Drooping Devil's Backbone

I bought a Devils Backbone from Home Depot for 98 cents. I put it in a small pot on the patio and forgot about it for a while and it drooped. I gave it a little water and it started growing straight up again. But now I have a plant stem that goes over the rim of the pot, touches the shelf, and is currently straight up about 12 inches from the shelf. Any suggestions to make it straight?

Kalanchoe

I don't think it would be possible to straighten the plant as the stems are generally fairly rigid on a kalanchoe. It would probably end up breaking.

If you can be patient, and your plant is in a good bright spot, it should start producing tiny plantlets at the edges of the serrated leaves before too long. These little plantlets grow quickly and many will even develop roots while they are still attached to the leaf. They may be gently detached from the leaves and placed on the surface of a pot of gritty soil. You'll soon have a nice, new straight plant, or perhaps hundreds.

While waiting for these plantlets to emerge, you may want to set the bottom end of the bent stem (the part touching the shelf) in another pot of soil, so that one node (the spot where the leaf emerges from the stem) is covered with soil. You will have to remove the leaves from that node. Keep the soil just moist and before long the buried section should root. If it does, (you will be able to tell by tugging it gently - it will resist) you can then cut it away from the crooked stem and you will have a new straight plant. Cut the old crooked part of the stem in the original pot back to about two nodes from the soil's surface, and you may have another plant start from adventitious or dormant buds.

If it dosn't root for you using the above method, you can make a cutting from the top of the plant in spring. Let the bottom of the cutting heal for about 2 days before inserting it in a well drained media to root. These generally root really easy, but, if it dosn't for some unknown reason, you will only be out .98 cents. Best of luck!

Banyan Tree

I recently purchased a new house with a very large Banyan tree (ficus) that is 15 feet from my house. We live on an island and the house is supported by pilings. I was told to remove the tree because of the large roots. Is there an alternative?

Banyan Tree (Ficus)

In warm humid regions, the Banyan tree (Ficus benghalensis or Ficus indica) can reach heights of 100 feet at maturity. As it matures, aerial roots that develop from the branches grow down, root in the soil and become new trunks. These new trunks in turn send out more branches, send down more aerial roots, and the cycle continues. These roots can grow relentlessly and the tree spreads laterally indefinitely. A mature trees canopy can eventually cover an area more than 1,000 feet in diameter. One tree can eventually become a dense thicket of entangled trunks and stems. Ficus naturally have a large, shallow underground root system as well. The large roots have been known to split rocks as they enter small cracks in the rocks while the roots are young and enlarge as they mature.

I have no way of knowing what size your tree could eventually become, but knowing the nature of the tree, it may be wise to replace it with something a little less aggressive, like perhaps a beautiful, fragrant Magnolia. Other than this, continual root pruning with a chainsaw, above and below ground, or moving the house may be the only alternatives.

Fig Tree Pruning

I have several fig trees (bushes). What pruning method should I use for our area (Kentucky)? They are all in bush form now and about 10 feet tall (we had alot of rain this summer). Due to the unusaully cold December we had last year they froze out and I cut them down to the ground.

Fig Tree

As figs only produce fruit on one- and two-year-old wood, the older wood will not bear fruit and therefore is of no value to you. So, the idea is to prune to keep producing new growth that will bear fruit and be at a convienient height for picking. If the bush is low enough, it can even be wrapped with spruce boughs, burlap or paper in the winter to protect the branches from hard frosts.

The normal procedure with bush forms is to prune back the leading branches in midspring by about 2/3 to encourage stronger growth. Each spring thereafter, prune out dead, badly spaced and overcrowded branches and cut back one or two of the longest branches to a few buds at their base to stimulate new growth.

May I suggest that you contact your local Horticulture, Agriculture or University Departments for the type of pruning practices they would recommend for your area. In Kentucky you might try the following address's:

Bulletin Room
Experiment Station Bldg.
University of Kentucky
Lexington, KY 40506

Robert Anderson
University of Kentucky
Dept. of Hort. & Arch. Landscape
Lexington, KY 40546-0091
Phone: (606) 257-4721

Blue Rosebushes and Snakeplants

Any idea where I can help a friend in Canada locate "a blue-flowering rosebush and a mother-in-law's tongue"? That's all the info I have.

Blue Rose

A mother-in-law's-tongue should be easy to find in any of the large shopping centers that handle plants like Home Depot, etc. or any floral shop in your area. Otherwise they are sold at:

Pike Lake Greenhouses
Box 72, R.R.3
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
S7K 3J6
Phone: (306) 668-4706

As for a blue flowering rose, the closest one to being blue that I know of is "Blue Moon" which is more of a lilac color. These nurseries might handle the rose, or know where you could get one:

McConnell Nursery Co. Ltd.
Port Burwell, Ontario
Canada N0J 1T0

Carl Pallek and Sons Nurseries
Box 137
Virgil, Ontario
Canada L0S 1T0

Devil's Backbone?

I have a plant that seems similar to Devils Backbone and would like to know its name. I assume that it is in the same family. It differs in that instead of alternate pairs of leaves, it has three leaves that alternate. Although the baby plants start off with pairs of leaves. The leaves are ~1"x0.25-0.5". The stem is straight with no branches. The original plants are ~1' high now, the stem is .25" in diameter. Your help is greatly appreciated. I can send you a pictures of it if this will help.

