Dipladenia

Do you have any tips on planting a dipladenia and does it return year after year? Thank you.

The Dipladenia is a tender evergreen vine which belongs to the Periwinkle family. The smooth leaves, oval in shape, grow on twining vines. Throughout the summer months, the plant bears clusters of white, rose, crimson, pink or purple trumpet-shaped flowers, depending on the species. Dipladenia sanderi rosea bears salmon-pink flowers and blooms continuously through the year.

In climates that are very mild (southern California), the plant can be grown outside and is usually trained to grow on a trellis. In colder climates, the vine is grown in the greenhouse or treated as a houseplant.

As a houseplant, Dipladenia grows well with night time temperatures near 60 - 65 degrees F. and daytime temperatures near 70 degrees F. The plant must have bright, indirect light, never any direct sun. It grows well in a curtain-filtered south window. Misting the plant regularly is important, especially while it is in bud and flowering.

It is best to repot the plant each spring in a media consisting of to 2 parts peat moss, 1 part packaged potting mix or loam, and 1 part sharp sand or perlite to aid in drainage. A small amount of crushed charcoal added to the media is beneficial.

During the growing season in spring and summer, keep the soil evenly moist. Allow the soil to just dry before watering during the dormant season (fall and winter). Fertilize every 2 weeks (if necessary) during the growing season with a fertilizer that is higher in phosphorous such as 10-20-10.

If the plant is to be grown outside in colder regions, it is treated as an annual. Grow in partial shade in a rich, well-drained sandy soil. Organic matter like well-rotted manure, compost or peat moss should be added to the soil, as well as some bonemeal prior to planting.

Once the plant has completed blooming, remove the spent flowers. The plant can be kept bushy by pinching out the growing tips occasionally or, by shortening the side branches by cutting back to two buds at the base of the past summers growth in February.

To propagate new plants, take young shoots in March, dip them in rooting hormone and insert them in a pot of moist sand and peat moss. Provide bottom heat and keep the shoots close (humid) by placing the pot in a clear plastic bag. Once they are well rooted they can be potted up individually in 3 inch pots and then moved to larger pots when required.

Dipladenia sanderi rosea has yellow-throated pink flowers; D. splendens has pink flowers; D. amabilis - purplish-crimson flowers; D. boliviensis - white flowers and D. brearlyeana has pink flowers that turn to crimson.

Bare Branches on Evergreen

When we moved into our new house there was an extremely overgrown evergreen hedge. I think it's a Yew. It had become so wide, it covered our sidewalk. Last fall I cut it back about 12 inches on the side and on the top. Now it is mostly bare branches. Where any green had been left I am now seeing new growth, but not on the bare branches. What can I do to promote healthy growth and greenness again?

Yew (Taxus baccata)

The first step is to properly identify your evergreen (conifer). If it is not a yew (Taxus spp.) then there is probably little hope of the hedge filling in again. Most conifers will only tolerate pruning or shearing of the new growth, or in the case of pines, cutting back the new shoots (candles) in the late spring while they are soft. If conifers require pruning to control their size, branches to be removed must be chosen carefully so there is always healthy green shoots or growth in front of the one being removed. The branches to be removed should be cut back to another branch by cutting them flush with the remaining branch (usually a larger branch). The tree or shrub will continue growing from the green shoots. If all the branches are cut back to old wood, conifers will not put out new shoots and those branches will die back to the trunk. Planting a new hedge would be the only option, unless there are enough green shoots left at the perimeter of the hedge to eventually cover the bear areas.

If, however, the hedge is a Yew, patience is the only thing required. Yews are the exception to the conifer trees in that they will send out new shoots from dormant buds on old wood. Over a period of 3 - 4 years, new shoots should emerge and eventually fill in all the bear spots. Yews can be rejuvenated by cutting them back to 6 - 12 inches from the ground.

Crimson Red Tree

We have a Crimson Red tree in our front yard. When does this tree begin to bud? Ours hasn't yet and we're wondering if it may be dead. It was planted two years ago being a 150mm cal.

I am not sure when a Crimson Red tree will bud (leaf out) in your area, but you should be able to determine if it is dead by gently bending the branch tips (4 - 6 inches) back. If the wood is dead, it will probably be dry and will snap under moderate pressure. Green wood will bend a considerable amount without snapping or breaking.

If it has been a colder than normal spring in your area, trees will naturally be later in leafing out. If possible, try to locate and observe another Crimson Red tree in your neighborhood. If they are well budded out in comparison to your tree, then perhaps it is dead. Small microclimates can influence when a plant will start to grow. Plants in shady, colder areas will bud out later than those in sunny areas, for example.

Prune off a branch that is approximately ¼ inch thick in diameter at an outfacing bud (if possible). If the inside layer of bark is green, the tree should still be alive. If the inside layer is black or dark brown, the branch is dead. You can keep cutting it back until you find green wood (if there is any), as the dead wood should be removed in any case.

Phlox as Ground Cover

We'd like to cover our 25' by 65' hillside with creeping phlox. Due to the cost of trying to do the whole project at once, can we space plants three feet apart and fill in with wild flowers this year until we use existing stem (cutting) for more plants next year? How long do you have to wait to use cut stems for new plants? Which Phlox would you recommend for full sun? When should we plant? Thanks Brian!!!

Creeping Phlox Phlox stolonifera

The perennial spring-blooming phloxes (dwarf phlox) are generally used as ground-cover plants. Perennial summer-flowering phlox are much taller and often require staking to prevent them from falling or blowing over. The dwarf phlox will tolerate poor soil and some drought, making them a much better choice for a sunny hillside.

Phlox should be planted in early spring or early fall. The usual spacing is 2 to 3 feet between plants. As for inter-planting with wildflowers, the choice is yours, but personally, I would not interplant. It would be much easier for maintenance such as weeding without the inter-planting,, and also allow the plants room to become established.

