Ageratum

Bush VioletBrowallia speciosa and Browallia viscosa

Forget-Me-Nots Anchusa capensis

Fuchsia Fuchsia

Lobelia Lobelia erinus

'Grandiflorus' - (Monkey Flower) Mimulus x hybridus

Flowering Tobacco Nicotiana alata

Annual Woodruff Asperula orientalis

Pot Marigold Calendula officinalis

Madagascar Periwinkle Catharanthus roseus

Caladium Caladium

Coleus Coleus

Lily-of-the-Valley Convallaria majalis

Pansy Violas

Violets Violets

Anthurium Anthurium spp.

Alocasia Alocasia spp.

Amomum cardamon

Elephant's Ear Colocasis

'Blue Ice' Calathea burle-marxii

Cyclamen Cyclamen spp.

English Ivy Hedera helix

Hosta Hosta

Japanese Painted Fern Athyrium niponicum

Azaleas

Gardenias

Camellias

Transplanting a Fig Tree

I moved and have an edible fig tree (white figs? )that I need to transplant. When is the best time? I'd like to do it now (March/April). Will it survive? It is 12 years old. Thank you.

Edible fig trees (Ficus carica) that are grown as potted plants should be potted in autumn once the leaves have fallen. It is best to transplant or repot any plant while they are dormant. However, container grown plants can be repotted or transplanted at any time of the year as long as the roots are not too badly disturbed. If your fig is a pot grown plant and is still dormant, the long, coarse roots should be shortened before it is repotted. The potting media should consist of loam, compost or dried cow manure, bonemeal and some perlite or coarse sand to aid in drainage. Pots or containers must have good drainage holes and should have a 2 inch layer of rubble (broken pieces of clay pots) placed on the bottom of them. The soil should be firmed around the roots and watered in well. Potted figs are usually repotted every second year.

The best time to transplant fig trees out of doors is in the winter or spring before they are actively growing. I do not know the climatic conditions where you are living, so advising is a bit difficult. The tree may be planted outside in April in your area if there is no danger from hard frosts or very cold temperatures. Some varieties of figs are hardier than others. It is the soft, young growth that is generally damaged by frost in the spring.

If your fig was growing outside, it should survive if a sufficient amount of roots have been retained when it was dug up and they have not been allowed to dry out. When you replant it, be sure to water it well and keep the root system moist. Placing a 3 - 4 inch layer of organic material (straw, grass clippings, bark) on the soil around the tree will help to keep the soil moist. The best I can do is hope your 12 year old fig tree will survive.

You may want to take a couple of cuttings from the tree to start a new plant, just in case the tree doesn't survive. The cuttings may be taken at this time of year, early spring. They should be 8 - 10 inches long and taken from one year old wood (last season's growth). Use a sharp pruning secateur or a sharp knife and cut cleanly across just beneath a node or joint for the base of the cutting, and just above a node on a slight angle for the top of the cutting. Remove all of the side buds on the lower portion of the cuttings (carefully with your fingers) to prevent sucker shoots from developing later on. Plant the cuttings outside in well prepared soil with their butt ends down. Plant them deep enough so that only 1 inch of the cutting is above ground level. Once they are well rooted (possibly mid-summer), they may be dug up, as many roots retained as possible, and planted in their permanent location.

Pruning a Fig Tree

How do you go about pruning a fig tree?

The proper method for pruning a fig tree (Ficus carica) will depend on the variety of fig grown. Many of the shrub forms are left to grow as they are, the only pruning being the removal of deadwood.

Figs are grouped and pruned according to their flowering habits: 1- those that produce flowers on the season's new growth (White and Brown Fig varieties), and 2 - those that bear fruit on one year old or older wood (Black Fig varieties). In both cases, if the trees are grown strictly to produce figs (not for ornamental purposes), they are pruned (headed low) while they are young trees so that lateral branches will grow about 24 inches from the ground. In the first year, all but 3 or 4 of the best-placed branches are cut off the stem. These lateral branches should be approximately 6 - 12 inches apart, face opposite directions (spiral around the tree trunk) and form angles that are greater than 45 degrees. Right angled branches are very strong and less likely to break in wind storms. On Black Fig varieties, cut these laterals back by two thirds (2/3) to encourage stronger growth. Once a good structure has been formed on Black Fig varieties (group 2), the only pruning required is to thin out crowded branches and remove damaged, dead or poor branches. Poor branches include those that cross, rub or interfere with one another, branches that grow into the center of the crown or those that form sharp angles (less than 60 degrees) and are weakly attached to the stem. Overly long new stems may require pinching back (remove the top ½ inch) in summer to promote more branch development and prevent the tree from becoming leggy. Older trees generally do not require much pruning if they have been properly shaped when young. A properly pruned tree will have a well-balanced, evenly spaced, open crown (allows light into the top branches). Remove any suckers that arise at the base of the tree by pulling them off, not cutting them.

White and Brown Fig varieties produce fruit on the season's new growth, so as a rule they require severe pruning each year. Cut back the previous season's shoots that bore fruit to two eyes or bud scars in late winter or early spring (dormant season). New shoots will grow from these buds (if the tree is healthy) and produce a new crop of figs. In the dormant season the following year, these new shoots are again cut back to two buds. Pruning is thus carried on in this manner from season to season. In colder regions, this pruning results from winter die-back of the shoots. Suckers are removed at the base of the tree by pulling them from the source.

Figs may be trained and pruned to grow in the shape of a fan. First, wire is fastened horizontally against a building or fence at 12 inch intervals. The tree is then planted in well prepared soil below the wire and allowed to grow on. As the new shoots grow, loosely tie them to the wire in the shape of a fan, spacing the shoots so they are 12 to 15 inches apart. Tie all the shoots to the wire during the first summer so the tree can become well established. Once autumn arrives and the leaves fall off, remove any weak and crowded shoots.