Kalanchoe pinnata

Although there are many, many different species in this plant family, your Kalanchoe could be Kalanchoe pinnata (Bryophyllum pinnatum). Common names include: Airplant, Lifeplant and Floppers. The leaves are in three's as you described. Maybe you could find a good picture of this plant for identification. Please e-mail me back as I would be interested in knowing whether this is or is not the plant. In any case, this would be my only surmise.

Quince Leaves Turning Yellow

Why do some of my quince shrubs produce yellow to white leaves in July, while others maintain their deep green foliage? All shrubs are of the same variety and have coral colored blooms in May.

Quince shrub

This occassionally happens through some type of physiological disorder in which the leaf lacks chlorophyll or the green pigment which produces the green color of leaves. This happens now and again with many different plants. If this is the reason your leaves are yellow and white, it does not harm the plant.

If the yellow to white leaves have been growing on the same twigs or branches for several years now, it could be possible that these are clones or mutations. In this case, you could be the founder of a new variegated plant. These new shrubs could then only be reproduced by vegetative propagation such as cuttings or budding. This is not likely with your shrubs though as their leaves change color in July.

Dipladenia Hardiness

I planted a dipladenia in the yard. I'm assuming in the zone I live it that it will die back in the winter and reemerge in the spring like my pentas and lantana. Do you know? If not, I guess I will have to grow it as a potted plant.

Dipladenia

Dipladenia is a very tender evergreen climber which can only be grown successfully out of doors the year around in southern Florida. It is otherwise treated as a greenhouse or houseplant in colder parts of the country.

As a houseplant, it needs bright indirect light (curtain filtered south window), night temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F., day temperatures above 70 degrees F., even moisture during the growing season and kept slightly on the dry side during the resting or dormant period. Use a fertilizer like 10-20-10 in spring and summer and feed once a month. A good media consists of equal parts peat moss, potting soil and perlite or coarse sand.

Dahlia Propagation

Can a dahlia cactus, decorative dahlia, and dahlia ball produce seeds in their flowers for growing new plants or must they be started from tubers? Can I plant them from a part of the branch? Thank you and best regards.

Dahlia

In climates where Dahlias can be left outside all year around, the tubers are dug up in early spring before growth starts and then divided. In cold regions, Dahlia tubers must be brought indoors and put into storage after the first frost.

In early spring, dig up a clump of tubers before growth starts, or take them out of storage, depending where you live. Divide the tubers into sections, being sure each section has at least one healthy dormant bud (eye) and one tuber. Use a clean, sharp knife to divide the tubers. Dust each cut surface with a fungicide to prevent rot and plant as soon as possible in 4 to 6 inches of good garden soil.

To start from seed, sow in flats in February in sandy loam or any seed starting media. Cover the flats with glass and paper to keep the soil moist and the flat dark. Maintain a temperature of 55 to 60 degrees F. When seedlings are from 1 to 2 inches tall, pot each one up singly in small pots and then transplant to a larger pot once they have become well-rooted. Harden the plants off before planting in the garden.

To start Dahlias from basal stem cuttings, tubers are forced into growth in late winter by placing them in a flat of soil mix with the top of the tuber exposed. Keep the media moist and place the tubers in a slightly shaded spot out of direct sunlight. A temperature of 54 degrees F should be maintained. When the new shoots are approximately 4 inches tall, cut them out of the tuber, leaving a small piece of tuber attached to each one. Throw away the old tuber. Remove the bottom leaves and insert the shoot up to the bottom of the remaining leaves in a well-drained rooting medium (sand, vermiculite, etc.). Place a plastic bag over the flat or pots to keep them humid and close and maintain temperatures around 65 to 68 degrees F. When new growth is noticed, gradually reduce the humidity and repot each shoot in its own 3 or 4 inch pot.

For cuttings, force tubers into growth as above in February or early March. With this method, remove the 3 to 4 inch tall shoots by cutting directly above the lowest node of each shoot in order to leave a bud on the tuber. (This bud will grow into a new shoot and more cuttings can be taken from the same tuber). To make the cutting from the above shoots, cut off the bottom piece of stem about ¼ inch below the lowest node on the shoot and trim off the outer tissue of the stem below this node. Remove all but the top 2 leaves and insert the cuttings in a soilless rooting media in individual 2 or 3 inch pots. Keep the soil moist and maintain temperatures around 65 degrees F. The old tuber can be used to make more cuttings or it can be planted out in the garden in spring. If it is replanted, be sure it is fertilized well.

Boston Fern Propagation

How do you propogate a Boston fern?

There are two easy ways to propagate a Boston Fern. One way is to take the plant out of the pot and carefully seperate the divisions. They may be tightly rooted together, so a bit of patience is necessary. Just pot up the individual plants. The other way is to pin down the long fuzzy, wiry runners that have no leaves on them (if your plant has any), onto a pot of moist soil. Once they are well rooted and a new little fern starts to grow,you can cut off the wiry runner. Good luck!

Tip Layering

I need information on tip layering. Where can I find information about that? Thank you.

