Transplanting Methods

A few years ago a nursery planted an area, and it is going great. But I need to transplant and both Internet and the books use terminology and idioms that are not familiar to me - rhizomes, and the like.

If I carefully dig up a plant, and take as much of the root as I can using a scissors, then replant in a small foxhole bottomed with 10-10-10 or Hollytone, and dirt, then water daily for a while, is this pretty much the same, or am I missing something? Thanks.

Healthy Lawn

Rhizomes are specialized stems that run more or less horizontally underground. They are different from ordinary roots in that they have nodes and internodes. Above ground, nodes are found on a plants stems or branches where the leaves or buds are attached. The area between the nodes is called the internode. Below the ground, rhizomes have nodes and each node has a bud(s), whereas, ordinary roots do not have nodes, so they do not have buds. Ginger and Iris are examples of plants that have thick rhizomes, so the buds are very easy to see on them. Quack grass and many kinds of lawn grass (Kentucky Blue grass for example) spread by means of thin underground rhizomes. As they spread along under the soil, a new clump of grass springs up from each node, resulting in a beautiful, thick lawn.

So, what the internet and books are telling us, is that we can start a new plant from one little piece of the rhizome (underground stem) as long as it has at least one node or bud on it. Two or more buds per piece is best. (In much the same way we can start a potato plant from a piece of tuber with several eyes on it).

The plant can of course be propagated (starting new plants) by simply digging up a portion of the parent plant and dividing it into smaller pieces. Small plants that have developed from the nodes on the rhizomes which are located around the parent plant can also be dug up and transplanted to a new location. A lot of the tiny feeder roots will be cut off when the plants are dug up, so it is best to cut away excess foliage to compensate for root loss. Cut the stems back to a couple of inches from the soil, leaving a couple of leaves or buds on each stem. The fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed into the soil prior to planting. A high concentrate of fertilizer located directly beneath a plant can result in the 'salt effect' (burning of the roots). I have no idea what 'Hollytone' is, so I can not make any comments on this. Finally, it is much better to thoroughly soak the soil around the plants and then water again when needed, as opposed to watering everyday. The plant may not need water every day.

Good luck with your new plants.

Starting Plants from Cuttings

How do I get roots to grow on cut branches such as apple, forsythia and, magnolia? Thanks.

Forsythia

Apple tree cuttings from branches will seldom, if ever root. Apple tree species are started from seeds, and named varieties ( McIntosh or Delicious, for example ) are started on rootstocks by either budding (buds) or grafting (scions) them.

Magnolia and Forsythia cuttings can be taken at different times of the year, and if given the right environmental conditions, root readily. Both of these can be rooted from semi-ripe cuttings, softwood cuttings and greenwood cuttings. Forsythia can also be started from hardwood cuttings. Greenwood cuttings are slightly firmer and darker then softwood cuttings and are taken from the plant between late spring and early summer.

For complete information on how to take and make these cuttings, and how to root them, read the Butterfly Bush article from March 16, 2001. This is exactly the same way to propagate cuttings from Magnolia trees and Forsythia shrubs.

Forsythia can also be propagated by simple-layering in early spring or in autumn. It's very easily done. Just find a shoot or stem that bends easily (is pliable) at the edge of the shrub and bend it over so that the top 8 inches or so will lay flat on the soil. Pound a skinny stake into the soil at this spot and dig a 3 inch deep trench that slopes upwards away from the shrub. Bend the shoot over so that it lies in the trench with the top 3 or 4 inches of the tip running up along the stake. Hold the stem in the trench with a 'U' shaped piece of wire and tie the tip to the stake so it stays in an upright position. Fill the trench back in with soil and water it well. When you are done, it will look like a little 3 or 4 inch tree leaning up against a stake. Keep the soil moist and weed free all summer. The layered tip should be well rooted by the end of autumn, but don't be in a real hurry to dig it up as it takes almost a whole year for it to root well. When it is well-rooted and ready to move to its permanent location, sever or cut the stem that attaches it to the parent plant, dig it up and transplant it. Best of luck with your cuttings.

Mind Your Own Business!

Hi there... Have you ever heard of a plant called 'Mind Your Own Business'? I am trying to find the real name and also what it looks like as a friend has told me they had one when she was a child. We both wondered if they are still around . We have looked at the garden centre but not had any luck. Maybe you could help us... Thank you.