Over the next two years in mid-summer continue to tie in well spaced new growth and cut out badly spaced shoots as well as those growing in the wrong direction. The idea is to grow a fan shaped tree with evenly spaced branches that do not overlap. All the branches and fruit must receive direct sunlight.

Pruning from this point on is to encourage new shoots that will produce fruit and to remove old, damaged and diseased shoots. In early spring of each year, cut out damaged and badly spaced shoots by cutting them back to a low (basal) bud on a main branch. Furthermore, select old branches that no longer bear fruit and cut about 1/3 to ½ of these stems back down to 2 buds at the base of these branches. The new shoots that emerge from these buds should be properly tied to the wire. These new shoots will produce the new crop of figs. Pinch out any side-shoots that develop over the summer as soon as they are noticed to prevent overcrowding and competition to the main fruiting shoots.

If fig trees are grown for ornamental or shade trees, they are shaped while young in the same way as those grown for fruit, except that the lateral branches are allowed to develop higher up on the stems. From this point on, in most cases, little pruning is required as fig trees form a good shaped tree on their own accord. Basic pruning is carried on over the years using the same practices as for Black Fig varieties mentioned above, removing dead branches, crowded branches, etc.

Figs grown as houseplants such as Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig) are pruned to control their size, improve the shape of the tree if it is unattractive, or to stimulate branching if the tree is sparsely branched and lacking foliage. The best time to prune the tree is just before it starts into active growth. This is obvious when numerous leafy shoots begin to appear. Active growth can appear at any time, not necessarily in early spring. The important thing to remember is to keep the natural shape or form of the tree in mind before any branches are removed. It's very easy to remove a limb, not so easy to put it back on. Ficus benjamina has a more or less Y shaped form, somewhat similar to the American Elm (Ulmus americana).

To shorten a tree that is outgrowing its living space, stop and look carefully at the framework or structure of the tree before pruning. When pruning has been completed, the tree should look the same as before you started pruning, only shorter. To shorten the tree, choose a lower branch on each of the main branches that is thinner and is growing on the outside of the main branch. Keep in mind that a tree should not have anymore than 25 percent of its top growth removed at one time. When a thinner branch has been chosen, cut off the main branch just above the side branch. Never leave a stub when removing a branch. The cut should be flush (parallel) with the branch that remains on the tree, not leaving a stub, nor cutting into the bark of that branch. A milky substance may ooze out of the wound, but it will soon coagulate. When all the main branches have been pruned as such, the tree should look the same, only shorter. All of the side branches will now become the main branches. The tree may have a few bear spots after this treatment, but they will soon fill in once new growth starts below the cut on the new main stems.

If a single branch is longer than most and ruins the shape of the tree, it can be removed by cutting it back to the bigger branch, or shortened by cutting directly above a bud or smaller twig. Cut just above the bud so that a stub is not left and do not cut too close to the bud. The bud or smaller twig should be facing in an outward direction from the tree, otherwise, this branch will grow into the center of the tree. The only time a cut is made above an inward facing bud is if

there is a hole in the trees canopy that needs filling. A new branch always grows in the direction that the bud is pointed.

Remove branches that cross or rub against other branches. Remove branches that tend to grow straight up into the trees crown. A few branches may need to be removed to open the tree up a little. Light should be allowed to enter the trees crown, otherwise, inside leaves will yellow and branches eventually die from lack of light. A more open canopy also helps prevent disease problems by permitting fresh air to circulate or flow through the branches. Always remove damaged or diseased branches as well.

Hoya kerrii

I have been trying to find information on the Hoya plant commonly known as "Sweetheart Plant" and a picture and have had no luck. Can you help?

I would have to believe that Hoya kerrii is named 'Sweetheart Plant' or Sweetheart Hoya" because of the 'heart' or 'valentine' shaped leaves. These plants are found growing naturally in Thailand, Malaya and Sumatra.

Hoya kerrii has thick, succulent type, opposite leaves that are indeed shaped like flat hearts. The leaves are joined to the long, twinning stems (by the sharp tip of the heart-shape leaf) with ½ to 1 inch long, 1/8 inch thick petioles (leaf stalks). The stems produce aerial roots which in their native habitat grow into deposits of humus found in crevices and branches of trees as well as absorbing moisture from the air. These aerial roots root easily when inserted into a moist medium making it easy to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Hoya kerrii also comes in forms with variegated leaves.

The flower shape is typical of hoya plants. Small, flat, star-shaped individual flowers are joined like ribs of an open umbrella to form a cluster that is attached to a spur (single stem) called the peduncle. Each small flower is made up of two stars, one on top of the other. The so called bottom star (corolla) is larger in size than the upper centered star which is termed the 'corona'. Hoya kerrii has whitish corolla's and reddish corona's. The flowers are very beautiful, waxy, tough and long lasting. All hoya flowers have wonderful fragrances, some very powerful, others less so.

Hoya plants will flower profusely year after year as long as they are given a few basic requirements. New flower buds grow from the old spurs (peduncles) along the vines, so needless to say, these must not be removed after the plant has completed blooming for the season. Some folks like neat compact plants, so they cut the long vines with the flower spurs off, and then wonder why their hoya won't bloom. I loosely tie the long hoya vines to homemade fan shaped trellises which keeps them upright and proudly showing off their beautiful flowers. More often then not, the same spurs will bloom two or three times in one season. When they are in full bloom, the whole house smells like a chocolate or candy factory. Never move or disturb a hoya plant once the buds have formed.

