Spidermites

I have a problem with spidermites on a jasmine plant. I recently bought a jasmine plant at a nursery. The plant was healthy and pest free but has developed an infestation of spidermites. I have had jasmine plants before and this seems to be a recurring problem. Note: I used a new pot and bought new potting soil when I transplanted it from the nursery's container.

Spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis)

Spidermites are normally a problem when the temperature is too warm and the humidity levels are too low in the home. Try lowering the temperature, if possible, to 60 - 65 degrees F. at night and increase the humidity levels around the plant by misting it in the morning and setting the pot on a pebble tray filled with water. Do not let the pot sit in the water of course. Place pans of water near all of the heat registers in the home also. Spidermites thrive in hot, dry conditions but do not generally become a problem when temperatures are cooler and the air very humid.

To rid the plant of the spidermites. first remove any really badly infested leaves and then place the potted plant in the shower for a couple of days and spray it several times a day with a fairly good force of water, being sure to spray underneath the leaves as well. Remove any webbing if it is present as the mites hide behind it.

After doing this, spray the plant with a pyrethrum spray or use safers insecticidal soap and be sure to cover all parts of the plant, especially underneath the leaves where the mites usually dwell. Repeat the applications every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 5 weeks to kill any re-appearing spidermites that hatch from deposited eggs.

Spidermites will hide behind baseboards and other places, so constant monitoring of houseplants is necessary. Pyrethrum may be sprayed along baseboards to help control the insects if children or pets are not in the home. ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS WHEN USING PESTICIDES! If it is not too cold outside, the plant should be taken out of doors and sprayed and then brought back into the home.

Transplanting Fig Tree

I have a dark purple edible fig tree transplanted into its spot 10 years ago. It is already Thanksgiving in New York and it must be moved before next summer. When and how or can it be done. PLEASE HELP.

Fig Tree (Ficus carica)

Your dark purple edible fig tree can be transplanted to a new location as long as a sufficient amount of roots remain with the tree when it is dug up. The 'rule of thumb' is to have a 1 foot in diameter rootball for every 1 inch in diameter of tree trunk (located at ground level). For example, if the trunk is 3 inches in diameter, the rootball should be 3 feet in diameter. With trees this size, a mechanical tree spade is normally used to move them. If a machine is unable to get close enough to the tree due to the trees location and (providing the tree is not too large), you may try digging it by hand. Prune the branches back 1 to 2 feet to compensate for the loss of roots once the tree is dug. Cut them back to healthy buds.

Start by digging around the perimeter of the tree at the appropriate distance from the trunk. Dig down 10 to 12 inches if possible. Don't be affraid to cut clean through the large roots near the edge where you start digging. Keep pushing the spade inwards and prying upwards on the spade as you continue to dig around the tree, working your way towards the center of the tree. When you reach the center of the tree, you will probably have to cut throught the taproot to free the tree completely. Try to keep the soil attached to the roots and have someone help you lift it unto a large sheet of plastic which can be wrapped around the rootball to prevent it from drying out. If the dirt falls off the roots, wet the roots down and wrap them up with moist peatmoss (or any moist material) in a sheet of plastic as soon as the tree is dug. To replant your tree, refer to 'The Fruit Garden' in the archives for planting instructions.

Fig trees can be planted in early spring before growth starts, or they may be planted in the fall if there is at least a good month before the ground freezes. The roots will continue to grow in the fall once the tree is dormant as long as the ground has not frozen. Do not plant them in late fall.

Figs root very easily from cuttings, so save several of the branches you prune off the tree to start a new tree, just in case the original tree does not survive the transplanting. Fig trees often produce fruit from cuttings in 2 years.

Ripening Figs

My cuttings are two year old and are growing nicely and producing some figs. Do the figs ripen on the tree or should they be picked green? Some people put a tent over them... is it to temperate on the Westcoast for them to ripen naturally? They still have fruit (Nov. 9/010). Should these be picked off, or left alone? The leaves fell off two days ago. When do I need to prune for this zone?

Thank-you.

Fig Tree Fruit (Ficus carica)

Figs must be allowed to ripen on the tree. They should not be left on the tree for too long once they have ripened. The tents are used to shelter the trees and retain heat at night which in turn speeds up ripening of the fruit (figs).