Blackberry bush - Rubus fruticosus

Tip layering is very simple. This usually works best with plants such as brambles or canes ( blackberries, etc.), otherwise, for most ornamental plants, serpentine layering is preferred or better. Late summer is the best time to tip layer a plant.

To tip layer a plant, simply dig a 4 to 6 inch deep hole in good garden soil, choose a healthy, vigorous cane near the edge of the parent plant, bend it down and bury the tip of this cane in the hole. Peg it down if necessary to keep it from moving. Keep the soil moist. In a few weeks the tip should be rooted. It can be lifted and potted in a pot of soil, or it may be left where it has rooted and then transplanted in the spring. In either case, leave about 9 inches of the old cane on the tip when you severe it from the parent plant.

Trim Yew in Spring or Fall?

I have some yews that need triming. Six are about 3 feet high and need about one foot trimed off. The other is very large, approximately 20 feet long 5 feet deep and 5 feet high. I need to trim about 3 feet off the width. When is the best time of year to do this, I have read both fall & spring. Thank you.

Yew tree

I would have to suggest spring is the best time of the year, before new growth starts. By the time fall rolls around, unsightly cuts will be filled in with new growth, whereas, with late summer of fall pruning this can not happen. Besides this, yews respond well to renewal treatment if they are pruned in early spring before new growth commences. Dormant buds will send out a flush of new growth from the old wood.

Shubert Chokecherry Height

Do you have anything that describes how tall a shubert chokecherry tree will get when fully mature (prunus virginiana melanocarpa)? Thanks.

Shubert Chokecherry - Prunus virginiana melanocarpa

The Shubert Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana melanocarpa cv Shubert) averages 21 feet in height at maturity with about the same spread. Heights vary depending on the location of the plant, soil type, moisture etc. The tree is a clone cultivar of Prunus virginiana melanocarpa and was selected in the wild near Valley City, North Dakota.

The trees special attraction is in the color of the leaves. They emerge as green in the spring, later turning to a dark purple color. In autumn, they turn to a nice red color.

In mid to late May small white flowers are borne on long racemes, followed by black berry like fruits which are astringent ( cause the mouth to pucker) but edible. These fruits make a wonderful jelly. At least one third of the fruit should be under-ripe when making jelly as these contain more pectin.

To maintain a good tree like structure, the tree generally requires annual pruning. A bad habit of the tree is to produce suckers from the rhizomatous roots. These suckers can be used to propagate new trees, otherwise, they should be removed as soon as they appear.

Shubert Chokecherry is susceptible to Black Knot fungus, although not as readily as the species. If the black lesions are noticed, they should be removed immediately by pruning. Cut back about 12 inches below the lesion to remove them and disinfect the pruning tool after each cut.

Wintering Hibiscus Trees

I planted two hibiscus trees, Roses of sharon. What steps do I need to take in the winter to prevent damage or death?

Rose of Sharon Hibiscus syriacus

The Rose Of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), also known as Althea (Althea frutex), belongs to the Mallow family (Malvaceae). These deciduous (leaf-losing) shrubs or small trees, erect in form, attain heights from 4 to 15 feet. The leaves are smooth, deep green and coarsely toothed with three irregular lobes. The large bell-shaped, single or double flowers (up to 3 inches) are pink, red, lilac, white, violet or purple in color. The flowers appear from summer till frost. The shrub or tree prefers well drained soil, an open sunny spot and plenty of moisture, especially prior to and when in bloom.

The plant may be planted in early fall or spring. The bush does not require a whole lot of pruning, but should be kept more or less open by thinning out crowded shoots in the spring.

Young trees need protection in winter in zone 5, but once the wood or tree matures they are reliably hardy. In colder climates where frost injury occurs, the shrub is generally cut back to 2 or 3 buds per stem each spring, as the plant produces flowers on the current year's growth. This method also produces much larger flowers as the shrub, otherwise left unpruned, produces many small blooms.

Winter protection includes giving the shrub a good watering before the ground freezes and mulching the soil around the plant with a 6 inch layer of straw or other material. The branches can be tied carefully together and then wrapped with burlap to give it protection from the cold winter winds. The burlap should be removed if a warm trend occurs. In extremely cold weather, a wire cage should be placed around the bush and filled with a dry material such as clean straw and then wrapped with burlap. In colder climates, the Rose of Sharon is often planted near house foundations where the soil is warmed by heat escaping from the basement foundation.

This shrub or tree is one of the very last to leaf out in the spring, so give it time to do so before worrying about whether it is dead or alive.

Fall Leaf Color

Why do leaves turn color in the fall?

Autumn Trees

The leaves turn color in fall because of the combination of shorter days (photoperiod) and cooler temperatures which triggers growth inhibitor hormones (eythylene and abscisic acid) which become more concentrated or powerful than the growth promoter hormones (auxins, cytokinins and gibberellins). Growth promoter hormones become more concentrated or powerful in the spring when the days get longer and the temperature warmer. Once the growth inhibitors reach higher levels than the growth promoters ( at this time of the year), chlorophyll, the green pigment in the leaves used for photosynthesis in which plant food is manufactured, is lost, and other pigments in the leaf become more obvious. CAROTENOIDES are yellow and orange pigments and are easily seen in the leaf colors of trees such as poplars, birch, larch, and green ash, for examples. ANTHOCYANIN is a red pigment and is observed in the leaf color of trees and shrubs like some maples, dogwoods, cotoneaster, mountain ash and pincherries, for examples.