Hoya roots cannot stand excessively wet soil or they will rot. A porous, rich, well-drained media is what the plant requires for healthy, vigorous growth. My favorite mix is 1 part loam, 1 part sphagnum peat moss, ½ part perlite and ½ part vermiculite. To this mixture, 11/2 tablespoons of bone meal is added per gallon of mix for good root and flower bud development. Soiless mixes may also be used and are available at most garden centers. When using a soiless mix, the plant must be fed more frequently than one with a soil base. The medium must be moist before the plant is fertilized, or root injury is possible. Hoya's prefer a fertilizer with a higher phosphorous percentage which is indicated by the middle number, such as 5-10-5. The plant should only be fed every 6 - 8 weeks while it is actively growing in spring and summer.

Without bright light, there is no hope for flowers. The best possible spot is about 3 - 4 feet back from a south facing window so the plant does not receive the direct hot afternoon sun in summer. The low winter sun provides the required bright light needed, but is not strong enough to damage the leaves. If located in east or west windows, the plants should be allowed the direct morning and afternoon sun. If artificial light is the only option, provide at least 450 - 800 ft. candles of light for 8 - 10 hours per day.

Hoya plants need to be a bit potbound before they will bloom. In many cases they simply will not bloom the first or even second year until adequate roots have formed. A slightly potbound plant will put its energy into growing leaves and flowers rather than producing a larger root system. With some of the larger species the plant will not bloom until the stems have reached at least three feet in length, or longer. Under ideal growing conditions, however, stems can grow 6 - 7 feet in one season, many reaching lengths of 15 feet. Check the root-ball occasionally by taking the plant out of the pot . If only a few roots are visible, the plant does not require repotting. If many root hairs are visible, than repot it in a one size larger pot in the spring before flowering begins.

As previously mentioned, hoyas can be touchy with their watering habits. If a plant is watered before it really needs watering, the whole lot of blossoms may drop to the floor before opening, or the roots may rot. So, while the plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, drench the soil and let it dry to about 1/2 inch below the soil's surface before watering again. In the plants semi-dormant period (late fall and winter), the soil may be allowed to dry even more (almost completely) between watering. The drier soil in the dormant period helps with flower bud development as well as preventing the roots from rotting. Never allow a pot to sit in excess water and be sure drainage holes in the pot are always open to allow excess water to drain freely.

As for temperature, the average home room is fine. Night temperatures of around 60 degrees F. is best for the plant with daytime highs near 72 degrees F. Hoya's have survived in much cooler and much warmer temperatures, but in the home this would be uncomfortable for people.

The one thing hoyas must have besides a very well-drained soil, is a rather high level of humidity during the entire year. The combination of drier soil and moist air in the winter months is necessary for the health of the foliage as well as good flower bud formation in spring. Very dry air can result in drying, yellowing and falling of leaves. Older plants will drop the odd leaf from time to time, but this is normal. Grouping of plants, pebble trays of water, moist sphagnum peat moss, humidifiers or misting the leaves several times a day (not at night) will help raise the humidity levels in a room.

Hoya plants are easily propagated in the spring between May and June by taking cuttings of new growth. Each cutting should have 2 to 3 nodes (joints). Remove the bottom leaves from the cuttings, insert them in moist sand or vermiculite and keep them warm and moist. The cuttings may take some time to develop a root system, so, feeding them with a ½ strength water soluble fertilizer every 6 - 8 weeks is beneficial.

Mealybug is the main predator of hoya plants above the soil line. These insects lure in the leaf axils and stem joints of the plant, sucking on the plants juices. They must be controlled immediately by touching them with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or spraying the plant with malathion. ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS ON PESTICIDE LABELS.

One final word of precaution - hoyas can be addicting! Once addicted, you may have to add on to your home as new species arrive.

Hoya Supplier

I would just like to know where I could get myself a Hoya australis or Hoya bella plant. The only ones that I find and sell are from the U.S. and don't deliver to Canada. I have been looking for a couple of years to get myself one and cannot find anywhere. Can you help? Or maybe you know of a site in Canada where I can get one of these? I would very much appreciate your help.

You can get both Hoya australis and Hoya bella from:

PIKE LAKE GREENHOUSES
Box 72, R.R. 3,
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
S7K 3J6

Phone: (306) 668-4706

The greenhouse handles many other varieties of tropical plants as well. Plants will not be mailed out until May or June to prevent possible injury from frost, but ordering early never hurts.

Butterfly Bush Propogation

Can you propogate (root) a butterfly bush from its trimmings?

The Butterfly bush (Buddleja) can definitely be propagated from its trimmings (cuttings). In fact, cultivars of Buddleja spp. have to be propagated asexually (using vegetative parts of the plant - not seeds) or, they will loose their special characteristics (whatever makes them uniquely different from the species and other cultivars; example: flower color). Buddleja davidii 'Empire Blue' is one example of a cultivar. The species (the plant that is found growing naturally in the wild) can be propagated from its seed, as well as from cuttings.

The proper time to take cuttings depends on the kind of shrub (plant in general) and the softness (new growth) or firmness (more mature growth) of the plant material. This is referred to as ripeness of the wood and is very important if we want the cuttings to root. Softwood cuttings are taken in spring to early summer; semi-ripe cuttings are taken from mid-summer to late summer (some plants in early fall), and hardwood cuttings taken from autumn till mid-winter. I will use the term 'cuttings' instead of 'trimmings' throughout the column. Cuttings can be made from trimmings. Only healthy portions of a stem should be used to make cuttings, and these should have evenly spaced nodes. A node is the swollen part on the stem where the leaves or buds emerge, and with most plants, roots form readily at a node. Some plants, including the Butterfly bush, also root between the nodes. The area between nodes is called the internode, and cuttings that root as such are known as internodal cuttings. Do not use stretched out, weak, spindly shoots as these root poorly. Most cuttings are made from the current season's growth, not from stems that are two or more years old as older wood is not likely to root.