Soleirolia soleirolii

The name 'Mind Your Own Business' is a common name given to the houseplant Soleirolia soleirolii. Another more common name is 'Baby's Tears'. The plants botanical name was previously Helxine soleirolii. The Latin name commemorates Captain Joseph Francois Soleirol (1796 - 1863 ) who collected this plant and other plants from Corsica in the western Mediterranean region. The common name 'mind your own business' originates from the fact the plant is of the creeping nature and spreads rapidly, often where it is not wanted. It belongs to the family Urticaceae, the same family in which the 'Stinging Nettle' belongs, although there is nothing stingy about this plant.

The plant is a tender, mat-forming herbaceous perennial. It spreads rapidly by sending out large numbers of thin, pinkish thread-like stems, each covered with tiny, 1/5 inch long, bright green, roundish leaves. The minute flowers on the plant have no ornamental value. In zone 10 where the plant can be grown out of doors, (it cannot stand frost), it is often used to fill in cracks between paving stones and flagstones. It is very suited to growing on dry walls and in rockeries, although care must be given to where it is planted, as its rapidly spreading habit can be very invasive. The plant needs light shade and an evenly moist soil to succeed out doors.

In the home, the plant is simply beautiful, forming hummocks of rich, green foliage that cascade over the edges of the pot. Many mistake the plant for some type of moss. Soleirolia soleirolii 'Aurea' has beautiful golden colored leaves which looks like sunshine if the correct light shines on the plant. Two other cultivars include 'Argentea' which has silvery colored leaves, and 'Variegata' which has silver edges on the leaves.

Give the plant bright, indirect light for it to be at its best, but never sit it in scorching sunlight. It will also tolerate dappled shade to moderate shade.

Baby's Tears will grow nicely under normal household temperatures, with nights in the 55 - 65°F range and daytimes near 70 to 75°F. In winter, the temperature must not fall below 45°F.

The most critical part in taking care of the plant is to never let it dry out. The soil must be constantly moist or the fleshy stems and leaves are apt to collaspe and die. On the other hand, the plant will not stand overly wet, soggy soil either. Just moist. Humidity trays should be provided and the foliage should be misted frequently during hot, dry spells.

The plant can be fed every second or third week with a diluted solution of 10-10-10 water soluble fertilizer. Never fertilize the plant when it is dormant, over dry or after being freshly potted.

Propagation of the plant is very simple. All that is necessary is to tear off small rooted pieces of the plant and place them on top of moist compost in a pot. Use 4 or 5 inch pots to start new plants. A good potting soil consists of ordinary potting soil with about 1/3 more peat moss added, as well as some perlite for drainage and bonemeal to supply needed nutrients. ( 2 tablespoonfulls of bonemeal per gallon of soil ). The plants may be repotted in spring if necessary, but because they are so easy to propagate from little clumps of the plant, it is often best to keep some new plants coming. The old plants do not last forever, as they begin to look worn and tired. Once the new plant is well established, chuck the old one.

Creating Well Drained Soil

I am a newer gardener, I just started. I dug out a 10x20 vegetable garden out of clay soil and replaced with top soil and horse manure. It rained hard over the weekend and now my garden is very very wet. I am trying to dry out the soil with peat added, but it doesen't seem to drain well. I don't want to get into another rain storm in the summer and find out it still does not drain. What do you suggest to add to soil or drainage to help alleviate this problem. Thanks!!

Garden Plot

It is not a good practice to replace a soil with another type of soil. Soil layers with different soil structures almost always cause drainage problems. The water runs quickly through the top layer and then is slowed down by the heavier clay layer below. It is best to toss the top layer of clay aside, loosen about a foot of the sub-layer with a fork or spade, return the top clay soil and mix ample amounts of organic matter and some sharp sand in with it. If your soil has poor drainage to begin with, your method has probably made it worse. Is the area around your garden plot as saturated or wet as is the 10 x 20 foot garden plot? You can check to see if your soil has naturally bad drainage by digging a hole about a foot deep and filling it with water. If it takes a few minutes to about 1/2 hour to drain away, drainage is not bad. If it takes over an hour to a full day to drain away, then there is a drainage problem with the soil.

The only way to provide proper drainage is to lay a grid of weeping tile under the garden plot and drain it away from the garden ( if there is a natural slope, and you have the room on your property to do this, just run the weeping tile off to a lower point). Otherwise, you need a dry well to run the weeping tile into. To make a dry well, dig a hole in the ground that is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter and about 4 or 5 feet deep and fill it with rocks. The weeping tile will drain the excess water to this well. Information on how to lay weeping tile can be obtained from where it is purchased. It is work, but it dosn't take a rocket scientist to do the job.