As for taking cuttings, it is probably best to wait until the following year. By this time the plants will have become fairly well established. Softwood cuttings are taken in late spring or early summer after the plants have flowered, and rooted in moist sand in a coldframe, out of direct sunlight. They can also be rooted in moist vermiculite in pots in the home. Placing the pot in a clear plastic bag helps to keep the media moist and close (humid) which hastens rooting. The soft tips (do not use flowering tips) of the current years growth should be from 1 to 3 inches long. They can be dipped in a rooting hormone to help promote rooting.

Semi-ripe cuttings can also be rooted. These are taken at a later date when the stems have just started hardening, but are not yet woody. These cuttings are generally 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches long. The bottom ½ inch of leaves must be stripped off the cutting before they are dipped in rooting hormone and inserted in a moist media.

Once the cuttings are well rooted (as indicated by new growth, or roots appearing at the drainage holes), they can be transplanted into individual pots, or 'hardened off' and set in rows in the garden to grow on. In early autumn or the following spring, they can be transplanted to their permanent location.

Phlox subulata (Moss Pink) has evergreen foliage made up of ¼ to ½ inch long, sharp, scalelike leaves. The plant averages 4 - 6 inches tall and spreads to a diameter of 2 or more feet. In spring, the ½ to 1 inch flowers can completely hide the foliage. The plants thrive in a loamy soil in open, well-drained, sunny sites. A few of the many cultivars include: 'Scarlet Flame' - brilliant scarlet ruby flowers, almost pure red; 'Bonita' - lavender flowers with violet centers; 'Alexander's Beauty' - pink flowers; 'Blue Hills' - violet blue flowers; 'Brilliant' - magenta flowers; 'Fairy' - pale mauve compact flowers; 'Starglow' - rosy crimson flowers; 'The Bride' - pure white flowers, and 'Eventide' - pale blue flowers.

Phlox douglasii also prefers an open, sunny, well-drained site. It grows best on lighter soils. The lavender-blue, almond scented blossoms cover the neat, compact mat forming plants in May and June. Each plant spreads a foot or more.

Phlox bifida (Sand Phlox) averages 6 - 9 inches in height and spreads quickly to a foot or more in diameter. This phlox also is of the mat-forming type. The leaves are long and narrow. The flowers are pale blue-white, star-shaped and appear in May and June. This phlox prefers a sunny location and light, well-drained soil.

There are many more species of phlox, but many of the others prefer a somewhat shaded location and fairly moist conditions.

Raised Vegetable Garden

I am building a raised vegetable garden. I will be filling it with a new soil mix yet to be determined and wondered what your recommendation for the new soil mix would be. Thanks for your help.

A raised vegetable garden should contain the same type of soil as a standard vegetable garden. The purpose of a raised bed is to increase the depth of soil on poorly drained, hardpan (hard clay) type soils, and also to prevent compaction of the soil. Zero compaction of the soil is the number one objective with this type of gardening. For this reason, the beds should be constructed so the center of the beds can be reached from both sides without having to step or walk on them.

The best mix consists of 2 parts of any good loam soil, 1 part humus (organic matter), and 1 part coarse sand to aid in drainage. Well-rotted manure or compost are the best type of organic matter as they supply nutrients for vegetables and flowers. Sphagnum peat moss is used if the other two are not available. Sphagnum peat moss is low in nutrients and can alter the soils pH (makes it more acidic) if too much is used. A bed with a lower pH is ideal for acid loving plants like blueberries or Azaleas.

Bone meal and blood meal should be added to the beds (using amounts specified on the containers) to supply added nutrients, and then thoroughly worked into the soil. Bonemeal is a great source of phosphorous which promotes healthy, vigorous roots as well as large flowers and fruits. Because phosphorous moves so slowly in the soil, it is best to work it into the soil prior to planting so it is readily available for the plants. Blood meal is a great source of nitrogen, especially important for leafy vegetables like lettuce or cabbage. During the growing season, water soluble fish fertilizer can be applied to the beds when required.

Chemical fertilizers can also be used to supply the necessary nutrients. Any type recommended for vegetables can be used and should also be applied prior to planting the garden, following the rates recommended by the manufactures. There is no way, however, that these fertilizers can replace the importance of the organic matter in the soil. Vegetables and flowers flourish in a rich, humus-laden, porous soil. The organic matter reduces compaction, increases water holding capacity of the soil, and prevents leaching of nutrients like nitrogen and potassium. An organic soil rich in organic matter contains the billions of micro-organisms needed to convert the nutrients into forms available for plants.

Kotlas Tomatoes

Can you give us a source of seeds for Kotlas tomatoes? We have been growing them for several years using our own seeds, but this year's seedlings are very poor. Many thanks.

Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum)

Yes, 'Early's Established 1907' offers Kotlas tomato seed. They can be reached at the following address:

EARLY'S Established 1907
2615 Lorne Ave.
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
S7J 0S5

Phone: 1-306-931-1982 Toll Free: 1-800-667-1159

Fax: 1-306-931-7110

Email: earlys@sasktel.net

Website: www.earlysgarden.com

Catnip

I have a question about catnip plants, both as inside and outside plants. Do you know about the catnip plant?

This plant goes by many names. It is called Catnip, Catnep, Catrup, Field Balm, Catswart and Catmint. The correct botanical name is Nepeta. Even more confusing is the fact that there are several species referred to as Catnip. These include Nepeta cataria, N. faassenii, and N. racemosa. All belong to the mint family Labiatae. All are non-toxic to humans or animals, but should be used in small proportions to begin with.

Nepeta cataria is a hardy perennial that reaches heights of 3 feet and spreads to about 2 feet wide. From early summer to early autumn the plant bears white to pale pink flowers. The plant has very pungent aromatic leaves. This species is often considered the true herb.