Butterfly bush cuttings root easily and can be propagated using all three types of wood, from spring to winter. Softwood cuttings taken in the spring or early summer should be 1 1/2 to 2 inches long with at least two or three pairs of leaves at the top of the cutting. Pinch off the very soft tip from each cutting (usually two small new leaves or a pale green pointed shoot) as this encourages a bushy new plant, prevents the tip from rotting, and helps to stimulate rooting of the cutting. These cuttings must be placed in a plastic bag as soon as they are taken from the plant to prevent them from wilting and dying. The leaves can be cut in half on cuttings taken from plants that have very large leaves to help reduce moisture loss of the cutting through transpiration (evaporation) of the leaves.

Remove the bottom pair of leaves from the cutting right next to the stem very carefully with a sharp knife, so as not to damage the soft stem. Dust the bottom ½ inch of the cutting with a softwood rooting hormone powder and insert it in moist vermiculite, sand, or a prepared rooting medium which can be obtained from a garden center. When inserted in the media, the leaves should just be above the media, and they should not be touching each other. It is best to make a hole in the media with a pencil or stick and insert the cutting into this hole, otherwise, the soft stem could be bent or damaged while trying to push it into the media. Fill in around each cutting and then water them in well. Set the cuttings in a warm, bright area. Placing the pot or flat in a clear plastic bag prevents the rooting media and cuttings from drying out. A bottom temperature (temp. of the soil) of at least 60 degrees F. should be maintained. Once the cuttings are well rooted, they may be individually potted up in 4 inch plastic pots, or 'hardened off' and set outside in good garden soil (after all danger of frost is passed) in a location that is sheltered from strong winds. Space the plants from 12 to l6 inches apart in the garden and keep them moist and weed free. Once they are well rooted or have grown sufficiently, they may be transplanted to their permanent location.

Stem-tip cuttings are taken in mid-summer when the plant material is firmer than that of softwood cuttings. The tips of the cuttings are not removed or pinched off as in the case of softwood cuttings. These cuttings should be taken by making a clean cut directly under a node (use a sharp pruning tool or knife). They should average 4 inches in length. These cuttings are generally easy to root. Root them using the same procedure as above.

Another type of cutting that roots well is obtained from semi-ripe plant material. These cuttings are taken in mid-summer and late summer from the current season's growth that has begun to firm. The base of these cuttings will be quite hard, but the tips will still be soft as they are still actively growing. Clippings or trimmings of semi-ripe material are often used for cuttings. These cuttings should be 2 - 6 inches long, depending on the plant species being propagated. Be sure the wood is not too soft (weak) or too hard (over mature), or the cuttings may not root. These cuttings are generally made from side shoots off of the long main stems. Remove a long main stem from the plant by cutting just above a bud on the plant, or cut if off close to the ground. Cut the side shoots off of the main stem by cutting directly under a node on each side shoot. Remove the lower leaves and pinch out the growing tips as you would for softwood cuttings. These cuttings root easier if a piece of bark is removed from one side of the stem near the bottom of the cutting. This is called 'wounding' the cutting. Carefully remove a piece of bark approximately ½ to ¾ inch long. Dust the bottom end of the cutting with a semi-softwood rooting hormone powder before inserting it into a moist media. Tap the cutting after it is dipped in the rooting powder so that excess powder falls off. Too much of this powder can actually slow down the rooting process. Keep the media moist and warm while the cuttings are rooting.

Hardwood cuttings are taken in the fall or early winter once the shrub has lost its leaves. Some benefit from a light frost while others like Buddleja should not be exposed to a frost before taking the cuttings. This is known as mature wood. The cuttings are made from the long new stems of the current years growth. Several cuttings approximately 8 inches in length can be made from one stem. Remove the complete stem from the plant at a larger stem, or cut those that arise from the ground at ground level. To make the cuttings, cut directly under a node for the bottom of the cutting and cut 1/8 inch above a node on a slight angle for the top of the cutting. In this way, you will know which is the bottom of the cutting and which end is the top of the cutting. A slight wound may be made at the base of each cutting as above. In mild climates, the cuttings can be dusted with a hardwood rooting hormone powder and inserted in well drained, properly prepared, sheltered beds out of doors. In cold winter climates with sub-zero temperatures, the cuttings are taken and then tied in bundles of around 25 per bundle. They are then laid horizontally in a plastic container and buried with 6 - 8 inches of moist material such as sand, and then stored in a cool root cellar until early spring. During this time the cutting goes through a physiological change, where in many cases a callous will form at the base of the cutting. New roots will emerge from this callous. In late February, early March, the cuttings are brought out of storage, dusted with a hardwood rooting powder and inserted in moist vermiculite, sand or other rooting media and started in the home or greenhouse. Once they are well-rooted, they are either potted up in 4-6 inch pots or 'hardened off' and set directly outside in rows in well-prepared garden soil after danger of frost has passed. The soil should be kept moist and weed free while the young shrubs are establishing.

Palm-Leaf Begonia

Have you heard of a palm leaf begonia? I'm trying to find some information about this plant. The leaf is furry like the begonia and with the right light, the leaves are a dark brown, burgundy color and the stem of the plant always moves to the side of the pot. I'm not positive about the name but this is what is has been called. Hope you can help as I was unable to do a search with the name.