Figs trees tend to 'bleed', so prune your trees only in the dormant season (late winter or early spring), about two to three weeks before any trees or shrubs start to leaf out in your area. Unwanted suckers should be removed as soon as they are noticed at any time of the growing season.

Rubber Plant Propagation

I have a large ficus plant. I think it's also called rubber plant. It is very much "out of control" and I'm trying to take some cuttings to start a new, smaller plant from it. What would be the best way of doing it to make sure that it'll take?

Rubber Plant

The method I always use, and it has never failed me, is to air-layer the rubber plant. This, however, is best done in March or April. This method can be used now, but it may take a lot longer for the plant to root. If the plant has more than one stem, you can air-layer each one of these.

First, look at the top part of the plant and decide where it will make a nice looking plant. The length dosn't really matter, although any length over 12 inches may require staking when you pot it up after it has rooted. There should be at least 6 leaves on the top part which will be the new plant.

On a straight part of the stem, just below the top portion you choose to be the new plant, strip off several of the lower leaves right next to the stem. About 3 - 4 inches below the bottom leaves of the top portion,cut a horizontal slit into the stem about 1/4 inch deep. Turn the knife up at this point and make an upward cut 1 inch long. Stick a piece of wooden match or some moss in this slit to keep the two parts separated. The tongue (slit) may be dusted with a rooting hormone powder, although this is not entirely necessary.

Next, cut the bottom off of a clear plastic bread bag, cut the bag in half, and carefully slide it over the top portion of the plant down to the wound on the stem. Tie or tape the bottom of the bread bag to the stem about 1 or 2 inches below the wound. Now form a ball with moist sphagnum moss around the wound on the stem and tie or tape it tighly at the top to prevent moisture from escaping. The moss ball should be around 4 or 5 inches in diameter.

In two to three months, you should be able to see a mass of roots through the plastic bag. This indicates the plant is ready to be potted up in fresh new potting soil. Remove the plastic bag from the rootball and cut the stem off on a slight angle below the rootball just above a node on the parent plant. Gently tease out most of the moss from the rootball and plant the rootball in a flower pot that is about 2 inches bigger than the rootball. Spread out the roots when planting and gently firm soil around the roots so as not to damage them. Water the plant and place it out of direct sunlight. Treat it as as any new cutting until it has become established.

The parent plant stem may put out new growth from dormant buds after the top portion has been removed, so do not throw it away. You may end up with another new rubber plant from the old stem portion.

Leaf-bud cuttings can be made by cutting just above a node and one inch below the node. A leaf will be attached to the node of course. Roll the leaf up to form a cylinder with the waxy part of the leaf facing out and tie it with a piece of string to keep it rolled up. This will prevent loss of moisture from the leaf. Place the one inch piece of stem in moist soilless mix with the node just above the media. Push a stick through the middle of the rolled up leaf into the media to keep it from falling over. Keep the media warm if possible. Once the stem piece has rooted, it may be transplanted into good potting soil. In two years time these leaf bud cuttings will make a good sized plant. Good luck!

Wintering Dahlias

My neighbor has a bad back and requested that I remove her Dahlias to bring in for the winter. I am vegetable gardener and don't know the first thing about pulling out plants and storing them inside for the winter. Can you help out with some advice?

Just use a good strong potato fork or a spade to dig up the dahlia roots. Dig far enough back from the plant so as not to damage any of the roots. Clean off as much soil from the tubers as possible and cut off the stems about 11/2 inch from the tuber. Any damaged roots should be cut straight across and dusted with fine sulphur to prevent the root from rotting. Wrap the roots in newspaper or cover them with vermiculite, sand or moss (to prevent them from shrivelling) and store them in a cool root cellar or the like around 35 to 50 degrees F.

North Carolina Plant Stores

Do you have a name of a plant business where my mother can buy a Beaucarnea recurvata? I am from North Carolina.