The abscisic acid will continue to increase as the days grow shorter and the temperatures cooler, until the cells in the abscission layer ( the little bump or swelling at the end of the leaf petiole) soften, and the leaf falls. This is why the leaves DO turn color.

Boston Fern Runners

My Boston fern is very healthy with lots of new growth. However it has several long shoots with no leaves on them. These are fuzzy and have recently developed. What are they? Should them be removed? Thank you.

Boston Fern - Nephrolepis exaltata

The long fuzzy shoots you are referring to are runners or stolons, much like those of a strawberry plant. These can be removed by cutting them off just above the soil line, or they can be used to propagate new baby ferns by pinning them down to a pot of moist soil in early spring. The runners should be left attached to the parent plant until the young plants have taken root. Once well rooted, the runner(s) can then be cut off. Another way to increase plants is to set the pot on the ground on good soil outside in the shade in summer and just let these runners start new plants where ever they want to. The little plants can then be dug up and potted.

Buds Falling off of Gardenia

Why do the flower buds on my indoor gardenia plant get brown and fall off just before they bloom?

Gardenia jasminoides

Insufficient watering or very dry air will cause bud rot which causes the buds to drop before flowering. Be sure to keep the soil moist, and increase humidity levels around your gardenia by placing the pot on a pebble tray with water (be sure the pot is not sitting in the water), and then place a large plastic bag over the gardenia (do not let the bag touch either the leaves or flower buds). This should keep humidity levels high enough around the leaves to prevent bud drop. Also, keep temperatures even in the room - 60 to 65 degrees F. at night and about 10 degrees higher during the day. Do not expose the plant to any type of drafts.

Trim and Transplant Gardenia

I live in Northwest Florida and I have many gardenia plants growing in my yard. I would like to trim some of the shrubs. I would also like to transplant some the gardenias to other flower beds. When can I trim and transplant the gardenias?

Gardenia jasminoides

Gardenias can be pruned or trimmed at anytime of the year in as far as thinning goes to reshape the shrub. To rejuvenate an older shrub, it can be cut back to about 8 inches from the ground in early spring. As for transplanting, either early to mid-fall once the plant is dormant, or early spring before growth starts are both ok. The choice is yours.

Bird of Paradise

I have a Bird of Paradise that is 8 feet tall. It is in a small plastic container, and has never bloomed. I was wondering what kind of soil to use and what to feed it to keep it healthy and to get it flowering for me.

Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

The most common reason a flowering plant fails to bloom is a lack of light. The Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae) must have full sunshine when it is growing as an indoor houseplant, or very light shade during the hottest part of the day if it is placed out of doors in the summer months. The trunkless kinds such as Strelitzia reginae or S. parvifolia normally only grow from 3 to 5 feet high, with S. reginae humilis, a rare dwarf type averaging only 18 inches in height. If your Bird of Paradise plant is one of these, the 8 foot height would indeed indicate insufficient light as the plant is reaching or stretching for light. If the plant is a variety such as S. augusta or S. nicolai, those which have a distinct trunk and acquire much taller heights (up to 18 feet), then its container would be much to small for this type of plant to grow properly, let alone flower. In addition, if this particular plant has been started from seed, it is not uncommon for the Bird of Paradise plant to grow for 10 or more years before it will bloom.

Most plants started from division take from 4 to 6 years to bloom, others longer, so patience is necessary. In most cases the plant must have at least 7 to 10 leaves before it will bloom. By the time the plant is 5 or 6 years old, it should be growing in a large flower pot, or at least one that is no less than 10 inches in diameter. Repotting should be done in early spring, only if the plants roots have filled the old pot. Repotting to soon can delay flowering by as much as two years.

These tender perennial plants belonging to the Banana family, Musaceae, are natives of southern Africa.

They can only be grown out of doors the year around where there is no risk of frost. The large spear-shaped leaves which grow on long leafstalks (petioles) average 3 inches wide and 12 to 15 inches long. The brilliant and remarkably bird like flowers emerge from a large bract which grow on stems above the foliage. The plant can bloom at any time of the year, although spring and summer is most common.

A loam-based soil that drains freely is the best media. A good mixture consists of two thirds loam soil, with one third being either a mixture of peat moss and leaf mould, or peat moss and well rotted cow manure. Coarse sand or perlite should be added to these ingredients to promote good drainage of the media.

The plant prefers normal daytime temperatures around 68 to 72 degrees F., but should have cooler night temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees F. to initiate flowering. During the dormant or resting period in autumn and winter, try to maintain temperatures near 50 to 55 degrees F.

Water freely in summer, just letting the soils surface approach dryness as the soil must be moist during the growing season. In the winter months while the plant is dormant, water more sparingly, letting an inch or two of the soils surface dry before watering again. Misting the leaves occasionally in the spring and summer is beneficial to the plant. Good air circulation or ventilation, especially in the summer is important.