Nepeta faassenii is often referred to as the Mauve Catmint. This hardy herbaceous perennial grows and spreads to about 18 inches tall and wide. The plant consists of slender stems covered with greyish-green aromatic leaves which form bushy clumps. The flowers are produced on loose spikes in colors of lavender-blue or pale mauve. It blooms mainly in June, but carries through to early summer and early autumn. This is the most commonly grown catnip.

Nepeta racemosa is also a hardy perennial which reaches a height and spread of about 20 inches. The small, grayish leaves are mildly fragrant. The lavender-blue to purple flowers are produced on spikes from late spring to autumn.

The plants are easily started from seed sown directly in the garden or started earlier in pots. Covering them with about 1/8 inch of vermiculite or perlite helps with the germination process which takes from 10 to 20 days. The plants can also be propagated from softwood cuttings taken in late spring, or from division of the mature plant. If you divide them to propagate new plants, be sure to protect them from cats in the neighborhood. The plant produces a volatile oil (nepetalactone) which gives off an irresistible aroma to cats when it is bruised or injured, that they, in most cases, simply cannot resist. They can totally destroy a plant with their rolling, rubbing and biting it.

Out door culture includes giving the plant any good, well-drained garden soil. They will grow in full sun or partial shade. Cold, wet soils in winter can cause the plants to rot off. Sandy soil is the best type for these plants. They need no other special attention, but can be cut back after blooming to shape the plant.

As an indoor plant, they must be given a well-drained media consisting of peat, perlite and shredded bark, or any porous materials that will hold some moisture. Give them full sunlight or a very bright spot and keep the media just moist. They can adjust to the average temperature in the home, but they will prefer to be on the cooler side. They will generally become leggy and soft-stemmed when grown as houseplants. Nepeta faassenii and N. racemosa are mainly grown as houseplants.

These plants are used for culinary purposes. They can be used either fresh, or dried and used at a later date. The leaves and flowering tops should be harvested while they are young, whether they are being used as a fresh herb or to be dried. They make a fabulous herbal tea by simply poring hot water over the leaves in a pre-heated pot. If coarser parts of the plant are used, such as the stems, they should be steeped for at least 5 minutes. The seeds may also be crushed and used to make tea by steeping them for 5 minutes. The young shoots can be used in salads or used to flavor meat, stews, soups or sauces.

The catnip plant also has medicinal qualities used to combat headaches and stomachaches. Any member of the mint family has properties that relax a person and help them to get a good nights sleep. Dried catnip leaves can be placed in an old sock and tied up, or put into an old toy and given to the cat to play with.

Pocketbook Plant

Where would you find the information on a pocketbook plant and do you know about it?

Calceolaria

The Pocketbook Plant is a common name, as is Slipperwort and Slipper Flower, for Calceolaria crena crenatiflora (also C. hybrida, C. herbacea and C. herbeohybrida). It belongs to the Snapdragon family Scrophulariaceae. The flowers look like slippers, or perhaps a pouch, the reason for the common names. Calceolaria is derived from the word 'calceolus' which means' a slipper' and refers to the flowers.

Flower colors include yellow, yellow and brown, apricot, terra cotta, red, orange, white and rose as well as being bi-colored and blotched or spotted with darker colors. The plants leaves are very soft, hairy and large. The plants average anywhere from 6 inches to 1 1/2 feet in height.

The Pocketbook Plant is generally purchased as a potted plant, treated as an annual flowering or seasonal flowering plant, and then discarded after it has completed blooming. The plant requires cool temperatures around 50 - 60 degrees F. to be at its best, the main reason it is seldom grown as a houseplant.

Calceolarias need bright light, but never any direct sunlight. Outside, the plant should be grown in partial shade or the flowers will burn in full sun. The soil, one which must be well-drained, should be kept constantly moist, but never wet or soggy. If the plant is planted to deeply or over-watered, stem rot is likely to occur.

The plant favors both good air circulation in the home as well as high humidity. Placing the plant on a pebble tray containing water will help in this matter. The plant must not be subjected to cold draughts. Once the plant is blooming, fertilizing is not required. After the plant has bloomed, the leaves die back to soil level and the plant should be discarded.

Propagation is from seed and is rather a difficult task. The seeds are very tiny, must not be covered, nor allowed to dry out. The seeds are sown in early summer and grown in pots in a cool greenhouse over the winter for spring and early summer flower decoration. It is still a treat to purchase one of these highly colored plants from a greenhouse just to enjoy those beautiful flowers.

Planting Dahlias

When is it safe to plant my dahlias? I usually wait until Memorial Day weekend, but then the flowers don't bloom until late summer. Is it safe to plant them earlier in a sheltered spot? I could cover them if there is danger of frost some night.

The large flowered Dahlias are naturally a late flowering plant, so it would be unlikely to have them flower much before mid-summer in any case. The Dahlia is extremely sensitive to even light frosts, so as a rule, they are generally not planted out until after all danger of frost has past. In our area, this is June 10th. I set the tubers out about one week prior to this date. In this way, the plant has a week to start getting established, but does not usually push up the new shoots until after the last expected frost. Even so, a watchful eye is kept on the new shoots in case of an unexpected late frost, in which case the shoots are well covered to prevent frost injury. I only cover the Dahlias with two (2) inches of soil, so it doesn't take them long to come up, and they're much easier to dig up in the fall. When they are planted this shallow, care must be taken that they do not dry out. If they should become very dry during hot periods or droughts, the wood can start to harden which will inhibit flowering, We do not want this to happen after waiting so long for them to bloom as it is. The soil must be kept constantly moist. Mulching the soil around the plants with a 3 or 4 inch layer of organic mulch such as grass clippings, or using black plastic mulch will help to keep those roots moist. When watering the plant, soak it thoroughly and deeply.