Another option is to grow your vegetables on raised beds. Replace the clay in the plot and build 10 to 12 inch deep beds, about 3 to 4 feet wide on top of the clay soil. This is done by pulling soil into piles and levelling it off, and then using the area where the soil has been taken as the walk-ways. These walk-ways can be mulched with straw or something to keep them from getting muddy when it rains or the garden is watered. These beds generally work well in areas where there is poor drainage. Best of luck with your garden plot.

Pruning Ficus

My Ficus is several years old and out if control (looks more like a bush). How/when best to prune? Thanks!

Ficus Benjamina

Before we can start pruning an indoor tree, we must know why we are pruning the tree. After the tree has been pruned, it should still retain its natural shape and beauty, and appear as though it has never been pruned. This is the same process required for pruning trees out of doors. We could compare a good or bad pruning job to a good or bad haircut, with the exception that a bad haircut usually only lasts about 3 weeks.

It is very important to understand precisely the purpose of removing parts of a healty tree and what you are trying to accomplish by doing so. Normally, indoor trees are pruned because they have grown too large for their alloted space or they may be lopsided, overgrown and unattractive. It is a must to keep in mind the natural shape of the tree and not try to change it because the tree will naturally want to grow back to its natural shape in any case. If possible, picture the tree in your mind with that stem or branch removed before actually removing it. Sometimes it is possible to carefully bend a branch back in order to see what the tree will look like without that branch being there, without having to cut it off first. Remember, it is easy to cut a branch off, but not so easy to put it back on. Most badly pruned trees will still live, its just that no one will want to show them off.

It is also very important to remember the proper pruning techniques. Use sharp tools when making the cuts to avoid tearing or ripping the bark when removing a branch from the tree. Smooth, clean cuts will heal quickly and reduce the chance of pathogenic (disease) organisms from entering the wound. Never, ever leave stubs on a tree. Stubs are very unattractive as well as invites for disease pathogens. At the same time, do not cut too deeply into the stem or branch that you are removing the branch from. There is a slight ridge of bark at the top of the branch where it joins the stem (branch bark ridge) and a swollen area at the base of that branch known as the 'branch collar'. Make all pruning cuts along the outside edge of the branch bark ridge by starting at the top of the branch and following it down on a slight angle so that the pruning cut ends on the outside edge of the branch collar ( swollen base ) at the bottom of the branch. The 'branch collar' has built in self-defense mechanisms which automatically shuts down the flow of sap through xylem and phloem tissue near the wound to prevent the transfer of disease organisms throughout the tree, if one should enter the wound. At the same time, a healing process of cells rolling over cells begins in this area to enclose the wound. Eventually, the bark grows over the wound and in many cases there is no evidence that a branch ever existed in that spot.

When To Prune

All indoor trees should be pruned just prior to their period of most active growth. Spring is usually the time, but this is not always the case. Some trees will start into growth earlier, others later. The tree will give the signal when it is time to prune. As soon as it starts to put out numerous leafy shoots, it is ready to prune. Once these shoots are well-advanced or fully grown, it is too late to prune the tree until the following season.

Pruning The Tree

It is very important to know the natural shape of the tree before pruning even a twig. Picture the tree in your mind as though you could look right through or past the leaves. It is the structure or framework of the tree that will be pruned, not the leaves. Without leaves, the stems and branches of a round shaped tree will appear round ( ex. Norway Maple ), vase-shaped ( American Elm) or columnar shaped ( Lombardy Poplar ), for examples. Ficus benjamina has a vase-shaped or 'Y' structural shape, so using this tree as an example, pruning is done in such a way that when completed, the vase-shape should be apparent.

Trees with single trunks or stems are relatively easy to prune. Those with two or more trunks that grow straight upwards will look overgrown and crowded. In this case, it may be necessary to spread the stems apart to give the tree a more open, vase-shaped appearance. This is accomplished by placing a wooden brace between the trunks, about 1/3 of the way up from the base of the trees trunks. A brace can be made from a piece of 2x2 lumber with burlap attached to each end. The burlap is soft and will not rub or dmage the bark. The length of the brace is determined by how much spread of the trunks is required to give the tree a good appearance. The brace remains in this position until the tree naturally retains that shape. With the trunks spread apart, pruning is also easier.

The objective now is to remove:

• Crowded branches
• Crossing or rubbing branches
• Branches that grow straight up into the center of the tree or compete with the main leader
• Branches that are growing inwards rather than outwards on multi-stemmed trees, and
• Any errantly growing branches that disfigure the tree

The idea is to open up the tree somewhat so that air and light can filter through it. Start by working with the largest branches. Choose strong, well-placed branches for the main branches and remove over-crowding weaker branches, being sure the branch you are leaving on the tree retains the natural shape of the tree. The next step is to remove smaller branches if necessary. When two branches are crossing, rubbing or growing directly towards each other, remove the one that is the most errant or out of place. It may not always be necessary to remove the whole branch, but merely cut it back to another slightly larger branch. Remove the smaller branch by cutting it back to a larger branch in the same manner as described above for removing a branch from the trunk (main stem). Overgrown branches on one side of the tree can be shortened to even out the overall shape of the tree by cutting that branch back to a larger branch on the main branch, or to a leaf (bud).