Fertilize the plant only in the growing season (spring and summer) using a water soluble fertilizer that is higher in phosphorous, such as 10-20-10 for example, once a month. Drench the soil when fertilizing using rates recommended by the manufacturer.

To propagate new plants, detach the offsets or side shoots in early spring, or divide overcrowded clumps carefully and repot. Plants started from seed will take several years to bloom.

Strelitzia reginae has brilliant orange and purple flowers. S. parvifolia has purple and yellow flowers. S. augusta produces white flowers, S. kewensis has pale yellow flowers with lilac-pink markings and S. nicolai bears white flowers with blue inner segments.

Grape Ivy Cuttings

I have been given a out of control Rhoicissus rhomboidea to take a cutting and to reduce the size of the parent plant. Please can you help?

Grape Ivy (Cissus rhombifolia)

The Grape Ivy Rhoicissus rhomboidea, correctly Cissus rhombifolia, is a creeping vine with each leaf made up of three leaflets, first appearing silvery and then turning to a dark, glossy green at maturity. The new fuzzy buds are a brownish color. The name rhomboidea is derived from the rhomboid shape of each leaflet. The Grape Ivy belongs to the Grape family Vitaceae. The Latin word Cissus is derived from the Greek name for Ivy - Kissos. Needless to say, these vines climb by means of tendrils and should be given some type of support to cling to.

These are easy plants to grow and require yearly pruning to keep them neat and bushy. The Grape Ivy needs a brightly lit spot, but fierce sunshine should be avoided. In summer provide day temperatures of around 75 degrees F, nights around 60 degrees F., and 50 - 55 degrees F. in winter to encourage the plant to rest.

Keep the soil moist during active growth in spring and summer by watering liberally, and only slightly moist in the winter. Misting the leaves occasionally is beneficial to the plant.

A good potting media consists of equal parts of loam and peat moss with perlite or coarse sand added, or any commercial potting medium is fine. The plants should be fertilized every 4 months with any houseplant fertilizer. Repotting is perhaps best done in spring or summer, although the plant can be repotted at any time of the year.

New plants are easily propagated from stem cuttings which can be taken at any time of the year. Simply remove a long vine from the plant by cutting it off directly above a node (where the leaves emerge). To make a cutting, cut directly under a node with a sharp knife, and then cut directly above the next node. Remove the leaves on the bottom node and insert the cutting about 1 inch deep in a peat/sand mix or any commercial rooting medium. Several cuttings can be made from the one vine. Water the cuttings well, let the pot drain and then place it in a plastic bag to keep the cuttings close. Place the pot in a warm spot , but not in direct sunshine. Roots should develop in approximately 1 month. After the cuttings are well-rooted, transplant them carefully, 2 to 3 cuttings per pot in good soil.

To keep the plants short and bushy, pinch back the vines or stems to a node, especially when they are young in spring or summer. To rejuvenate a very tall lanky plant, cut some of the vines back in March to about 6 inches from the soils surface or main stem. Cut back the other vines once new growth is flourishing on the shortened vines. Continue pinching the new shoots (simply pinch off the tiny brand new leaves at the tip of the vine) after a few nodes have developed on the vines to keep the plant bushy.

Gloriosa Blooming Period

I was wondering how often the gloriosa blooms. I have been told that it is as few as every ten years?

Glory Lily (Gloriosa)

The Gloriosa (Glory lily or Climbing lily) should bloom every year if given proper growing conditions and a period of dormancy - usually from October to January. The resting period is the most critical step in triggering the plant to bloom. Although there are several species, the two most common or popular are Gloriosa rothschildiana and G. superba. The former has flowers with yellow at the base of the petals and red or crimson at the top. The latter has petals that are yellow at the base with the tips turning from orange to red or scarlet. The waxy-edged petals bend backwards revealing the long extruding stamens. These lily like flowers are produced during the summer months.

These are tender climbing plants which belong to the lily family (Liliaceae) They originate in Asia and Africa. The Latin name Gloriosa refers to the flowers and means 'glorious'. Averaging from 4 to 6 feet in height, these slender stems with sessile (do not have petioles or leafstalks) leaves must have some type of support for the tendrils at the ends of the leaves to cling to. As the vines grow, they can be tied loosely to lattice work, wire, string, trellis or canes.

Gloriosa can only be grown out of doors and left in the garden in very warm climates. It is very sensitive to frost. Otherwise, in colder climatic regions, they must be grown as a houseplant, in the greenhouse, or started indoors in early spring and set out in the garden in June after danger of frost has past.

In warm tropical regions, plant the tubers 4 - 6 inches deep in a moist, rich soil that has had liberal amounts of organic matter such as compost, leaf mould, peat moss or well-rotted manure and coarse sand added to it. They may be grown in full sun or light shade.