If the soil has warmed sufficiently, you can try starting your Dahlias 2 to 3 weeks earlier than your last expected frost by placing them, as you suggested, in a well sheltered location (the east side of a building is good) and protecting them with 'Kozy-Coats' or a similar product. These are a type of cloche (a translucent cover for plants) used to force plants in the garden in the early part of the growing season. Each one is made up of a series of plastic tubes which are joined together to form one cloche. The 'Kozy-Coat' is set around the plant and then each tube is filled with water. During the day, the sun heats the water in the tubes which in turn transfers that heat to the plant when the temperature falls. These tubes are 18 inches tall. In the event of real nasty weather, a thick blanket can be thrown over the 'Kozy-coat'. These cloche's should be removed once the real warm weather arrives, or the plant may suffer from too much heat.

For early summer flowering Dahlias, try the dwarf bedding types. These are started from seed and used as bedding plants. The seeds are usually sown 6 - 8 weeks before the last spring frost is due, and then the plants are 'hardened off' before setting them out in the garden. See 'Starting your own Bedding Plants' in the archives on BriansGarden. They can also be purchased at greenhouses that supply bedding plants. Some of the dwarf strains include 'Unwin'; 'Coltness'; 'Early Bird' and 'Border Jewels'.

The Dahlia is a heavy feeder, so keep it growing by feeding it once a month with 'Mor-Bloom' (0-10-10) fish fertilizer, or use any weak liquid fertilizer that is a bit lower in nitrogen such as 5-10-10 by thoroughly soaking the soil around the plant.

If the Dahlias are very tall types, a stake should be driven into the ground prior to planting the tuber to avoid injuring it at a later date. Strong winds and the weight of the flowers can cause them to fall over. Once growth is active, remove the growing tips just above the third pair of leaves to encourage side shoots. These shoots can also be looped to the stake as they grow. Remove any weak and spindly shoots. Small flower buds should be removed from the large flowering types until the plant has reached about 2/3 its full height. For real large flowers, all but one or two of the buds should be removed from each bunch. On real high flowering plants, the center bud can also be removed because it allows the outward facing buds to put on a better show. The tip bud usually stares up at the heavens where it is not as easily noticed from ground level.

Clematis Care

My clematis plant, which is several years old and blooms beautifully, for the first time has been torn down from the trellis upon which it grew. Should I prune it back, and if so how much?

Clematis macropetala

Clematis plants are pruned according to their blooming habits. The ones that start blooming in late June on the current years growth (new wood) such as Clematis x jackmannii; C. tanguitaica; C. paniculata; C. viticella; C. texensis; C. orientalis and the herbaceous types are pruned back severely in late winter or early spring before growth begins. In colder climates these plants are not pruned back until early spring, at which time they can be cut back to 15 to 30 inches from the ground leaving at least two pairs of strong buds on each stem. This should be done every spring as it promotes an abundance of new flowering wood.

Clematis nelly moser

With varieties that flower from May to June on the previous years growth (old wood), and again later on in late summer on the current seasons growth (new wood), such as 'Nellie Moser', 'The President', 'Henry', 'Duchess of Edinburgh', 'Silver Moon', 'William Kennet' and many more, they can be left unpruned or pruned using different methods. For those who choose to prune them back lightly, start at the top and work your way down. Remove dead and weak stems to the highest pair of healthy buds. These buds may be as close to the ground as 2 to 3 feet. Some of the spring flowers will be lost, but the late summer flowers will give a good show. Another method is to remove about ¼ of the oldest shoots in early spring by cutting them back to 1 foot from the ground. The following year, cut back another ¼ of the oldest shoots and so on for several years. This method helps to keep the plants from getting out of control and scraggly while ensuring flowers each year. This type of Clematis can also be pruned using a two step method each year. The stems that have produced the late blossoms are cut back hard to encourage an abundance of new wood next spring. The remaining stems, those that produced the early blossoms, are only 'dead headed' ( removing the old flower blossoms after they have faded). Other than 'dead heading', the only other pruning required on these stems is to remove weak or very old stems. It is these stems that will produce the flower buds next year at the latter part of the growing season and so they must be retained. Finally, some choose only to remove the deadwood on these plants. To be sure it is deadwood, it is usually wise to wait until late spring. If new shoots have not emerged by this time, the wood is likely dead and can be removed.

Clematis x jackmannii

The other types of Clematis bloom on the old wood. These include Clematis montana; C. chrysocoma; C. patens; C. florida and C. macropetelas, for examples. The only pruning required for these varieties is to remove dead, weak or damaged stems. Eventually, all Clematis plants will require pruning to rejuvenate them, especially if they become tall and leggy, or outgrow their allowable space. In this case they are pruned back immediately after blooming to about 1 foot from the ground, usually leaving two pairs of healthy buds on each stem.

If you know which type of Clematis you have by the above descriptions, it will be easier to decide how much to prune. If your Clematis belongs to the C. x jackmannii group, it can be cut right back. If it is one of the other groups, you can leave some of the long healthy shoots and retie them to the trellis, if possible, and shorten others. You will loose blooms for the first year, but this is unavoidable. In colder regions, many of the Clematis plants are winter killed right back down to the ground each year. Once spring arrives and the ground warms, new shoots emerge and the faithful plant gives its owner another wonderful display of color.

Pin-Wheel African Violet

Please could you tell me how best to look after a Saintpaulia chimera I was given as a gift? And does it have a common name? Thank you.

African Violet 'Chimera'

Saintpaulia is the Latin genus name of your plant. The common English name is African Violet. Chimera is a strain of African Violet. A strain is a type of plant within a certain variety which has enough different qualities about it to deserve some distinction. The Chimera strain has flowers with large, boldly-striped petals. It is often referred to as the Pin-Wheel African Violet because of the flowers stripes. As for the actual cultivar's name (the name this particular plant was given after being introduced), I would have no way of knowing this. For the proper cultural requirements of your African Violet, please refer to African Violet on the archives on Brian's Garden.