Yes, there is a begonia named Palm-Leaf begonia. Its correct botanical name is Begonia luxurians. This is a beautiful (luxurians means luxuriant) shrub like begonia with palm-like, slightly hairy, mid to dark green or bronze colored compound leaves, each having up to 16 lance-shaped leaflets. These leaves grow at the top of erect stems and look much like an umbrella or palm, thus the name Palm-leaf Begonia. If adequate light is provided, slightly fragrant, yellowish white flowers appear on 4 inch cymes from spring to summer. Bright light with some morning or late afternoon sun is needed to produce these flowers. This begonia can reach heights of 13 feet, so staking may be required. Over-watering is the main cause of failure.

String of Hearts Suppliers

I am on a web search for Ceropegia woodii or string of hearts. We very much want to use them as guest favors at a family wedding. Our local nurseries cannot locate a source for the amount of plants we need. Do you know of a grower or resource we can try? Any help would be appreciated. The wedding is in April so we are hoping to find the plants soon.

PS. I love your site and will share it with my gardening buddies. Your responses are very thorough and the plant info is very helpful. Thanks.

Thank you for reading Brian's Garden. Two retail garden centers that handle Ceropegia woodii in Canada are:

ART KNAPP PLANTLAND, 1300 Dominion Ave., Port Coquitlam, BC, Canada V3C 3V4 Tel: (604) 942-2859 E-mail: Knapps@abccustoms.com Website: www.artknapp.com, and

DUTCH GROWERS GARDEN CENTER LTD., 685 Reid Rd., Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada Tel: (306) 249-1222.

For a very large number of plants, you may need to order directly from a succulent nursery. Below is a list of such nurseries that may be able to help you with your request. To help further your own search, type in (cactus and succulent nurseries) on your computer. There are many of them out there. Good luck in finding your plants.

SUNRISE NURSERY, 13105 Canyon View, Leander, TX 78641 Tel: (512) 267-0023

ABBEY GARDEN CACTI AND SUCCULENTS, P.O. Box 2249, La Harbra, CA 90632 Tel: (562) 905-3520

GRIGSBY CACTUS GARDEN, 2354 Bella Vista, Vista, CA 92083 Tel: (760) 727- 1323

CHESAPEAKE PLANTS INC., 6246 Franklin Gibson Rd., Tracys Landing, MO 20779 Tel: (410) 257- 9746

K&L CACTUS AND SUCCULENT NURSERY, 12712 W.Stockton Blvd., Galt, CA 95632

Gardenia Care

I have a gardenia that I would like to grow in my house. Please tell me how to grow this plant, what type of light is necessary, what room the plant does best in (south, north ect.), fertilizing, the type of container to grow plant, etc. If I can't grow gardenias in a container, how do I plant it outside? From what direction should it face the sun, what type of soil should be used and what type of fertilizer should be used? Thank you for your time.

The best way to have a Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides) survive in the average home is to start one from a cutting. As it grows, it will become acclimatized to the environmental conditions of that room. Gardenias detest being moved from the controlled temperature and humid environment of a greenhouse to the much warmer and drier environment of most homes. If you want a Gardenia to survive in your home, you will have to create an environment just like the one where it grows naturally (southern China and Japan) with warm days, cool nights and moist, humid conditions.

The plant must have a rich, acid soil (pH of 4.5 - 5.5). A newly purchased plant will or should have this type of soil. The soil should be porous which allows water to drain through quickly and yet has the ability to retain moisture. Prepackaged acid based potting mixes that are prepared especially for gardenias, camellias and azaleas can be purchased at many garden centers. Success or failure of a plant always starts with the potting media. A plastic pot or tub with good drainage holes is the best choice for this plant as we want to keep the gardenia's soil constantly moist; clay pots dry through the sides and are better suited for cacti, succulents and other plants that prefer drier soil. Repot the plant every 2 - 3 years, unless crowded roots demand earlier repotting of the plant.

The soil must always be 'slightly damp'. Its surface should always feel moist when it is touched. This calls for frequent watering and that's why the soil has to have good porosity (drainage) so it never becomes waterlogged. Water the plant with soft, tepid water from the top of the pot. Do not let the plant stand in water. If the gardenia is over-watered, both leaves and flower buds will drop, and the roots will rot. Under-watering (allowing the soil to dry out) can also lead to leaf drop, but this is a slower process and the leaves may fall a week or two after the plant has been re-watered.

Sometimes, depending on the water supply, tap water can eventually change the pH of a soil. In other words, the soil will become alkaline instead of acidic. A plant disorder known as chlorosis can then affect the gardenia. The leaves will become pale colored (almost yellow) and have dark green veins. If this happens, the problem can be corrected by adding iron sulfate or iron chelate to the potting soil. Most garden centers sell these products. The usual mix is 1/2 ounce of either kind added to one gallon of tepid water. Water the plant with this mixture once or twice a week for a month or until the plant is back to normal health.

Daytime temperatures for the gardenia should be between 70-72 degrees F. Night temperatures are much more critical if you want the plant to bloom. If temperatures are allowed to rise higher than 60 - 62 degrees F. for even a few nights in a row, the plant will not set any new flower buds. To further complicate matters, a gardenia must not have any sudden changes in temperature, or be exposed to warm or cold drafts. Any sudden environmental changes can cause the buds to drop.

Like all flowering plants, the gardenia needs bright light in order to bloom, but not direct sunlight, especially in summer. Direct sunlight creates dry heat which is not good for humid loving plants. So, the best spot in the home is a south facing window with a light shading curtain between the plant and the window. This, however, is not enough. If cloudy weather persists for 3 or 4 days, flower buds may drop or the plant may not produce buds at all. To prevent this from happening, the plant should have artificial light provided during these dull days. Fluorescent light fixtures can be purchased that are designed especially for growing houseplants.

