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Pampas Grass (Cortaderia spp. ) generally require several years before they will produce those beautiful, feathery plumes. Many plants will not bloom until their 4th or 5th year, so patience is necessary. However, once the plant starts producing those beautiful, fluffy plumes that can reach 3 feet in length atop the tall stems, the waiting is made worthwhile. Female plants should be chosen for the garden as they produce the largest plumes.
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Scale insects can be very difficult to control due to the fact the adult scale are completely covered by a tough round or oval shell. Pesticides will have little effect on the adult for this reason. (Systemic insecticides which are applied to the soil and taken up by the plant are often used to control scale on some plants). The adult scale will lay her eggs under this protective covering, which in turn protects the eggs. Once the eggs hatch into nymphs, however, they will crawl out from under the shell to feed on the plants juices. This is the only time they are mobile and at the same time most susceptible to insecticides. Because the adult scale lays hundreds of eggs which are hatching at different times, repeat applications of an insecticide at regular intervals is most important. Once the nymphs start feeding, they no longer move and start forming the protective shell. If irregular spraying is allowed, some will have time to form this shell, reach adulthood, and the cycle will continue.
The best control method is to first remove heavily infested branches, leaves, and stems, because scale infestations move slowly over the plant due to the short nymph stages. The use of a strong, handheld magnifying glass will help to detect these insects in the nymph stage. Cutting Boston Ferns fronds completely back to the soil line will not kill the plant in any case, as new shoots will soon appear and quickly replace the old. This is perhaps the best means of control if plants are very heavily infested, even though it may seem drastic.
Brushing off the adult scale insects with a fine toothbrush and soapy water will often work if insect numbers are not too high. This should then be followed by three insecticide applications to destroy the nymphs.
When using pesticides, remember : ALWAYS FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ON THE CONTAINERS LABELS. Repeat applications as suggested by the manufacturer of the product, or, repeat every 2 - 3 weeks, 2 to 3 times in order to catch all the crawlers (nymphs) as they hatch. Some insecticides may harm a plants foliage, depending on the environmental conditions of the plants location. For this reason it is better to try them on one or two plants, rather than treating the whole lot at once. If damage to the plant is to occur, it is generally noticeable in one to fourteen days. The following insecticides used to control scale are generally safe on Boston Ferns: Safer's Insecticidal Soap; Kinoprene (Enstar, Enstar 5E, or Enstar 11) and Bendiocarb (Dicarb or Turcam), or any other insecticide that clearly states on the containers label that it can be used for control of brown scale and will not harm Boston Ferns.
P.S. Your site has provided the most useful information on ponytail palms I have been able to find in the 17 years I have had them. Many thanks!
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The best way to start a plant from a cutting really depends on the kind of plant you are trying to propagate. Some plants like the wandering Jew (Tradescantia fluminensis) for example, are so easy to start by simply placing the cuttings in a jar of water, and once they are well rooted, potting them up in a rich compost, that no special method is necessary. Other plants require such perfectly controlled environmental conditions to promote rooting of the cutting, that it is best for us to purchase a plant from experienced growers. Furthermore, there are those plants that simply will not root from cuttings and must be propagated from seeds, buds, grafting or other methods. So, to sum up the above paragraph, it is very important to know if the plant you intend to propagate from cuttings, is one that will do so, or whether a different means of propagation should be used in order to avoid failure and disappointment.
Once it has been determined that the plant you choose to propagate from cuttings is suitable, taking the cuttings at the correct time of the year or season is also very important, with the exception of a few plants that will root readily at any time of the year. This is important because some plants will only root well once their plant tissues are hardened, ripe, or mature, while others root more readily when the plant material is still soft, unripe, or not mature. These cuttings are known as hardwood, semi-hardwood, or softwood cuttings, and pertain to any type of plant, whether it be a houseplant, perennial, shrub or tree. For detailed information on when and how to take cuttings, and the best way to start them, refer to Butterfly Bush from March 16, 2001, or Lady Banks Rose from April 5, 2001.
On a final note, before taking cuttings from a plant, be sure the vegetative material is free from disease (ex. any fungus, bacteria); pests (ex. scale, mealy bugs); is true to type, and is not flowering or does not have any flower buds present. Flower buds must be removed if they are present, otherwise, the plant will use up its energy in producing flowers instead of a root system. It is wise to use a sterile rooting medium such as horticultural grade vermiculite to root the cuttings to prevent the possibility of disease or pests. This type of material is also porous which allows oxygen to reach the roots, while at the same time having the ability to hold moisture. If the rooting media can be kept warm by providing bottom heat, the cuttings will root much quickly. A cutting is usually well rooted once new growth is observed, or when it will not lift when being gently tugged on.
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Yes, the fruits of the Western Sandcherry (Prunus besseyi) are indeed edible. These black cherries are at least twice the size of the common Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) and are usually astringent (they tend to pucker the tissues of the mouth). Good luck with your jelly.
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If the Calla Lily you wish to separate is one of the white flowering varieties of Zantedeschia aethiopica, than the best time to divide or separate them is late August or early September. The easiest way to divide these plants is to use a large, sharp knife and slice the crown into several sections. Put each section into its own pot filled with a highly organic soil containing about 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of bonemeal per gallon of soil.
The colored varieties of Calla Lilies may be repotted in fresh soil as soon as their 2 to 3 month rest period is over. Resume watering the plant to activate new growth.
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Generally speaking, it is a good practice to remove the spent flowers on most ornamental plants whose flowers are not sterile. Otherwise, the plant will put much energy into producing seed rather than into new growth or new flower buds for next years flowers with those varieties that produce next years flower buds this year. The dried up flowers should be removed immediately to improve the plants appearance, unless: those spent flowers have special ornamental appeal; will produce fruits with ornamental value (ex. Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.)); or the seed from the plant is to be used to propagate more plants. For interest sake, seed can only be used for propagation from the species, not from named varieties. For example, you could start new Butterfly Bush shrubs from Buddleia davidii, but not from Buddleia davidii 'Royal Red'. Named varieties (cultivars) must be started from plant parts such as cuttings, buds, bulbs, etc.. Butterfly Bush shrubs will bloom very quickly when started from seed, in as little as seven to eight months.
If your Butterfly Bush is the type that blooms on the current years growth (like an annual flower that grows and produces flowers the same year - Buddleia davidii, for example), than it should be pruned back hard (4 inches from the ground) each year in March or April to promote healthy new growth. In this case, removing spent flowers is mainly for aesthetic value. For those types that bloom in the spring and produce next years flower buds this year, (Buddleia alternifolia, for example), it is best to prune them and remove the spent flowers immediately after blooming.