Transplanting a Fig Tree

My grandfather's fig tree which was not taken care of for years and was brought back to life by my dad who pruned and fed it. Each year the tree produces large wonderful figs. My son's nursery recently asked if we would transplant a part of that tree at a school rededication coming this April the 23rd. Both my dad and myself have not a clue as to when, how, where? to transplant from a mature tree to another yard?

Fig Tree Ficus carica

The easiest method to propagate a new tree from the parent plant is to carefully dig up a sucker (a shoot growing from the ground), if one is available. The sucker should be dug up very carefully so as to retain as many roots as possible. Place the root ball in a plastic bag immediately so the roots will not dry out. If there are no suckers, then propagating a new tree from a dormant cutting is another option.

Prepare the soil where the new tree is to grow prior to taking the cuttings. The new planting site should be located where it will receive full sunshine and has good drainage. If the tree is a large variety, be sure it is given a location where it will have ample room to develop and spread out those large branches. Fig tree roots will spread out a long way, so the tree should not be planted close to other plants, flower beds, etc., unless a special barrier is built to confine the roots.

If the chosen site is on a lawn, a 5 - 6 foot in diameter circle of sod should be removed and the soil loosened to a depth of at least 24 inches. Compost or any organic matter can be added to improve the soil if necessary. A little lime should be added if the soil is slightly acidic as well as a ¼ cup of bone-meal, and then thoroughly worked into the soil.

Fig cuttings root fairly easily, but it may be wise to take several cuttings to be sure at least one will root. Four or five cuttings can be placed in the circle of soil and all but one removed if they all root. Space them about 10 inches apart. Start another five or so in the garden for added security. They can be given away when rooted if the others succeed.

Make the cuttings from last seasons growth with a heel (a sliver of the older branch) of 2 year old wood at the base of the cutting. Cut just above a node or leaf bud on a slight angle for the top of the cutting. The top of the cutting should be treated with a sealant such as wax to prevent disease from entering the wound. The cuttings should be about ½ inch thick and 10 - 12 inches long. The cuttings base is dipped in a rooting hormone and immediately inserted into the prepared soil, or, it can be dipped in the rooting powder and allowed to callous for one week prior to planting by keeping it in a moist place around 50 - 60 degrees F. Dig a trench and insert the cuttings in the prepared soil (base down) on a slight angle at a depth so only the top bud is showing above the soils surface. Firm the soil around the cuttings and water them in well. Use a 3 - 4 inch layer of organic mulch to keep the soil moist. Keep the area free from weeds. Once the cuttings are well established ( by late summer ) choose the most vigorous plant for the keeper, and carefully remove the others so as not to disturb the roots of the remaining plant. Cut the Fig tree back to 2 feet the following spring to encourage low branching and proper shape of the tree.

One other method of propagating a new plant from your tree is to layer a branch or shoot of the parent tree , and then transplant it once it is well-rooted. For detailed instructions on layering, refer to Plant Propogation - Part 2 in the archives at BriansGarden.

Air Plant

Hi. I have an air plant. You buy it glued to a seashell at the store. It does not need dirt, just daily misting. I was wondering, my one plant grew roots, so I put it in dirt and it flowered a deep purple spiked flower and then formed two babies. I did not know what to do so I kept one baby on the mother plant and snapped the other off... well the one off died and now I have two beautiful air plants stuck together. It looks like they share one tuber type root. I just don't know how to properly take care of them. I took them out of the dirt, they looked like they were starting to rot. So what do I do next? Any help will be appreciated. I love your site! You are so informative and funny. Keep up the good work!

Air Plants Tillandsia

The 'Air Plants' (Tillandsia spp. ) belong to the Bromeliad family Bromeliaceae. Strange as it may seem, the common edible pineapple (Ananas comosus) belongs to the same family. The Tillandsia's are a large genera, consisting of at least 400 species. The famous botanist, Linnaeus, named these plants in honor of his botanist friend Elias Til-Lands.

The vast majority of these plants are found growing wild in Central America. Many are found in the dry Sonoran desert of Mexico, others in the wet, humid Darien jungle of Panama and still others in the high mountains of Guatemala. Knowing the natural habitat of the species helps in the care and culture of the plant. Basically, there two types. The most common 'Air Plants' are those found in the desert and high in the tops of trees. These plants are generally thick, stiff leafed plants with grayish, whitish or fuzzy scales. These scales act like sponges and soak up moisture from early morning dew or nighttime fog. This is often their only means of obtaining water in the hot desert. This type of 'Air Plant' is not generally potted in compost, and most definitely not in one containing soil. That would be like letting a mouse play with the cat.

In most cases, these plants are fastened to rough objects like lava rock, driftwood, tree bark, coral or seashells and then mounted on a wall, or simply set on a table top. It is important that the plants be mounted so the majority of their leaves are on the top side or facing up. The plants are fastened to the object by tying moist, long fibered sphagnum moss around the roots, just below the base where the roots start, with a plastic coated florist wire, or they are placed in containers with natural holes in them so they can be taken out and watered easily (mentioned later). Tillandsia tectorum is a good example of a desert type with its fuzzy, large white scales.