Beaucarnea recurvata

First, check with your local floral shops or garden centers. If they do not have one, they maybe able to order you one. Otherwise, try one of these addresses:

Natures Curiosity Shop
2560 Ridgeway Drive
National City, CA 92050

Kirkpatrick's Rare & Unusual Cactus
27785 De Anza Street
Barstow, CA 92311

Cactus by Mueller
10411 Rosedale Highway
Barkersfield, CA 93308

Jessup's Cactus Nursery
P.O. Box 327
Aromas, CA 95004

Fernwood Plants
P.O. Box 268
Topanga, CA 90290

Singer's Growing Things
6a385 Enfield Avenue
Reseda, CA 91335

Abbey Gardens
176 Toro Canyon Road
Carpinteria, CA 93013

Cut Back Yucca

How do I cut back the clusters on Yucca plants? I have 6 or 7 growing out of one originally and it's way too big. What do I do?

Yucca

If you want to start new plants from the clusters you cut off the plant, you should do this in late winter or early spring. If you just want to make the plant smaller, you can remove them (or some of them) now.

If the clusters are growing out from the stem, simply slice that cluster off with a sharp knife right next to the main stem. If the clusters are forming at the base from suckers as with stemless varities ( I do not know which type you have), find the rhizome just below the soils surface and slice it off with a sharp knife as close to the main plant as possible. It won't hurt to dust these cut surfaces with a fungicide which you can obtain at a garden center.

Eradicate Mites

My Gardenia which was out all summer has now developed zillions of what apepars to be mites thats are spinning webs over the plants branch tips, how do I eradicate them?

Gardenia jasminoides

Firstly, spray the plant with water from a garden hose to dislodge as many mites as possible (do this outside). Mites do not like high humidity, so spraying with water several times a day will often get rid of the pests. Watch the plant carefully for awhile as new mites may appear from unhatched eggs.

If you use pesticides, Dienochlor (Pentac Aquaflow or Pentac WP) is safe on Gardenia's, as is Fenpropathrin (Tame 2.4 EC). These pesticides must be registered for use in your state before you can use them.

A Horticultural oil may also be used to suffocate these pests. Complete coverage of the plant is necessary. "SunSpray Ultra Fine Spray Oil" is one of these oils.

ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS BEFORE USING ANY CHEMICALS.

Mango Tree

How can I make my mango tree leaves greener and healthier? I have about six tyes in backyard and some are greener. Thank you.

Mango Tree

We cannot grow mangos in our area, so I do not know anything about them. I would suggest that you ask your local horticultural agency or university about your trees.

Maybe different types of mango trees have slightly different colored leaves.

Nitrogen fertilizer is the nutrient responsible for the green color of leaves. The best way to determine what your soil needs is to take soil samples and have them analyzed. It would be wrong for me to suggest adding anything to your soil if it is not needed.

Silver Dollar Plant From Seed

I was given silver dollar plant seeds. I was told they grow to be very thin and wafer like. When and how should I plant these seeds? They were given to me by someone living in Seattle, WA so there a big climate difference compared to Charleston, SC.

Silver Dollar Plant (Lunaria annua)

I am assuming you are referring to the silver dollar plant (Lunaria annua), also commonly known as 'honey' or ' moonwort'. It is the seed pods that are very thin and wafer like.

These plants are biennial and bloom the 2nd year in most cases. The seeds are sown outdoors in May in well prepared soil in nursery beds. Sow them thinly in rows,1/2 inch deep with 12 inches between the rows. Thin the seedlings shortly after they emerge if they are too crowded, giving them just enough room to develop. Keep the soil between the rows loose and weed free with frequent hoeing.

When autumn arrives (September and October) transplant them to their final place where they will bloom the following year. Once the seed pods have been cut for decorations, the plant should be dug up and thrown away. If a few plants are left in the garden, they will generally self sow from that time on for a continuous crop of flowers.

Dwarf Lemon and Tangerine Trees

I have a dwarf lemon and tangerine tree. The fruit has not turned ripe yet. What do I need to do as the hot weather is coming to an end. Thank you.

Citrus Tree

You will have to bring your plants inside and set them in a spot where they will recieve no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight per day ( 8 hours is best). Otherwise, provide them with bright artificial light. Give them average room temperatures during the day, and night temperatures in the 50's. The soil should be allowed to dry out slightly between thorough waterings.

If they have been fertilized in the late summer, they will not need fertilizing again until early spring. Put them in the shower every 2nd or 3rd week and wash them off with a gentle spray to control spider mites and mealy bugs.

It is not uncommon for citrus species to be in flower and have both green and ripe fruit on the plant all at the same time.