The plant will not tolerate dry air (low humidity levels). Place the pot on a large humidifying tray and always keep water in it. The pot must not sit in the water. If the air becomes very dry in the room, flower buds will drop. Misting the foliage is beneficial, although at times the plant seems to resent having its buds misted. Humid air will also help prevent the possibility of a red spider mite infestation.

Fertilize the plant once a month while the plant is actively growing with a water soluble acid fertilizer formulated for acid loving plants (like gardenias). These formulas are less likely to change the soils pH. Follow directions on the labels for proper amounts. Another option is to use liquid fish emulsion fertilizer and apply it every two weeks. If the plant develops pale green colored leaves, a shortage of nitrogen fertilizer is probably the cause. Do not confuse this with chlorosis previously mentioned where the leaves are pale colored with dark green veins.

To grow the plant outside, choose a semi-sunny location in which the plant will have some shade from the hot afternoon sun. It should also have protection from strong winds. The soil must be well-drained, slightly acid (add peat moss), and rich in organic matter. Well rotted manure or compost and bonemeal ( apply at the rate recommended on the container) should be added and thoroughly worked into the top foot or two of soil. As long as the plant continues to grow and flower well, additional fertilizer is not necessary. Otherwise, use the same fertilizer as you would for the houseplant and drench the soil around the plant. Keep the soil constantly moist. A 2-3 inch layer of organic matter placed over the soil will help keep the soil moist. Keep the mulch a few inches back from the base of the plant.

The houseplant grown gardenia may also be grown outside in the summer. Simply transplant it into a larger pot in the spring to allow for the summers growth, and then bury it outside in the soil giving it the same location and care as the outside plant above.

African Violet Care

I received an African violet plant for my birthday and I was wondering what is the best way to take care of it. Thanks in advance.

Oh yes, the beautiful African violet (Saintpaulia ionantha), named after Baron Walter von Saint-Illaire (1860-l910) whom discovered this tender perennial herb in Tanzania, Africa, is probably the most common flowering houseplant known. The species name ionantha means 'with violet flowers' (referring to the color), although today we can choose plants with reds, corals, pinks, blues, purples and white flowers. Besides the many different colors, the flowers can be single, semi-double, frilled, double, star-shaped, edged, multi-colored or bi-colored. The leaves also come in a variety of forms and variegated color. The African violet belongs to the Gesneriaceae family.

African violets have thick leaves which are paler green on the undersides and covered with short, dense hairs on the surface. These leaves grow on the ends of long petioles (leaf stems) and are arranged in a rosette pattern.

To keep your African violet healthy and free-flowering the year around, it must have bright indirect light, but never any strong, direct sunlight. They thrive in an east window, a west window (with some shading provided during the hottest part of summer), or a south window all year around if a curtain made from some type of gauzy material is used to shade them from the hot sun. If the plant is located where it receives less than 300 foot candles of light, it will not bloom. African violets are easy to grow and bring into flower under bright artificial light. All that is needed is two 40 watt fluorescent tubes placed 12 inches above the plants and left on for approximately 12 - 14 hours each day. An automatic timer will look after the chore of turning the lights on and off. It's easy to tell if your plant is not receiving adequate light. The leaves will grow or point upwards instead of lying flat or growing horizontally.

This plant originates in a climate that is very warm, so it must have warm temperatures in the home. 75 degrees F. or warmer during the day and 68 - 70 degrees F. at night are best. They must never be placed where they are subjected to cold drafts or put in places that can change in temperature suddenly. They will not bloom if the temperature is lower than 65 degrees F.

Due to the delicate root hairs, the soil must not be allowed to dry out. As soon as the media's surface approaches dryness, the plant must be watered. Water it with tepid water from the top of the pot using a watering can that has a long spout on it so water will not splash onto the leaves. Never use cold water because it will not only shock the plant, but its leaves ugly white or brown splotches on the leaves if it should hit them. Once in a while the plant should be bottom watered by placing the pot in a saucer of tepid water and letting it soak up until the media's surface appears wet.

Supply humidity for your plant by setting it on a pebble tray or surrounding it with moist sphagnum peat moss. Misting is not recommended for any plants that have hairy or fuzzy leaves. Take the plant to the kitchen sink or bathtub and give it a tepid, gentle spraying at least once a month to refresh it and clean the leaves. After all, rain falls on them where they grow naturally. Do not wipe the leaves to clean them, dust them with a feather duster, and never use any of those leaf shine products on their leaves.

To fertilize the plant, dilute the fertilizer to ½ strength and pour it onto the soil's surface until it runs out of the drainage holes. (½ strength - if the directions suggest using ½ teaspoon of fertilizer, use only ¼ teaspoon in the suggested amount of water). Apply this solution every 4 - 6 weeks if necessary to keep the plants blooming. Over fertilizing can easily burn those delicate root hairs. African violet plant food or any houseplant fertilizer is o.k. They may like a change from a high phosphorous fertilizer to one higher in nitrogen periodically.