Dancing Bulb Tillandsia bulbosa

The other type, those with soft, pliable, dark green leaves have very few noticeable scales. These are the jungle Tillandsias that thrive in a rainy, humid atmosphere. These plants must be kept moist and are therefore generally potted. Even so, the media must be one that is very well drained. The best potting materials are either chopped tree fern fiber or osmunda fiber. Osmunda fiber breaks down quickly and usually requires replacing after the first year. If these materials are not available, a mixture of equal parts of sphagnum peat moss, perlite and shredded fir bark can be used. To pot the 'Air Plant', choose a 3 or 5 inch pot with drainage holes and fill the lower 1/3 of the pot with broken crocks (broken pieces of clay pots). Place the roots in the pot (they can be shortened) and press the chosen fiber or mixture tightly around the plants roots to support it. If it will not stand, tie it up-right with string or monofilament plastic line. Bear wire should not be used as it can injure the plant. The plant does not generally require repotting every year, but repot it if the compost should become sour or the roots very crowded. This is best done in the spring. Tillandsia bulbosa (Dancing Bulb) and T. cyanea (Pink Quill) are examples of the jungle type.

Pink Quill Tillandsia cyanea

Your Tillandsia is going through its natural life cycle. The first plant grows to maturity and then blooms. After it has finished blooming, new plants called 'pups' will form at the base of the 'mother' plant (usually in 1 to 2 months). The 'mother' plant will mature and complete her blooming cycle in one to several years (depending on the variety), and then die. Several generations of 'pups' can be produced during this period. Some species like T. ionantha (Blushing Bride) and T. argentea (Silver Pincushion) look attractive in a clump and need not be separated. Others, like T. xerographica, a large silver colored plant looks better by itself. Do not detach the 'pups' until they are about 2/3 (or larger) the size of the 'mother' plant, at which time they will already have produced roots of their own. They are ready to be divided when they will come away easily without pulling . They can then be mounted or potted, depending on the species.

Most 'Air Plants' require bright, indirect light. The desert types prefer brighter light with some species preferring direct sun for at least a few hours each day. Tillandsia fasciculata is one sun loving example. Grow these plants in a west or south window, being sure the sun is not so hot as to scorch them. The jungle types, the soft, mostly green ones should be set further back from south or west windows and do fine in an east window. They should all have at least 12 to 16 hours of light per day. Providing bright artificial light in the winter months is recommended. If the plant is receiving too much direct sunlight, the leaves will develop pale brown patches as a result of sun scorch. If light conditions are too low, the plants will be gangly, loose their interesting colors and loose their interesting forms or symmetry. New plants should always be placed in dappled light and then moved to a brighter or duller spot after monitoring their progress.

Air Plant Tillandsia fasciculata

All living things need water, including Tillandsias. Desert types should not be kept wet for long, and jungle types should be kept moist, not soggy or wet. Misting the plants until they are drenched is great, but misting is not always practical. The plants can be taken down or taken out of their containers and rinsed under a tap or hose until they are dripping wet. This includes underneath the leaves as well as the topside. How often the plants need rinsing or misting depends on the variety, the temperature and humidity of the room, and whether the plant is growing in the home or out of doors. Generally, inside plants are rinsed from 1 to 3 times per week, and outside plants from 4 to 5 times per week. If a plant has become very dry, as indicated by leaf edges curling in, it may be necessary to soak it in a bucket of water for 12 to 14 hours. Before a plant is put back into its container, excess water should be shaken off and the base of the plant allowed to dry. For the jungle type plants in pots in the home, the media generally requires watering once or twice weekly. When a Tillandsia is well watered, the leaves will be stiff and full of water. When the plant is dry or dehydrated, the leaves will be softer to the touch and the color of the plant will be lighter.

Fertilize the plant with a water soluble fertilizer from a fine mist spray bottle once a month by thoroughly drenching the plant. Dilute the mixture by ¼ to1/3 the manufacturer's recommended rate. Any houseplant food is o.k. if a Bromeliad fertilizer such as l7-8-22 is not available. Another method of feeding is to use a high nitrogen fertilizer (reduced to ¼ strength) like 20-5-5 or 30-10-10 once in the spring and then feed once again in the fall with a high phosphorous fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 10-20-10 reduced to ¼ strength.

The plants are happy with daytime temperatures around 70 - 75 degrees F. and night time temperatures 10 to 20 degrees cooler. The plants need plenty of fresh, circulating air to be healthy. The use of a small electric fan will move the air and also quickly dry the desert type plants surfaces after they have been watered. If the atmosphere is very dry, placing the pots on pebble trays, moistening the moss around the roots, or using a humidifier to increase humidity levels may be necessary.

A few other pointers include: do not mix thick-leafed and thin-leafed plants in the same containers as they require different watering schedules. When the plant is blooming, be sure not to soak the flower or it will rot over a short coarse of time. The roots may be shortened at any time, as they will grow back. Any dead, broken or brown leaves may be trimmed away at any time without hurting the plant. Cut the old flower stock off once the blooms have lost their attractive color. Misting the tips of thin-leafed varieties quite often will help prevent them from browning as quickly. Over watering will result in plant death. Watch for scale and mealy bug insects. Remove rotted sections and treat with a fungicide before repotting.

A few other interesting species include:

	T. edithae - dusty gray in color, tip turning red at flowering
	T. punctulata - a more up-right plant that prefers a little water in its cup-like leaf bases once or twice weekly
	T. circinnata - (Twisted Air Plant) - a small gray octopus type plant
	T. caput-medusae - (Medusa's Head) - a bulbous base with snake like arms
	T. streptophylla - (Curly Locks) - wide, twisted leaves that curl into a ball
	T. recurvata (Ball Moss) - a dense ball of tightly clustered plants
	T. setacea (Needle-Leafed Air Plant)- slender bristle-like foliage forming a dense rosette
	T. pruinosa (Hoary Air Plant) - hoar-frost like scales

There are many, many more available species.

Growing Cala Lillies and Gerbera Daisies

I am planning a wedding for the beginning of August. The two flowers I want in my arrangments, I have been told are quite expensive and difficult to deal with. I was wondering if it is possible and if I have time to grow them myself before the big day. The two types are Cala lilies and Garber daisies. If it is possible, can you tell me what I need to do to get started? Thank you for your help.