Cutting a branch back to a leaf is very useful in shaping a Ficus benjamina tree. It is possible to make a new branch grow in any direction, and, of course, it is very important to know what is going to happen to that part of the tree after any pruning is done. So, when a small branch or twig is cut back, the new growth is going to grow in the direction of the last leaf on the branch. For example, if the last leaf on the branch or twig is on top of the branch, it will shoot upwards and not follow the angle of that branch, thus destroying the natural shape of the tree. If the last leaf is at the bottom of the branch, it will grow outwards and downwards, giving the weeping effect as it should on this tree. If the last leaf is on either side of the branch, the new branch will grow in the direction of the side of the branch it is on. These side facing leaves are often useful in producing new branches for filling in bare spots in the tree.

Branches that want to grow upward into the tree disfigure the tree. Cut these branches back to a larger outward facing branch or leaf.

Branches on a tree with more than one trunk will often grow into other branches. Remove those that rub either against a trunk or another branch and carefully thin out over-crowded branches.

Finally, remove any branch or twigs that are simply growing in an errant manner, like twisting or turning in any direction. Quite often this happens to larger trees that depend on light from windows. Branches located farthest away from the window or source of light will turn and grow towards the light. These branches often ruin the shape of the tree. This can be prevented by placing the potted plant on a piece of plywood with wheels which enables a person to turn the large potted tree. It should be turned a quarter turn every week to give all sides of the tree equal light. This reduces the need for corrective pruning.

When a tree becomes too tall or too large for its alloted space, a major pruning is necessary. Once again, it is very important to keep the natural shape of the tree in mind. The whole idea is to turn the tall vase or 'Y' shaped tree into a smaller vase or 'Y' shaped tree. To do this, find a lower branch on each of the main branches that is growing on the outside of the main branch, and is a little thinner than the main branch. When you find the appropriate smaller baranch, cut off the main branch above the side branch. When all the main branches have been pruned in this manner, each side branch becomes the 'new' main branch which will retain the shape of the tree because they will all point to the outside of the tree. Because all of the new main branches were made from shorter side branches, the overall size of the tree is reduced.

The tree may look a bit bare for a while, but new growth will develop just below the cuts on the main stem and eventually fill the center of the tree in. Any branchless areas will soon fill in with new branches. Although this may seem to be a drastic way to reduce the size of a tree, it is better done this way than having to trim or nip the ends off the long branches each year.

Jade Plant Care

I have a large jade plant that I would like to transplant. It is becoming top-heavy and has tipped its pot over twice. I don't want to lose this beautiful big plant. What is your suggestion for repotting it? Are there pot sizes to consider? Soil? Fertilizer?

Jade plant

Use a clay pot with a good drainage hole at the bottom. They are heavy and less likely to topple over. The clay pot also breathes through its sides, reducing the possibility of root rot from over-watering. Use a 1 or 1 1/2 size larger pot than the one the plant is currently in. Too large a pot can result in over-watering problems.

Use a well-drained potting medium. Purchase a pre-packaged one made for cacti and succulents or prepare your own by mixing equal amounts of sharp sand and commercial potting soil. Adding a bit of bonemeal to the soil promotes a healthy root system.

When repotting the plant, remove any excessively long roots, especially those that may be wrapped in a circle around the base of the rootball. Use a sharp knife or sharp pruners and cut them off right next to the rootball. Also, remove any damaged or rotten roots at this time. If possible, try to remove some of the old compost from the sides and bottom of the rootball, being carefull not to damage too many of the fine feeder roots. Put some soil in the bottom of the pot, set the rootball on this soil and gently firm the soil around the rootball as you continue filling the sides of the pot with soil. Do not pack it in. Plant it at the same depth as it was in the old container. Wait for a few days before watering the plant (this gives the cut end of the roots a change to callous) and then thoroughly soak the soil. Never let the pot sit in the excess water as this can lead to root rot problems.

The plant can be fed weekly during the growing season if the fertilizer is diluted to 1/4 strength recommended by the manufacturer of the product. The best fertilizer for members of the Crassula family is one that is high in phosphorous. A water soluble 15-30-15 is a good choice.