New plants are easily propagated from new crowns that develop periodically. Separate them with a sharp knife, being sure each plantlet has a few roots, and pot them up in African violet soil. Leaf cuttings are also used to propagate new plants. The leaf must have the stem (petiole) attached to it. Choose leaves that are healthy and medium aged, not real young ones or real old ones. You can remove them from the plant by placing your thumb on the petiole of the leaf, right next to the stem, and press gently down on it. It should just snap off. If the petiole breaks off, you must cut off the portion left on the stem right next to the stem, or it will rot. The next step is to cut the petiole shorter so that only one inch remains fastened to the leaf. Insert this leaf ½ inch deep into moist rooting media (vermiculite, sand, or pre-packaged rooting media for cuttings) at a 45 degree angle. Never insert the leaf so it stands straight up. Keep the media moist and warm. In a few months one or more little plants will develop at the soil line. When large enough to handle, usually when the leaves are about ½ inch long, divide them carefully with a sharp knife (if there is more than one plantlet). Each plantlet must have some roots. It's easier to see the little roots if you wash them carefully before trying to divide them. Plant them in African violet soil immediately after dividing them. These little plants will generally start blooming in 5-6 months if growing conditions are ideal. Finally, when the old plant becomes tall and lanky, the top of the plant can be cut off and rooted to start a new short plant.

Boston Fern - Brown Tips

Hi Brian. I am having a problem with my Boston fern. It is turning brown on the tips. I like my fern. Help!

The two most probable causes of tip browning on your Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis) are very dry air and allowing the soil to dry too much before it is re-watered.

It sounds like the tips of the fronds have begun to brown all of a sudden. The location of the plant may have something to do with this. If your plant is located directly in front of a south window, it could be receiving too much direct sun as the days are getting longer. Direct sun alone can damage a ferns pinnae (leaflets). Boston ferns will not do well in either full sun or full shade. They do best in filtered sunlight or light shade, thriving in light of 200-400 foot candles.

As the sun gets stronger and shines longer each day, the air around your plant will become warmer and drier for longer periods of time each day in comparison to the shorter winter days. The plant will use up soil moisture at a much quicker rate as it transpires for longer periods each day. Fern leaflets are very thin and loose water rapidly. If the soil is allowed to dry for even short periods of time, a combination of dry air and dry soil will result in tip browning. Try to maintain a high humidity level around your plant by misting it several times a day in the morning and early afternoon, providing a pebble tray for it to sit on, place moist sphagnum peat moss around it or placing shallow containers of water near heat registers in the room, if possible.

Furthermore, Boston ferns can grow very quickly and fill the pot with roots. These roots can become so dense that water cannot run into the soil. A lack of water by this cause could be causing the problem even though you may be faithfully watering the plant. With the longer spring like days, a new flush of growth could be adding to the problem as the plant will demand more water. Ideally, these plants should be divided and repotted each spring in fresh, new compost. I cut some of my divisions right down to the soil line when I repot them. By doing so, the new plants are uniform and even in growth and they do not have to compete with the older fronds. On the other side of things, be sure you are not over-watering your fern as this can lead to root rot and eventual death of the plant. Ferns love an evenly moist soil. When you water the plant, water from the top of the pot using tepid water and continue adding water until it runs out of the drainage holes. Let the soils surface just approach dryness, then soak it again. Do not let the pot stand in water in the catch basin.

Be careful not to over fertilize the plant. A high concentration of salts in the soil can definitely turn the tips brown. They only need a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20- (applied at ½ the recommended strength suggested on the label) twice a year. Early spring and mid summer are generally enough, unless you notice weak, slowed growth with paler green leaflets.. Always add bonemeal to your potting media when you repot them. (2 tablespoons per gallon of media mix). Bonemeal is a wonderful source of plant food for any plant, inside or outside.

Be sure that the tips are not touching walls, window panes (anything), and pets or people are not bruising or brushing the tips or fronds. Browning and leaf-drop will occur.

Occasionally, old fronds on a Boston fern will turn brown. Simply cut them off at the soil line. Good luck with your plant.

Ponytail Plant

Common Name: Ponytail Plant; Elephant Foot Tree; Bottle Palm

Botanical Name: Beaucarnea recurvata

Plant Family: Liliaceae (Lily Family)

This truly interesting plant is a native of Mexico. It is unclear where the genus name 'Beaucarnea' originated, but the species name 'recurvata' means 'recurving back on it's self' and refers to the plants grassy leaves. The narrow, stiff, dark glossy green leaves grow upward (arising from a bulbous root which protrudes above the soil line), and then bend over and hang down in pony tail fashion. As the plant matures, the swollen bulbous trunk with its greyish brown, wrinkled textured bark looks like an elephants foot or a large bottle, the reason for the other two common names. When grown as a houseplant, the Ponytail plant averages 2 feet in height, but can reach heights of 5 - 6 feet under optimum conditions.

Not only is the Ponytail plant a real conversation piece, but it is also a very carefree plant that can live for many, many years. The best location for this plant is a sunny south window or a very brightly lit spot in the home provided by artificial light of around 1000 foot candles. If the plant is receiving less than ½ day of sunshine where it is located, the leaves will become weak, pale colored and eventually succumb to the low light conditions and die.

Normal household temperatures suit the plant well as it can tolerate any temperature between 45 and 90 degrees F. As for humidity, the average home is fine as the plant does not require misting or any special treatment.

The Ponytail is a succulent plant, so be careful not to over-water it. The large basal bulb acts as a water reservoir, so, when drought hits the deserts of Mexico, the plant endures it with little problem. I keep the soil moist in spring and summer and moderately dry in the winter months. Moderately dry is allowing the top ½ inch of soil to dry before the plant is thoroughly watered again.

If the plant requires repotting, the best time is very early spring before it starts growing. It can be held back in size by leaving it in the same pot for 2 or 3 years, or made to grow quickly by repotting it each spring into a larger container. The media should be porous to allow for good drainage. A gritty media consisting of one part loam, one part peat moss, one part perlite or sharp sand, with one tablespoon each of bonemeal and crushed limestone per gallon of media is best. Otherwise, any cactus and succulent prepackaged potting soil works as well. This plant should only be fertilized once a year in early spring once growth has started.