Calla lilies Zantedeschi aethiopica

Calla lilies (Zantedeschia spp. ) can be started or propagated from tubers (rhizomes) which are purchased at garden supply centers in the spring and other times of the year. The common white flowering Calla Lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) will bloom the year around under optimum growing conditions. Colored varieties are not as large growing as the white Calla lily. Many of these will begin blooming approximately 60 days after being potted if conditions are good. Two varieties include Z. rehmannii which has pink or rose colored spathes (flowers) and Z. elliottiana which has golden yellow spathes. These plants must be grown as houseplants in cold winter regions, although they can be grown outside during the frost free months of summer.

To grow these lilies in pots, a rich, organic soil is required. Potting soil can be purchased from local garden centers or prepared at home using 3 parts of commercial potting soil, 1 part sphagnum peat moss and 1 part perlite. Add 4 tablespoonfuls of bone meal to a gallon of the mixture to promote healthy roots and beautiful blooms.

Six inch pots are commonly used to start these plants. The white flowering lilies will eventually need transplanting into 12 inch or larger pots as they are rampant growers and continue to grow all year long. The colored varieties should be given a 2 to 3 month dormancy period after they have completed blooming.

Calla lilies Zantedeschia rehmannii

The rhizomes are planted in the pots so that the tips are just showing through the media. They are then watered and kept on the drier side (just moist) until roots have formed and the plant starts pushing up new growth. From this point on they must be kept constantly moist, otherwise, the lily may start to go dormant if it is allowed to dry out. If daytime temperatures around 75 degrees F. and nighttime temperatures around 62 degrees F. can be maintained, the lilies will grow quickly. As for light, they should receive full sunshine between September and June and partial shade during the hot summer months. Once they are actively growing, the plants may be fertilized once a month with any houseplant fertilizer such as 20-20-20.

Another option is to purchase several large plants and divide the rhizomes into sections. Each section must have at least one eye or bud. A large knife will be needed to cut the rhizomes into smaller sections. The best time to divide these lilies, however, is from August to September. Each section should then be planted in its own pot.

Gerbera daisies Gerbera jamesonii

As for the daisies, I am not aware of a Garber daisy. If perhaps the daisy you are referring to is the Gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), then division of larger plants and sowing seeds are the means of propagation. The plants grown from seed will take six months or longer to bloom. Both double flowering hybrids and single flowering types can be started from seed. It is very important to purchase fresh seed. Seed that is older than 3 months may have zero viability. In other words, they will probably never germinate. The seed is sown in late winter, usually 18 weeks prior to the date they can be set out in the garden. The seed requires light to germinate, so, the pointed end of the seed is pressed into the starting media, but is not covered. Clear plastic is then placed over the pots or flats to keep the humidity level high. Gradually remove the plastic once the seedlings start to emerge. Transplant them into 3 or 4 inch pots once they reach the true second leaf stage. The media should be well-drained and rich in organic matter. Keep the media moist, but not soggy or crown rot may develop. Once the weather and soil have warmed, the plants may be 'hardened off' and set out of doors in the garden. Plant them so that the crown (the bottom end of the plant fastened to the roots) is level with the soil. Give the plants full sun to partial shade.

The other option is to buy large plants (if possible) and divide them into single rosettes in June. This would be a much quicker method of bringing the plants into bloom.

Sagging Snake Plant

My mother in-laws tongue has begun to sag. The leaves used to be very rigid and now seem to be very soft. What can I do to improve the health of my plant? Thanks.

Mother-in-law Tongue Sanseveria

Generally, when there is a problem with the tough old Sanseveria (Mother-in-law Tongue), it has to do with the soil and roots. These problems are more often associated with the plant during or shortly after the cooler, shorter days of winter while the plant has been dormant.

Wilting leaves are often a physiological disorder caused by over fertilizing the plant. These plants only require fertilizing once a year in the growing season, as a rule, with a cactus type fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. A plant must never be fertilized while it is dormant as excess salts will prevent the roots from taking up water. This is often known as 'burning' the roots.

Over watering the plant during the winter months is a common problem with the plant. In winter, the plant may only require watering once a month or once every two months. If the plant is being over watered and room temperatures are quite cool besides (temperatures should not fall below 55F.), then rhizome and root rot is likely to occur. Once the roots have rotted, they are unable to take up water and the leaves will sag or wilt. In a lot of cases, when a plant starts to wilt because of too much water, we think the plant needs more water, so more is added, thus making the problem worse. The cooler the temperature, the less water a plant will require at any time of the year.

A Mother-in-Law Tongue will also wilt if it is far too dry. No plant can live without any water.

One more possibility could be Root Knot nematodes. These microscopic worm-like creatures can attack the roots of Sanseveria species, feeding on them as well as spreading a disease known as Root Knot. This disease can be identified by swellings, or galls, formed on the roots of the plant.

The easiest way to check your plants roots is to remove it from the pot. If a massive collection of healthy, white roots are visible, then maybe the plant only needs repotting. If, however, the roots are brown or black, mushy and the soil has a foul odour, then root and rhizome rot is apparent. Remove as much soil from the roots as possible, and then wash the remaining soil away with water from the tap. If all the roots are rotten, then throw the plant away. If only a few roots and rhizomes have rotted, cut off all the rotted parts, including any portion of a leaf that has rotted. Let the plant sit out of the pot for about two days, dust the cut surfaces with a fungicide powder, and then repot it in a new pot with fresh compost. Place the plant in a well-lit spot without direct sun, and water it sparingly until new growth appears. Always let the soil surface dry before giving the plant more water. When watering the plant, drench the soil until it runs out of the drainage holes in the pot, and then leave it until the soil surface is dry.

Planting Dahlia and Gladiolus

How deep do you need to plant Dahlia and Gladiolus bulbs?