Starting Mountain Ash From Seed

I'd like to grow local mountain ash from seed, but have had no luck with germination. What do these seeds need to be convinced to sprout?

Mountain Ash - Sorbus scopulina

Sorbus species (Mountain Ash) are very easy to propagate from seed. What's hard is the patience, it takes two years for the seed to germinate.

Collect the berries in autumn after they have ripened (they will be very plump). Extract the seed from the pulp by squashing them with a piece of 2 x 4 lumber or by any other means. The seed can be washed, but this is not really necessary, just as long as it is free from the pulp.

Prepare a 2 or 3 foot wide bed of soil at the edge of the garden or where it can remain undisturbed for 2 summers. The seed can be sown immediately after it is collected. Scatter the seed rather thinly over the prepared bed of soil. Cover the seeds with about 1/4 inch of black peat. Put a fence or any type of border around the bed so no one runs over it with the garden tiller or one does not forget where it is. Label it using a water proof marking pen and a garden stake. Pull out any weeds carefully by hand as soon as they appear. The smaller the weed plant, the less soil disturbance. Winter will go by.

In spring, summer and autumn, keep the weeds pulled and keep the bed moist if there is no rain. Winter will go by. Then, once spring arrives, the seedlings will start emerging by the hundreds (depending on how many seeds were sown). Keep the bed watered and free of weeds. In the fall when the small trees drop their leaves and are doromant, they can be transplanted into rows in the garden, spaced about 2 feet apart, or they can be transplanted in the spring.

The secret here is giving the seeds two periods of cooling. They can also be fooled by placing them in a refrigerator a couple of times, with a warm period in between, but it is so much easier the way Mother Nature handles it. Occasionally, a few seeds will germinate after the first winter. Good luck this time.

Yucca Fungal Bacteria

I recently purchased a Yucca tree from a home improvement store for a north facing entryway. It looked healthy at the time of purchase. Within a month I noticed that toward the top of the tallest trunk there was a fowl-smelling dark wet substance weeping from it. One of the shoots in that area yellowed and drooped so I cut it off. The hole where the shoot had been is now dark and moldy. The tree is in quality potting soil in a pot that you water from the bottom. What am I doing wrong? Can the tree be nursed back to health? The other three trunks look fine.

Yucca recurvifolia

Your plant has a fungal or bacterial rot disease which is probably due to poor growing conditions and maybe over watering. Try to scrape off the mouldy, rotten tissue and dust it with sulphur. There is no fungicide available for the control of this disease.

Yucca's are desert plants. They need to be grown in full sun, such as a south window, not a northern exposure. Without adequate light, the plant will slowly deteriorate.

A much better method of watering the plant is to thoroughly soak the soil by adding water from the top of the pot. Keep adding water until it runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. Do not let the pot sit in this excess water as it will keep the soil too wet. I set all of my potted plants on pieces of 2 inch thick wood that sit in the watering trays. Excess water is below the pot and there is no need to lift and remove the pot each time the plant is watered. A Yucca plant that has constantly wet soil is prone to root rot and stem rot. Misting the plant can also lead to rot problems of the stem and leaves under poor growing conditions. Avoid getting water on the leaves.

If you can stop the rot disease from spreading, give the plant direct sunlight, and let the soils surface dry before watering the plant each time, it should survive. If the plant continues on a downhill swing, take it out of the pot and check the roots for signs of rot. Remove any rotten roots, repot the plant in a well drained media and be careful not to overwater it, especially in the winter time. Good luck with your plant.

Cotoneaster Growing Conditions

My purple leaved Cotoneasters look terrible. They are around 10 years old and do not have many leaves. Do they need to be drastically pruned or a good dose of fertilizer? If so, tell me what type. I trim them around the edges to keep them in the bed.

Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster adpressus)

I would recommend rejuvenating (starting fresh) the shrubs by cutting them back to 3 or 4 inches above the ground. In several years from now, remove a few of the oldest stems in early spring by cutting them back to ground level. They will put out new shoots to take place of the old ones. These new shoots should then be thinned out if they are quite thick by cutting the weak ones back to the ground, leaving only 4 or 5 of the strongest. Keep doing this each spring as well as removing any dead, diseased or out of place branches or stems. Keep in mind the natural shape of the shrub as you remove any stems or branches. This method of pruning keeps the shrub looking young, healthy and attractive.

For healthy growth, Cotoneasters must have a moist, well-drained soil. They should be planted in full sun or partial shade. They will not do well in heavy shade. Fertilize the shrubs in spring using a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen, such as 5-10-10 or 5-10-5, for examples, using rates recommended by the maunufacturer of the product.

Best of luck with your shrubs.