In colder regions, the tubers should be started indoors in early spring and transplanted to the garden in June, or they can be grown in the greenhouse. Start the tubers growing in a well-drained, porous media consisting of equal parts of loam, organic matter such as well-rotted manure, peat moss, leaf mould or compost, and coarse sand or vermiculite. Pre-packaged soil may also be used. The addition of ground limestone at the rate of 4 to 5 ounces per bushel of this mix will help induce flowering. Plant the tubers upright approximately 1 inch deep, one plant per six inch pot. Water sparingly until the shoots appear, thereafter, water freely keeping the media moist. Do not let the temperature drop below 60 degrees F. Provide bright light during this period. Once the weather is warm and settled out of doors, transplant into the garden or grow as a container plant. Place the plant in full sunlight, feed every 3 weeks with a diluted liquid fertilizer such as 5-10-5 and keep the soil moist. Once the flowers have faded, reduce watering until the leaves die back and the plant goes into dormancy (usually October). The tubers must be dug and lifted before heavy frost and stored in a dry place in dry vermiculite, peatmoss or perlite. Container grown plants must be allowed to dry in the same way, brought in, and the pot laid on its side and stored in a dry place. In February the tubers can again be started in pots, one size larger and the soil replaced with new soil. The container grown plants are removed from the pots and repotted in a one size larger pot with new soil, also. The tubers should be handled carefully as they are quite brittle.

When grown as a houseplant, the Gloriosa is treated in much the same manner. It needs bright light, 75 degree F. daytime temperatures, night time temperatures of no lower than 65 degrees F., the same rich, moist media while growing, occasional misting of the leaves, and feeding every 3 to 4 weeks with a liquid fertilizer such as 5-10-5. Again, cut back on the watering once flowering is over until the foliage dies and the plant goes dormant (October). Lay the pot on its side and keep it dry until February, when it can be repotted into new soil and started into active growth once again.

New plants can be propagated by carefully dividing the old tubers in spring or separating the new ones that have developed along the old tuber. New plants can also be started from seed, but the new plants will not bloom for at least 2 to 3 years.

Fruit Prune a Meyer's Lemon

Re: "Improved Meyer's Lemon" getting off to a good start.

I just repotted my Meyer's Lemon into a 20" pot. It has 4 small to medium fruit already! Should the first year fruit be removed at outset to improve the vigor of young plant and subsequent years of fruit-bearing or should new fruit be left on to maturity? Thanks!

Improved Meyer's Lemon Tree

I personally would not remove the fruits from the 'Improved Meyer's Lemon' tree, unless a considerable amount of roots have been removed from the rootball during the transplanting operation. Otherwise, four small fruits will not harm a dwarf tree growing in a 20 inch pot. The fruit must be left on the tree to ripen. When ripe, the bright yellow lemons are excellent for cooking.

Crape Myrtle with More Blooms

Is there a way to get my crape myrtle trees to have more blooms? They are sparse compared to others, yet leaves are plentiful and healthy. Thanks.

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

Crape Myrtle, or Indian Lilac (Lagerstroemia indica) is a beautiful, brilliant flowering shrub or small tree which produces axillary or terminal clusters of pink, red, white, lavender or purple-red flowers. The individual crinkly flowers, approximately l1/2 inches across, appear to be made of crepe paper. The 1 to 2 inch long oval leaves are attractive both in the spring when their unfolding leaves are bronze-colored, and again in the fall when they ripen to brilliant reds, yellows and oranges. Beautiful mottled bark adds even more beauty in the winter months. These shrubs or small tress belong to the Lythraceae family.

The amount of flowers produced by the plant can depend on several factors. Firstly, newly planted shrubs or trees may take several years to become established before an abundance of flowers can be expected.

Secondly, the location of the trees may be a factor. Most flowering plants, including the Crape myrtle, must have full sun to be at their best. This plant needs a hot, sunny position to ripen its wood, or it will not bloom well. Any overshadowing of larger trees or a building, for example, will hinder flower production. In addition, if large trees are located to close to the shrubs or smaller trees, the larger trees roots will rob moisture and nutrients from the smaller plants. Overcrowding of the trees themselves will cause smaller and fewer flowers.

The Crape Myrtle must have a constant supply of moisture. If the plants are growing on the south side of a building, for example, and not receiving adequate moisture, they will use the available moisture to sustain life (use that moisture for leaf growth and photosynthesis) and abort flower bud production. A layer of organic material spread over the soil will help retain moisture.

This tree or shrub will not tolerate hard-packed, poorly drained soil. Liberal amounts of compost, leaf mould or peat moss should be added and thoroughly worked into the top 12 inches of soil before being planted. Adding bonemeal or fertilizer with a higher phosphorous percentage such as 11-48-0 to the soil will promote healthy roots and heavy flower production. This same type of fertilizer should be applied to the soil around the bushes each spring (using rates recommended by the manufacturer), scratched into the soils surface and thoroughly watered in.

Because Crape Myrtle flowers on the current season's wood, it should be pruned heavily in the dormant season (early spring) to stimulate new wood which produces the flowers. Cut back 12 - 18 inches of wood on large, older branches to promote new growth, and remove all weak, twiggy growth which will not produce flowers. Much larger flowers can be generated on shrubs by cutting them completely back to the ground each spring, and then removing all but the strongest stems. Dead, diseased wood and suckers should and can be removed at anytime of the year.

Start Big Vine Plants from Seed

Can you advise me on how to start Pandorea jasminoides or Big Vine plants from the seed pods?

Bower Plant (Pandorea jasminoides)

The first step is to collect the seed pods from the Pandorea jasminoides (Bower Plant) plant once they start ripening on the vine. If the pods are picked too early, the seeds may not be mature or viable (able to germinate when sown). With most plants that produce pods, the pods are ready to pick once they start turning from green to yellow or light brown. If they are left on the plant too long, they may over ripen and explode, sending their seeds in all directions.