Dahlia

There are two methods of planting Dahlia tubers and Gladiolus corms. The first step is to prepare the soil by adding 3 inches of compost or well rotted manure and sprinkling 3 to 4 ounces of bone meal per square yard over the area and working these materials in to a depth of 10 inches. A fertilizer with a higher phosphorous percentage such as 11-48-0 may also be sprinkled over the area and worked in prior to planting. Dahlias are heavy feeders and will benefit with this additional feeding.

One method for planting Dahlias is to simply dig a wide enough and deep enough hole so that the tuber can be spread out horizontally and the top of the tuber can be covered with 2 to 4 inches of soil. Planting a dahlia tuber is much the same as planting a common potato, except that new growth is produced at the base of the old stems, so each tuber must have a section of crown and buds in order to grow. The buds should always be facing upwards when planted. Quite often newly purchased tubers can be divided before planting them to increase your stock. Just be sure each section of healthy root has a piece of crown with at least one bud on it. If you are not sure where to divide them, plant the tuber in some moist peat and wait until the new shoots appear. As long as each section of root has one of these shoots, it will grow.

The second method is to dig a 6 inch deep hole wide enough to spread the tuber out horizontally and then cover it with 2 inches of soil. As the new shoots emerge and grow, the hole is gradually filled in with the remainder of the soil until it is level with the soils surface.

Gladioli

An important thing to remember about Dahlias is that they must not dry out during periods of drought, or they could stop blooming. Adding a 3 to 4 inch layer of organic mulch over the soil around the plants will help to keep the soil moist.

To plant Gladiolus corms, the small-flowering varieties (primulinus) should be covered with 3 inches of soil on light, sandy soils and with 2 inches of soil on heavy clay soils. Large flowering varieties can be covered with 6 inches of soil, but I always follow the 'height of the corm' planting method. The corm should be planted 3 times as deep as its height. For example, if the corm measures l1/2 inches in height, it should be covered with 4 1/2 inches of soil. Covering the corm with 4 1/2 inches of soil means from the tip (top) of the corm to the soils surface.

Gladiolus can also be planted using the trench method. The corms are planted in the bottom of a 6 inch deep trench and covered with 2 inches of soil. As the shoots emerge and grow, the trench is gradually filled in with the remaining soil until it is level with the soils surface. Both tall dahlias and gladiolus may require staking in the garden to prevent winds from blowing them over.

Rose Cuttings

I want to take cuttings from a ladybanks rose (yellow) that I see growing in a friend yard. How and when can I take the cuttings to propogate them and have plants of my own?

Lady Banks Rose (Rosa banksiae)

The Lady Banks Rose (Rosa banksiae) may be propagated in the spring from softwood cuttings. Be sure to use healthy flowering shoots for cutting material (disease free, etc.). After the rose has bloomed and the petals are ready to fall, remove the blossom by removing a couple of inches of the shoot just below it at a leaf (one leaf is made up of several small leaves known as leaflets - this one leaf is called a compound leaf). Cut just above this compound leaf at a 45 degree angle to remove the withered flower. Next, make your cutting by making another diagonal cut 5 or 6 inches farther down on the shoot beneath a node. Carefully remove all the leaves on the stem except for the top pair. These cuttings should immediately be placed in a plastic bag or a container of water to keep them from withering or drying out.

The rooting media should be prepared in advance of taking the cuttings. Prepackaged rooting media, vermiculite, vermiculite and coarse sand, peat moss or perlite can all be used to root cuttings. To prevent the cuttings from rotting, the bottom end may be dipped in a fungicidal solution before it is dipped into a softwood rooting powder that will stimulate root growth. Six inch plastic pots or flats may be used for containers. Fill the containers to about ½ inch from the top of the container with the rooting media. Make a hole in the media with a pencil and insert the cutting into this hole. Insert the cuttings 1 to 2 inches deep in the media. Firm the soil around each cutting and then water the container well. Six cuttings per six inch pot is fine. Flats will naturally hold many more cuttings. Let the containers drain well after watering them. Do not let the leaves touch each other, nor let them touch the media. Place the pot in a clear plastic bag (held up by inserting sticks into the media) to keep the cuttings humid so they will not wilt. Place them in a bright, warm spot, but not in direct sunlight. When new growth appears in approximately 6 to 8 weeks, they should be rooted and can then be moved to individual pots. Use either 3 inch plastic pots or 3 inch peat pots. Loosen the media and lift them gently when transplanting them to these pots so as not to damage too many roots. Cover each cutting with a plastic bag again for about three weeks to help encourage root growth into the new media. The new young plants will need to be 'hardened off' gradually before transplanting them outside.

Hardwood cuttings may also be taken in the autumn when the plant is dormant. Normally this is just after leaf drop. In cold winter areas the cuttings are taken (usually 8 inches long for hardwood cuttings), tied in bundles of about 25, laid horizontally in a container and buried with a six to eight inch layer of moist sand or peat, and then placed in a cool root cellar or refrigerator. In early spring (Late Feb. or early March), the cuttings are taken from storage and inserted in a rooting media as above. The butt end of the cutting must always be inserted in the rooting media. Normally, the butt end of a cutting is cut straight across and the top is cut on a slight angle for identification of top and bottom.

Where climates are mild, the hardwood cuttings may be inserted in well prepared garden soil outside as soon as they are taken. The site must have good drainage, be well sheltered from winds and located where the cuttings are not exposed to direct sun (an east or north side of a building is good). The cuttings are inserted in the soil so that only ¼ of the cutting remains above the soil level. The soil is then firmed around the cuttings. The use of a cold frame is beneficial for starting cuttings. Once the cuttings leaf out in the spring, they must not be allowed to dry out. In many cases they will leaf out before they form roots so if the soil becomes dry, the cuttings will die. By autumn they should be well rooted and ready to move to their permanent location. Dig them up carefully to prevent injuring the fine roots.