The Ponytail Plant is seldom bothered by insects or disease. If the leaf tips should turn yellow or brown, simply trim them back to green tissue forming a point as you cut. Propagation is by offsets (not easy to start them) or from sowing seed, although for the average home gardener, purchasing a new plant from a garden center is probably the route to go.

Propagation Via Cutting

Recently I asked a question about Japanese spurge, and I wanted to thank you for your prompt, thorough, and informative answer. What a great resource! That was exactly what I needed to know and I intend trying some of your suggestions. I was unclear on one little point. In the method of propogation using floral foam you said to "cut through the node". Should that be an angular cut, leaving half of the node on the cutting, as well as a sharp point to insert into the foam, or a straight across cut right through the middle of the node. If I don't hear back I will use the diagonal cut. Thanks again for your help.

The cut should be made straight through or across the lower part of the node using a razor sharp instrument. Nodes are growing points and produce roots more quickly than any other point on a stem. This is very obvious with plants like Syngonium podophyllum (Nephthytis, arrowhead vine) and Philodendron scandens (Heart-leaf Philodendron) for examples, that produce visible aerial roots at each node on their stems. The more surface area a node has, the more roots it can produce. If we leave more tissue (stem) below the node than is necessary, the stem will rot up to the node where a protective callous will then form. Leaving more stem to rot than is necessary would make no sense.

Sharp cutting tools make clean, flat wounds on both the cutting and the parent plant. Smooth cuts will heal quickly and leave no jagged edges for disease organisms to settle in.

Over the years, I have found that experimenting with different options is not only fun, but is the best teacher. In this way, we are also not putting all our eggs in one basket, so to speak. For fun and curiosity, make diagonal cuts on a few cuttings and straight cuts on a few others. Place these cuttings in the same flat, but keep them separated by putting one type on one side of the flat, and the other type on the other side. Label them 'diagonal' and 'straight' so you will not forget which is which. Using the same flat gives both types identical environmental conditions. Once they have rooted, compare the two. There may be quite a difference in the size and number of roots, or perhaps not enough difference to worry about which way we make the cuttings. This is what makes gardening fun and interesting. If, however, one part of the cuttings in the flat are far superior than the other, you will have proven and know the best way to take cuttings. On a final note, there are times when cuttings simply won't strike (take root). Don't be discouraged, the next time may result in 100% success.

Silver Dollar Plant

I have a silver dollar plant that is slowly committing suicide, and it is tearing me up. I have tried giving it more water, giving it less water, giving it more sun, giving it less sun, letting it watch television, everything I can think of, yet it continually loses leaves. It is now down to a long stalk and one lone leaf, yet it sprouted up a smaller version of itself, that seems to be doing well (it at least has two leaves).

What am I doing wrong? And how do I convince it that life is worth living?

Your Silver Dollar plant (Crassula arborescens) (I am assuming this is the one, as several plants are named Silver Dollar Plant) appears to be losing leaves due to inconsistency in its watering as well as occasional changes in its environment. There are also many programs on T.V. that can shock plants as well as people. The two most common causes of leaf drop with succulent plants is watering the plant with very cold water straight from the tap (use tepid water) and allowing the soil to dry below the critical level. Over dryness of the soil followed by a flashflood of water can cause leaf-drop almost instantly. Extreme changes in daytime and nighttime temperatures as well as cold drafts can shock plants into loosing their leaves. This is common if a plant is located between a window and a drawn curtain at night. A pot-bound plant may not be receiving enough water to meet its needs or the plant may be starving. As there are many causes of leaf-drop associated with plants, it is often easier to describe what the plant needs to keep it healthy and growing vigorously as opposed to guessing what might be causing your plant to drop its leaves.

Silver Dollar plants must have a well-drained soil consisting of two parts loam and one part perlite or coarse sand. Mix one tablespoonful of bonemeal with each gallon of this mix to promote a healthy root system. Repot the plant when roots are visible or growing through the drainage holes.

The plant must have bright light and is best located near a south facing window, never so close that leaves touch the window pane. Rotate the plant every week or so to ensure even light and growth to all sides. The windows must not have any leaks which can cause cold drafts or windows must not be opened during cold weather. Otherwise, bright artificial light must be provided for this plant to succeed.

Temperature wise, Silver Dollar plants enjoy daytime highs of 70-75 degrees F. and cooler nights of 55-65 degrees F. They are not that fussy, as long as there are no extreme fluctuations in temperature.

While the plant is actively growing in spring and summer (anytime) the soil should be kept evenly moist. When the soils surface approaches dryness, water the plant from the top of the pot using tepid water and keep watering it until water runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. Do not let the pot stand in water. While the plant is dormant (winter months - a plant is dormant when there are no new small leaves appearing), let the soil dry to about ¼ inch below the surface and then thoroughly water the plant as above. My personal experience with this plant is that it does not like the soil to dry out completely before it is watered again.

These plants are not fussy about humidity, although they love a tepid shower now and again to clean their leaves and refresh them. Fertilize them with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 'Cactus Juice' 1-7-6 when they start new growth in the spring and once again in the summer (July). Be sure the soil is moist before fertilizing any houseplant.

To rejuvenate your plant, cut the stem back to 3 inches from the base if the new shoot is below this height and repot it in fresh potting media. If the new shoot is above the 3 inch height, you may let it grow to 3-4 inches in length and then use it as a cutting to propagate a new plant. They root very easily in moist sand. The short 3 inch stub may put out new growth from dormant buds and you will end up with two Silver Dollar plants.