Once the pods have been collected, spread them out in a warm room in a paper bag to fully ripen. The wings of the pods of Pandorea jasminoides may be carefully rubbed off and separated from the seed for ease of handling of the seed. When the seeds have been separated, place them in a plastic pill bottle, label them and store them in a cool, dark, dry place.

Another method of collecting seeds is to carefully tie a plastic bag over the seedpods and collect them once they ripen and fall into the bag naturally on their own, or when they fall into the bag when the bag is tapped several times.

When spring arrives, sow the seeds in sandy soil in well-drained pots, or directly in the garden. Keep the soil moist while germination is occurring and thereafter.

Pandorea's are also easily propagated from cuttings of new growth taken in early summer and inserting them in moist vermiculite, or a peatmoss and sand mixture.

Ponytail Plant Shoots

I have a ponytail plant about 30 years old, 6 1/2 feet tall. It just started sprouting new ponytail shoots just under the main tail on the stem. Do I just leave them or do I have to remove them?

Ponytail plant (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Lucky you! Your Ponytail Plant is actually becoming a tree, as it would grow naturally in the wild. It is not necessary to remove the new shoots. They may be removed if the plant is going to outgrow its allowable space, or, if you wish to try and root these shoots to propagate new plants. Otherwise, carry on looking after it as before and consider yourself a good gardener.

Snake Plant Poisonous?

Are the leaves of a Mother-in-law plant poisonous? A friend has the plant in her classroom of young children, and is nervous if a child tries to taste the plant. Thank you for your reply.

Mother-in-law's Tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata)

The Mother-in-law's-Tongue (Sanseveria trifasciata, S laurentii, S. hahnii and others) are not considered deadly poisonous plants, but rather mildly toxic. With this type of plant, some people can have allergic reactions if the plant is put into the mouth or ingested. People with compromised immune systems or young children can be at risk if a portion of the plant is ingested. Symptoms include discomfort, cramps and nausea. A small amount of anything that a person is allergic to can be serious. I would personally feel better if the plant were removed from my classroom where young children are concerned.

Telephone numbers of your Poison Control Center; Ambulance; Police and Fire Departments should all be listed in BOLD numbers close to all phones in case of an emergency. Where plants are concerned, the specific or Botanical name should be clearly labeled and attached to the plant or pot for proper identification in case of accidental ingestion of plant material by a child or anyone.

Transplant Siberian Iris

When can the Siberian Iris be divided and transplanted?

Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica)

The best time to divide and transplant a Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica) is from late August to September in milder regions. In colder climatic regions, spring planting is recommended, although they may also be planted from August to September if given a heavy protective layer of mulch just prior to the ground freezing. The crown of the plant should be covered with 11/2 to 2 inches of soil when planting. As a rule, Siberian Iris clumps need only be transplanted every 5 - 10 years, or when the flowers appear small or few in number.

Cut Back a Butterfly Bush

I have 6 Butterfly bushes. They are done blooming and I am wondering when I can cut them back?

Butterfly Bush 'Argentea' (Buddleia alternifolia)

The correct time to cut back the Butterfly Bush depends on the species. Buddleia alternifolia (fountain butterfly bush) blooms in late spring or early summer from buds that have formed on the previous years growth, not on the new growth. For this reason it should be cut back to about two thirds of its original height as soon as the blossoms have faded. This will promote long, new flowering stems for the following year.

Buddleia davidii and cultivars such as 'Flaming Violet' and 'Purple Prince' for examples, bloom on the current years growth and for this reason should be cut back to a few buds from the ground in the dormant season (early spring) prior to the start of new growth. If a large number of shoots develop, some should be removed by pinching them off while they are young and small in size. This will encourage much larger blossoms on the remaining stems. In colder regions, the stems will freeze back to the ground or snowline naturally. The dead stems should then be removed in the spring before new growth starts.

All Buddleia spp. are cut back as above, depending on whether they bloom on the previous years wood, or on the current seasons new wood.

Peace Lily Name Origin

Can you tell me how the peace lily got its common name?

Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum spp.)

The common name, Peace Lily, is from the universally acknowledged white flag of truce during battles. The cream or yellow colored spadix of each flower that is enclosed by the white spathe represents the pole or stick, whereas, the white spathe represents the flag. Other than knowing this, I do not know the actual story, events or people(s) involved in naming the flower. Another common name given to this plant is 'White Sails', the spathe in this case representing the sails of a ship.

Brian

The original questioner sent Brian an email several days later...

Hi,

Nice to hear from you and thanks for the response.

I was searching for some information because a friend of mine had given a peace lily to me as an 'office warming' present and I had to go away for 3 weeks and it nearly died.

When I left the office last Monday night, I had just about given up hope. On Tuesday morning in Sydney, I awoke to the terrible news in the USA. When I came into the office that day, my peace lily had revived and four leaves had fallen to the floor.

I am not a mystical person, but the coincidence that my 'dead' peace lily had revived so amazingly touched me very deeply, and I wanted some info so I could write to my colleagues and friends in the USA.

Many of my friends at work here were also amazed and every day now I have a number of people come in and water it - it is our way of sending peace and love to all who lost loved ones.

We have been so moved by the blossoming of a plant so connected to peace that we have been in touch with local horticulturalists and are organsing a fundraiser selling the plants, so that we can do something to help out.

I thought you might like to know this story, and I also wanted to thank you for your information.

Best wishes.

Nurseries with Canada Plum

Do you know of any Canadian nurseries that have prunus nigra (Canada Plum)? I'm trying to locate one to plant as soon as possible.

Canada Plum (Prunus nigra)

The Canada Plum (Prunus nigra) is available at the following address:
'Zosel Tree Farm'
Box179
Pleasantdale, Saskatchewan
S0K 3H0
Phone: 1-306-874-5729

The American native plum (Prunus americana) is also available at the tree farm. Two selected seedlings of Prunus nigra which produce 1-11/2 inch in diameter fruit include 'Bounty' and 'Dandy'.

Shaping a Redbud Tree

I have a 10 foot redbud tree in from of my porch. I would like to shape it up. When is a good time to prune it?

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

The best time to prune the Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), Texas redbud (Cercis texensis, or also called C. reniformis) or the California redbud (C. occidentalis) (all the above species also known as Judas Tree) is during the dormant season (late winter or early spring before growth starts), or, immediately after the tree has completed blooming. After flowering is the best time, as this allows the tree to form its new flower buds during the summer for the following springs flush of purplish pink blossoms. Some flower buds will be removed if the tree is pruned during the dormant season, although this time of the year enables a person to see the trees structure much easier. As a rule, Redbuds rarely require pruning.

It is best not to prune this tree, with the exception of removing deadwood, unless it is absolutely necessary. The tree is very susceptible to disease, so, the more wounds one makes with pruning cuts, the greater the risk of endangering the tree. If the tree has been shaped properly when it was young, only a small amount of pruning should be required to maintain its canopy during the mature stage of the tree.

Transplant a Butterfly Bush

When is the best time to transplant or move a butterfly bush? Fall or Spring?

Buddleia 'Lochinich' (Buddlei)

In the colder parts of the country, Buddleia spp. should be transplanted in the spring before new growth starts. This will enable the plant to become well established before the onset of winter. In milder climates, spring or fall is fine. However, if it is a must to move the shrub in the fall for any reason in colder climates, transplant it as soon as the shrub goes dormant (when the leaves fall or dry up). Although the top portion of the plant is dormant, the roots will continue to grow until the ground freezes. A plant can become very well rooted in a year with a mild fall, which results in a quick take off in the spring. Be sure to mix some bonemeal in the soil prior to planting the shrub. The phosphorous promotes good, healthy root development. Keep the soil moist as well by soaking it at least once a week if there is no rainfall.

Trimming a Ponytail Plant

I have a ponytail plant that has more than overgrown. It is approximately 10 feet tall and has been in the same pot for 10 years or so. We leave it outside in shade in the summer and in the greenhouse in winter. Is there any way one can trim it: basically, shorten it? It's getting pretty huge. I can't imagine where there are seeds on it. Where do I look for them? Also, how do ponytail palms reproduce? Thanks for your help.

Ponytail plant (Beaucarnea recurvata)

The Ponytail plant (Beaucarnea recurvata), which originates in Southeast Mexico, becomes a tree of 20 to 30 feet in height in its natural habitat. It is very rare for one of these plants to reach the 10 foot size you describe, while being grown as a potted plant. A job well done. However, as they require a lot of room at this size, it is common for most folks to give or sale the plant to a Botanical garden or the like. The only way to shorten the plant (I always feel this disfigures a plant), is to cut if off at a height you are comfortable with (this is best done in the spring) and then hope side shoots emerge somewhere below the cut from dormant or latent buds to carry on growth.

Occasionally after the plant is cut back, and sometimes occurring naturally, the ponytail plant will produce offsets near the base of the plant. These offsets may be carefully separated and used to propagate new plants. This, however, is not a very easy procedure.

Ponytail plants can also be started from cuttings by taking young shoots from the plant in spring. The bottom 2 inches of leaves are stripped off the base of the cuttings, dipped in a fungicidal rooting hormone, and then inserted in sand or a sandy type of soil. The length of the cutting is not of utmost importance as they root fairly easy, but if they are too tall, there will be a problem in the cutting standing up. A length of 6 - 10 inches makes a nice plant. After the cutting has been inserted in the sand, placing it in a propagating case (a large plastic bag works well) and providing bottom heat (setting it about 12 inches above a heat register) will help generate quick root development. Once the cutting(s) are well rooted, they may be carefully lifted and potted up in a well drained potting media.

Before you can find seeds on the plant, the plant must flower, which rarely happens with pot grown plants. The small, inconspicuous white or beige flowers are produced on a tall spike or panicle. In addition, the flowers are either male or female, so, if you only have one plant, the chances of getting seed are indeed very remote.

To start your own plants from seed, seed can be obtained from a seed supplier whose specializes in novelty seeds. It takes several years before the plant will be of any size, so all in all, it is probably best for one to simply purchase a new, small Ponytail plant from a garden center or floral shop.